General Discussion

Hi @n3ro. You have written the correct command. You dont need the incomingMessage if the sensor doesnt expect that. Yes, atleast the nodes in strategic locations. I have some node in the outskirt of my network which is USB powered and not a repeater... no point how i see it. Dont use delay() or block code in any other way if you are using it as a repeater.

Welcome to the MySensors forum @JagWalia ! The getting started guide explains how to get started step by step

Not sure if implemented but pidome was talking about it in a video,https://youtu.be/ROlXtpefjqM

Thank for your informations, I dont need sensor on gateway, so i keep my gateway on Arduino Mini pro, it's more small than Mega. Thank again.

I have now decided to stay at TmrH20 - Basis... that is working fine for me... Thanks to all, trying to help.

Hi @Rolo6442u - welcome! st=fail means the radiotraffic between the node and gateway fails in some way. Sometimes it can reach the gw, but some more skilled in the code need to present you with the details. If you use a nrf radio and you dont use a 4.7uF cap on VCC-GND thats a good advice.

Hi! You should try to make a node with the TCRT5000 IR Barrier Line Track sensor It emits an infrared light and detects the reflection. Its used in the water meter: http://www.mysensors.org/build/pulse_water http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575069610&toolid=10001&campid=5337433187&customid=&icep_item=330924700585&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg

Looks good.. I found some code here for it: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=212749.15 I've not looked any further as to what people may have done with respect to counting people etc..but im sure there is some out there! Not too cheap though.. $80AUD here!

Thanks 4 all the input! I thought about measuring only, but powering the node is a possibility i nearly ignores. Stupid me ☺ This intercom has a regulated 18v DC power source. So i should be fine.

@riataman has a solution here that might be useful.

I don't think Arduino has a standard sleep function. Which function do you mean? The MySensors sleep function does several things, including powering down the radio (if a radion is used). It is quite power efficient.

THanks for the replies... nah, i suspected it wasnt the best choise since all I could find on www wasn pretty much on raspberry client / speaker.

Yes it will work. You can also buy from ebay or Aliexpress. links are available here if you scroll down a little bit.

@gandy-bruno I think that the next release will be 2.0.0.. (Or that is what we are aiming for at the moment)

:+1: signing seems to be fine ;) thanks 4 info

The greatest thing about mysensors is, that it can be combined with almost any home-automation controller. That was the reason for me to have a closer look at it. I will be able to reuse my whole sensor network when I will exchange my controller in future. Riot would be interesting for me if the hardware is cheap and if there would be a nice housing for the babies, and ofcourse if it would be compatible to mysensors.

... and to give the DHT sensor a chance on reading errors to retry and not to wait until next cycle which might be very long: for (unsigned int i = 0; i < DHT_MAX_TRIES; i ++) { float temperature = dht.getTemperature(); if (isnan(temperature)) { Serial.println("Failed reading temperature from DHT"); gw.wait(dht.getMinimumSamplingPeriod()); } else if (temperature != lastTemp) { lastTemp = temperature; if (!metric) { temperature = dht.toFahrenheit(temperature); } gw.send(msgTemp.set(temperature, 1)); Serial.print("T: "); Serial.println(temperature); break; } } Repeat the same for humidity of cause.

Hi, I'm in the same situation as you, designing future house electric system. Routing all the wires to the main cabinet (fuse box) is overkill since you can not wire a two position switch (in the room) and automation (at the panel) in such a way that they can work together, you either wire them in parallel and then the automation can not turn the light off if the room switch is on, or in series in which case the switch can not turn on the light if the automation failed. The only way to use it would be by using Push-Button like switches (doorbell switches) in parallel with the automation, commanding some type of step relays, but in that case the price is way high for wires and relays. My approach is to take both light leads to a larger light switch box in the room, plus some 12V rails, there I have some 12v-5v dc-dc reg, Arduino, relay board, pushbuttons and confirmation leds, plus radio. The system's top priority it turning lights on/off, I'm also considering adding another Arduino in ther for the radio communication, just to be sure the main Arduino does not crash and leave me in the dark. As relays for lights I use the aliexpress cheap relay boards with Songle 220V 10A rated relays, my CFL and LED lights take 200W max, which is under 1A, so the relays should last a long time. I've chosen the 12V low power buss for the cheap and reliable 12v-5V DC-DC step converters. You may go with 24V if you find the right voltage converters for a good price. For the sensors I leave the cable tubing out of the wall a few inches, and after painting I cut to the surface level and glue (silicone) a small box that sticks out with holes on top and bottom for better airflow. Heck I even have some dead end cable tubes in the walls for some DS18b20 in wall temperature probes, useful on exterior walls to prevent dew knowing the inside temperature and humidity. PS. Add some tube to the radiators if you use such things for heating, might be useful for monitoring in/out temps, and correlated to some electric motor ball valves you can have heating zones in your system. Regards, Mircea.

probably not :smirk: