General Discussion

@ahmedadelhosni Its still wery new and the implementation is based on dimmer. This way you can get options from 0 to 100 and also its the reason the selector has separate on/off switch. The problem is the mobile app. It just dont have proper implementation yet to show selector as buttons or dropdown.

You. Will. Get. To. That. Pin. GET THERE YOU AWKWARD PIECE OF COPPER! My eyes often hurt before my brain, my brain just goes into self combustion without warning, no pain or anything, just a huge explosion and a bright ball of flames.

As far as the device receiving the sensor's signals, could they be received by something like this Sensor Shield? or is it better to handle the receive of sensor data by the RPi? Or is this more of a preference kind of situation? I was thinking of using the shield for the heating elements/lighting arduino at minimum, but if its better to have the driving arduino receive the information and then send relevant sensor data to the RPi for the database part...right now I've been thinking of the RPi recieving the sensor data and then talking to the heater/light arduino when changes/adjustments need to be made (the RPi will be the master of the l2C connection between them anyway.) @hayduke Well, the temp/humidity will likely be different enough from the room's temp/humidity to matter to the beings inside the vivarium (I actually have run my apartment's thermostat while I was fixing some heating arrangements to keep him whithin a healthy range...wasn't something I want to do long-term.) I may just run a long wire from the sensor to the nano, either using some single pins of cat5e I have lying around (since it would have a plastic sheathe already) or put it in some heat shrinkwrap. I went looking for electronics coating materials and I'm probably going to grab a couple to see which work best. From what I can tell, as long as I ensure the humidity sensor's input location stays 'clean', it should protect all the rest of the circuitry from the water mist. They'll be physically protected pretty well from direct watering but the floating water droplets that get in the little enclosure...I want to limit the chance of their damage. I will definitely be providing lots of pictures of the build :) I'm always big on credit where credit is due. @epierre As to the lights, I finalized my choice and thus had to make some changes in what I'll be ordering as they're 12vdc; 60W for the daylight circuit and 30W for the moonlight circuit. Thus, FET from what my research turned up and I found a board with 4 channels of IRF540-type power FET. The ones I'm going with are 'full spectrum' 80+ CRI (the 95+CRI ones I was eyeballing weren't flexible with lengths shorter than they advertised which would have run me about 1.5x as much as I'm already shelling out for these lights.) If they don't end up meeting the PAR of the plants, there's room for me to put a light in to supplement them. Just have to make sure they are atleast moderately easy on the eyes- full grow-tier lights would make the vivarium strange and really mess up the snake's senses since reptiles take cues off certain wavelengths as well (which was my driving point of getting a medium/high CRI lighting fixture in the first place.) I've also got a local electrician who will handle a chunk of the mains-wiring and hopefully be able to double check that I have everything properly protected against surges/shorts. I also found a 4 channel phase-control board for the ceramic heaters. Running the numbers to make sure they will work; I'm probably goign to skip the 200W CHE and switch to something like 3 or 4 CHEs of lower wattages so I can do a more even heat. Probably a 150W in a corner with rocks for a basking spot and then two 100W out another 8 and 16 inches out for moderate ambiant heat. Sanity check, 4 of the SI7021's (such as this SI7021 can be wired and controlled by one nano? Or do I need one nano for each sensor?

Seattle (https://www.linkedin.com/in/jcoliz // https://github.com/maniacbug) and Newport Hills Park (https://issuu.com/cascadebicycleclub/docs/courier03_15_r9) are in a really near distance to each other. So it could be his Linkedin account :)

Thanks for the explanation of inclusion mode. Much appreciated. I thought some of the gateway sketches did allocate node id's....but that for some reason the MQTT Client gateway didn't. No big deal....I don't want to use a 3rd party controller, so will just hard code the id's for now.

Yes.

There is several alternatives in aliexpress to the memory @Anticimex posted above, SPI interface, same pin distribution, only change the memory capacity and voltage input. (and good prices)

Hi @SandeshHs94, welcome to MySensors :-) No changes are required for most examples No changes to the gateway is required when adding more sensors (unless you use signing with white listing). The gateway only forwards data to your controller, it does not care about what sensors it forwards data for. Yes, but only if you are running the development branch The API documentation is available here: http://www.mysensors.org/download/sensor_api_15

Thank you.

@mfalkvidd said: How far did you get and what were the results? It is a bit hard to help you without knowing that. I try at evening, after work.

@Cliff-Karlsson I'm not too sure you will get that reaction time from anything but the Wemo app itself, or the mechanical switch on the Wemo. The problem I found out with the Wemo is, it will randomize what port it connects to in a certain range. I can't remember the exact range (maybe 49152-49156?), but I think it's stated in the .sh script. Therefore, the script or whatever program that is doing the switching needs to first find the proper IP/Port, then actually run the command. The one option you may have is setting a static IP to each Wemo switch, then sending it more direct. To be all honest, this is why I switched from Wemo over to MySensors and the Relay sketch. Works much better than the Wemo's do, and haven't had a chance to buy and test any Zigbee wall switches yet.

Hello, As mentioned on the MySensors page, NSS, MOSI and SCK are not 5v tolerant so you need to connect them to a level converter. Don't connect MISO to the level converter, it's not necessary and not working for me ! Hope it helps ! David.

DHT - Yes, Using 2xAA to VCC will also work untill it reaches somewhere around 2.6-2.8V where the arduino will stop working. I use booster and have nodes almost hitting a year now, still running and reporting good health.

@tbowmo I'm using a Harmony Companion, it's only the hub and a simple remote. Before I used a Harmony One and for me it's no problem not having a display anymore. By default I can setup 3 different activities (can be too limited for some) and I integrated the Harmony Hub in a Vera Edge. The Edge can be triggered on activities which you activate. No it does not yet do what you demand ,but for me the Hub is a great addition to HA.

@dark-nico Now I get your nick :clap:

Yes this is a good explanation why not to pursue exchange in the forum.

@Erik-Forsberg I think one should be a bit careful about making too many special rules for different cases, between device and controller. I think there should be set ways of communicating between the controller and device. There should also be ways for the user to make rules to create the automations, but this should not change the set ways for communication. In this case, when we need an initial value from the user, which should be automated somehow, I think the user should be able to make rules, and somehow be able to set an initial state, by controller API or other means. But I think that should be detached from the specific device - controller communication. You can have a look at my handle_req branch here: https://github.com/MartinHjelmare/pymysensors/tree/handle_req I would say your implementation looks fine, although I have some comments. We can continue at github.

@TheoL said: offtopic: Conrad is vast blij met jou Tabs open hebben staan is een, werkelijk bestellen iets anders :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

@candylion I believe so, old-fashioned style LED vintage bulbs with conventional exposed filament look for decorative lighting. You can utilize "vintage style" bulbs for as long as the light fixture and wattage match. I am acutally using one of my vintage bulbs (which I bought from Codale) in our living like an accent light in the corner of the room.