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  1. Home
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  3. What did you build today (Pictures) ?

What did you build today (Pictures) ?

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  • dbemowskD Offline
    dbemowskD Offline
    dbemowsk
    wrote on last edited by dbemowsk
    #497

    For anyone interested, here is an OpenSCAD rendering of the MySensors logo:
    0_1523772425973_bb57755a-8866-4200-9688-7028e69727e9-image.png

    I tried posting the OpenScad code for this, but it is too long to add to a normal post. So here is a link to the OpenSCAD file.
    MySensors_logo.scad

    Special thanks to @hek for giving me the .svg file that allowed me to create this. I would be curious to see peoples uses for this.

    Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
    Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

    1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • dbemowskD dbemowsk

      Working on setting up a new work bench in my back room in my basement where my HA equipment rack is. I wanted to build a case for my serial nRF24L01-PA-LNA gateway built on a rev8 Easy Newbie board. I just had the board sitting on a shelf on my rack, and now I want to mount it on my MDF board with all of my other equipment. Here is the design that I came up with for the case.
      0_1523766811586_6c9ecee9-2040-43ef-a6ee-29fe5c21f0e1-image.png

      This is the inside bottom of the case:
      0_1523768012922_fe041e3f-d5a2-4b98-a29d-39c4d6d38e75-image.png

      And here is inside the top of the case:
      0_1523768171460_d2faabd3-4762-4ca4-a161-b42d2a5cf5e9-image.png

      It has a spot for 3 - 5mm LEDs for the transmit, receive and error lights. There is a hole on the right side of the case for the PA-LNA antenna connector. The oval hole on the lower right side of the case is for the DC in jack. I had one of these in my parts bin:
      0_1523767172381_9e6f475c-0442-4e9d-9434-ddfd85377ea4-image.png
      The hole on the bottom right is for the FTDI adapter connection. I am using one of these adapters that has a mini-USB connector:
      0_1523767301286_5a03d8e4-74c9-417a-b1dc-8cf143d575fc-image.png

      I have the case running on the printer now. I will post pics when it is done.

      dbemowskD Offline
      dbemowskD Offline
      dbemowsk
      wrote on last edited by
      #498

      So I tried printing the cover for this with my original design using Cura as my slicer, and I couldn't get the logo to print right, plus the text under the LEDs was a bit too small. I then modified the design a bit and made the logo and text a bit bigger. I again tried printing it using Cura, but the logo still was missing some lines in the body. I then thought that part of the problem was the slicer I was using, so I tried it using Slic3r and I have to say, the logo came out MUCH better.
      0_1524009391075_716860d0-bf73-441c-bc16-85e91ce5e852-image.png

      I ended up losing the Y in "My" Sensors and the ending "t" in "Transmit", but I am going to use the case the way I currently have it. Now I just have to assemble the new gateway. I am planning on making a whole new gateway and trying out the new 2.2.0 library. Hopefully my older 2.0.0 nodes will not have any issues with it, but that is why I plan on keeping my pro mini from my 2.0.0 gateway so I can revert back to that if I have to.

      Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
      Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

      1 Reply Last reply
      1
      • D Offline
        D Offline
        dakipro
        wrote on last edited by
        #499

        Built case for soldering tools, to easily move them out of the way.

        0_1525033392218_Soldering tools holder 2 - IMG_2292_1024.jpg

        0_1525033398349_Soldering tools holder 1 - IMG_2260_1024.jpg

        Not really, bought it on banggood and asked wife to assemble it (she likes those type of projects, especially if the office might look a tiny bit cleaner) https://www.banggood.com/DIY-Self-assemble-RC-Model-Tools-Case-Screwdriver-Box-Gripper-Package-Plier-Stand-Retro-Style-p-1257252.html?cur_warehouse=CN

        Laser cut plywood(or something), looks quite nice I think. I will order few more when they appear in stock.

        C: OpenHAB2 with node-red on linux laptop
        GW: Arduino Nano - W5100 Ethernet, Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz mqtt
        GW: Arduino Mega, RFLink 433Mhz

        1 Reply Last reply
        6
        • GertSandersG Offline
          GertSandersG Offline
          GertSanders
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #500

          So here is my contribution to this tread: a differential drive "brain". A work in progress:

          0_1525210230419_IMG_9439.jpg

          NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
          3
          • dbemowskD Offline
            dbemowskD Offline
            dbemowsk
            wrote on last edited by
            #501

            Finally finished my 2.2.0 gateway and have it mounted in the new enclosure. It appears to be talking to my 2.0.0 sensors just fine.!
            0_1525234938553_567ab940-cceb-4167-8ed1-bb8038ab854a-image.png

            Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
            Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

            dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
            6
            • sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #502

              0_1525620856415_1525620846227981744202.jpg

              Another motion and led strip node.

              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84
                Hardware Contributor
                wrote on last edited by
                #503

                0_1525710585979_1525710576865460597546.jpg

                ...and deployed.

                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                hekH nagelcN 2 Replies Last reply
                3
                • sundberg84S sundberg84

                  0_1525710585979_1525710576865460597546.jpg

                  ...and deployed.

                  hekH Offline
                  hekH Offline
                  hek
                  Admin
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #504

                  @sundberg84

                  Nice, maybe add a diffuser? I've found that greaseproof paper (smörpapper in Swedish) works pretty well.

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  3
                  • GertSandersG GertSanders

                    So here is my contribution to this tread: a differential drive "brain". A work in progress:

                    0_1525210230419_IMG_9439.jpg

                    NeverDieN Offline
                    NeverDieN Offline
                    NeverDie
                    Hero Member
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #505

                    @gertsanders what is that?

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • sundberg84S sundberg84

                      0_1525710585979_1525710576865460597546.jpg

                      ...and deployed.

                      nagelcN Offline
                      nagelcN Offline
                      nagelc
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #506

                      @sundberg84 Nice. I was wondering if I had an use for these. Now I want them everywhere!

                      sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • nagelcN nagelc

                        @sundberg84 Nice. I was wondering if I had an use for these. Now I want them everywhere!

                        sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84
                        Hardware Contributor
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #507

                        @nagelc - easy to hide, looks good and awsome as night-lights for the kids. Its also a bit woav factor connecting them to a motion detector so they lights up when someone walks by.

                        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • bjacobseB Offline
                          bjacobseB Offline
                          bjacobse
                          wrote on last edited by bjacobse
                          #508

                          Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
                          And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501
                          0_1525805331216_IMG_20180429_132218.jpg
                          0_1525805362758_IMG_20180429_133121.jpg
                          0_1525805385308_IMG_20180429_134443.jpg
                          0_1525805405692_IMG_20180429_135200.jpg

                          3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
                          https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456

                          dbemowskD gohanG 2 Replies Last reply
                          5
                          • bjacobseB bjacobse

                            Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
                            And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501
                            0_1525805331216_IMG_20180429_132218.jpg
                            0_1525805362758_IMG_20180429_133121.jpg
                            0_1525805385308_IMG_20180429_134443.jpg
                            0_1525805405692_IMG_20180429_135200.jpg

                            3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
                            https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456

                            dbemowskD Offline
                            dbemowskD Offline
                            dbemowsk
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #509

                            @bjacobse Nice project. I like the 3D printed wall box. have you given any thought of having separate control of the lights and extraction fan? The reason I ask is that it may be beneficial to use the temp/humidity sensor to determine when the fan runs or gets shut off based on room humidity. This would be useful to reduce the chance of mold brought on by excess humidity.

                            Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                            Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                            bjacobseB 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • bjacobseB bjacobse

                              Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
                              And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501
                              0_1525805331216_IMG_20180429_132218.jpg
                              0_1525805362758_IMG_20180429_133121.jpg
                              0_1525805385308_IMG_20180429_134443.jpg
                              0_1525805405692_IMG_20180429_135200.jpg

                              3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
                              https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456

                              gohanG Offline
                              gohanG Offline
                              gohan
                              Mod
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #510

                              @bjacobse don't you get false pir detections with the wemos that close to the pir sensor?

                              bjacobseB 1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                                @bjacobse Nice project. I like the 3D printed wall box. have you given any thought of having separate control of the lights and extraction fan? The reason I ask is that it may be beneficial to use the temp/humidity sensor to determine when the fan runs or gets shut off based on room humidity. This would be useful to reduce the chance of mold brought on by excess humidity.

                                bjacobseB Offline
                                bjacobseB Offline
                                bjacobse
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #511

                                @dbemowsk Thank you
                                For now as it's in early stage, I use the left switch to switch on (when I goto shower)on manually the fan, mirror heat, fan, and light and nightlight for 10min.
                                the right switch is only to start the fan for 5 min
                                I have not yet added humidity to start extraction fan automatically, but yes I will add this to the ESPEASY, rules

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • gohanG gohan

                                  @bjacobse don't you get false pir detections with the wemos that close to the pir sensor?

                                  bjacobseB Offline
                                  bjacobseB Offline
                                  bjacobse
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #512

                                  @gohan
                                  No, I have a fairly large electrolyte cap on power supply on the controller PCB, to stabilize the PIR/Wemod/si7021 power source.

                                  Actually when the bathroom door is open, and someone walk by the bathroom, the PIR will detect this and switch ON the light. I could consider to update 3D print to add a "wall" to block PIR.
                                  The idea is that this PIR potentially can be used to connect to burglaralarm (but again I need to verify that I dont get false PIR reading due to sunlight)

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • gohanG Offline
                                    gohanG Offline
                                    gohan
                                    Mod
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #513

                                    I was asking because quite some people had issues with the PIR being too close to the antenna as the antenna during transmission was inducing some noise that triggered the sensor so they needed to move them apart to solve the issue

                                    bjacobseB 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • E Offline
                                      E Offline
                                      executivul
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #514

                                      Depending on the number of simultaneously active relays and the weemos tx power requirements make sure you don't overheat the HLK module, fire hazzard.
                                      My 8 relay board draws a whooping 500ma @5V when all of them are active.

                                      bjacobseB 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • gohanG gohan

                                        I was asking because quite some people had issues with the PIR being too close to the antenna as the antenna during transmission was inducing some noise that triggered the sensor so they needed to move them apart to solve the issue

                                        bjacobseB Offline
                                        bjacobseB Offline
                                        bjacobse
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #515

                                        @gohan thanks I didn't think of the RF transmission from Wemos should impact PIR sensor, I only have thought of the power ripple. how far distance should affect PIR? I think mine is approx 2 cm apart

                                        mfalkviddM 1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • E executivul

                                          Depending on the number of simultaneously active relays and the weemos tx power requirements make sure you don't overheat the HLK module, fire hazzard.
                                          My 8 relay board draws a whooping 500ma @5V when all of them are active.

                                          bjacobseB Offline
                                          bjacobseB Offline
                                          bjacobse
                                          wrote on last edited by bjacobse
                                          #516

                                          @executivul
                                          Good point, But I have looked at the power/current budget.
                                          I have 4 pcs relay, JQC-3FF 5V DC, spec: https://www.futurlec.com/Relays/JQC-3FF-05.shtml uses 0,36W each x 4 pcs = total 1,44W.
                                          Usage of Wemos D1 Mini Pro is unknown, at least there is no spec...https://wiki.wemos.cc/products:d1:d1_mini_pro#documentation let says it uses 1 W
                                          HLK01 is rated to provide 3W
                                          Should be all ok

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