Posts made by ahhk

I thougt uploading via ISP-programmer deletes the bootloader?

but you can run on a lower Vmin value....
The other thread doesnt help - there was no solution for the serial-problem at 1mhz...
Greetings

Hi,

this is **very **interesenting for me. could you write a small tutorial when you solved it? i failed until today to use arduino ide with 328p@4mhz(or lower) with arduino bootloader. i read something about compiling a new bootloader - but this is too much for me to go and i didnt find a compiled bootloader for 1 or 4mhz to download

greetings

andreas

Hi,

why dont you design your own pcbs? Its quite easy...
Greetings

Andreas

Maybe its better to open a new thread for this question?

read the description:

"but it's always best to avoid long-term (over 1 hour at a time) submersion, if you need something that can be submerged for over an hour you may want to find a different sensor. "

check the voice-recognition in Openhab for example. it is cheaper and a better solution then realizing this in hardware...

ok, great Lets how they look ready....

Eagle is much easier than it looks. I started a few ago with my first pcb. After looking one or two tutorials, i got my first successful schema. Just give it a try. One evening and a beer or glass of wine is enough to learn eagle.

Update: PCBs are shipped via express...

Vcc ripple?
Cap in parallel to the ldr?

Hi,

or use a small bulb instead neon...should also work. But a cap in parallel is always a good idea for this.

I am not sure if i understand you. But if you want to upload the mqtt-gateway sketch, this is the ip, the mqtt-gateway will use. Same for MAC.

But, try the mqtt-client-gateway instead. works perfect and you can connect to a full featured mqtt-host in your network (like mosquitto).
greetings

Andreas

also check HTU21D....

i think it would be better to open a new thread for this, instead to discuss two topics in one thread....the 2xaa battery sensor is very interesting

if you have a mailbox with 2 hatches, install 2 magnet switches.

one sets the "mail is waiting"-signal (postman put mail in box) and if you open the mailbox to take out the mail, the second sensor resets the state. Really comfortable

very NICE

@robosensor: What about power consumption, max/min voltage and measuring time?

Greetings

Andreas

Hi,

something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Signalleuchten-mit-Lampe-Max-230-V-Rot-transparent-RAFI-Inhalt-1-St-/400562275133?hash=item5d435f433d

On the arduino-side, just use an LDR (http://www.ebay.com/itm/20PCS-Photoresistor-LDR-CDS-5mm-Light-Dependent-Resistor-Sensor-GL5516-Arduino-/311050784623?hash=item486c124f6f)

The LDR triggers an interrupt and the arduino wakes up to send "on" or "off" signal

Greetings

Andreas

Also take a look at HTU21D....

PCBs are ordered (shenzen2u)....i am very curious about it

Hi,

sry guys, i withdraw my question. I just found a simple and unbelievable easy solution: 230v small signal lamp + LDR.

It could not be cheaper and easier.....LOL

Thx for your proposals!
Greetings

Andreas

Hi all,

i hope you have an idea. The situation: I have a water-bearing fireplace which is integrated into the heating system of my house. There is a temperature-sensor, which switches at 70°C so that the heatingpump gets 230V and starts

My challenge is now, to detect when the sensor closes and opens (pump on / off) without cutting the direct connection (the direct wire) between 230V, Sensor and Pump (legal requirement).

My first thought was to install a relay in parallel to the pump. But this draws 1W - a bit too much for me.

My question is now: How can i easily detect, when the pump is on and off? Any Ideas?

Protecting your "home" starts first at the boundary. An alarm-system is the absolutly last option - the bad guy is already "in da house" then. Think about

• fences
• hedges
• lockable windows (dont let the keys in the locks)
• good neighborhood
• motion-sensors and bright lights...
• sticker on the windows (e.g. "house is protected")
• a dog (?), too.
• dont post on FB that you are on holiday

If you do a lot of those things, the internal alarm system can be very simple: Just put some movable motion-sensors in the corridor and important rooms in the ground floor and connect them to a very loud siren outside, to the smoke-detectors inside and to all the lights, rolling shutter you have....just let the house go crazy :D. There is really no need for a "professional" alarm-system for a private (single-family) house in my opinion.
greetings

Andreas

Hi,

i can upload via RX/TX with arduino IDE with the 8mhz/internal bootloader. but if i flash the 1mhz bootloader from the link above (atmega328_1a.hex), i cannot upload the same way...

TX/RX is connected correctly. I can upload a sketch via "Upload with programmer" and receive and transmit characters with 9600baud. tested with the example-sketch "SerialEvent".

IT is a brand new 328P - not locked...

boards.txt shows

##############################################################

apm96.name=APM Optiboot internal 1MHz noBOD 9600baud

apm96.upload.tool=avrdude
apm96.upload.protocol=arduino
apm96.upload.maximum_size=32256
apm96.upload.speed=9600
apm96.bootloader.tool=avrdude
apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde
apm96.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07
apm96.bootloader.path=optiboot_v50
apm96.bootloader.file=atmega328_1a.hex
apm96.bootloader.unlock_bits=0x3F
apm96.bootloader.lock_bits=0x2F
apm96.build.mcu=atmega328p
apm96.build.f_cpu=1000000L
apm96.build.core=arduino
apm96.build.variant=standard

##############################################################

i didnt try the 4800baud bootloader until now....i will do now...

Hi,

great job! I think i will use your board to for small window -sensors.
But one question: i cannot upload sketches via arduino-ide when the 1mhz bootloader is flashed. i checked the wires and everything else and i tested a 8mhz/internal bootloader - works fine. but the 1mhz-bootloader just does not accept uploads?

HI Gert,

thx for your great feedback.
Some ideas: I can draw a line on the pcb where to cut the pcb for the antenna (maybe i draw holes too).
The lines at the holes are not a problem, becaus i already planned to use plastic screws.
I printed the pcb on a piece of paper and placed all components on it. Look cool and everything fits without problems.

Some last questions before i place an order:

• What do you think about the sizes of the capacitors? To small, to big?
• Do you know 3mm DUO-LEDs which are low current (2-3mA)?
• Where are you from?
  Greetings

Andreas

Hi,

sure i will share the brd-file and schemativ. No problem. But let me first build one working sensor. I think i will order the pcbs this weekend, because this looks good too =>

Hi,

3d-view is really nice. I dont know why, but my gerber files dont work. Board is BIIIIIIIGGG and without holes

I asked in the hardware-forum, if there are any errors in my design. (http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2042/errors-in-pcb-design)

I must finish this and order my boards now Otherwise i will never find an end....

Hi,

this is my first PCB and my first project with EAGLE. Are there any errors in my schema and my board? Boardsize is 30x50mm...

It's a simple NO-SMD Board which allows to connect a maximum of 5 sensors. Possible sensors are DS18B20, REED-Contacts, PIR or other "normal" analog" or digital sensors (LDR,...)

The resistors in Ports S1-5 are optional (no values). if not needed i just solder a wire or leave it open. S5 is a dual-use port => I2C or other sensor. The sensors can be soldered to the pads or via "jumper-plugs"

Debug is mainly for serial output or uploading a sketch with arduino bootloader.

The stepup-regulator is on the bottom side - a small bob can be soldered here (or left open).

What do you tink about C1 - C3?
C1 is for a good "reset signal" for sketch uploading (auto reset does not work without)
C2 is for stabilizing the monitoring circuit/voltage (R6 & R7)
C3 is for general voltage stabilization...

The nightly meditation must end and i want to order my first PCBs now

To reach <50uA is the target. I dont need to get nA.
The difference between 100uA and 50uA is the change intervall of the batteries. every year or nearly every 2 years
I will take a look at "Sketch J"....sound interesting...

Hi Gert,

thx for the cnc-flowers

Sensors

I thougt about the different nodes i will have later. The biggest node will have 5x DS18B20 - so i really dont need more than 5 "ports" to connect sensors. I changed them to the analog-pins of the arduino, because i can use them as digital and analog ports too...

Temp4 and Temp5 can be used as I2C ("horizontal") OR as Temp4 and Temp5 for DS18B20 ("vertical"). See top left corner of the board. I think it is very flexbile to not solder the resistors (disconnect VCC) or to solder a wire instead of the resistor (vcc to pad). In this way i can connect PIRs, DS18B20, Analog-sensors and so on....i just solder the parts i need for the sensors...

Only thing: I cannot use I2C AND Temp4 / Temp5 at the same time, because A4 and A5 are SCL and SDA too....
I hope you understand what i mean and try to reach...

Btw: Jumper-pins are not a must, if i want, i connect the sensors via wire to the pads, or solder them onto the pads directly....

Greetings

Andreas

Next variant. Less flexible, but flexible enough. Boardsize now 50x30mm
It's only one pcb now and you can connect

• 5x sensors (digital or analog)
• 1x I2C and 3x sensors (digital or analog)

Step-up can be soldered to the bottom.

What do you think?

@NeverDie said:

@ahhk said:

This is my Case-Prototype - very flexible and easy to manufacture:

Why do you say it's "easy" to manufacture?

I put a wooden 8mm-plate on my cnc and mill the parts Very cheap and fast made....

@GERT: I have a cnc at home. i built it several years ago Take a look if u want: http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showthread.php/304809-CNC-FRÄSMASCHINE-OPEN-SOURCE-PROJEKT/page11

Power
I have only 2 possible variants in mind:

• Battery with or without step up (plugin boost converter)
• USB-Powered

For the last one i wanted to use these pcbs - glued into the case or plugged instead of the step-up module:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/301652467812?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Or i install a small connector into the case and solder 2 wires to the board. Something like this http://www.ebay.de/itm/2-Pair-DC-Power-Female-Male-Connector-Cable-Pigtail-Plug-Wire-CCTV-camera-White-/252099946337?hash=item3ab253e761

Everything should stay "easy&simple" and i think, once installed, the sensor will "hang around" for a year or longer....

Sensors
I checked 3 properties to find the correct sensor:

• minimum allowed voltage
• time for a measurement
• price

So, the htu21d was the winner for me - works great and fast after a little optimization of the arduino-library for this (replaced delay with gw.sleep)...

what can i save without the watchdog?
gw.sleep doesnt work without watchdog, i think? what can be a workaround?

i found a blog, where someone tested the powersavings by setting the pins to outputmode. This is <1uA. not a big deal...

My Multimeter is a Peaktech 3410. Manual says: "0,1 µA; +/- 1,5 %".

BOD disabled, 8mhz internal, only HTU21D and NRF are connected...

I still dont understand, why my china-module takes 243uA with same configuration...
I am just replacing the step-up module on the breadboard.

440uA and 98uA is far too much! 59uA is quite good but not very good.
Sleep current is in my config the biggest part, which sucks most of the juice out of the batteries.

Maybe this is a quality problem of the china-modules?

I tested my 3 modules with the same node - i just replaced the step-up and measured the current. So my results are based on the same sketch, hardware and lib....

i will make my own cases for my 25x50 boards with 2xAA....see => http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1901/my-own-board-50mm-x-24mm/18

Same china-modules. They are crap compared to the sparkfun module......

Hi,

i tested 3 step-up-boards in the same configuration /sensor:

https://www.pololu.com/product/2114/specs
Sleep-current: 103uA

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10967
Sleep-current: 28uA

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Elevador-Tension-DC-D-Step-Up-Boost-0-8-3-3-V-a-3-3-V-Arduino-3-3-V-ESP-8266-/221886656856?hash=item33a979b158
Sleep-current:243uA

Isn't this the china-module, which normally should be "quite good" (linked at mysensors...)?

Are there any other step up modules as good as the sparkfun NCP1402-Module? Or better and cheaper china-modules?

Greetings

Incredible many pinouts and holes! Wow! Are you sure you need them all? Looks much more complicated then my design. But looks cool, too

This is my Case-Prototype - very flexible and easy to manufacture:

The top is adapted to every node-type. E.g. in the picture is the top for the humidity and temperature sensor. Then i plan to create a top for a PIR-Sensor, Acoustic-Sensor and a case for external Sensors and Powersupply, too.
Maybe i engrave the type of the sensor into the top for a cool looking.

Then i glue it together or use small magnets. Case is still in "alpha"-status - work in progress. If i need it higher, i just add a second, third (...) bottom part. Every part is made of 8mm wood. If i want another design, i can make a "cover" for the top or use other materials for this (Aluminium, POM,different wood, acryl...) Connections from the side are easy to realise, too. Just drill a hole after building or mill it before putting it together.
If i could make a 3D-Modell from my PCB (and know how to do this with eagle), i could make a really nice picture with case, pcb and batteries...

Size is approx 60x40mm.

Greetings

Andreas

Hi,

thx for the feedback. Capa is changed to 100nF. It also works on my breadboard with 22pF

Battery-Monitoring
The link to measure the vcc internally is great! Wow! Does this solution block any pins?
But i stay with my double-solution - it is not too big on the pcb.

Crystal
Yes, i progged the fuses to run at 8Mhz-internal. Runs great and saves parts on the pcb and makes it cheaper

i am not sure, i understand your board. What are all the connectors for? Where is the ATMEGA? Size?

Maybe we can join our board-ideas and design one-board together?

I am missing mounting holes on your pcb...

Case
I willl make my own case - a wooden case milled with my CNC...
8mm Multiplex (or plywood)...looks quite good i think

Here the schematics with boards..
Baseboard

Topboard

Hi Gert,

thx for your feedback. Lets make a small structure to discuss the things:

Battery-monitoring
I plan to you use the AREF as 3.3v Reference powered by the step-up-module. I think most of my sensors will have a step up. So this should be quite easy and accurate. In this case i solder a wire instead of R1 and "unsolder" R2....
OR (if i really want) i can use the voltage divider on A0 instead (like mysensors.org says). I think with this schematics i have both possibilities... How does it work without resistors and internal vref (1.1v)? I only saw the version with 2 resistors on the mysensors page.
By the way: I tested 3 step-up-modules:

Pololu with NCP1402
Sparkfun with NCP1402
"China-Module"

The China-Module is crap (+-240uA).
Pololu draws +-100uA in sleep mode
The Sparkfunboard only draws +-30uA in Sleep mode. I will go for that.

Capacitors:
There is a capacitor between VCC and GND. The capa between AVCC and GND is missing, you're right. Thx.
I want to use AREF, so i cannot pull it to ground. Or what did you mean? Or am i missunderstanding something? I thougt AVCC is the supply voltage for the "REF"-function. And AREF is the reference-voltage....

Programming
In an updated version from last night, i moved the debugport to the topboard. I can upload new sketches via RX/TX...
Do you know if it is possible to use the ISP when the NRF24l01+ is still connected to these pins?

LED
I dont want to have a regular LED-blink (power consumption). It shall only blink when working(transmitting).
Green => All OK: Measures are ok, packet was sent
RED => ERROR: Measurement fails or packet could not be sent...
A DUOled would save some space, but no pins.

Sensors
I think i will have a max of 5 Sensors connected on one board , so there is no need to save pins whereever i can.
The I2C port is like the sparkfun "standard" I have a lot of HTU21D-BOBs laying around. They work like a charm

After i gave my child something to eat, i update and upload the schematics...give me some time

My development continued. I have now a "Baseboard" and a "Topboard". First i created different topboards for different sensors. But at last i made a "general" Topboard. Here i can connect all the sensors i need. It has

• 5x Digital-Connectors prepared for DS18B20 (GND, SIG & VCC), but can be used for other digital in-outputs. Just do not solder the resistor
• 3x Analog-Connectors for connecting analog-devices. (can also be used as digital pins)
• Place for an Step-Up-Module. If the sensor is powered directly with 2xAA-battery just put a jumper to connect BAT & VCC.
• I2C -Connector with VCC and GND
• Batterymonitor-Pin for Baseboard (A0)

This is the Topboard:
!

The Baseboard has:

• NO smd-parts
• Debug-port (TX &GND)
• Mysensor-Voltage-Monitor (2 resistors) onboard. Solder it or not if not needed
• 2x LEDs (Red & green) = Error & OK
• 4x 3.2mm holes for mounting

This is the Baseboard:
!

Both boards are 25x50mm...
Now i have to find out how to print them in 1:1 (original size) for testing.

Hi,

thats a LOT of text - wow. but very interesting (didnt read everything until now).
Is there a topic or discussion ongoing on this?

Maybe it can be redone with "mysensors 2.0" (in parallel to 1.5)..
I will make a deep-dive into the source code now. Its too interesting and i like this kind of coding

At last: Sry that i opened another topic for this question. looks like i didnt use the right words in the search
Greetings

Hi, i am a new but very excited user of the mysensors-library and i am not a native english-speaker. I hope you understand what i am trying to ask and tell.
There is one thing, i dont understand why it was made this way:

There are a lot of sensor-types, but all of them only consist of only some different datatypes: bool, float, integer (...) Wouldnt it be easier to create a general "sensor-type" instead of creating a lot of different sensors?

My idea is to make something like a "constructor" for a sensor i want to use. In this constructor i define the datatype, the name, and additional (standardized) parameters like:

• arm- / disarmable
• min / max-value
• other "read" and writeable values...

In this way i can "build" my sensor-type as i need it. For example i can create a sensor, which reports batterylevel as integer or as float - or just as boolean (batt-ok-value). I can define a "setable" min-value (or max) and so on... The battlevel-feature included today only allows percent-values. This is a bit a limitation, i think...

Greetings

Andreas

Would you share your python script? Does the script send received messages from the MQTT to the sensors, too?

Greetings

Andreas

I think its the best thing, to move the line between "?" and "db" to "Openhab" and "db"...
One central entrance-point for all values.

I believe, that it does not exist something you mean with your "?"...it makes the system unnecessary complicated.

Mysensors => MQTT-Clientgateway => MQTT-host (Mosquitto) => Openhab runs great in my house...

Hi,

i decided for me, thats it is the easyiest way for me to update the "offset" in the controller (openhab) manually (maybe by entering the value on the website), than updating the sensors eeprom. The pulses i lost during controller-offline-times is so small - not a problem for me. Its is more than enough for me to update the offset 2 or 3 times per year...
When you want to store the value in the sensor, than you have other topics to solve:

• how often is the value stored in eeprom? after every pulse? after every 100 pulses? (value will be wrong if the sensor resets before the last value is stored)
• how to calculate the daily /hourly/weekly/monthly values?
• what about visualisation (graphs)?
• when only pulses are transmitted, the sensor needs to be "read-only" only. no need to update internal gas-total-value OTA...

So (for me!) storing the pulses in a RRD (type counter) is still the easyist thing and my openhab is running very stable on my raspberry. I dont change this "productive" system and develop new features on separate system. Downtimes are at minimum - just perfect for my situation....

I thought a lot about measuring gas. A lot of people just transmit the impulses and the controller (Openhab,...) calculate the usage on a daily/hourly/monthly basis. I think it is not a good idea to store the gas counter or calculate the volume in the sensor. It's easier to add (and from time to time to correct) this as an "offset"-value in the controller. In short words:

• Sensor only send one "ping" for each impuls of the gasmeter
• The controller summates the pings based on your wishes and calculates the volumes / averages (...). perhaps in a RRD..
• The total gasmeter status is the sum of the point before plus an "offset"...

Greetings

Andreas

Hi,

can this run on ESP8266 (as wifi-mqttclient-gateway), too?
Greetings

Andreas

Hi,

this is interesting. What about the HIGH-Levels in this scenario in genereal? DHT is powered at 3.3V and ATMEGA is powered by batterie (e.g. 2.8V?). Isn this a problem when the high levels are different? DHT high is higher then atmega-high-level (3.3V => e.g. 2.8V).
If not it could be a very nice solution to power only the sensors via a step-up-regulator - connected to arduino pin (or via transistor)
Greetings

Andreas

Looks interesting in TO92 standard...just saw the smd-version of it.

And what would be a good stepup-converter?

here: http://www.diymodules.org/eagle-libraries?type=usr

Hi,

thanks for your feedback guys :). Looks like i am on the right way. Only some things before breakfast (hope my wife doesnt see me at the notebook instead of making breakfast) I will answer the other tipps and questions later from work

• IRQ-PIN: Is not needed for batterypowered devices, because the radio cannot wake up the IC.
• Cap C3: Plan was to solder it horicontal - i just didnt find the part in eagle. Both, atmega and nrf, will be mounted into sockets. So there should be enough space under the NRF module for a 4mm Cap. But maybe your are right and its easier to solder the cap directly onto every NRF-module...
• Case: I have no 3D-Printer, only CNC. So i have an Idea for a case - incl. Batteryholder. But i will show this later. Its only in my mind, not in my CAD-Programm actually
• Mounting holes: is a "ToDo"

Greetings
Andreas

Hi,

i searched a lot and read a lot about step-up and step-down converters in the last days, but i didnt find a really "good one" - and already soldered on pcb. Soldering is in general not a problem for me, except smd (i hate smd soldering). Has anyone a hint for a good booster (2xAA => 3.3V) or a step-down-regulator (3xAA => 3.3V) ?

Greetings

Andreas

Hi,

i thougt a long time about placing such a booster on the pcb. Its quite difficult to find a good(!) booster. Lots of the cheaper booster draw a lot of current (quiescent current) - like the one behind your link. I tested only 2 until today.

This one: http://www.exp-tech.de/pololu-3-3v-step-up-spannungsregler-u1v10f3?gclid=CPmll6rH0ccCFRI6Gwod884Lxg
and this one: http://www.exp-tech.de/sparkfun-ncp1402-3-3v-step-up-breakout-prt-10967?gclid=CPCv55_H0ccCFUu6GwodKDUHwA

Current consumption differs approx 30uA between those 2 (red 70uA, green 100uA in sleepmode with sensors etc)...
Did you check current-consumption of your booster?

Actually i am changing the board size to 50mmx24mm - its a lot cheaper to order from fusionpcb (seeedstudio)...
Thats a lot.
Greetings

[▲QUICK EDIT]
Something like this? Booster soldered vertical....In this way you must select with the solder jumper how to power the board (battery direct or via booster)...

Hi all,

i was never happy with the arduino pro mini and i dont like smd (too small for me). I was inspired by another design and so i decided to create my own board with "normal" components. i am not sure if everything is right, because this is my first selfmade pcb-design an my first project with eagle. So, i hope you can take a look at it and tell me, if something is wrong or what i can improve.

This is the design:

And this is the board.

Some background-info: I want to design an own board for every type of sensor i need. In detail:

• 4x DS18B20 - powered with 3.3v-boost converter( seperate pcb)
• I2C connector for LCD or Temp-Sensor (HTU21D)
• Analog-Inputs for Moisture-Sensors
• PIR-Board

Here is only I2C-board. The other boards are nearly "identical" except pinouts...

Every board has the same basic-features:

• 2 LEDS (OK & Error)
• Debug-Port (TX & GND)
• Pinouts at same pcb-side (top)
  -Voltage Monitor included with solder jumper to chose input voltage. Reason: If the board is powered vi 3.3v booster, i need to monitor the raw-battery-voltage.

The board is designed with eagle and seeedstudio design-rule. So i will order them when i have finished the design....

What do you think about this?

Greetings

Andreas

Hi,

sending a "heartbeat" or other value regularly is not a problem. The processing of this on gateway/controller-side is missing. I hoped to find a feature like:

• Node presents sensor to controller/gateway WITH time-intervall-value
• The controller /gateway sends alert-message if node doesnt send for >presented time-intervall-value...
  (-perhaps a manual "offline-switch"-function to disable alarm/node/sensor)

This would be really great...does anybody know if something like this is on the roadmap for mysensors?

I will take a look into scripting (mqtt+python?) to realise my alert-function...
Greetings

Andreas

Hi,

i am evaluating mysensors and it's quite interesting and easy to understand! Just, what i was looking for!:) But i am missing a feature, which enables the gateway/controller to detect node-failures. At the moment i have a mqtt-client-gateway running very nicely. But i dont know how to configure /implement a feature, that i get a mail/info/note (red LED blink) when a node dies, goes "offline" or does not send sensor-values any more.
In mqtt this is called LWT (last will, testament). Is there something comparable in mysensors?
Any ideas howto get this?

Sry for my english, i am native german

greetings

Andreas

Hi,

any news? Is there a working port of mysensors for ESP8266?
Greetings

Andreas

Hi,

would u share / show the schematic? I actually do the same: A small battery-powered "Baseplate" for the pro mini and a NRF24l01. But i wanted to use a HT7733 instead of HT7133 and definitivly NO SMD parts

greetings

Andreas

Hi,

i have Openhab runnning, so i dont want to install EasyIoT too.
Greetings

Ah, ok. Thx. i will try this.
Is there a serial2mqtt-interface on the pi too?

Hi all,

i searched and read a lot topics, but i am still not sure: Is it possible to run a NRF24L01+ directly connected to a Raspi and run a kind of "gateway" in software instead connecting an arduino to the Raspi? I would be happy to get rid of the arduino-ethernet-mqtt gateway...

I think i found a link to sourcecode where someone ported the libs to pi, but no manual about it (howto install,....)..

Maybe someone can give me a helping hand?
Greetings

Andreas