Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501

3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456

when compiling in Arduino IDEdo you remember to select correct Arduino board, Pro Mini and choose 3.3v 8MHz.
Tools->Board->"Arduino Pro or Pro Mini"
Tools->Board->Processor->3,3V 8MHz
Maybe if you forget this you will compile with wrong oscillator frequency and get wrong timings to your communication to DS18B20

Maybe a bit off-topic, but I use octoprint as server for my 3d printer, and use Domoticz as homeautomation server. I want to know when 3D print is done, so I created a node-red flow that connects this via MQTT, so domotics shows print progress...

https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14021&p=162935#p162935

As I have updated my workshop, so I no longer sit at my family kitchen table, but instead have a man-cave, behind a sliding-door closet, next to the water-heater

Thank you Flopp
Now my wife will be a happy wife - since I will upgrade my ceiling lamp to be dimmable and she will have a happy husband since I can remote control the lamp when she forgets to switch it off - I think this is a win-win situation :-)

I copied ToniA's approach to get 5V from the Heatpump, and soldered wires to the IR detection circuit:

@hek said:

@vikasjee
We were thinking of releasing 2.0 when we were having the MySensors meetup/BBQ at my house 9th of July.

So using the term "release-party" is also valid here :-)

Hi I was thinking if we should meet in Malmö (Sweden) for a 1 day afternoon BBQ and nerdy discussion about MySensor stuff?
I can invite for using our garden and the grill

either purchase a standard cheap kettle, and a wallplug, then you can switch on/off via this. Or else you need to create a device that can emulate a persons capacity touching
This guy used a floating pin on Arduino, and then set it to GND, maybe worth a try...
http://blog.theultimatelabs.com/2012/05/triggering-capacitive-touch-screen-with.html

Why?
the chip isn't cheap -and as I remember you MUST be a participating member of the Z-wave alliance were minimum fee us US$ 3000 per year

@korttoma said in Monitoring a wood boiler heating system:

Finally got a MAX31865 + PT100 on a breadboard set up and measuring the smoke temperature.

But I seem to have an issue, either there is something wrong with the library I'm using or the sensor just cant handle the heat. If it gets hot enough I get negative values.

Could it be something that you store your read value in a too small variable, so that you get variable rollover?

@tboha @mfalkvidd
Thank you guys for this OFF-topic question in this thread... Now my Arduino Pro Mini's are back alive again
I used this code http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=213053.msg1564631#msg1564631 uploaded into Arduino Duomilanove, used pin9 to touch the ATmega328P in Crystal clkpin1 - and success

On-topic you get first 2 beers on Saturday :-)

You need this type of sensor: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accelerometer

MPU-6050 3 Axis Accelerometer + 3 Axis Gyro
https://www.mysensors.org/store/motion

Finally got my LoRaWAN RAk831 with RPI gateway online

@sundberg84
Can I assume that you are using power to DHT22 via a FET or directly from Arduino pin, so you are controlling when the DHT22 is getting power/voltage?
I personally think using a DHT22 that requires min 3.3 V is not a good option for battery device - but I understand it can be managed ;-)

http://www.datasheetcafe.com/dht22-datasheet-pdf/
DHT22:

My opinion is is use HTU21D instead since it can operate on a much lower battery voltage. Watch out, some breakout boards have a 3,3V voltage regulator, that is just using battery consumption and isn't needed when using Arduino 3.3V 1Mhz battery operated

@kalina
Looks good, however due to EMC I strongly recommend to add a GND groundplane on your PCB. I would myself have TOP layer as +DC and BOT layer as GND, this provide less power "sparks" on the tracks and a "capacitor" effect on whole PCB

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_plane#/media/File:TerraTec_G3_circuit_board_2.jpg

https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-importance-of-a-ground-plane-of-a-PCB?share=1

@arden said in Nano minimum voltage:

Know officially the nano needs 5v
Has anyone played with the minimum voltage you can get away with

You don't need to play around, as the first thing to do is to read the datasheet for the CPU, a nano like the other original/classic Arduino's are using AtMega328p, then you get knowledge what is possible.
Datasheet: The device operates between 1.8-5.5 volts.
and this means to bypass/remove the voltage regulator on the Nano board

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/ATmega48A-PA-88A-PA-168A-PA-328-P-DS-DS40002061A.pdf

@noclue said in Sensor advice:

@hj_sk I want to control my idea. I have put my ideas out there before, only to be stolen.

either do as Tbowmo suggests, or if you are afraid that we will all steal your idea, I can recommend to contact a electronic development company, that will sign a non-disclosure contract, a company could be this one (I'm not affiliated with the specific company)
https://www.prevas.com/

@nca78
I think you must have misunderstood the concept. I did not use a ethernet splitter and extra cable mess...
I use my router as IP supplier, 1 ethernet cable to my RPI, so I have cable to my domoticz, the RPI gets IP via cable, and if the I'm not able to ping gateway (router) then there is no power as the gateway is down.
the ONLY extra thing I have purchased is a the powerbank :-)

I have a zonestar P802QR2, it's ok, if you can assemble it yourself. I use Cura as STL converter. and I have a RPI with octoprint. http://octoprint.org/ Then I can send my Cura converted files directly to my 3D printer. I have also MQTT installed so my domoticz is aware of the percentage that have been printed, so a little script switchs on a light when 99% is printed + send me an email :-)

My best advices:
0) Get a Iprusa or clone (Mine is clone) (don't flame war this topic, it's an advice to a novice to get started easily. It's quite seldom your first car is the most expensive Mercedes.. Get the point...)

1. When assy screws then use loctite to secure, else screws will unwind due to the stepper movements
2. heated bed, and add a 3mm glass on top, and spray a thin layer of hairspray on top of glass plate. then you PLA will stick nicely
3. Start to use PLA, and ONLY PLA until you are getting experienced
4. calibrate you heatbed often. This is typically your problem if print fucks up
5. still got printing problem, look here: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
6. Don't let your PLA get exposed too long to air, as it is hygroscopic and moisture will damage your PLA, so sometimes get new and fresh PLA is also helping

Here is a 3d printing from my white PLA print motor mount for BOFU motor to use with IKEA Tupplur blinds, STL files can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2878875
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ3Dz7eoZM8