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    Best posts made by bjacobse

    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
      And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501
      0_1525805331216_IMG_20180429_132218.jpg
      0_1525805362758_IMG_20180429_133121.jpg
      0_1525805385308_IMG_20180429_134443.jpg
      0_1525805405692_IMG_20180429_135200.jpg

      3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Arduino Pro Mini & DS18B20

      when compiling in Arduino IDEdo you remember to select correct Arduino board, Pro Mini and choose 3.3v 8MHz.
      Tools->Board->"Arduino Pro or Pro Mini"
      Tools->Board->Processor->3,3V 8MHz
      Maybe if you forget this you will compile with wrong oscillator frequency and get wrong timings to your communication to DS18B20

      posted in Troubleshooting
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      Maybe a bit off-topic, but I use octoprint as server for my 3d printer, and use Domoticz as homeautomation server. I want to know when 3D print is done, so I created a node-red flow that connects this via MQTT, so domotics shows print progress...

      https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14021&p=162935#p162935

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Your workshop :)

      As I have updated my workshop, so I no longer sit at my family kitchen table, but instead have a man-cave, behind a sliding-door closet, next to the water-heater

      0_1562055246970_elektronik_værksted.png

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Discount on Z-wave, clas ohlson

      Thank you Flopp
      Now my wife will be a happy wife - since I will upgrade my ceiling lamp to be dimmable and she will have a happy husband since I can remote control the lamp when she forgets to switch it off - I think this is a win-win situation 🙂

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: 💬 Heatpump / airconditioner controller

      I copied ToniA's approach to get 5V from the Heatpump, and soldered wires to the IR detection circuit:

      4_1483048855084_WP_20161229_019.jpg 3_1483048855084_WP_20161229_018.jpg 2_1483048855084_WP_20161229_017.jpg 1_1483048855084_WP_20161229_016.jpg 0_1483048855083_WP_20161229_015.jpg

      posted in OpenHardware.io
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Update every node?

      @hek said:

      @vikasjee
      We were thinking of releasing 2.0 when we were having the MySensors meetup/BBQ at my house 9th of July.

      So using the term "release-party" is also valid here 🙂

      posted in Troubleshooting
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      Hi I was thinking if we should meet in Malmö (Sweden) for a 1 day afternoon BBQ and nerdy discussion about MySensor stuff?
      I can invite for using our garden and the grill

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Improvement Xiaomi smart kettle (I need help!)

      either purchase a standard cheap kettle, and a wallplug, then you can switch on/off via this. Or else you need to create a device that can emulate a persons capacity touching
      This guy used a floating pin on Arduino, and then set it to GND, maybe worth a try...
      http://blog.theultimatelabs.com/2012/05/triggering-capacitive-touch-screen-with.html

      posted in Development
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Z-wave sensor

      Why?
      the chip isn't cheap -and as I remember you MUST be a participating member of the Z-wave alliance were minimum fee us US$ 3000 per year

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Monitoring a wood boiler heating system

      @korttoma said in Monitoring a wood boiler heating system:

      Finally got a MAX31865 + PT100 on a breadboard set up and measuring the smoke temperature.

      But I seem to have an issue, either there is something wrong with the library I'm using or the sensor just cant handle the heat. If it gets hot enough I get negative values.

      Could it be something that you store your read value in a too small variable, so that you get variable rollover?

      posted in My Project
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      @tboha @mfalkvidd
      Thank you guys for this OFF-topic question in this thread... Now my Arduino Pro Mini's are back alive again
      I used this code http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=213053.msg1564631#msg1564631 uploaded into Arduino Duomilanove, used pin9 to touch the ATmega328P in Crystal clkpin1 - and success

      On-topic you get first 2 beers on Saturday 🙂

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Best sensor for falling alert

      You need this type of sensor: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accelerometer

      MPU-6050 3 Axis Accelerometer + 3 Axis Gyro
      https://www.mysensors.org/store/motion

      posted in My Project
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      Finally got my LoRaWAN RAk831 with RPI gateway online

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Battery powered sensor last 1 week

      @sundberg84
      Can I assume that you are using power to DHT22 via a FET or directly from Arduino pin, so you are controlling when the DHT22 is getting power/voltage?
      I personally think using a DHT22 that requires min 3.3 V is not a good option for battery device - but I understand it can be managed 😉

      http://www.datasheetcafe.com/dht22-datasheet-pdf/
      DHT22:
      0_1478973630852_DHT22.png

      My opinion is is use HTU21D instead since it can operate on a much lower battery voltage. Watch out, some breakout boards have a 3,3V voltage regulator, that is just using battery consumption and isn't needed when using Arduino 3.3V 1Mhz battery operated

      0_1478974581628_HTU21D.png

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      @kalina
      Looks good, however due to EMC I strongly recommend to add a GND groundplane on your PCB. I would myself have TOP layer as +DC and BOT layer as GND, this provide less power "sparks" on the tracks and a "capacitor" effect on whole PCB

      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_plane#/media/File:TerraTec_G3_circuit_board_2.jpg

      https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-importance-of-a-ground-plane-of-a-PCB?share=1

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Nano minimum voltage

      @arden said in Nano minimum voltage:

      Know officially the nano needs 5v
      Has anyone played with the minimum voltage you can get away with

      You don't need to play around, as the first thing to do is to read the datasheet for the CPU, a nano like the other original/classic Arduino's are using AtMega328p, then you get knowledge what is possible.
      Datasheet: The device operates between 1.8-5.5 volts.
      and this means to bypass/remove the voltage regulator on the Nano board

      http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/ATmega48A-PA-88A-PA-168A-PA-328-P-DS-DS40002061A.pdf

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Sensor advice

      @noclue said in Sensor advice:

      @hj_sk I want to control my idea. I have put my ideas out there before, only to be stolen.

      either do as Tbowmo suggests, or if you are afraid that we will all steal your idea, I can recommend to contact a electronic development company, that will sign a non-disclosure contract, a company could be this one (I'm not affiliated with the specific company)
      https://www.prevas.com/

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Raspberry Pi3 alternative?

      @nca78
      I think you must have misunderstood the concept. I did not use a ethernet splitter and extra cable mess...
      I use my router as IP supplier, 1 ethernet cable to my RPI, so I have cable to my domoticz, the RPI gets IP via cable, and if the I'm not able to ping gateway (router) then there is no power as the gateway is down.
      the ONLY extra thing I have purchased is a the powerbank 🙂

      posted in Controllers
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Best 3d printers

      I have a zonestar P802QR2, it's ok, if you can assemble it yourself. I use Cura as STL converter. and I have a RPI with octoprint. http://octoprint.org/ Then I can send my Cura converted files directly to my 3D printer. I have also MQTT installed so my domoticz is aware of the percentage that have been printed, so a little script switchs on a light when 99% is printed + send me an email 🙂

      My best advices:
      0) Get a Iprusa or clone (Mine is clone) (don't flame war this topic, it's an advice to a novice to get started easily. It's quite seldom your first car is the most expensive Mercedes.. Get the point...)

      1. When assy screws then use loctite to secure, else screws will unwind due to the stepper movements
      2. heated bed, and add a 3mm glass on top, and spray a thin layer of hairspray on top of glass plate. then you PLA will stick nicely
      3. Start to use PLA, and ONLY PLA until you are getting experienced
      4. calibrate you heatbed often. This is typically your problem if print fucks up
      5. still got printing problem, look here: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
      6. Don't let your PLA get exposed too long to air, as it is hygroscopic and moisture will damage your PLA, so sometimes get new and fresh PLA is also helping

      Here is a 3d printing from my white PLA print motor mount for BOFU motor to use with IKEA Tupplur blinds, STL files can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2878875
      3D printer, Zonestar P802QR2 – 19:21
      — Bryan Jac

      posted in Enclosures / 3D Printing
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Buy designs on OpenHardware.io

      Good way to ensure that mysensors + author gets some hard value credit 🙂 This will help us all that those people involved to get things moving forward also get donation accordingly

      posted in OpenHardware.io
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Pooling battery relay

      What a great post to read for the New Year to come. This will be perfect solution for me to add this heartbeat to a smoke alarm, so that I can sent burgler-alarm signal to smoke alarm and disturb burglars

      posted in Home Assistant
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Raspberry Pi3 alternative?

      @mfalkvidd
      The powerbank I am using is a Linocell 7800mA. YES I AM AWARE that it's stated on the powerbank that it's not allowed to both charge powerbank an use it as powerbank - But that is exactly what I do 😉
      Bought here:
      https://www.kjell.com/se/produkter/hem-kontor-fritid/fritid/resetillbehor/powerbank/linocell-3x-dual-powerbank-7800-mah-bla-p96870

      posted in Controllers
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Looking for case with AC plug

      http://elektronik-lavpris.dk/c5628/bokse-kasser-skabe/netdel-huse/

      Only disadvantage is they charge dkk 70 for postage & packing

      posted in Enclosures / 3D Printing
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: 💬 Various bootloader files based on Optiboot 6.2

      when I run the below command in Ubuntu I can flash the bootloader

      sudo avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U flash:w:optiboot_atmega328_01M_009600_NOLED.hex  -U lfuse:w:0x62:m -U hfuse:w:0xDE:m -U efuse:w:0x07:m
      
      

      And then I can use the Arduino IDE and upload sketch with settings for 1MHz external 9k6 BOD=1V8

      posted in OpenHardware.io
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      @tbowmo
      That is no excuse 🙂
      I occasionally are in Thisted (Northwestern part of DK), and fly from CPH to Aalborg. Norwegian has fairly prices...
      Tell your wife you will purchase some new shoes to her, if she let you come to join us 🙂

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Redesign: MySensors.org!

      Looks good 🙂
      Keep up the good work
      Just wondering that my middle mouse button wont open tabs in Firefox in this new gui? referring to the boxes below "Newest Articles" and for "Recently Updated"

      posted in Announcements
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: 3d hubs alternative?

      Sweden is fairly long country (1,574 km) I'm located in Malmö region, so depending where you are hiding you are welcome to drop by (not sure how well PostNord are these days, but I can try to post) (I'm not near my printer the next couple of days, but in the weekend I'm able to print)
      I have so far only printed with PLA. and for now I wouldn't yet upgrade to print with ABS, so be aware that PLA isn't UV and weather proof

      I have just gotten my 3d printer on youtube, just a boring test video below
      Livestream for Brian Jac – 01:55
      — Bryan Jac

      Sweden facts:
      https://www.nationsencyclopedia.com/Europe/Sweden-LOCATION-SIZE-AND-EXTENT.html

      posted in Enclosures / 3D Printing
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: 💬 Extremely Simple Arduino Pro-Mini LoRa Water Leak Detector

      What a nice design you have created 🙂

      posted in OpenHardware.io
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      @hek
      3D printing and HA demo - Well that beats my setup 😉 so we will arrive to Bjärred.
      I have a car, adn can pick-up a few in Hyllie trainstation (First trainstation in Sweden if you are travelling in train from DK/Kastrup airport)

      so if tbowmo shall get a cheap flight, then we shall set a date soonish

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: 💬 What's all the fuss about?

      @mfalkvidd said in 💬 What's all the fuss about?:

      Our general recommendation is to start simple and then add more logic step by step.

      And this good rules can actually be transferred to almost anything 🙂

      posted in Announcements
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Desktop 8 button scene controller

      Looks good and my only comment is if it's easy to round/chamfer the edges of the box so it's hand-friendly with no rough edges/corners

      posted in Enclosures / 3D Printing
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: 💬 Air quality and weather forecast sensor

      @berkseo congratulations

      posted in OpenHardware.io
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      Doodle link for participation
      http://doodle.com/poll/6qgyksdnsaxn28w9

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Removing pro mini led bricked the board

      I use similar clones with success.
      BUT do NOT cut the wires, un-solder or just wipe off the electrical component. The PCB is routing a wire below the voltage regulator so cutting the wires with a knife will kill it. The cutting trick is ONLY valid on genuine Arduino Pro MIni boards

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Best 3d printers

      @skywatch @mbj
      I think you are experienced and - and would you really recommend for a fist time use/novice as the topic poster to suggest printing in more than 1 colour? as beginner you need advice to get started and get success, and build competence, then you can later on move to a higher level, modify your printer and print with several colours

      posted in Enclosures / 3D Printing
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Never been able to get MySensors to work

      If the proposed serial gateway wont work, then try something else, if you have a friend that also use home automation, maybe you can try to connect you gateway and sensor to his system, then you are away from your home, maybe something is disturbing your 2.4GHz communication

      posted in OpenHAB
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: second hand / exchange market

      Good idea, only disadvantage is that postage from China is free, when have to send anything form Denmark or Sweden, I have to pay more in postage that the electronics costs + postage from China...
      How to do this in a good way?

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Pollen sensor for hay fever alert

      and in Denmark you will use this:
      http://www.dmi.dk/vejr/sundhedsvejr/pollen/

      And to be actually, the pollen is handcounted every day during the season - there different kinds of pollen in the air Bitch, Grass, Fungus, Well all kind of trees through something around... I don't believe for now there exist a cheap automated system for this...

      The best/easiest you can do for your house, crate a hole in your walls and install a fan with filter and keep your windows shut. Something similar like the below link
      http://www.billigvvs.dk/Varmesystemer-Varmegenvinding-Duka--Duka-One-et-rums-varmegenvinding-150x150-mm-til-ca-50-m-1093468.html?gclid=CP2P5uqXgswCFcL2cgodD5YE3Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: lost serial gateway after un plug power Rpi

      Somehow I think it's more related to the linux kernel than it's a mysensors or Domticz related issue
      I would start to check which linux kernel you are using with uname -a and then start to search from this
      Maybe it could also be USB power related? Try to use a better USB power supply to your RPI
      https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53832

      posted in Domoticz
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Best 3d printers

      @skywatch said in Best 3d printers:

      @mbj Also know that colour 3d printer are now available and likely to become the norm sometime in the future. So something to bear in mind....

      Doesn't matter, if you need it in the future, buy parts for it when you need it. I purchased to be "future" safe a version with dual hotends, so I during print can change and use another colour. I thought it could be nice if I print a box and embed name for input or output in another colour. I have not used it yet... as Dymo labels are easier

      posted in Enclosures / 3D Printing
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      Thomas, du er velkommen til at køre med mig, jeg kan tage dig med fra Hyllie station (I live in Bunkeflostrand/Malmø vicinity), it's first train station after Kastrup airport.
      You are welcome to put up a tent in our garden and use our facilities

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: PCB surface finish. HASL .. ENIG .. Immersion Silver .. etc

      @ahmedadelhosni
      I have no idea what your friends tell you - you must ask him to explain the details. Since I makes no logic what he have told you
      Shelf life - is the time from when you get the your "stuff" to you actually are using it. Ie. you receive a PCB and pout it to your shelf for a time, and then one day you decide to take it from your shelf and actually want to solder components on it.
      The thing with metals is that the oxidate /corrode . if it's not easy yo understand with PCB and pads that corrode and makes soldering impossible. Then think of normal iron on your car. when exposed without paint it starts corrode, and noone can actually weld on corrosion, they must first grind/sandpapaer corrosion away down to bare iron, and then welding is possible - it's analogy to PCB and soldering pads and components

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Are folks here happy with Domoticz?

      I agree to Sundberg84
      I'm a happy user, Domotics have a large community and most what you need, someone already have spend some time with it, to make it work one way or another...

      posted in Domoticz
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Best 3d printers

      @crumpy10
      I use Freecad as it works on Linux/Ububntu
      Why not use the CAD program that already are using and are familiar with

      posted in Enclosures / 3D Printing
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Your workshop :)

      @Samuel235
      I usually always order more than I need. And as soon as I wonder do I need this - I order from ebay or aliexpress 🙂
      so I am staring to sort out stuff. I bought a box from Biltema for my electronic stuff

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Manufacturing and selling proto boards

      @sky2000
      When TI sell a proto MCU board (This is not a product), this is supposed to be used for evaluation and check functionality, that you can use, and when you then incorporate this into your own product, then you must ensure FCC, CE and other legal docs.
      There is a line between a product (Product= sell to a consumer) and a module/board that is supposed to be used be an expert to develop a product

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Powering a sensor with digital out

      @xydix
      Arduino using Atmega can supply max 40mA per pin, and in total max 100mA.
      DS18B20 seems to use max 1,5mA
      so yes this will work
      After searching on the net.
      https://github.com/nathanchantrell/TinyTX/blob/master/TinyTX_DS18B20/TinyTX_DS18B20.ino

      The part for the power on, read, power off is below (taken from the above link):

      void loop() {

      digitalWrite(ONE_WIRE_POWER, HIGH); // turn DS18B20 sensor on

      //Sleepy::loseSomeTime(5); // Allow 5ms for the sensor to be ready
      delay(5); // The above doesn't seem to work for everyone (why?)

      sensors.begin(); //start up temp sensor
      sensors.requestTemperatures(); // Get the temperature
      tinytx.temp=(sensors.getTempCByIndex(0)*100); // Read first sensor and convert to integer, reversed at receiving end

      digitalWrite(ONE_WIRE_POWER, LOW); // turn DS18B20 off

      posted in Development
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      I'm looking forward to meet you all 🙂

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Battery powered sensor last 1 week

      The DHT22 sensor will also quickly use all your battery power
      Replace your NRF24L01+ module, I have had a few that consume too much power, and drain the battery...

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Watchdog not watchdogging?

      @mfalkvidd
      This just shows how clever/smart the mysensors code are developed 🙂

      posted in Development
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      Hi all,
      Status for participants:
      9 good guys (aka Respected Honored Members of MySensors Community)
      0_1466065690210_upload-580a3f78-a860-425e-8088-527abc6d326c

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: ESP8266 questions before buying

      I also vote for Wemos D1 Mini Pro
      But I have no intention to use those for battery operation, As the other guys states, only option for low power battery operation is Arduino+ NRF24L01+
      Actually a fairly little nice device:
      https://www.wemos.cc/product/d1-mini-pro.html

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Domoticz as controller **and** a gateway for MySensor nodes running on a Raspberry Pi 2

      I would in Domoticz use MySensors Gateway USB and point to /dev/ttyMySensorsGateway
      did you read the last part of the guide? where Mrfalkvidd specifically added a note for Domoticz , the below is taken from the link you are referring to:

      "Enable the gateway for use with Domoticz
      Domoticz (and maybe other home automation systems) has trouble reading from the default path created by PiGatewaySerial. You might need to run the following command:

      sudo ln -s /dev/ttyMySensorsGateway /dev/ttyUSB20

      And change /etc/rc.local from this

      exit 0

      to this:
      ln -s /dev/ttyMySensorsGateway /dev/ttyUSB20
      exit 0
      "

      If this still isn't working for you, then make the standard serial gateway, with Arduino nano+NRF24L01+ (And capacitor on Vcc/GND as close to NRF module as possible) - this is for sure working 🙂

      posted in My Project
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Reporting Battery Level

      I don't have my sketch available, but I used this code below for measuring 2xAA. I have changed #define MIN_V 1900 (milliVolt) since I have disabled BOD, so Arduino runs to 1,8V, bur NRF24L01+ is working down t0 1,9V
      NOTE: This is only showing battery measuring, it's not a full sketch...

        void loop() 
        {
        #define MIN_V 2700
        #define MAX_V 3200
        int batteryPcnt = min(map(readVcc(), MIN_V, MAX_V, 0, 100), 100); // Convert voltage to percentage
        gw.sendBatteryLevel(batteryPcnt); // Send battery percentage to gateway
         
        } 
        long readVcc() {
          // Read 1.1V reference against AVcc
          // set the reference to Vcc and the measurement to the internal 1.1V reference
          #if defined(__AVR_ATmega32U4__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega1280__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega2560__)
            ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX4) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
          #elif defined (__AVR_ATtiny24__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny44__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny84__)
            ADMUX = _BV(MUX5) | _BV(MUX0);
          #elif defined (__AVR_ATtiny25__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny45__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny85__)
            ADMUX = _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2);
          #else
            ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
          #endif  
         
          delay(2); // Wait for Vref to settle
          ADCSRA |= _BV(ADSC); // Start conversion
          while (bit_is_set(ADCSRA,ADSC)); // measuring
         
          uint8_t low  = ADCL; // must read ADCL first - it then locks ADCH  
          uint8_t high = ADCH; // unlocks both
         
          long result = (high<<8) | low;
         
          result = 1125300L / result; // Calculate Vcc (in mV); 1125300 = 1.1*1023*1000
          return result; // Vcc in millivolts
        }
      
      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Water pressure sensors?

      You can also measure the pressure, how much pressure to creating air bubbles

      Below is written by Benoit Drooghaag (just to ensure I provide credit to the author)

      http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/Waterlevel

      0_1525679094193_f2d25022-bc23-49d7-9bf8-ae869fc4121b-image.png

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Monitoring a wood boiler heating system

      @enlo
      I would assume to drill a hole in the metal chimney that is between the wood boiler and the brick chimney.
      then depending of the K-type thermocouple
      then there is a nut so you can secure this like this:
      https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-High-Temperature-100-To-1250-Degree-Thermocouple-K-Type-100mm-Stainless-Steel-Probe-Sensors/32786956791.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.1.LxioyK

      Or else you can sealed with special heat resistant seal:
      https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heat-Resistant-Sealant-1250-300ml/dp/B0046450C4

      posted in My Project
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      I bring beers

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Erratic battery reading when powering via RAW pin

      Maybe this is due to a timing issue inside the ATmega328 architecture, after wakeup from sleep, then try to wait 500 micro-sec before you are measuring the voltage

      https://www.sciencetronics.com/greenphotons/?p=1521

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Trigger when mouse trap caught a mouse

      @gohan
      Thank you, this will be my approach, then the sketch is the door/windows sensor
      Thank you all for input.
      I will post pics when project is ready

      posted in My Project
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Battery powered smoke sensor

      You can get some inspiration from here:
      http://harizanov.com/2014/07/diy-internet-of-things-fire-alarm/

      Quote from the above link: "The piezo siren is activated with a 200ms series of 6.5Khz 50% PWM at 9V so I had to create a small voltage divider + a capacitor to smoothen the signal out and bring it to 3V so the Funky v1 can handle it. A 4.7K:10K + 1 uF ceramic capacitor works well"

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Sensor NRF24L01+ sleep current

      @flopp
      This is the correct way, to sleep and use interrupt for this 🙂 so you are using interrupt
      http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/417/gw-sleep-and-milis

      posted in Troubleshooting
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Gateway with Relays (4) on WEMOS D1 R1

      I don't use myself the Mycontroller, but how is the Wemos D1 r1, have you flashed ESPEASY to your Wemos?

      MyControllerDevice
      IMPORTANT: For now this library supports up to ESP 8266 community version: 2.3.0 If you compile with 2.4.0 or greater version. This code will not work as expected.

      https://github.com/mycontroller-org/MyControllerDevice

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Meet in Malmö, Summer 2016?

      Thank you all for a great event - it was nice to meet face-2-face and see who you are. And thank you to Henrik, wife and kids to hos us all

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Arduino Pro Mini & DS18B20

      @martim
      Good that you replied what made the trick for you, so other can read what to check 🙂
      Godt Nytår

      posted in Troubleshooting
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Nano minimum voltage

      @kimot said in Nano minimum voltage:

      But it do NOT means with 16Mhz crystal on Arduino Nano ...

      Well the AtMega328 has an option to use internal RC oscillation and hence don't need to use the 16MHZ crystal.
      yes we agree that with low voltage you must use 1MHz, -> 8MHZ div8

      From the link I have provided above, read chap 9.6:
      Calibrated Internal RC Oscillator
      By default, the Internal RC Oscillator provides an approximate 8.0MHz clock. Though voltage and temperature
      dependent, this clock can be very accurately calibrated by the user. See Table 29-9 on page 313 for more
      details. The device is shipped with the CKDIV8 Fuse programmed. See ”System Clock Prescaler” on page 45
      for more details.
      This clock may be selected as the system clock by programming the CKSEL Fuses as shown in Table 9-11. If
      selected, it will operate with no external components.

      And yes it's possible and maybe needed to calibrate the internal RC, that you need to test

      And yes you need also to change fuse for BOD (Brown out detection) as this by default close down the ATMega328 below 2.7V
      read chap 10.2: BOD Disable

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • How to purchase mysensors SW protocol stack, instead of donation

      Hi,
      For Danish tax authorities there is a difference to "donate" and purchase of a "product".
      http://www.skat.dk/skat.aspx?oId=1648476&vId=0)
      Provides this text: Du kan få fradrag for fx: Varekøb, dvs. udgifter til varer, som du sælge

      My idea is to sell a complete sensor, and provide a donation to Mysensors/Sensnology for each sensor product I will sell.
      https://www.openhardware.io/view/56/Mys-Interposer-NRFArduino-Pro-Mini#tabs-instructions

      So instead of making a donation, can I then instead purchase a "product" ? I would like to purchase a "mysensors sw protocol" from Sensnology. Maybe this could be done so there will be a button next to donation button, but call it buy SW protocol stack, let me enter the donation amount to pay via paypal, email address, and send me a valid invoice as pdf to my email?

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: ds18b20 on 2xAAA battery

      It appears that you during runtime can change prescale, so you should be able to change clock frequency to 8MHz when reading DS18B20 and after reading change clock back to 1MHz

      https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=223771.0

      posted in Troubleshooting
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Nano minimum voltage

      @zboblamont said in Nano minimum voltage:

      @arden With so many more efficient boosters available than stock voltage regulators I have to question the wisdom of detuning any device to accommodate the power supply for all but the most extreme requirements.
      With the Nano's USB converter constantly sucking power it is the least frugal device of the newer Arduinos, the pro-mini has a wealth of information on reducing sleep load power with LED and VR removed, perhaps a change in approach may be worthwhile ?

      Yes I fully agree, but if Arden only have those Nano available, he can use those with extra effort to remove all those not needed current consumption IC's

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      @mfalkvidd
      Damn you're fast 🙂

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: ds18b20 on 2xAAA battery

      Well then another approach is not to use DS18B20 🙂
      Have you checked TMP117 price seems to be 2USD in higher qty, and supply range: 1.8 V to 5.5 V

      http://www.ti.com/product/TMP117

      https://www.digikey.com/products/en/sensors-transducers/temperature-sensors-analog-and-digital-output/518?FV=ffe00206&quantity=0&ColumnSort=1000011&page=1&k=TMP117&pageSize=25

      And someone have made a lib to Arduino: https://github.com/NilsMinor/TMP117-Arduino

      posted in Troubleshooting
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Is it worth it adding a reset circuit to MySensors nodes?

      Just wondering why not use Watchdog?, it's supposed to restart MCU when it freese.
      The watchdog shall be disabled before entering sleep state and enabled when wake up.

      I would recommend to set the watchdog to max time=8seconds. then you only need to clear the wdt every 7 sec 🙂
      As I recall the default bootloader in Arduino, doesn't have the WDT enabled, so you shall flash Optiboot or similar bootloader

      I searched for an example:
      https://www.electronicwings.com/arduino/watchdog-in-arduino

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      @dbemowsk
      hi did you check the link I supplied? I rather discuss the topic in domoticz forum, as it could benefit other Domoticz/octoprint userrs
      https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14021&p=162935#p162935
      but I have installed on the octoprint the mqtt plugin, as my domoticz is also running both mosquitto and node-red, I specify the ip adress for domoticz in setup the broker in octoprint plugin mqtt,

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Simple door sensor battery node drains 2 x AA in a week due to pin D2

      is the D2 pin also connected to the RF module?

      posted in Troubleshooting
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Is it worth it adding a reset circuit to MySensors nodes?

      @skywatch said in Is it worth it adding a reset circuit to MySensors nodes?:

      @bjacobse Good point, but what happens if it freezes during sleep?

      It's NOT possible, it's in sleep, it's an integrated part of the IC design, and such a bug would have been found many years ago. The ATmeag328 will go into a well defined state, which is sleep, until it's getting woken up, by an interrupt or a timer.
      Naturally the registers are required to be setup up properly

      As I wrote, you SHALL disable WDT (watchdog) prior entering sleepmode, and after wakeup then you enable WDT again, else the WDT will reset the Atmega328 while you are in sleeep 😉

      ATMeag328 documentation:
      http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-7810-Automotive-Microcontrollers-ATmega328P_Datasheet.pdf

      posted in Hardware
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      @sundberg84
      Redundancy, maybe you should get a second temp/humidity measurement device, just in case your current beer cooler temp node breaks down...

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      @mfalkvidd Thanks for the link to the post, I think I should upgrade and use aluminium foil as you done to make a GND shield around the PIR sensor

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      @sundberg84
      Thank you Sundberg for your help, I now have received my own microscope, a reply to your comments from 1 or 2 months ago

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: MQTT Protocol Question

      I use Domoticz, and this have native support for Mysensors. This means that you don't have think about how it's talking to each other (Protocol), It then uses the serial gateway

      You can also install MQTT (and you need a broker too, Mosquitto) so that you can use devices that uses MQTT as protocol.
      https://www.domoticz.com/wiki/MQTT#Introduction

      It depends on your controller (controller= homeautomation controller)

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Code explanation

      Is it the conditional operator in C language you mean?
      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%3F:#C

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: What did you build today (Pictures) ?

      https://github.com/dkjonas/Wavin-AHC-9000-mqtt
      iron and toner transfer, then etched and soldered and finally acrylic spray on cobber so it won't corrode

      0_1575573660599_wavin_9000_mqtt.png

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Flaky ATmega328Ps from China

      You can't trust China these days... As many DIY people a few years ago purchased a lot of electronic stuff from China, the counterfeit industry scaled the growth too

      If you can take the "original" and program and it's working flawless, and those cheap Chinese ain't working, then assume they are counterfeit...

      https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9388/atmega328p-au-counterfeit/18

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Flaky ATmega328Ps from China

      regardless if those are counterfeit or they are production rejects, selling those as "good" and "original" is just not appropriate - this leads to that noone will buy from the "grey area"Chinese suppliers...

      And not to prejudiced against China or Chinese people, there are good and untrustworthy people in all countries

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Anyone cleaning the flux off using an ultrasonic cleaner?

      Those few IC that we dip in flux, is because they have solderballs on the IC from supplier, the remaining components will have solderpaste on each solderpad in PCB.
      We don't "remove" flux, we just forward the PCB on conveyor belts into heating oven (REHM reflow solder oven, with Nitrogen gas, to get better solderability as there will be less oxygen interefering during soldering in oven)

      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Anyone cleaning the flux off using an ultrasonic cleaner?

      @NeverDie
      We don't use conformal coating. But we use hydrofob coating of the whole device, so w avoid water ingress through the plastic box

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse
    • RE: Your workshop :)

      @MatiasV No-no, you need much more stuff before it will be "average" 😉

      posted in General Discussion
      bjacobse
      bjacobse