Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501
3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456
when compiling in Arduino IDEdo you remember to select correct Arduino board, Pro Mini and choose 3.3v 8MHz.
Tools->Board->"Arduino Pro or Pro Mini"
Tools->Board->Processor->3,3V 8MHz
Maybe if you forget this you will compile with wrong oscillator frequency and get wrong timings to your communication to DS18B20
Maybe a bit off-topic, but I use octoprint as server for my 3d printer, and use Domoticz as homeautomation server. I want to know when 3D print is done, so I created a node-red flow that connects this via MQTT, so domotics shows print progress...
https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14021&p=162935#p162935
As I have updated my workshop, so I no longer sit at my family kitchen table, but instead have a man-cave, behind a sliding-door closet, next to the water-heater
Thank you Flopp
Now my wife will be a happy wife - since I will upgrade my ceiling lamp to be dimmable and she will have a happy husband since I can remote control the lamp when she forgets to switch it off - I think this is a win-win situation 
I copied ToniA's approach to get 5V from the Heatpump, and soldered wires to the IR detection circuit:
@hek said:
@vikasjee
We were thinking of releasing 2.0 when we were having the MySensors meetup/BBQ at my house 9th of July.
So using the term "release-party" is also valid here
Hi I was thinking if we should meet in Malmö (Sweden) for a 1 day afternoon BBQ and nerdy discussion about MySensor stuff?
I can invite for using our garden and the grill
either purchase a standard cheap kettle, and a wallplug, then you can switch on/off via this. Or else you need to create a device that can emulate a persons capacity touching
This guy used a floating pin on Arduino, and then set it to GND, maybe worth a try...
http://blog.theultimatelabs.com/2012/05/triggering-capacitive-touch-screen-with.html
Why?
the chip isn't cheap -and as I remember you MUST be a participating member of the Z-wave alliance were minimum fee us US$ 3000 per year
@korttoma said in Monitoring a wood boiler heating system:
Finally got a MAX31865 + PT100 on a breadboard set up and measuring the smoke temperature.
But I seem to have an issue, either there is something wrong with the library I'm using or the sensor just cant handle the heat. If it gets hot enough I get negative values.
Could it be something that you store your read value in a too small variable, so that you get variable rollover?
@tboha @mfalkvidd
Thank you guys for this OFF-topic question in this thread... Now my Arduino Pro Mini's are back alive again
I used this code http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=213053.msg1564631#msg1564631 uploaded into Arduino Duomilanove, used pin9 to touch the ATmega328P in Crystal clkpin1 - and success
On-topic you get first 2 beers on Saturday
You need this type of sensor: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accelerometer
MPU-6050 3 Axis Accelerometer + 3 Axis Gyro
https://www.mysensors.org/store/motion
Finally got my LoRaWAN RAk831 with RPI gateway online
@sundberg84
Can I assume that you are using power to DHT22 via a FET or directly from Arduino pin, so you are controlling when the DHT22 is getting power/voltage?
I personally think using a DHT22 that requires min 3.3 V is not a good option for battery device - but I understand it can be managed 
http://www.datasheetcafe.com/dht22-datasheet-pdf/
DHT22:
My opinion is is use HTU21D instead since it can operate on a much lower battery voltage. Watch out, some breakout boards have a 3,3V voltage regulator, that is just using battery consumption and isn't needed when using Arduino 3.3V 1Mhz battery operated
@kalina
Looks good, however due to EMC I strongly recommend to add a GND groundplane on your PCB. I would myself have TOP layer as +DC and BOT layer as GND, this provide less power "sparks" on the tracks and a "capacitor" effect on whole PCB
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_plane#/media/File:TerraTec_G3_circuit_board_2.jpg
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-importance-of-a-ground-plane-of-a-PCB?share=1
@arden said in Nano minimum voltage:
Know officially the nano needs 5v
Has anyone played with the minimum voltage you can get away with
You don't need to play around, as the first thing to do is to read the datasheet for the CPU, a nano like the other original/classic Arduino's are using AtMega328p, then you get knowledge what is possible.
Datasheet: The device operates between 1.8-5.5 volts.
and this means to bypass/remove the voltage regulator on the Nano board
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/ATmega48A-PA-88A-PA-168A-PA-328-P-DS-DS40002061A.pdf
@noclue said in Sensor advice:
@hj_sk I want to control my idea. I have put my ideas out there before, only to be stolen.
either do as Tbowmo suggests, or if you are afraid that we will all steal your idea, I can recommend to contact a electronic development company, that will sign a non-disclosure contract, a company could be this one (I'm not affiliated with the specific company)
https://www.prevas.com/
@nca78
I think you must have misunderstood the concept. I did not use a ethernet splitter and extra cable mess...
I use my router as IP supplier, 1 ethernet cable to my RPI, so I have cable to my domoticz, the RPI gets IP via cable, and if the I'm not able to ping gateway (router) then there is no power as the gateway is down.
the ONLY extra thing I have purchased is a the powerbank
I have a zonestar P802QR2, it's ok, if you can assemble it yourself. I use Cura as STL converter. and I have a RPI with octoprint. http://octoprint.org/ Then I can send my Cura converted files directly to my 3D printer. I have also MQTT installed so my domoticz is aware of the percentage that have been printed, so a little script switchs on a light when 99% is printed + send me an email
My best advices:
0) Get a Iprusa or clone (Mine is clone) (don't flame war this topic, it's an advice to a novice to get started easily. It's quite seldom your first car is the most expensive Mercedes.. Get the point...)
Here is a 3d printing from my white PLA print motor mount for BOFU motor to use with IKEA Tupplur blinds, STL files can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2878875
3D printer, Zonestar P802QR2 – 19:21
— Brian Jac
Good way to ensure that mysensors + author gets some hard value credit This will help us all that those people involved to get things moving forward also get donation accordingly
What a great post to read for the New Year to come. This will be perfect solution for me to add this heartbeat to a smoke alarm, so that I can sent burgler-alarm signal to smoke alarm and disturb burglars
@mfalkvidd
The powerbank I am using is a Linocell 7800mA. YES I AM AWARE that it's stated on the powerbank that it's not allowed to both charge powerbank an use it as powerbank - But that is exactly what I do
Bought here:
https://www.kjell.com/se/produkter/hem-kontor-fritid/fritid/resetillbehor/powerbank/linocell-3x-dual-powerbank-7800-mah-bla-p96870
http://elektronik-lavpris.dk/c5628/bokse-kasser-skabe/netdel-huse/
Only disadvantage is they charge dkk 70 for postage & packing
when I run the below command in Ubuntu I can flash the bootloader
sudo avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U flash:w:optiboot_atmega328_01M_009600_NOLED.hex -U lfuse:w:0x62:m -U hfuse:w:0xDE:m -U efuse:w:0x07:m
And then I can use the Arduino IDE and upload sketch with settings for 1MHz external 9k6 BOD=1V8
@tbowmo
That is no excuse
I occasionally are in Thisted (Northwestern part of DK), and fly from CPH to Aalborg. Norwegian has fairly prices...
Tell your wife you will purchase some new shoes to her, if she let you come to join us
Looks good
Keep up the good work
Just wondering that my middle mouse button wont open tabs in Firefox in this new gui? referring to the boxes below "Newest Articles" and for "Recently Updated"
Sweden is fairly long country (1,574 km) I'm located in Malmö region, so depending where you are hiding you are welcome to drop by (not sure how well PostNord are these days, but I can try to post) (I'm not near my printer the next couple of days, but in the weekend I'm able to print)
I have so far only printed with PLA. and for now I wouldn't yet upgrade to print with ABS, so be aware that PLA isn't UV and weather proof
I have just gotten my 3d printer on youtube, just a boring test video below
Livestream for Brian Jac – 01:55
— Brian Jac
Sweden facts:
https://www.nationsencyclopedia.com/Europe/Sweden-LOCATION-SIZE-AND-EXTENT.html
What a nice design you have created
@hek
3D printing and HA demo - Well that beats my setup so we will arrive to Bjärred.
I have a car, adn can pick-up a few in Hyllie trainstation (First trainstation in Sweden if you are travelling in train from DK/Kastrup airport)
so if tbowmo shall get a cheap flight, then we shall set a date soonish
@mfalkvidd said in 
What's all the fuss about?:
Our general recommendation is to start simple and then add more logic step by step.
And this good rules can actually be transferred to almost anything
Looks good and my only comment is if it's easy to round/chamfer the edges of the box so it's hand-friendly with no rough edges/corners
Doodle link for participation
http://doodle.com/poll/6qgyksdnsaxn28w9
I use similar clones with success.
BUT do NOT cut the wires, un-solder or just wipe off the electrical component. The PCB is routing a wire below the voltage regulator so cutting the wires with a knife will kill it. The cutting trick is ONLY valid on genuine Arduino Pro MIni boards
@skywatch @mbj
I think you are experienced and - and would you really recommend for a fist time use/novice as the topic poster to suggest printing in more than 1 colour? as beginner you need advice to get started and get success, and build competence, then you can later on move to a higher level, modify your printer and print with several colours
If the proposed serial gateway wont work, then try something else, if you have a friend that also use home automation, maybe you can try to connect you gateway and sensor to his system, then you are away from your home, maybe something is disturbing your 2.4GHz communication
Good idea, only disadvantage is that postage from China is free, when have to send anything form Denmark or Sweden, I have to pay more in postage that the electronics costs + postage from China...
How to do this in a good way?
and in Denmark you will use this:
http://www.dmi.dk/vejr/sundhedsvejr/pollen/
And to be actually, the pollen is handcounted every day during the season - there different kinds of pollen in the air Bitch, Grass, Fungus, Well all kind of trees through something around... I don't believe for now there exist a cheap automated system for this...
The best/easiest you can do for your house, crate a hole in your walls and install a fan with filter and keep your windows shut. Something similar like the below link
http://www.billigvvs.dk/Varmesystemer-Varmegenvinding-Duka--Duka-One-et-rums-varmegenvinding-150x150-mm-til-ca-50-m-1093468.html?gclid=CP2P5uqXgswCFcL2cgodD5YE3Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
Somehow I think it's more related to the linux kernel than it's a mysensors or Domticz related issue
I would start to check which linux kernel you are using with uname -a and then start to search from this
Maybe it could also be USB power related? Try to use a better USB power supply to your RPI
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53832
@skywatch said in Best 3d printers:
@mbj Also know that colour 3d printer are now available and likely to become the norm sometime in the future. So something to bear in mind....
Doesn't matter, if you need it in the future, buy parts for it when you need it. I purchased to be "future" safe a version with dual hotends, so I during print can change and use another colour. I thought it could be nice if I print a box and embed name for input or output in another colour. I have not used it yet... as Dymo labels are easier
Thomas, du er velkommen til at køre med mig, jeg kan tage dig med fra Hyllie station (I live in Bunkeflostrand/Malmø vicinity), it's first train station after Kastrup airport.
You are welcome to put up a tent in our garden and use our facilities
@ahmedadelhosni
I have no idea what your friends tell you - you must ask him to explain the details. Since I makes no logic what he have told you
Shelf life - is the time from when you get the your "stuff" to you actually are using it. Ie. you receive a PCB and pout it to your shelf for a time, and then one day you decide to take it from your shelf and actually want to solder components on it.
The thing with metals is that the oxidate /corrode . if it's not easy yo understand with PCB and pads that corrode and makes soldering impossible. Then think of normal iron on your car. when exposed without paint it starts corrode, and noone can actually weld on corrosion, they must first grind/sandpapaer corrosion away down to bare iron, and then welding is possible - it's analogy to PCB and soldering pads and components
I agree to Sundberg84
I'm a happy user, Domotics have a large community and most what you need, someone already have spend some time with it, to make it work one way or another...
@crumpy10
I use Freecad as it works on Linux/Ububntu
Why not use the CAD program that already are using and are familiar with
@Samuel235
I usually always order more than I need. And as soon as I wonder do I need this - I order from ebay or aliexpress
so I am staring to sort out stuff. I bought a box from Biltema for my electronic stuff
@sky2000
When TI sell a proto MCU board (This is not a product), this is supposed to be used for evaluation and check functionality, that you can use, and when you then incorporate this into your own product, then you must ensure FCC, CE and other legal docs.
There is a line between a product (Product= sell to a consumer) and a module/board that is supposed to be used be an expert to develop a product
@xydix
Arduino using Atmega can supply max 40mA per pin, and in total max 100mA.
DS18B20 seems to use max 1,5mA
so yes this will work
After searching on the net.
https://github.com/nathanchantrell/TinyTX/blob/master/TinyTX_DS18B20/TinyTX_DS18B20.ino
The part for the power on, read, power off is below (taken from the above link):
void loop() {
digitalWrite(ONE_WIRE_POWER, HIGH); // turn DS18B20 sensor on
//Sleepy::loseSomeTime(5); // Allow 5ms for the sensor to be ready
delay(5); // The above doesn't seem to work for everyone (why?)
sensors.begin(); //start up temp sensor
sensors.requestTemperatures(); // Get the temperature
tinytx.temp=(sensors.getTempCByIndex(0)*100); // Read first sensor and convert to integer, reversed at receiving end
digitalWrite(ONE_WIRE_POWER, LOW); // turn DS18B20 off
The DHT22 sensor will also quickly use all your battery power
Replace your NRF24L01+ module, I have had a few that consume too much power, and drain the battery...
@mfalkvidd
This just shows how clever/smart the mysensors code are developed
Hi all,
Status for participants:
9 good guys (aka Respected Honored Members of MySensors Community)
I also vote for Wemos D1 Mini Pro
But I have no intention to use those for battery operation, As the other guys states, only option for low power battery operation is Arduino+ NRF24L01+
Actually a fairly little nice device:
https://www.wemos.cc/product/d1-mini-pro.html
I would in Domoticz use MySensors Gateway USB and point to /dev/ttyMySensorsGateway
did you read the last part of the guide? where Mrfalkvidd specifically added a note for Domoticz , the below is taken from the link you are referring to:
"Enable the gateway for use with Domoticz
Domoticz (and maybe other home automation systems) has trouble reading from the default path created by PiGatewaySerial. You might need to run the following command:
sudo ln -s /dev/ttyMySensorsGateway /dev/ttyUSB20
And change /etc/rc.local from this
exit 0
to this:
ln -s /dev/ttyMySensorsGateway /dev/ttyUSB20
exit 0
"
If this still isn't working for you, then make the standard serial gateway, with Arduino nano+NRF24L01+ (And capacitor on Vcc/GND as close to NRF module as possible) - this is for sure working
I don't have my sketch available, but I used this code below for measuring 2xAA. I have changed #define MIN_V 1900 (milliVolt) since I have disabled BOD, so Arduino runs to 1,8V, bur NRF24L01+ is working down t0 1,9V
NOTE: This is only showing battery measuring, it's not a full sketch...
void loop()
{
#define MIN_V 2700
#define MAX_V 3200
int batteryPcnt = min(map(readVcc(), MIN_V, MAX_V, 0, 100), 100); // Convert voltage to percentage
gw.sendBatteryLevel(batteryPcnt); // Send battery percentage to gateway
}
long readVcc() {
// Read 1.1V reference against AVcc
// set the reference to Vcc and the measurement to the internal 1.1V reference
#if defined(__AVR_ATmega32U4__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega1280__) || defined(__AVR_ATmega2560__)
ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX4) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
#elif defined (__AVR_ATtiny24__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny44__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny84__)
ADMUX = _BV(MUX5) | _BV(MUX0);
#elif defined (__AVR_ATtiny25__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny45__) || defined(__AVR_ATtiny85__)
ADMUX = _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2);
#else
ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
#endif
delay(2); // Wait for Vref to settle
ADCSRA |= _BV(ADSC); // Start conversion
while (bit_is_set(ADCSRA,ADSC)); // measuring
uint8_t low = ADCL; // must read ADCL first - it then locks ADCH
uint8_t high = ADCH; // unlocks both
long result = (high<<8) | low;
result = 1125300L / result; // Calculate Vcc (in mV); 1125300 = 1.1*1023*1000
return result; // Vcc in millivolts
}
You can also measure the pressure, how much pressure to creating air bubbles
Below is written by Benoit Drooghaag (just to ensure I provide credit to the author)
http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/Waterlevel
@enlo
I would assume to drill a hole in the metal chimney that is between the wood boiler and the brick chimney.
then depending of the K-type thermocouple
then there is a nut so you can secure this like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-High-Temperature-100-To-1250-Degree-Thermocouple-K-Type-100mm-Stainless-Steel-Probe-Sensors/32786956791.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.1.LxioyK
Or else you can sealed with special heat resistant seal:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heat-Resistant-Sealant-1250-300ml/dp/B0046450C4
Maybe this is due to a timing issue inside the ATmega328 architecture, after wakeup from sleep, then try to wait 500 micro-sec before you are measuring the voltage
@gohan
Thank you, this will be my approach, then the sketch is the door/windows sensor
Thank you all for input.
I will post pics when project is ready
You can get some inspiration from here:
http://harizanov.com/2014/07/diy-internet-of-things-fire-alarm/
Quote from the above link: "The piezo siren is activated with a 200ms series of 6.5Khz 50% PWM at 9V so I had to create a small voltage divider + a capacitor to smoothen the signal out and bring it to 3V so the Funky v1 can handle it. A 4.7K:10K + 1 uF ceramic capacitor works well"
@flopp
This is the correct way, to sleep and use interrupt for this so you are using interrupt
http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/417/gw-sleep-and-milis
I don't use myself the Mycontroller, but how is the Wemos D1 r1, have you flashed ESPEASY to your Wemos?
MyControllerDevice
IMPORTANT: For now this library supports up to ESP 8266 community version: 2.3.0 If you compile with 2.4.0 or greater version. This code will not work as expected.
Thank you all for a great event - it was nice to meet face-2-face and see who you are. And thank you to Henrik, wife and kids to hos us all
@martim
Good that you replied what made the trick for you, so other can read what to check
Godt Nytår
@kimot said in Nano minimum voltage:
But it do NOT means with 16Mhz crystal on Arduino Nano ...
Well the AtMega328 has an option to use internal RC oscillation and hence don't need to use the 16MHZ crystal.
yes we agree that with low voltage you must use 1MHz, -> 8MHZ div8
From the link I have provided above, read chap 9.6:
Calibrated Internal RC Oscillator
By default, the Internal RC Oscillator provides an approximate 8.0MHz clock. Though voltage and temperature
dependent, this clock can be very accurately calibrated by the user. See Table 29-9 on page 313 for more
details. The device is shipped with the CKDIV8 Fuse programmed. See ”System Clock Prescaler” on page 45
for more details.
This clock may be selected as the system clock by programming the CKSEL Fuses as shown in Table 9-11. If
selected, it will operate with no external components.
And yes it's possible and maybe needed to calibrate the internal RC, that you need to test
And yes you need also to change fuse for BOD (Brown out detection) as this by default close down the ATMega328 below 2.7V
read chap 10.2: BOD Disable
Hi,
For Danish tax authorities there is a difference to "donate" and purchase of a "product".
http://www.skat.dk/skat.aspx?oId=1648476&vId=0)
Provides this text: Du kan få fradrag for fx: Varekøb, dvs. udgifter til varer, som du sælge
My idea is to sell a complete sensor, and provide a donation to Mysensors/Sensnology for each sensor product I will sell.
https://www.openhardware.io/view/56/Mys-Interposer-NRFArduino-Pro-Mini#tabs-instructions
So instead of making a donation, can I then instead purchase a "product" ? I would like to purchase a "mysensors sw protocol" from Sensnology. Maybe this could be done so there will be a button next to donation button, but call it buy SW protocol stack, let me enter the donation amount to pay via paypal, email address, and send me a valid invoice as pdf to my email?
It appears that you during runtime can change prescale, so you should be able to change clock frequency to 8MHz when reading DS18B20 and after reading change clock back to 1MHz
@zboblamont said in Nano minimum voltage:
@arden With so many more efficient boosters available than stock voltage regulators I have to question the wisdom of detuning any device to accommodate the power supply for all but the most extreme requirements.
With the Nano's USB converter constantly sucking power it is the least frugal device of the newer Arduinos, the pro-mini has a wealth of information on reducing sleep load power with LED and VR removed, perhaps a change in approach may be worthwhile ?
Yes I fully agree, but if Arden only have those Nano available, he can use those with extra effort to remove all those not needed current consumption IC's
Well then another approach is not to use DS18B20
Have you checked TMP117 price seems to be 2USD in higher qty, and supply range: 1.8 V to 5.5 V
http://www.ti.com/product/TMP117
And someone have made a lib to Arduino: https://github.com/NilsMinor/TMP117-Arduino
Just wondering why not use Watchdog?, it's supposed to restart MCU when it freese.
The watchdog shall be disabled before entering sleep state and enabled when wake up.
I would recommend to set the watchdog to max time=8seconds. then you only need to clear the wdt every 7 sec
As I recall the default bootloader in Arduino, doesn't have the WDT enabled, so you shall flash Optiboot or similar bootloader
I searched for an example:
https://www.electronicwings.com/arduino/watchdog-in-arduino
@dbemowsk
hi did you check the link I supplied? I rather discuss the topic in domoticz forum, as it could benefit other Domoticz/octoprint userrs
https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14021&p=162935#p162935
but I have installed on the octoprint the mqtt plugin, as my domoticz is also running both mosquitto and node-red, I specify the ip adress for domoticz in setup the broker in octoprint plugin mqtt,
is the D2 pin also connected to the RF module?
@skywatch said in Is it worth it adding a reset circuit to MySensors nodes?:
@bjacobse Good point, but what happens if it freezes during sleep?
It's NOT possible, it's in sleep, it's an integrated part of the IC design, and such a bug would have been found many years ago. The ATmeag328 will go into a well defined state, which is sleep, until it's getting woken up, by an interrupt or a timer.
Naturally the registers are required to be setup up properly
As I wrote, you SHALL disable WDT (watchdog) prior entering sleepmode, and after wakeup then you enable WDT again, else the WDT will reset the Atmega328 while you are in sleeep
ATMeag328 documentation:
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-7810-Automotive-Microcontrollers-ATmega328P_Datasheet.pdf
@sundberg84
Redundancy, maybe you should get a second temp/humidity measurement device, just in case your current beer cooler temp node breaks down...
@mfalkvidd Thanks for the link to the post, I think I should upgrade and use aluminium foil as you done to make a GND shield around the PIR sensor
@sundberg84
Thank you Sundberg for your help, I now have received my own microscope, a reply to your comments from 1 or 2 months ago
I use Domoticz, and this have native support for Mysensors. This means that you don't have think about how it's talking to each other (Protocol), It then uses the serial gateway
You can also install MQTT (and you need a broker too, Mosquitto) so that you can use devices that uses MQTT as protocol.
https://www.domoticz.com/wiki/MQTT#Introduction
It depends on your controller (controller= homeautomation controller)
Is it the conditional operator in C language you mean?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%3F:#C
https://github.com/dkjonas/Wavin-AHC-9000-mqtt
iron and toner transfer, then etched and soldered and finally acrylic spray on cobber so it won't corrode
You can't trust China these days... As many DIY people a few years ago purchased a lot of electronic stuff from China, the counterfeit industry scaled the growth too
If you can take the "original" and program and it's working flawless, and those cheap Chinese ain't working, then assume they are counterfeit...
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9388/atmega328p-au-counterfeit/18
regardless if those are counterfeit or they are production rejects, selling those as "good" and "original" is just not appropriate - this leads to that noone will buy from the "grey area"Chinese suppliers...
And not to prejudiced against China or Chinese people, there are good and untrustworthy people in all countries
Those few IC that we dip in flux, is because they have solderballs on the IC from supplier, the remaining components will have solderpaste on each solderpad in PCB.
We don't "remove" flux, we just forward the PCB on conveyor belts into heating oven (REHM reflow solder oven, with Nitrogen gas, to get better solderability as there will be less oxygen interefering during soldering in oven)
@NeverDie
We don't use conformal coating. But we use hydrofob coating of the whole device, so w avoid water ingress through the plastic box
@MatiasV No-no, you need much more stuff before it will be "average"