Offtopic, but I like your bricks on your house

is the D2 pin also connected to the RF module?

I'm quite lazy, and use this approach and use a USB powerbank, and check if DHCP server is alive or dead (Dead= no 230V)

https://raspi-ups.appspot.com/en/index.jsp

@berkseo congratulations

@malachite666 said in Please help with rspro itx 3d printer:

RSPRO itx printer
It looks like it's a private label name, and the manufacturer is Kora3d, you need to talk to those people and if you can't get any further support, don't waste any more money on this and buy yourself an Iprusa and get support from all the people that owns such a device

https://www.kora3d.com/products/kora-pro-3d-printer-range/kora-pro-3d-pc-printer

@barrydou
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/2262/decoupling-capacitors-what-size-and-how-many

@skywatch
I'm amazed that you made it work, which is good in your case
But in most cases it might not work, and your MCU will crash RAM/stack and you will have troubles to understand what goes wrong.
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/146298/what-happens-when-microcontrollers-run-out-of-ram

So to be on se the safe side for most people, then buy 328 as it from Mouser only cost 1,92€ and the 168 costs1,40€ for the cheapest variant of each, so for a hobbyist this price is nothing compared to the troubles you might have. Naturally if you have production and manufactures thousands devices this price different is extra money in your pocket

I'm sure ATmega 168 have too little memory to be used for run the mysensors code... so don't buy a ATmega168

ATMega 168
Program Memory Size (KB) 16
SRAM (B) 1,024
Data EEPROM/HEF (bytes) 512

ATMega 328
Program Memory Size (KB) 32
SRAM (B) 2,048
Data EEPROM/HEF (bytes) 1024

@Jasonkeel
The green is the flex PCB,, as you can se how it' turn 90degree a few times

Inside Hearing aids, the PCB are "mainly" only flexible PCB as the PCB must bend and follow the mechanical shape, think this picture gives an idea
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1902167/Oticon-Aurora-Minirite-312-T-Rc.html

How does your function work with 5 samples and throws away errors?
Why not take measures until you get 3 or 5 measures that are identical, and then use this as your measurement?

@markjgabb
If you want to run on batteries, which is a good option, then just make a reading every 10sec, and make the MCU sleep and save precious battery. It's not needed to measure each pulse every second

Pseudo code:
wakeup after 10sec
wait until you get a reading, unless you have waited 5 sec (timeout to save battery)
send pulse detection
sleep

@MatiasV No-no, you need much more stuff before it will be "average" ;-)

@alex28 As your critics reads for me as constructive feedback, then I will suggest for you to enable you to get a positive experience (I have been around Mysensors since May 2015) I use it with Domoticz as this is what I like ;-)
Anyway start with simple things, I have my Domoticz on a RPI attached to the serial gateway, it's simple and reliable and "easy" to debug

Make sure the gateway is working on your home automation, and then proceed to make 1 simple windows sensor
https://www.mysensors.org/build/binary

And then you can make additional sensors to your network. Please note that Domoticz is the controller, and hence it's Domoticz that will allow a sensor/node to be "added" to your network. The serial gateway is not having anything to do with "adding" nodes to your network, it's just a "dum" gateway moving data from the sensors to your homeautomations

Any other Homeautomation than Domoticz is equally good, if they have Mysensors support :-)

To make your start easy:

• Don't use ENC28J60 to make a gateway
• Make a serial gateway
  https://www.mysensors.org/build/serial_gateway
• Don't spend too much time on NRF24L01+ as MANY of those are counterfeit China-shit, and you can debug for hours not understanding why your setup isn't working. Replace NRF24L01+ immediately if it ain't working
• Verify that your NRF24L01+ are in good working condition, before using them (if possible). Do you have a friend that have a some known good working NRF24L01+, then borrow a few pieces
• ALWAYS use a capacitor as close as possible to your NRF24L01+ radio modules voltage supply/GND
  https://www.mysensors.org/build/connect_radio#connecting-a-decoupling-capacitor

And then I'm quite sure the Mysensors-community would like if you can support to update the documentation to become better for the next new persons that would like to start using Mysensors, so the frustration that have been around your start can be reduced for the future

@echi Basically it's quite simple, it's the whole device that needs to comply to the rules, and not ONLY the radio-part of your design.
so it's not possible to "buy" a radio approved RF IC and then add this to your own design, and then think this is adequate

@echi Have you checked the price for getting the FCC and radio approvals? it's quite expensive. As it's mandatory to have an independent test company to do actual test on your devices as a part of the documentation. Furthermore you need also to get country approvals (Notified Body) for several countries where you want to sell you product, fortunately as I recall EU only requires approvals in 1 country to be valid in the rest of EU countries.

This link is from 2014, but gives you an idea what kind of approvals that you MUST get prior selling your stuff
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-average-cost-to-get-FCC-and-CE-certification-for-a-very-simple-electronic-gadget?share=1

@skywatch said in Is it worth it adding a reset circuit to MySensors nodes?:

@bjacobse Good point, but what happens if it freezes during sleep?

It's NOT possible, it's in sleep, it's an integrated part of the IC design, and such a bug would have been found many years ago. The ATmeag328 will go into a well defined state, which is sleep, until it's getting woken up, by an interrupt or a timer.
Naturally the registers are required to be setup up properly

As I wrote, you SHALL disable WDT (watchdog) prior entering sleepmode, and after wakeup then you enable WDT again, else the WDT will reset the Atmega328 while you are in sleeep ;-)

ATMeag328 documentation:
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-7810-Automotive-Microcontrollers-ATmega328P_Datasheet.pdf

Just wondering why not use Watchdog?, it's supposed to restart MCU when it freese.
The watchdog shall be disabled before entering sleep state and enabled when wake up.

I would recommend to set the watchdog to max time=8seconds. then you only need to clear the wdt every 7 sec :-)
As I recall the default bootloader in Arduino, doesn't have the WDT enabled, so you shall flash Optiboot or similar bootloader

I searched for an example:
https://www.electronicwings.com/arduino/watchdog-in-arduino