Posts made by gohan

There are also some waterproof ultrasound distance sensors you could use

Agreed, the shielded modules can run at full power without any problem

Rfm69 adapter still requires some soldering

Just use mqtt client

That's still on the cheap side, it is still probably a clone. You can consider going with rfm69 radios, they work better

I think it is more of a BT gateway to connect some of their BT devices

Yes, that was Rev 9, but the sketch would work with anything you have

Never seen a single device using it

Unless they find a way to make a mesh network out of Bluetooth, it will not get much success imho, or you have smart devices like xiaomi that have a Bluetooth gateway on board but that would add more complexity

Yes, I have both radios on the same raspberry.

Did you delete the sensors in domoticz?

Why are you considering zwave not important? Given that an usb zwave dongle it is a quick way to add the functionality, I don't think it would be a good idea to exclude it since there are still a lot of commercial products using it.

I got the same, domoticz and pi hole, but the load of the gateway is minimal

Don't you have another sensor to try?

Do you see any error in the gateway log?

@pierre1410 why do you need 5v? There are pir sensors working at 3v and you can even modify the standard pir sensor to work at 3v

That's fine, just look on instruction on how to build a raspberry gateway

@barrydou I gave a double gateway running on my raspberry both nrf24 and rfm69, still on v. 2.2

I used these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-pcs-LM393-Light-Sensor-Photosensitive-Sensitivity-light-Sensor-Module-For-Arduino-Smart-Car/1729424221.html

5 pcs LM393 Light Sensor Photosensitive Sensitivity light Sensor Module For Arduino Smart Car 3.3 V - 5 V

$2.50

it looks like it is can't find the radio module. Check cables and pins numering

dodgy cable/pin maybe?

there are some projects using esp32 to monitor presence of BLE devices.

@alexsh1 how much did one module cost?

Did it work before on an Arduino board? If you haven't tried and you paid it very cheap it could also be a fake chinese clone that is either bad or not a really nrf24 chip

Personally I like the SHt31 sensors better for outdoor use. With my node I am in 5uA sleep current

I am not sure if the 3.3v output from raspberry is enough to power the nrf24

I found this https://github.com/oneyb/rpi-embed-dev/blob/master/install-mysensors-gateway-raspberry.yaml but I don't know how it can be implemented.

@alaskadiy I'd make a raspberry gateway with radio directly on the raspberry, much cleaner solution

according to the sensor you use, each pulse should wake the node and add a count, then back to sleep.

does the arduino LED flashes bright and fast when it crashes?

I am running nrf24 and rfm69 gateways on the raspberry directly, so I don't have the need for additional hw. I am planning to use the esp32 as a presence detector though

@zboblamont lowering water temperature and pump speed is expected to use less energy, but have you considered the time it takes now to reach the set room temperature compared to what you had before?

Actually I haven't done much. The main problem on the pulse meter was solved by adding a capacitor on the signal out pin to act as a hw debounce

@monte if you can share, pls do so

at that price it is worth to switch to rfm69

Last time I used the FTDI cheap clones I have it was about 2/3 weeks ago and they were still running. I haven't tried them lately so I can't confirm if any new update broke the drivers

SD cards fail faster if you have programs constantly writing to them, I am using dietpi as it has been thought to rely mainly on ramdisk for log and temp files

If you don't want to rely on the RPI, you can still use node to node communication and have a node sending temperature to the relay and when it gets a temperature lower than a certain limit will trigger the heating. You can also use a small attyny as an HW watchdog on the pi that will trigger a hw reset if it doesn't detect a certain condition

It could also be the article is not very new and lately battery technology allows for a bit higher standby voltage... who knows
I don't think 0.1/0.2V would make a huge difference in UPS runtime while on battery

I am no expert, but I suspect it is not charging the battery at full capacity to preserve it for a longer time as it will stay charged for most of the time. Also fast charging on a UPS it is normally not needed, so a slow charge at 0.3A is fine

@phamchien1112 maybe you can also consider this https://shelly.cloud/product/shelly-4pro/ , maybe a little overkill for your needs

Yes, in fact I bought the DPS5015 with its metal box and BT/USB interface and I can control it from the computer. Data logging of course is limited to the values on the screen

you can use one sonoff pow and another sonoff basic, I think you can create rules between devices but I don't use the sonoff app as I already have my home automation setup, so I don't know exactly how to do what you are asking using just the stock firmware and its app

Sonoff 4CH does not have power reading

Actually if you are subscribed to a mqtt topic there is no need to continually ask for data, the broker will send automatically new data to all the subscribed clients as soon as it is received.

But do the nodes increase power as they are moved farther away from the gateway?

I still don't understand the need to measure RSSI on gateway...

Usually it is the controller that holds data and statuses, so it should be the target of your queries. Of course you could use the mqtt broker as a cache for reading values

good, give it a try

It is possible to use battery, just use smartsleep instead of sleep to allow a little extra time for the controller to send the OTA update command and you can also use LiFePO4 batteries that work exactly in that voltage range.

@vladimir what controller are you using? Most home automation controllers like domoticz and Home Assistant have a quick integration with Tasmota or EspEasy

@alowhum said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

I guess not having a regulator on board is what makes the Arduino Pro Micro so good at being battery powered.

actually the better solution is the pro mini at 3.3v with regulator and led removed, and you can use an LDO regulator to power it with a LiPo cell or no regulator at all if you use a LiFePO4 battery. Using the arduino at 3.3v allows you to use all radio modules and all the low power sensors.

There are some rules you can make on the app and it should also keep track of the power usage. If that is not enough for you, you can flash tasmota on the sonoff and use any controller that can use mqtt to get data from the sonoff and control the relay.

I am using raspberry with both nrf24 and rfm69 gateway on it, but I am still version 2.2.0

did you post the nrf5x remote in the nrf5x topic or did you made a new one?

It is not really mysensors related, but i'd get a sonoff pow and you would get pretty much all you are looking for.

sudo ./bin/mysgw -h could work, it only depends in which folder you are running the command from

I get that when another instance of the process is already running

what problem did you have?

@NeverDie do you think a NRF5x would be better solution to make a small compact remote control?

it works the same, of course if you have a HW version you will see TX power % lower compared to a W module. I am not using those functions on the gateway because they are actually more node related

This is how I monitor RSSI and power % from the node: sending RSSI should be close to the RSSI target value set in the config file. I left atc enabled and if I move the node away from the gateway I see the power % going up while RSSI value stays more or less the same.

#ifdef MY_RADIO_RFM69
	rssi = RFM69_getSendingRSSI();             // read RSSI in RFM69. Measure reception signal from gw
	send(msgRSSI1.set(rssi));                  // send RSSI level
	wait(500);                                 // wait to get idle

	rssi = RFM69_getReceivingRSSI();           // read RSSI in RFM69. Wait and measure background noise
	send(msgRSSI2.set(rssi));                  // send RSSI level
	wait(200);                                 // wait for next send

	PwrPcnt = RFM69_getTxPowerPercent();      // read TX Power in RFM69
	send(msgPWR.set(PwrPcnt));				  // send TX Power
#endif

There are also roller shutters nodes running via zwave if you are looking at a retail solution

I was referring to the internal Arduino watchdog

you may need to change the interrupt behavior, but try it first

if node restarts you should see it in the logs of the gateway or the controller

have you been using watchdogs on your sketches?

Did you put a capacitor on the booster output? Led flashing fast constantly it could also be a bootloader problem so you could try any other open bootloader (I have been told that minicore works well)

If you added a mysensors gateway in HA directly I bet the controller sent to the gateway that units are no longer metric but imperial, gw kept the setting and started to work accordingly until you switched back HA to metric. Why are you using node-red in the middle with Domoticz?

@yveaux what graph is that?

Small update after some time running on 2 100F supercaps in parallel

Voltage seems consistent over time

Here you can see the transition from the 5.5v supercaps to the normal ones, the odd thing is that it seems the supercaps took a few days to accept higher charge voltage

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP32-ESP32S-For-Wemos-For-Raspberry-Pi-18650-Battery-Charge-Shield-Board-V3-Micro-USB-Port/32843629344.html

If you see

1635 TSF:MSG:SEND,255-255-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:

It is broadcasting searching for gateway to assign an ID.

Can you post your sketch?

The problem is that temperature alone doesn't cause the freezing. When there is clear sky things on the ground can get 2 or 3 degrees colder than air temperature because of a specific infrared radiation window that is radiating heat into space more than it is absorbing from the atmosphere. That's why a good forecast is normally needed

You forgot the MY_NODE_ID in the node sketch

I'd consider harvesting anything that can store small quantities of energy and then convert them into usable energy. The other project you made with the booster being powered by a small cap is more hervester like
Why do you need to measure the solar intensity?

I am just curious but once you detect the buds have frozen, what are going to do? I am no expert in plants, but I think they can withstand some degrees below freezing for a short time before sustaining damage so it would make it harder to estimate if any damage has been done

This isn't really harvesting, is it? Shouldn't be harvesting the collecting of even the lower voltages to be stored in the supercap?

I couldn't because they are packed together, but it was something I was expecting anyway. I had them completely discharged every now and then when the arduino went crazy and drained them out.

what I meant is that they don't actually go to 0v even if you short them as you will always be able to measure some small voltage. I am no expert but my bet is that that 0.5/0.6v is kind of their bottom line where they don't hold any more useful energy below that.

For balancing there are SAB Mosfets that help to keep all the supercaps on the same voltage, but the reverse charge issue is the same for all series circuits, also LiPo worn out batteries can get to 0V and then getting reverse charged with all the consequent risk of fire.

On the cheap supercaps I have they hold the 0.6v, they don't go to zero

The 1.1v reference could be + or - 10%, but a small ceramic cap on near the analog pin should help to stabilize the reading. Also taking 3 measures and then sending the average is a good way of minimizing errors

No idea really, the box was sealed. I suspect they might have gotten unbalanced. About charge cycles I don't think they were a problem since they probably had less than 400 (1 cycle a day). They were cheap Chinese parts, so poor quality for sure given the self discharge rate they had. Given the cost of a LiFePO4 battery compared to supercaps, I think I'm going to take the battery route and ditch the whole solar power. I have an identical node running on a single AA LiFePO4 and in 8 months it barely discharged even if it is sending 4 values every 10 minutes

Ok, after almost a year 3 out of 5 5.5v supercaps started leaking... Rip

The send function returns a value, so you can check if it was successfully sent or not and in case retry

Is an esp8266 powerful enough for a bme680?

@korttoma if you have a library that can read the values from the sensor, you can easily add the mysensors code

you are at the limit of the radio range I'd say so randomly it looses a message, so you need to either increase power or get a better antenna (I hope you aren't using any buck/boost converter as power supply)

Maybe next time you could add a flash chip for Ota firmware and use I2C sensors to make wiring a lot simpler. You may consider using one of the many pcb available on openhardware.io to shrink down the size of that node

If you have your node close to the relay, you could install one of those mains voltage detectors to have a feedback on the status

Have you tried with a debouce? Just in case...

@neverdie so will it be able to run mysensors also in sleep mode? I got lost with all those chip codes

pls post the code that is not working

Have you tried another controller like mycontroller?

the problem is knowing what kind of gases are relased during print and have matching sensors.

Try a normal radio on gateway instead of the PA lna

Why would you want to use the 5v arduino on batteries?

Can't you just use the arduino ide serial monitor?

You can do it on the gateway at least

Comment the my_debug and try again