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    Topics created by kolaf

    • kolaf

      Gateway freezes again
      Troubleshooting • • kolaf  

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      kolaf

      @DavidZH i have thought the same, but that software is an very simple script. Still, you might be right.
    • kolaf

      Tolerate radio failure
      General Discussion • • kolaf  

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      Yveaux

      @kolaf said: give it a separate network ID Better use a different channel. When using different network ID's on the same channel, the networks still have to compete for bandwidth. When using different channels, they will not interfere.
    • kolaf

      Trouble sleeping
      General Discussion • • kolaf  

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      kolaf

      I have a generic multi meter, but I was not able to measure the current with this. I'm not sure why, I put it between the battery and the final connection terminal of the battery compartment.
    • kolaf

      RFM69 moteino serial gateway freezes
      Troubleshooting • • kolaf  

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      mfalkvidd

      The cable probably has a built-in 1 port USB hub then (actually two hubs if it is according to the specs since the maximum cable length between two usb hubs also is 5m). However, the cable will probably not be able to provide full power unless the cable also has a separate power supply.
    • kolaf

      Testing development branch with RF69HW is not working as it should
      Troubleshooting • • kolaf  

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      kolaf

      A simple thing you can do in RFM69Transport is to increase the retry count for the messages that are sent. The default value is 2 (implicit), to increase this by changing the following: return _radio.sendWithRetry(to,data,len); to return _radio.sendWithRetry(to,data,len, 5); To have it retry five times. My guess is that this will greatly increase the operation time of your network.
    • kolaf

      Minding the robot
      My Project • • kolaf  

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      kolaf

      Simple. We share our locations through Google, so we always can see where each other are
    • kolaf

      Multiple interrupts
      General Discussion • • kolaf  

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      GreyGnome

      Hello, GreyGnome here. Glad to see the library is helping you. Sorry to see you had to edit code. In the next upcoming release I will include compiler directives that allow you to comment out conflicting interrupts. Also, as someone else mentioned- don't use attachInterrupt() together with EnableInterrupt(). It just makes the code fatter, and EnableInterrupt() can already cover both interrupt types; eg on an Arduino Uno: enableInterrupt(2, myFunkyExternalInterruptFunction, LOW); enableInterrupt(10, myExcellentPinChangeInterruptFunction, CHANGE); ...note that enableInterrupt will use External interrupts on pin 2 by default. You can force it to use pin change interrupts: enableInterrupt(2 | PINCHANGEINTERRUPT, myFunkyExternalInterruptFunction, FALLING); ...in which case, "myFunkyExternalInterruptFunction" is something of a misnomer. ALSO NOTE: Pin Change Interrupts do not support the LOW state!
    • kolaf

      Hacking a water timer
      My Project • • kolaf  

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      kolaf

      @Moshe-Livne I agree that a floating valve would be a better solution if you had a fixed installation. This would allow you to keep the water on at all times and have the water barrel top itself off continuously. We have such a system, but it is a pain to run the pipes to everywhere the horses need the water, especially in winter when it's freezing. This means we have one of these, but the rest are filled using a regular hose. The implemented solution works well for having a hose lying around and stretching it to wherever we need to fill the buckets without wasting water or ruining the area by getting too wet. This has happened several times already, and not only was it a pain to clean up, but it also emptied our well so we had to go down and manually restarted everything by filling the system with water. In short, it is a failsafe system to guard against our own forgetfulness with a great deal of flexibility
    • kolaf

      Using OpenHAB, any better (looking) alternatives?
      OpenHAB • • kolaf  

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      kolaf

      Sorry, I used the native mysensors support, not mqtt.
    • kolaf

      Multiple buttons, one interrupt
      General Discussion • • kolaf  

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      Sparkman

      @kolaf Also, Google pinchageint which is a library that I believe allows for more interrupts.. Cheers Al
    • kolaf

      Board design request
      Hardware • • kolaf  

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      No one has replied

    • kolaf

      Powering sensors through the digital pins?
      Hardware • • kolaf  

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      djdworks

      I'm usually doing this test for each and every sensor i bought and I can confirm that many of them can work without problems. Sensors like DHT seems to need a delay(500), before call the sensor read function, in order to let him "boot-up" otherwise you will experience communication errors. Sensors connected to analog input, like soil humidity, will not give correct measurement, if the precision is not your must is possible to use pin powering, Pay attention on the max current required for the sensor, if you exceed that the Arduino will be damaged. Measure it before to connect! Radio cannot be powered by digital pin (too much current during transmission). Arduino has also a maximum total current that normally can never be exceeded, special attention to be given if you use radio with PA antenna!
    • kolaf

      Battery powering options
      Hardware • • kolaf  

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      Zeph

      The title is about batteries, but the subject of using cheap phone chargers has come up. Small note: Whenever I refer to "the regulator" below, I'm talking about the onboard regulator of the arduino variant you are using, not to any regulator chips inside the phone charger. Just to be very clear. Safety: If you ARE going to use cheap phone chargers, at least buy several and crack one open to look at the isolation on the PCB. (look at the pics on some web sites that have done this to get an idea what you are looking for) Then always unplug it before working on the sensor node - use an alternate high quality supply while programming and testing, Just In Case. And don't have any exposed conductors on your finished node, that could be touched. I would avoid the most compact ones with little room inside the case. And you might want to test the temperature of the charger under load before deciding to use a given model. Power quality. At least measure the output with a voltmeter, under the loads you use. If you try to run a 5V arduino (eg: APM = Arduino Pro Micro) from a 5V charger you could have problems (you must test). If you use Vin, you will likely have problems because there isn't enough voltage differential for regulation, a condition known as dropping out of regulation or drop-out. There are regulators with low drop out (LDO) specs that require less difference between input and output voltage, but those specs vary depending on the regulator and load. The ATMega chips have a lot of slack, so a 16 Mhz chip will probably still run fine if the output of the regulator is, say, 4.5v or maybe 4.0 volts so the voltage drop may not be critical. But the regulator may not be keeping the supply as stable when in drop-out - varying the voltage as load changes or passing through variations in the supply voltage (coming from a cheap charger). So you may be tempted to just feed the charger 5v into the arduino's VCC=5V pin. That may work, but (1) some regulators don't like having power applied to their output pin only, so check that it doesn't overheat or remove it, and (2) the regulation on cheap chargers can sometimes be very bad - either off-voltage or with a lot of ripple and noise. Some are better than others. Expect the cheap ones to usually get flakey in these regards well under their nominal supply (eg: a charger which says 1A might work well only up to half that). And they may be poor even at low current. If you have a scope you can look at it (being careful about isolation and safety). If you have a 3.3v arduino, you can probably feed the charger's 5v signal into its Vin and get a reasonably well regulated VCC=3.3v. WIth the above qualifiers, some cheap chargers work fine in the right situation. Of course, you should instead get a high quality power supply for each node. One problem is knowing that it is indeed a high quality supply - just paying more isn't a perfect predictor of that. Using a name brand may help, but there are plenty of reports of problems with name brand suppies too (tho we hope they are statistically less common). And a good supply may sometimes cost more than the node (3.3v APM = $3.50, nRF24L01+ = $1, dht-11 = $1, power supply = $10?)
    • kolaf

      Updating node firmware using RadioHead
      Development • • kolaf  

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      ToSa

      Nice! I'll have a look at the details later - thanks for the link! From a brief first look it appears that they can't fit the code into the bootloader which is why the main firmware downloads the new firmware to an external flash first and then the bootloader picks it up from the external flash and loads it into the internal flash. I personally don't like that approach for two reasons: need for additional hardware on every node just for OTA bootloading (external flash) less fail-save: with the bootloader executing the download you can always refresh a node even if the actual firmware has a bug that prevents it from working properly (worst case with a power-cycle to activate the bootloader). With the main firmware executing the download you would need to connect an ISP and locally program either the external flash memory or the AVR directly.
    • kolaf

      The best way to connect to OpenHAB
      OpenHAB • • kolaf  

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      tboha

      @JimmyH : Yes, it is easy to swap bindings as well as controller. Easy - but it requires some labour. This labour is not complex, it just has to be done. In my specific setup it takes approximately 1-2 minutes per device. If you are using the serial binding in OpenHab it is tempting to perform some processing within the nested case statements (like I did). Retrospectively this was a really bad idea. I think it is a better idea to limit the use of these statements to dispatch the incoming data to the chosen Items - and nothing more. I had a hard time to get used to the functions of OpenHab ".rules" but at last it was worth the effort. Transfer every processing step into separate rules - it will make things easy. In an ideal scenario to switch between serial and MQTT (either serial or over Ethernet) you pull your USB-plug, activate your broker and you are done. Due to laziness and little other reasons I'm stuck with an inhomogeneous system resulting in the work mentioned in the beginning - it is tedious but i leads to the desired results.
    • kolaf

      Porting MySensors to work with the RadioHead library
      Development • porting radiohead • • kolaf  

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      luisgcu

      Hello folks. There is any plan to include into mysensors the LoRa RFM95 ,96? I am currently testing one those modules at 433mhz with RadioHead library. I had conducted some test in suburban environment and getting around 1.8 miles range. I pretend to apply this for remote water pump control monitoring in farms. I still want to try the rfm69 and see how much range I can cover . Any advice will be highly appreciated. Regards
    • kolaf

      Getting started, where to begin?
      General Discussion • • kolaf  

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      Yveaux

      @kolaf said: Why is this very difficult? It all depends on your (software) skills of course, but currently the MySensors sensor class is implemented as a derived class from the NRF24 class. Probably the easiest way to implement this for your radio would be to emulate the NRF24 interface in the driver for your radio. Only change required for MySensors would be to derive from your new class instead of NRF24. The NRF24 interface is quite stable while MySensors still changes now and then...