My Project

I plan to use also a CR123 for my board. I bought some CR123a rechargeable on ebay but the battery give me 4V when it's charged... is it a problem to give 4V to a 3.3V step up converter? is the "a" after CR123 say that's a 3.7V instead of a 3V or is it just because of the rechargable function? is your CR123 give also 4V when it's charged? Thank's so much Julien

Thanks all for yoruba replies! I also read about mysensors cloud, maybe this is something for me instead of Nimbits. Ill keep you posted here if I get some where whit the Nimbits question.

I prefer we close this thread, for another one exist... http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/291/dust-sensor-1-4/9

I have added a device editor to the server. It uses the sensor types as a group and the sensor variable as the control. Group (sensor): [image: mysensors_device_group.png] Control (sensor variable): [image: mysensors_edit_control.png] This will be my last post here because my controller has got it's own controller page :)

Hi again I think so to, here is the new code. Scene_Controller_6_buttons_and_5_Relays.ino I reduced the relays to 3, and all the devices is in vera, but the relay status update is stile slow / not happing The scene controller has now child id = 0 and the relays 1-3.

Very Cool -- Thanks

@Bandra Looks fairly simple, maybe its time to upgrade to 1.4

Aha, i'll look deeper! Thankyou very much!

@naveen I mean something like this (please forgive my bad 3D CAD skills ;-) ) [image: upload-9a3fd51b-8341-487c-a07d-ce22fe918392.png] Green = rotational mount plate of servo Red = screw head Yellow = screws The green plate rotates, the gray profile rotates with it and rotates the screw... Could work...

@BulldogLowell that's a rational possibility. I have the sensors on the secondary Vera. Both Vera (what's the plural of Vera :-) ) show the same illogical numbers however. This morning I've managed to get then all reporting different numbers now. I reset the three operating nodes at the same time (they are all battery operated so I brought then all to one place) and at the same time reloaded the secondary Vera. When I moved the nodes back where they belong on the next reporting cycle everything appears to make sense ... I'm not getting the same numbers any longer. It looks like "things got wound up around the axle" somehow and a little electroshock therapy was in order.

@korttoma said: Just thought I would mention that there is a Ping sensor plugin available for Vera incase you did not know. It should have all needed features for occupancy sensing. http://apps.mios.com/plugin.php?id=1228 Awesome, thanks! I will try it out. Quickly realized that the iPhone won't connect when in sleep mode, so its not really a good home/away detector.

@tannewt said: Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 3.3V/8MHz $9.95 ~3.5$ on ebay RHT03 Temp/Humidity $8.96 ~4.3$ on ebay

@steets250 said: Instead of storing raw codes, you could also try using pronto codes for some of your IR devices. The pronto codes will take up less space than the longer raw codes. First, the long form Pronto codes and the irRemote library raw buffer both use 2 byte values to store on and off times, so they should in most cases be approximately the same length (Pronto codes have 8 bytes of additional header). (Of course if you stored Pronto codes in hex format they'd be much longer). And in order to use irRemote to send the pulses, it will need the raw buffer values in its expected format. I suspect one could translate stored Pronto codes into raw values in the sensuator node before calling the library, but if the Pronto code is no shorter, why not simply store the raw codes instead? It might even be possible to modify the irRemote library to send values using timing directly from PROGMEM, and not even need the RAM to buffer the raw codes (when only sending).

@epierre said: yes this is my idea but I'm unsure about having the raspi writing to serial port ? I think on RPI, you can just do a echo "Message" > /dev/ttyAMA0. See also Serial port programming.

@gregl said: Cool project! Just to chuck in some other ideas... Replace existing pot ( is it stereo? ) with http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/SPIDigitalPot https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10613 Replace existing pot with a motorised one..http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPS-Remote-Motor-Volume-Potentiometer-Control-Adjustment-4CH-50KA/321428122915 ( or similar) you could probably salvage one of these from an old stereo system...many in the late 80's /90''s had these.... Good thread here: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=143271.0 Keep us posted! Thanks for the ideas! Replacing the existing pot is probably the simplest thing and what my original plan was...until I realized that the knob and board don't come apart. WAF-wise I don't want this thing to be unusable for the foreseeable future. I think I'm still leaning towards the pot in parallel (for its simplicity) or the servo....but the servo will be quite bulky to the little switch! I'll post some pictures when I get a chance to clear up what exactly I'm trying to do

@jpaulwhite to where are you sending this message? Can you explain what you are trying to do?