Hardware

It all depends if it is mission critical stuff, otherwise just keep a spare rpi and an arduino board pre-programmed that you can easily swap.

@alexsh1 veml6070 works nice. that's a while i've done this ulpnode board. finally i've done my coincell multisensors for indoor. And now, for lot of sensors etc i use more powerful mcu. That said i have a weather extension board with lot of sensors including the veml6070. will try to release when i'have time ;)

Wow, yes I am, thanks a lot!!

Oops. My bad. I thought I listed the sensor. I was looking at the BMP180 on the atmospheric pressure sensor build page. It looks like the BMP280 also has a +- 1 hPa absolute accuracy. Maybe I could take advantage of the better relative accuracy and sample pressure when the furnace is both running and not. The not running pressure would give me a good baseline.

The comparison has been done many times - just browse the forum or google it. Basically, if you are looking for stability and range, I'd recommend going for rfm69 nrf24l01+ is great too, much cheaper, but be prepared to face (a) fake transceivers and hence RF issues (2) power issues (3) range issues. Sometimes, one has to spent a lot of time to make them work sadly.

Hi :) does anyone know where i actually find the FT531IA? on aliexpress there are only FT531EA with output of 2.5V :(

@mfalkvidd plus a voltage regulator so i can plug the vcc directly into VIN for more current.

@Nca78 My colleague bought a box of 18 cr123a on Amazon branded keenstone for 26€

@sundberg84 I'll consider it thanks! The price is higher of course but still in the affordable range. You see, personally I find useless to collect data that is inaccurate even if it is cheap. I have been playing with the DHT11 because I found it in the arduino starter kit I bought last year, so for prototyping is ok, but for a real application I'd prefer more accuracy and reliability :)

For the moment, the lib doesn't support multiple transport (rfm69, rs485 etc.) at same time. Also, important side not, i don't think a Nano is enough powerful for doing this, flash nor ram..maybe i'm wrong ;)

I dont think the solution is what you wanted, if the arduino fails, you will not be able to turn the light on. It is good only to be able to override switches and turn lights off. I would like to come up with a full solution instead...

@Nca78 said: @รอเรือ said: I decided to test all my 20 sensors and found out that 3 out of 20 actually could power down. Starting the tedious work to un-solder the radios of the remaining sensors now. Using the link in the store, I ordered 30 new from Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/400594940658?rmvSB=true This vendor state that their radios will consume 1 uA in sleep mode. I will test all of them at arrival. I believe it's a bit more safe to buy radios on Ebay because it's easy to complain if something shouldn't work as expected. Cheers! Is it too late for you to open a dispute ? With pictures of your multimeter showing current for "normal" module and current for "failing" module + text explanations, it should be possible to get most of your money back. Also, put an evaluation about the radio. If like many people you put many stars before testing the product, you can still add additionnal feedback, that will be useful for the next users who will be tempted to buy from this seller. Hi! Unfortunately I did my review before testing them in sleep mode. I won't do that next time for sure. I will see if I can make an additional review. I have no hope to regain any money from them though. Thanks for the tip.

So my current transformers just came. I would like to build the circuit for this and I have one question. For the burden resistor and the voltage divider resistors, can I use 1/8 watt resistors or would I be better with 1/4 watt or higher?

@GertSanders Thanks a lot!

Mac OS X Sierra driver Working also with Mac OS, but Sierra crashes and here is link for working driver

Sparkfun also sells a breakout board and has a hookup guide, https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/rfm69hcw-hookup-guide

Thanx guys ! I ordered a ADXL345 digital three-axis acceleration of gravity tilt module on ali to see what this will do with such small measurements. stumbled upon this via one of Wallyllama's links : https://tc1seismometer.wordpress.com/2012/06/18/tc1-vertical-seismometer-plans/ Seems easy enough to have some fun with as well.

@PaulD One option is to use a voltage divider, to get the voltages down to 2,5/5V, and then design a schmitt trigger, to convert the 2.5/5V to 0/5V output swing. For schmitt trigger design you could have a look at http://www.aaabbb.de/NonInvertingSchmittTrigger/NonInvertingSchmittTrigger_en.php Another option, is to have a virtual ground at 6V, that you connect your arduinos ground pin to.. (It can not share the same powersupply as the PIR sensors then). The arduino will then see a voltage swing of 0-6V (Can be limited with a resistor / zener diode on the input on the arduino). The virtual ground can be created with a simple resistor divider, between GND and 12V line of the pir sensor. I would probably go for option 1, as it allows you for detecting if the PIR sensor is online (is there 6V on the signal pin?) and trigger another pin, in case it disappears.