Hardware

Tried ir, but no change.. Serial0 was still used while serial1was defined

@nikgru extensive teardown of the lamp (German, but you know how to translate) : https://m.heise.de/make/artikel/Ikea-Tradfri-Das-steckt-im-Smart-Home-aus-dem-Moebelhaus-3597295.html?wt_ref=http%3A%2F%2Fhackaday.com%2Fblog%2F&wt_t=1486396685063

Thanks for the link. Still not cheap (1.44" for $12) but at least not outrageous like the Adafruit.

@derrij The console paramter needs to be removed completely. You cannot use the uart for domoticz and as serial console at the same time. https://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/recipes/terminate.console.on.serial

They're an interesting option in special use cases. Eg. I mounted a sensor on my flat building janitor's storage room. I wanted to know if she comes daily as agreed and if so, how long does it take for her to clean the staircase. The RFM69 modules didn't worked so I switched to RFM96 which struggles to get the signal through 2 floors and on the other side of the building where I placed my gateway. And this while using RFM95_BW31_25CR48SF512. It works, but if I were at the 3rd floor, I'm sure it wouldn't have worked. Next thing I want to monitor the status of the water pumps that are in a special room beneath ground and also on the opposite side of the building. And I'm pretty sure that the RFM95 will not make it there unless directional antennas or repeaters are involved.

I desoldered the 201 resistor, found that easier than cutting the trace. Works great.

@Viktor-Zeman The Sensebender gateway is not intended for wifi use, as we already have solutions for that using the ESP8266 native mysensors build. It can use USB or ethernet..

@tbowmo great answer! I agree, you are right, it has no sense to change frequency in my case. I want to measure temperature each few minutes and than sleep ...

Good to know and good to hear. Have fun with your projects!

thanks for your answer ;) it's a good news because i've allready made the pcb for the module ^^ [image: mini_521575IMG1212.jpg]

Hello, I also precise that first I didn't use a level shifter to reduce 5V Arduino to 3,3V for RFM69W pins. Thus when I tried again, I used new RFM69W chips.

Thanks @nick-van-alst for asking and @tbowmo for answering. I've added info on the bootloader at https://www.mysensors.org/view/1

@naviathan You should present each child sensor as it own type, that is: child sensor id -> type 1 -> S_TEMP 2 -> S_HUMIDITY 3 -> S_BAROMETER and then use the correct V_ types for transmitting the different sensor types.

[image: 1485424008773-img_20170125_205415.jpg] Not so fancy but this is how I did. It will do for now. This is the 5V pin under the USB connector. Now I get 5V directly from my USB power supply.

@hek So the IRQ pin is connected to the Arduino D2? AH nvm i checked the schematic and found it, thanks! will try this!

I saw this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Light-Intensity-Sensor-Module-BH1750FVI-Stable-For-Arduino-TW-/131903322284?hash=item1eb60cf8ac:g:t1MAAOSwV0RXqVe9 This one looks better for outside use I think, because the sensor itself is more protected for water.

@mfalkvidd Thank you, I guess I will use the ESP then. Or perhaps I will try to write a script to use MQTT with the serial gateway... why add another network layer (WiFi) if you don't have to...