General Discussion

Welcome to the MySensors community @garnser ! The getting started guide has good recommendations to get you started. The ir example lists which parts you'll need for ir communication. The motion detection example lists which parts you'll need to detect motion. I suggest you read the entire getting started guide, since it most likely will save you a lot of time. The forum has lots of extended discussion on both ir and motion, but I recommend that you start small and get the basic examples working before you extend. If anything is unclear, just ask away :)

OK, issue reported: https://github.com/NodeBB/nodebb-theme-persona/issues/244

@Cliff-Karlsson I use active beam detector. Power is needed on both sides though but if that is an issue you can always use mirror on the other side. In my experience these things are very sensitive in short ranges (below 5m). More expensive models let you adjust trigger time too.

@moskovskiy82 , it makes sense. Glad you ruled it out!

You just don't connect it. That's all :) The MySensors nrf code does not use the interrupt so there is no code to remove.

long previousMillis = 0; // will store last time something happened long interval = 5000; // interval at which to blink (milliseconds) void loop() { unsigned long currentMillis = millis(); if(currentMillis - previousMillis > interval) { // save the last time something happened previousMillis = currentMillis; Insert your code here... } } Note millis() does not work if you are using gw.sleep()

@Lawrence-Helm said: Another idea would be, a mysensors network strength scanner, something like http://hackaday.com/2016/02/24/quickie-wifi-scanner/ That would be cool. It could be based on http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/242/wireless-nrf24l01-sniffer-for-mysensors/81?page=1

Maybe these threads will guide you one or two steps further: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/486/my-2aa-battery-sensor http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2210/battery-sensor-measure-for-li-ion-cells http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2866/battery-percentage-help-needed

Simply because I am not good at all in "coding" or writing sketches. I would have to hope someone else creates the exact sketch that I need. I saw some video where someone showed of the sensor and some "simple" code. There where alot of arrays involved and you had to write some half complicated "algoritms" to translate the different arrays of temperatures into "persons" to detect.

You can charge a battery, of course..... A small dynamo will do the job.

@ahmedadelhosni Its still wery new and the implementation is based on dimmer. This way you can get options from 0 to 100 and also its the reason the selector has separate on/off switch. The problem is the mobile app. It just dont have proper implementation yet to show selector as buttons or dropdown.

You. Will. Get. To. That. Pin. GET THERE YOU AWKWARD PIECE OF COPPER! My eyes often hurt before my brain, my brain just goes into self combustion without warning, no pain or anything, just a huge explosion and a bright ball of flames.

As far as the device receiving the sensor's signals, could they be received by something like this Sensor Shield? or is it better to handle the receive of sensor data by the RPi? Or is this more of a preference kind of situation? I was thinking of using the shield for the heating elements/lighting arduino at minimum, but if its better to have the driving arduino receive the information and then send relevant sensor data to the RPi for the database part...right now I've been thinking of the RPi recieving the sensor data and then talking to the heater/light arduino when changes/adjustments need to be made (the RPi will be the master of the l2C connection between them anyway.) @hayduke Well, the temp/humidity will likely be different enough from the room's temp/humidity to matter to the beings inside the vivarium (I actually have run my apartment's thermostat while I was fixing some heating arrangements to keep him whithin a healthy range...wasn't something I want to do long-term.) I may just run a long wire from the sensor to the nano, either using some single pins of cat5e I have lying around (since it would have a plastic sheathe already) or put it in some heat shrinkwrap. I went looking for electronics coating materials and I'm probably going to grab a couple to see which work best. From what I can tell, as long as I ensure the humidity sensor's input location stays 'clean', it should protect all the rest of the circuitry from the water mist. They'll be physically protected pretty well from direct watering but the floating water droplets that get in the little enclosure...I want to limit the chance of their damage. I will definitely be providing lots of pictures of the build :) I'm always big on credit where credit is due. @epierre As to the lights, I finalized my choice and thus had to make some changes in what I'll be ordering as they're 12vdc; 60W for the daylight circuit and 30W for the moonlight circuit. Thus, FET from what my research turned up and I found a board with 4 channels of IRF540-type power FET. The ones I'm going with are 'full spectrum' 80+ CRI (the 95+CRI ones I was eyeballing weren't flexible with lengths shorter than they advertised which would have run me about 1.5x as much as I'm already shelling out for these lights.) If they don't end up meeting the PAR of the plants, there's room for me to put a light in to supplement them. Just have to make sure they are atleast moderately easy on the eyes- full grow-tier lights would make the vivarium strange and really mess up the snake's senses since reptiles take cues off certain wavelengths as well (which was my driving point of getting a medium/high CRI lighting fixture in the first place.) I've also got a local electrician who will handle a chunk of the mains-wiring and hopefully be able to double check that I have everything properly protected against surges/shorts. I also found a 4 channel phase-control board for the ceramic heaters. Running the numbers to make sure they will work; I'm probably goign to skip the 200W CHE and switch to something like 3 or 4 CHEs of lower wattages so I can do a more even heat. Probably a 150W in a corner with rocks for a basking spot and then two 100W out another 8 and 16 inches out for moderate ambiant heat. Sanity check, 4 of the SI7021's (such as this SI7021 can be wired and controlled by one nano? Or do I need one nano for each sensor?

Seattle (https://www.linkedin.com/in/jcoliz // https://github.com/maniacbug) and Newport Hills Park (https://issuu.com/cascadebicycleclub/docs/courier03_15_r9) are in a really near distance to each other. So it could be his Linkedin account :)

Thanks for the explanation of inclusion mode. Much appreciated. I thought some of the gateway sketches did allocate node id's....but that for some reason the MQTT Client gateway didn't. No big deal....I don't want to use a 3rd party controller, so will just hard code the id's for now.

Yes.

There is several alternatives in aliexpress to the memory @Anticimex posted above, SPI interface, same pin distribution, only change the memory capacity and voltage input. (and good prices)

Hi @SandeshHs94, welcome to MySensors :-) No changes are required for most examples No changes to the gateway is required when adding more sensors (unless you use signing with white listing). The gateway only forwards data to your controller, it does not care about what sensors it forwards data for. Yes, but only if you are running the development branch The API documentation is available here: http://www.mysensors.org/download/sensor_api_15

Thank you.