I'm afraid you're not going to get many answers to your question if you provide not more information...
type of heat pump, manufacturer
what are the current possibilities of controlling this heat pump
photo's
electric schema's
...
Try to give as much as possible (technical) information...
I liked domoticz (was very easy to set up and use). Together with dzVents scripting wasn't that difficult either. But I also had some problem with it lately, so I was actually thinking about switching to openhab (2).
@Samuel235 said in Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module:
OMRON G3MB-202P
Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component.
I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection.
I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ).
The most important information is the melting integral.
The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia.
So we need any further information about:
the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses)
the melting integral from the device which we want to protect
the maximum voltage
the maximum switching current
the breaking capacity
Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know)
Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are:
from 25 to 100 A²s
230 V AC
16 A
So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values:
230 V AC
2 A maximum switching current
I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s
the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here)
The fuse have to be:
I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection
rating voltage over 230 V AC
rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A)
a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time.
And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available.
If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2).
And the temperature fuse can work for all components too
So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01.
I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?
Hi again
I think so to, here is the new code.
Scene_Controller_6_buttons_and_5_Relays.ino
I reduced the relays to 3, and all the devices is in vera, but the relay status update is stile slow / not happing
The scene controller has now child id = 0 and the relays 1-3.
@Alphalove
I highly recommend itead products, especially for those just getting into MySensors. They remove alot of the pitfalls that electronic noobs (such as myself) encounter when building their first sensor nodes. I used the RMini to build my first relay and it could not have been easier. Many of the troubleshooting problems posted on the forum have to do with setting up relays and these boards eliminate many of those issues.
I also recommend the nano shield from itead to any entry level electronics noobs for setting up early sensor nodes who are not ready for intricate soldering. It provides a nRf socket and a power jack and breaks out all of the nano pins with individual power and ground headers. Just plug in a nano and nRf and program from USB and power the entire setup through a single jack - perfect for beginners.
