@mfalkvidd
I finally got it to work. Look at my post on the Home Assistant forum.
There is an amazing thing that someone in the MySensors world did that makes RPi I/O very easy! Just like the Arduino, one uses the code:
pinMode(MphysicalPin, OUTPUT);
I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw that. And then got double flabbergasted when I discovered that pin is the physical pin of the RPi! No mapping of GPIOi to the pins.
Whew!
So the I/O was easier than both of us could have imagined! @mfalkvidd if you know who did this, send them praise and thanks.
OSD
I would think that it's the ambient air temperature that affects how much condensate you collect, together with how much fuel was burned. After the initial warm-up that gets you to steady state, wouldn't the efficiency be constant?
If the acidity is a problem, you can run the condensate over a bed of acid neutralizing rocks before it goes down your main drain. It's a thing.
I just tested 2 led types with no flicker on my attiny circuit.
It is funny, the expensive leds like from philips: Dimmable 3.8W Warm White have a flickering behavior .
A cheap one available in Action from LSC 6.3W, Dim to Warm and 460 Lumen has no flickering behavior.
Another one from Osram Par 1650: 5.5W Dimmable Warm White, 350 Lumen also has no flickering.
The philips has the best Energy savings though : 4kWh compared to 7kWh for the LSC one.
Is there a relation between energy savings and dim quality ?
@Doggie said in New user has questions:
I have found a solution for my doorbell problem. Its name is "RFLink". I think RFLink is known in the "wireless sensor community". On the RFLink Website is a list of supported devices and my doorbell (Silvercrest) is on the list. RFLink seems to be the better system (sorry).
@isded from what is explained in this page it seems it is based on the Semtech SX1278 :
https://www.makerfabs.com/sx1278-lora-module-433m-10km-ra-02.html
