💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors
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@Nca78 that's why I added the option without boosters. The only downside is that it's not that easy changing bod. When you get the booster function to work you can also run a motion dec in 3.3v for example. 3.3v will give you more sensor options.
@sundberg84 That is one of the nice things about your board is it's flexibility.
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@Nca78 that's why I added the option without boosters. The only downside is that it's not that easy changing bod. When you get the booster function to work you can also run a motion dec in 3.3v for example. 3.3v will give you more sensor options.
@sundberg84 said in 💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:
@Nca78 that's why I added the option without boosters. The only downside is that it's not that easy changing bod. When you get the booster function to work you can also run a motion dec in 3.3v for example. 3.3v will give you more sensor options.
Well, it is pretty easy IMHO, you just have to follow on of the many tutorials, and you learn a lot on the way :)
For motion detection isn't a booster a bad idea ? You can use AM312 anyway, very small and very stable, no soldering necessary to run it down to 2.7V meaning you can use most of the capacity of a lithum cell like CR123.@dbemowsk thanks for the information I didn't even know about this sensor, looks like a very precise one with a very low power consumption. Can you link to where you bought it from I see nothing below 4$ on aliexpress ?
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@sundberg84 said in 💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:
@Nca78 45 uA will last me a long time. On my dht nodes I aim for <100uA so if you sleep between readings that's ok. If this circuit would be much better than these cheap eBay boosters I'm happy even if they run at a couple of more uA
Will let you know if I find oscilloscope funder 😉
But I still fail to see the interest of all the pain with the boosters and keeping the DHT22 which need "high" voltage of 3.3V when a sht21/si7021 is 3$ or less on aliexpress and can run way over 1 year with a simple cr2032 ? And if you use 2 AA it will run for 5 years. No problem with noise/stability, no booster to buy, just a 0.x$ big capacitor to add in parallel with the battery if you're using a CR2032 (and nothing if you're using 2 AA/AAA).
@Nca78 said in 💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:
when a sht21/si7021 is 3$ or less on aliexpress
The thing is that when people start with mysensors and arduinos, none of these are listed on Store page, so using them would be experimenting basically. And experimenting before you have even begun anything is a bit masochistic. At least in my case that is how I was thinking, so I ordered several of dht22, not really knowing that there are better/efficient alternatives. Maybe we can get those sensors in the store page, perhaps mention them on the examples page, noting that they are more efficient?
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I went for the BME280, a little expensive, but it uses I2C and can be run from 1.71 volt to 3.3 volt.
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@sundberg84 said in 💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:
@Nca78 that's why I added the option without boosters. The only downside is that it's not that easy changing bod. When you get the booster function to work you can also run a motion dec in 3.3v for example. 3.3v will give you more sensor options.
Well, it is pretty easy IMHO, you just have to follow on of the many tutorials, and you learn a lot on the way :)
For motion detection isn't a booster a bad idea ? You can use AM312 anyway, very small and very stable, no soldering necessary to run it down to 2.7V meaning you can use most of the capacity of a lithum cell like CR123.@dbemowsk thanks for the information I didn't even know about this sensor, looks like a very precise one with a very low power consumption. Can you link to where you bought it from I see nothing below 4$ on aliexpress ?
@Nca78 I believe this is the same one that I bought, at least the carrier board looks to be labeled the same. Mine was just listed as an HDC1080, where this one is listed as a GY-213V-HDC1080. I am assuming it is the same chip. When I bought the 2 that I have I paid $5/module shipped which after looking at this one was a bit high. Live and learn though.
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@Nca78 said in 💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:
when a sht21/si7021 is 3$ or less on aliexpress
The thing is that when people start with mysensors and arduinos, none of these are listed on Store page, so using them would be experimenting basically. And experimenting before you have even begun anything is a bit masochistic. At least in my case that is how I was thinking, so I ordered several of dht22, not really knowing that there are better/efficient alternatives. Maybe we can get those sensors in the store page, perhaps mention them on the examples page, noting that they are more efficient?
@dakipro the dht22 is a hot potato not only due to 3.3 req but also quality... I know this has been requested for removal on homepage before and I think it's just a matter of someone makes a good example for another sensor to replace it with.
Yes you can cut the trace for vcc and hardwire it from bat if you want to lower bod.
And yes it's not that hard to lower bod... but harder than booster and therefore I choose the easiest option since that's my board goal.
I'm running 1mhz with booster and motion without problems... but same there, with a bad booster it will false trigger.
Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz -
This might be the better example you are looking for https://github.com/mysensors/MySensorsArduinoExamples/pull/25
@mfalkvidd so all we need is some graphics and some text 👍?
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@dakipro the dht22 is a hot potato not only due to 3.3 req but also quality... I know this has been requested for removal on homepage before and I think it's just a matter of someone makes a good example for another sensor to replace it with.
Yes you can cut the trace for vcc and hardwire it from bat if you want to lower bod.
And yes it's not that hard to lower bod... but harder than booster and therefore I choose the easiest option since that's my board goal.
I'm running 1mhz with booster and motion without problems... but same there, with a bad booster it will false trigger.
@sundberg84 said in 💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:
@dakipro the dht22 is a hot potato not only due to 3.3 req but also quality... I know this has been requested for removal on homepage before and I think it's just a matter of someone makes a good example for another sensor to replace it with.
The only thing for the DHT sensors is they have their own pins, so you don't have to solder pins like on the breakout board of the I2C sensors. That's a good reason to keep them in example section otherwise a soldering iron is necessary, but it should at least talk about the existence of I2C sensors.
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Mod: Fuse/bootloader discussion moved to https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/7296/burning-fuses on request by @sundberg84
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@dakipro the dht22 is a hot potato not only due to 3.3 req but also quality... I know this has been requested for removal on homepage before and I think it's just a matter of someone makes a good example for another sensor to replace it with.
Yes you can cut the trace for vcc and hardwire it from bat if you want to lower bod.
And yes it's not that hard to lower bod... but harder than booster and therefore I choose the easiest option since that's my board goal.
I'm running 1mhz with booster and motion without problems... but same there, with a bad booster it will false trigger.
@sundberg84 just to update success of the story, I cut the vcc trace and connected mini directly to battery, burned the fuses based on your advice here https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/7296/burning-fuses/8, and now the sensor goes down to 2.0v :)
Booster is still used but only for dht22, radio and pro mini run directly from the battery.Thank you very much guys for help, now I have a foundation (and the knowledge) for more awesome sensors! :)
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just power it from the usb adapter, the pro mini can work at 5V. If you have other HW not 5V tolerant you need to use the RAW pin and let the pro mini regulator to its job. It all depends on what you want to do with the node
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Dear @gohan !
Thank for your help!
Which configuratation should i use? Or do i have to modify one of the above configurations? (3.3V , 5V regulated, or 6-12V) ?@Tommas 5v + 3.3v pro mini there is no example for this. Add your 3.3v pro mini and radio. Connect 5v to raw and put a jumper/connect both reg and bat.
If you want to use to for 2xaa please follow the example.
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@dakipro - hi!
but they just wont work reliably on lover battery power then 2.8v . Is that the limit?
No, the limit should be (if you have a genuine radio) 1,9v. Im not sure what kind of voltages a clone will manage, but my nodes goes below 2.8v!
I cannot debug using serial adapter, as when I connect it, then pro works fine as it gets 3.3v from the pc.
This should not be a problem - you can power the node from the "normal" way and just connect RX/TX and GND from the ftdi to the arduino ftdi header. I have done this several times.
D2-gnd show 2.5v
The IRQ line from the radio is 2.5v since thats what the radio gets. Im not exactly sure what this does, but in SPI which is what the radio are using, its either HIGH or LOW so 2.5v sounds right since the radio has that voltage. This should not disturb the arduino! This is changed in REV9 so you can disconnect D2 from the radio if wanted. You should not use D2 for any sensor below Rev9.
The led on arduino goes red for 3-4s, then goes off for 2s then again red for 3s, then off...
Sounds like the radio is transmitting... if this goes on and on it can mean the radio isnt getting connected/ack or establish a way to the gateway.
Do you have some suggestions on how I can debug what is going on?
You need to check the debut output (see above)!
Could you describe the issue? Are the node lost from the controller?What is the lowest voltage the batteries can go (with the 3.3v booster)?
1.9v is the minimum to the radio.
0,8v is the minimum for the booster.@sundberg84 I do have the same problem with my setup. As soon as power drops below 2.8 the radio will have problem connecting to gateway. Sometimes it connect after 10-15 tryes. Is there any way to see if nrf sending or any outer way to test stuff? Any ideas are welcome //Håkan
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@sundberg84 I do have the same problem with my setup. As soon as power drops below 2.8 the radio will have problem connecting to gateway. Sometimes it connect after 10-15 tryes. Is there any way to see if nrf sending or any outer way to test stuff? Any ideas are welcome //Håkan
@keldandorin - are you using a booster as mentioned above?
The problem is in that case noice introduces in the radio from the booster (a known issue). I will in the future try to buy me a oscilloscope and diagnose more... but for now, if you add a "bad/cheap" booster it will be this problem. 2.8v sounds really bad though, and most likley a really bad clone.You have two options.
- Try another booster, and/or try to filter with capacitors.
- Load a new bootloader that can handle lower voltages accoring to link above.
Let me know if I can assist you in any way.
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@Tommas 5v + 3.3v pro mini there is no example for this. Add your 3.3v pro mini and radio. Connect 5v to raw and put a jumper/connect both reg and bat.
If you want to use to for 2xaa please follow the example.
Dear @sundberg84 !
Thank you! ANd which example should i follow with this modification?
Thanks
T -
There is no right answer since without knowing what you want to do, they could be all wrong or even all correct. :)
Dear gohan!
I would like to power all my nodes from a central power source with 5V . I would like to use 3.3V microcontroller with 3V sensors... because of the voltage drop down caused by the distance (5-15m from the power source). Maybe there will be 1-2 battery powered sensor nodes..
This is my plan.
I dont like using battery. It is too hard for me to optimize the sensors for battery...Best regards
T
