I would really like to get OTA working here as it's freezing outside and I have to go there to update the software in the greenhouse control system.
So please, can we have a 'how to' step-by-step guide to OTA? Please?
S.
@wrendral said in "Remote Irrigation with LoRaWAN: LM27313 Challenges and PCB Design":
I will go with a Li-Po Battery type: 304048 3.7V 1200mAh
Might work, but maybe the internal protection will trigger with the high current peaks. I'd suggest you plan a 0 Ohm, (2512/THT) resistor as R2 and then replace it with a 100Ohm/1Watt if the protection triggers.
@eiten I haven't yet made any progress on finding a good VOC sensor, but along the way I did find out something interesting regarding CO2: namely, if you sleep with your bedroom door closed at night, then the odds are good that the CO2 levels rise to surprisingly high and unhealthy levels.
The better CO2 sensors are factory calibrated and never again need recalibration for the life of the sensor (usually around 10 years or so), because they are used in HVAC systems to control fresh air intake to guarantee indoor air quality. As a for instance, here is one such CO2 sensor: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/senseair/006-0-0008/15790694 At around $50 for just the sensor element itself, it's not exactly cheap, but then again, I'd say it's worth it, because who wants to be burdened by remembering to calibrate their CO2 sensors?
Ideally, I'd like to find a sensitive VOC sensor that also will never require calibration.
Nearly all, and maybe all, of the off-the-shelf IAQ montoring stuff that you might buy for, say, $300 or less seems to require periodic calibration. For that reason, this might be one of those occasions where build is rather than buy.
I bought the Every because it implied it was backward compatible with the nano. No, it's not, as we found out.
Be that as it may, any word on a getting the Every working with mySensors?
