"....as humidity measurement only is useful if there is free flow air...." I disagree.

To not damage the wall in any way, I would use a humidity sensor (several are available, I am using the BME280 for a different application)

I would mount the sensor inside a plastic box with no top (like a storage box) I would hold the box to the wall using perhaps a piece of furniture etc. You would have to "calibrate" how much humidity would be too much. There is a possibility the humidity sensor might be too sensitive and simply go to 100% with a small amount of moisture in the wall.

I'm curious, what would be done if moisturize was detected during the winter?

Hi,

I usually run my iron at 380 to 390°C for soldering thru hole components. I've been soldering for a long time and found this temp to be the best for my technique.
You should have multiple tips for different size parts. For instance, I solder board headers with a conical 0.032" tip.
The most important item is to have the solder tip wet with solder before you touch it to the board, and touch both the pad and lead at the same time. Feed in a little more solder and watch it flow into the joint...remove tip immediately.
My tip is contacting the joint for 2 seconds, maybe 3 at the most.

I have a completely built functioning Gateway based on the Sensebender board and 5100 Network board. I have no use for it anymore. Is it acceptable to offer it for sale in this forum?

Reason: I've learned Kicad and am off making boards for my projects :)

Thanks

John

I'm not sure how your physical test was setup.

1. In the past I've found the best test was to put the sensors in a cardboard box, maybe 6x6x8 with the sensors on a plastic platform (an old food container), close it and let it sit for some hours in an area away from heat / cool vents etc.

2. Is the host board the same for both sensors?

3. For humidity you can put both in a plastic bag with a saturated solution of salt and water. Let sit for a few days. The humidity inside the bag will be almost exactly 75%. Becomes a cheap and dirty "reference"

4. There has been reports that sampling too frequently will cause internal heating to a small degree. At what rate are you sampling the device?

5. These suggestions are not to say what you see is not part to part variation.

My recollection of MOV specifications is the are often rated for AC operation I.e. In the US we might use a 130Vac MOV. While others are rated for DC operation. For most folks it is probably wise to follow those ratings. If you are really into MOV.s then you look to the curves.

I do not mean to imply that AC rated MOVs a different from DC rated MOVs, they are both physically the same parts, its just how the catalog presents the specifications.

Curious, have folks had issues with fake Atmel chips? I've read the military has has some issue with fake parts to the point they often need to disassemble some to determine their authenticity. So there is no doubt they exist. Personally I've purchase maybe 10 various Pro Mini boards on eBay and have never any indication the chips I've received were sub standard. I've made plenty wiring and voltage mistakes and have not lost a board to date.

I do purchase from only 1 or 2 vendors on eBay, vendors I started with because they had a good rating and offered mid level prices. After receiving seemingly good product I stayed with them if possible.

Not that it applies to this topic but I just purchased a Pro Mini compatible in a square form factor, 3 rows of pins and "4 mounting holes" :) The mounting holes are what drove me to purchase these boards.

I'm not in agriculture but I am familiar with thermal radiation an normal heat flow. I had investigated thermal radiation some time ago and I recall a clear sky "looks" like -40 °C (or °F at this temp).

I would think for a bud to freeze it would depend on:

1. combination of temperature and time at temperature.
2. radiant cooling added into the effect of #1

I don't have any experience to suggest an actual solution. However I would consider thermal sensors (probably 1-wire) located at different places in the field, as well as some measurement of sky radiation.
These coupled with the time of day and some integral of time at temperature should be a good start.

@CrankyCoder
For sensors I'm using 4 stainless steel screws extending out the bottom of a plastic housing. They are spaced at the corners of a 5/8 square. I tested it with 2 screw and it worked fine but I went with 4 for the extra sense current.

@gohan,
I'm using 3 AAA batteries, my 2 AAA carbon battery statement was in error. When fresh the voltage exceeds the RFM69 input voltage specification.

John

@CrankyCoder

I have a similar (same?) sensor type running on a Pro mini.
I uses a PNP to gain up the sensor current and ran it into INT1 . My RFM69 uses INTO.

Works perfect. I've been running it on 3 AAA *** Carbon! batteries for a few months to see how long the batteries work. I can't yet estimate the battery life because I'm using the internal measurement of Vcc (which goes through the regulator).

John

*** updated, the original post stated 2 AAA batteries. This was in error.

From what I've read it is Zigbee, Z-Wave and some extensions I don't yet understand.

So yes I'm asking if MySensors will have an app similar to the Vera app that now exists.

John

I realize this product is very new, however based on the power of the hardware I'm hoping it is what it claims. I'm currently using a VeraPlus which seems like it will be hobbling along for some time.

I see the possibilities as:

1. Yes, we are working on it now
2. Maybe, we'll see it takes off
3. No, we're likely not going to consider this device.

Anybody have any insight?

John

I'm not sure the max time for the built in WDT but I know it is limited. In addition it adds to the battery drain. You might look at a TPL5010.

John

For contacts like batteries I use a silicone lubricant I found at the local pool store. It is used for lubricating O-rings and fittings on pool filters and plumbing.
Its benefits are:

• Very thick and stays put (for the most part)

• Displaces moisture and air, reducing corrosion

• Does not harden so the contacts can "move" and still retain contact.

• Most of all, does not attack plastics or cause them to swell (as a petroleum based product would)

Not that its much of a help, but I recently installed a TP-Link (non managed) router and my gateway (w/ W5100) works fine through it.

@mfalkvidd

If I were to look for a lower cost solution (vs a full industrial offering) I would talk to Epcos EU.

I have worked with them in the past and they have a small absolute pressure sensor that may work for you.

John

Not sure why the pins do not stay in place. Perhaps they are knock offs.

You need not seal the back of the connectors, the yellow inserts held by the back of the pin acts as a seal. The Delphi Versions have been used for under vehicle for years with no environmental issue. The location is partially protected (i.e. on top of the fuel tank etc).

See attached

I would say the irrigation connectors mentioned by NeverDie sounds good, but I'm not familiar with them.

@gohan

Thank you for the comment. Somehow I was under the impression the NRF24 would accept a 5V for power. However now I see only the inputs are 5V tolerant.

From the website the SCT-013-050 outputs 0 to 1 volt for a current of 0 to 50 amps.

I agree the "burden" resistor is built in on this module.

Please verify you are only passing one of the coffeemaker wires through the sensor. If you pass the whole cable through the sensor you will get no output voltage from the sensor.

A typical coffee maker requires ~1000 watts. At 230 vac this is ~4 amps. So the output of the current sensor should be about +/- 4/50*1 = 0.08 volts. This means the arduino has to measure readings from 0 to about 0.11 volts then calculate the RMS. doable but the readings are getting somewhat small to be stable.

I would suggest:

1. measure the sensor output with a multimeter if you have one.

2. Change the reference of A/D converter on the Arduino from the default to the 1.1V internal reference. Not sure the code but you should be able to find it easy enough.

3. you can increase the output of the sensor by passing the coffee maker wire through multiple times. For each time the wire goes through the sensor the sensitivity is increased by that number.
   for example if you pass the wire through the sensor 3 times. The output becomes 0 to 1 volt for 0 to 50/3 amps .

4. Add a 0.1µF Capacitor across the sensor (where the burden resistor is shown on your diagram. This will remove some of the noise that exists on all AC lines.

I recently started with MySensors. I chose the RFM69W radio over the nrf24 due to posts complaining about range issues with the nrf24. That said I can tell I can tell you the range of my RFM69W is excellent. From my basement (concrete foundation) to the other side of my neighbors house ~75 meters with no issues.

The only drawback I see is the voltage limit of 3.3Vdc. This precludes using some batteries without a regulator.

I also found the external antenna could be a + or -. Currently I'm using a coil / spring type antenna mounted on the board.

Hi,

The connectors you referenced look like Delphi 150 type connectors. What about them makes them useless? They work for vehicle use.