Topics created by Martin Tellblom

Here is a very good page explaining the two methods of ultrasonic anemometers. http://www.dl1glh.de/ultrasonic-anemometer.html

@flopp ...and need to make sure it stays clean all the time

I was thinking if I created for example a Slim Node project, I should put it in that area. Not only the creator of the PCB that the project is based on. Just to get it simpler to find project based on a specific PCB Or as I said a pinned topic like this Example: Below is sensors based on My Slim 2AA Battery Slim Node found on openhardware.io Slim Node as a Mini 2AA Battery PIR Motion Sensor Slim Node Si7021 sensor example

@mfalkvidd said: e Thanks v:) the instructions were great, now lets see if the child or the dog gets the first try

@mfalkvidd Tnaks, I saw that Adafruit had a library and code or this that should be ESP8266 certified ... I'll try. Thanks for quick support

@Yveaux Hmm I couldn't find them in my Node Red setup. Will have a look at that later on. Thank you.

@AWI said: e 5 volt is the refer Once again. Big thank you @AWI . As you understand I'm new to this battery thing and it's kind of driving me crazy

@mrwomble I have seen it and it's nice. Live in Sweden where the sun turn of at around 18:00 (6pm) so we need batteries Joke aside my are intended to be used for the two plants we have indoors.

Thank you @AWI , I missed that one.

@sundberg84 Can I assume that you are using power to DHT22 via a FET or directly from Arduino pin, so you are controlling when the DHT22 is getting power/voltage? I personally think using a DHT22 that requires min 3.3 V is not a good option for battery device - but I understand it can be managed http://www.datasheetcafe.com/dht22-datasheet-pdf/ DHT22: My opinion is is use HTU21D instead since it can operate on a much lower battery voltage. Watch out, some breakout boards have a 3,3V voltage regulator, that is just using battery consumption and isn't needed when using Arduino 3.3V 1Mhz battery operated

@Martin-Tellblom said: Thank you, I try that first. I cut the red LED and let the blue one be (since it just blinks a couple of times when starting up) I would just desolder the led and volt. regulator. I find it harder to cut and I have destroyed some doing so.

@mfalkvidd Ah ok, then I just have to wait for the stuff Thanks!

@Nca78 I can also combine with another MySensors Arduino mini for the rain metering. The problem I have is that the forcast is taking up alot of memory (and I don't know right now if I going to need that

Thank you , Ill try that. I missed that one I think my giving about 100 pulses / litre.

Found the problem myself There was another resistor on the other side of the PCB. If I connect the cable there instead it works

If you are open for some expriments: http://www.instructables.com/id/LEDs-as-light-sensors/ This might even be double usefull as different LED-Colors as "light sensor" would react different. e.g. for your red/green led .. if you pick a red led as "light sensor" you might get a much stronger reading then from the green led and hopefully a distinctive zero reading if none of them is on.

@172pilot calling sleep will power down the radio. The nrf should consume 900nA in power down mode. Which mcu are you using? If you're using Pro Mini, have you removed the led and regulator? More information on battery powering: https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery