Posts made by Tibus

ok thanks

yes, when I use de gw.sleep it works great but I can't go lower than 26ua+-. My test with your function draw 14ma because the nrf doesn't go to sleep... But is there a method to go lower than 26ua with the nrf? I'm already verry happy of the 26ua but if I can go lower, it would be even better ;D
Do you things it's because I use fake nrf? where can i bought real nrf? The one I use is from electrodragon.

I use the @funky81 's sleep method but the nrf doesn't go to sleep so I draw 14ma. When I use the gw.sleep method, I draw +-26ua. Is it possible to go below? (without the nrf, my own pcb with atmega328 go to 5ua in sleep mode with your function (doesn't work with gw.sleep because it's a test without the nrf ;D)

In your design, C3, the nrf 4u7 capacitor, is a classic ceramic capacitor. In the mysensors tutorial, they write a polarized capacitor is better for the NRF. I use tantalum capacitor wich are bigger but is there a difference with the ceramic one for the nrf. I would like to use a ceramic 0603 too if there is no difference for nrf.

Thank's

Ok, thank's! I've already change every A6 pin connection to A3. Can the user use A3 for analogic even if ATSHA204 is connected on it? or do I have to remove the A3 pin available for the user?

Ok, So I've to connect it on A3 (default value in mysensor?) and let the A7 floating? The A6 is not used so? (other question : I can't use digitalWrite on A6 pin?)

Thank's verry much for the details on ATSHA204A instead of ATSHA204. The ATSHA204A is in SOT23-3 too? so the A7 is only use inside the Atmega library?

hello, i'm making some mysensors board that I'll present you a bit later and I've add a place for the Atsha204 sot23-3.

I can't find it in Europe still and I would like to know if is it possible ton connect it on pin A6 instead of pin A3. I would like to keep the A0 to A5 for the user and use A6 for Atsha204 and A7 for Atcha204 floating point. Can anyone test it for me please?

Thank's verry much!

@axillent thanks for the values but what are the wattage of the resistors?

hox much current could you get with a LDO ort step-Down to 5V or 3.3V? 80ma?

with an access of your raspberry pi from anywhere (like "noip" I use), you can connect your android with jeedom and control it. It's what I do for my home automation (with a raspberry pi, a Jeedom server and a noip service)

And the jeedom's creator are working on an android special app too

For me, the easiest controller to install and run is Jeedom... Really easy to install : juste one command line, 1 password to type and 5minute to wait and that's it, you have a full domotic server on your raspberry pi with a amazing plugin store and a mysensor pluggin really easy to configure

Also update your sensors in 1.4.1 and update your MySensor plugin. It comes with a "new system" for Serial Gateway.

If you want more help about jeedom or mysensors on jeedom, please go to the jeedom's forum where there's a mysensor sub-forum with a lot of people and very active. (Even more active than this forum ;D) You can post in english, no problems!

https://forum.jeedom.fr/viewforum.php?f=35

@tbowmo said:

ATSHA204

This module is verry interesting but how it work? What you have to do in code to make it work, crypting messages,...?

@BulldogLowell said:

if you need it to run on battery, then you may not want to bother with sleep, since you are looking for the non-occurrence of something.

the interrupt method will wake the MCU every time the led flashes...

you could start with code like this (untested):

why not use sleep. Yes it will wake the MCU every time the led flashes but it 'll consume less power when it sleep. you can go from 7ma to 10ua when it sleep. Even for one seconds it's a benefit no?

ok, I'll try that. Really looking forward to play with it ;D

OK, Thank's!

The GUI doesn't work on mac with wine. The program is running good but do not recognize the usb device (even with a symbolic link to wine,...). Is it possible to get the program on mac?

is it possible tu use the ota bootloader on 8Mhz?

It depend if it's in battery or not. If not on battery you can save de "millis()" of each turn on and if the curent millis()-lastTurnOn >5000 your led do not turn on since 5seconds. Of you can also add an interrupt on the photoresistor, save the millis, go to sleep with the interrupt and à timer. Each interrupt will update the current millis and if you don't have a interrupt for 5secinds, the sleep timer will wake the arduino and the same calcul to know that the millis don't change since 5seconds.

I don't know if it's clear ;D?

Yeah, really looks nice!
Can't wait too for the link and more info about de OTA bootloader.
I'm making some industrial opensources sensor based on MySensor and my current bootloader don't have an OTA Bootloader. So it would be greate with your Bootloader and your application!

I'vr git exactly the same probleme and I dolce it withe a step up 3,3v just for the PiR. I think the chip if the PIR really need 3v IR higher and below 3v it give false alert. You get exactly the same error by giving 3,3v to a 5v PiR with régulator.

@axillent Thank's verry much. I didn't know the current up benefit of a step-down. I think it's the key of my problem!
I'll test the lnk306. Hope It will work for my project.

For my "in wall module", it's just lights so no problem for an SSR. But for the wall plug, The user chose the load they want... so if it's a TV or a washing machine or a power supply, I read an SSR is not verry good for these things...

@axillent My worry is taking 150ma out of a SR086? Is the SR086 ok to give 150ma?

The VTX is ok but big for an inwall module so is there a good way to get 150ma in 5V from 220VAC in the smallest form factor possible? (or in less than 1cm height?)

I also found these one but a SR086 would be fine for a inwall relay... (but 150ma?)

http://fr.rs-online.com/web/p/alimentations-a-decoupage-integrables/7719379/

Hello, I'm also searching a way to get 5V from AC to make a beatiful mysensor wallPlug... I'm searching the smallest and cheapest way to do it. My problem is I want to drive a regular relay (a SSR is not very good for plug and other things no?), an atmega328 tqfp, a NRF24 and some other things like a current sensor,... so, I think I need 150ma +-? (100ma for the relay, max 25-30ma for the NRF and arduino and some ma for the status leds,...)

I found here the SR086 but I don't know if I could take 150ma on it.
What is the best way for my projet?

I also found these one but don't know if it ok too :
http://www.newark.com/vigortronix/vtx-214-001-105/ac-dc-conv-fixed-1-o-p-1w-5v/dp/45X5484?ost=VTX-214-001-105

I'm searchin the smallest way because i also would like to make a in wall module for interuptor,... so the VTX above is ok for a wallplug but a bit big for a in wall module... How the cubino for exemple make a DC module so small?

wich inductor do you use for this chip. Your inductor seems verry small!

@tbowmo

Yes there is a TGnd Pad in the middle :

http://www.silabs.com/Support Documents/TechnicalDocs/Si7021.pdf
page 26... But I'll buy a Hot Air soldering station, i'll be easier to solder no?

i'm also making my own sensor right now and the si7021 is very interesting for removing my BIG dht11. But for home made soldering, the center ground pad should be soldered or it's not necessary?

@integlikewhoa check this :

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/404/3-in-1-humidity-temp-and-motion

I'm designing my own mysensors casing... 3D models are finished... I'm waiting to resolve some details like the screws,... and I will print it in 3D and make some mold in resin... I'll post some picture when it'll be finished if you want...

@m26872 said:

DO NOT FEED THE RADIO WITH THIS

why?

no, i've no plan to protect my pcb for weather and moisture... I didn't really think about it... I should... the resin will help me to get better enclosure for my sensors... I'm planning to print in 3D some beautiful sensor I made, make my own pcb, the tyniest possible to get realy small sensors (with atmega328TQfP,...) and make some silicon mold to get the enclosure in reasin instead of 3D printing plastic... Like i'm planning to make some wallplug sensors, wallplug sirens and relay,... I can't use 3D printing enclosure so the resin is the best choice if you don't want to use plastic injection,... (and it's cheaper too)

I'm also interested by this point of home security... I'm making my own "mysensors" with custom casing (3Dprinting, silicone mold, resin,...) wallplugs, capacitive buttons, 4 in 1 motion/temp/humidity/luminosity sensor, external meteo sensors,... And, for my home security, a keyboard/RFID sensors but I need a solution of deterrence. Did you already find some sirens from ebay or amazon that can make the deterrence?

ok, so i didn't understand the problem ;D sorry

in your exemple, it's in the loop function you have a bug... try to replace it with this :

void loop()     
{ 
  boolean sensorState = digitalRead(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR);
  if (sensorState != lastSensorState)
  {
    #ifdef DEBUG
      digitalWrite(13,sensorState? HIGH : LOW); 
      Serial.println(sensorState? "Tripped" : "Not Tripped");
    #endif
    gw.send(msg.set(sensorState?"1":"0"));  // Update gateway on change of state
    lastSensorState = sensorState;
  }
}

It will send a message each time the value changes

I didn't really understand (maybe my poor english? ;D)

What you want to do is sending value only if it change and after a minimum of X seconds?

@hek Thank you very much. I didn't fond it and I will try today... I just removed the 3.3V regulator but it didn't work... I Will try by solder directly on the H pin... Thanks!

I'm building my own Motion/Temperature/Humidity/Light Level sensor and with my calcul, it will run more than 6 mounth I think... The only problem is the PIR run from 4.5V To 20V but with a 3.3V regulator... I would like ton remove the regulator and power it with 3.3V but when I Do it, the PIR Output is verry unstable and do not even work by motion... just blink. Anybody?

I plan to use also a CR123 for my board. I bought some CR123a rechargeable on ebay but the battery give me 4V when it's charged... is it a problem to give 4V to a 3.3V step up converter? is the "a" after CR123 say that's a 3.7V instead of a 3V or is it just because of the rechargable function? is your CR123 give also 4V when it's charged?

Thank's so much

Julien

@mountainman
Thank you verry much, exactly what i need!

For child's id, if you have two sensor you have to change the ID in the second?

Sensor 1 :
#define CHILD_ID_HUM 0
#define CHILD_ID_TEMP 1
#define CHILD_ID_MOTION 2

Sensor 2:
#define CHILD_ID_HUM 3
#define CHILD_ID_TEMP 4
#define CHILD_ID_MOTION 5

Sorry, I found the new implementation in the "DallasTemperatureSensor" Example

is it the same process with the new 1.4 library version?

Could you please give us a exemple here or on github to have multiple sensor type on the same arduino with the new 1.4 library?

if it's the same implementation, we could write multiple "gw.present(ID, XXXX);" and send a message for each child ID type?

Thank's very much.