Hardware

@Anduril Well, its all opensource, so you are free to do whatever you want. Just remember that if you are starting to alter the behaviour and use of the security infrastructure, you could potentially compromise it for yourself and those that use your code.

No, I didn't seriously consider it. I have a minimal programming circuit with ZIF-sockets to program DIPs, but those are easily removed from a circuit (assuming they are put into sockets and not soldered) in case they need to be reproprammed . Doing this with a TQFP seems like a one-way road, so I think a way for in-circuit programming should be provided regardless. I mean, I didn't have to reprogram my first revision nodes so far, but I might want to add signing support later on or upgrade to MySensors 2.4 or 3.0 for some reason, so it should definitely be possible, but I'm not too worried, if the programming process is a little cumbersome, if the SOICbite experiment doesn't work out.

@mfalkvidd said in What happened to ceech?: I don't know, but according to https://forum.mysensors.org/user/ceech last time online in this forum was September 2017. His eBay shop is empty. Not a good sign...

@mirodin said in How to power my sensors in a rental?: using normally closed reed switches You can "convert" those by reverting the orientation of the magnet on your door, then adding another magnet (weaker or further away) inside the node enclosure to keep the reed switch closed when you open the door. When the door is closed the reversed magnet on the door will open the reed switch. To do even better you can use : reed switches with 3 leads that work as both normally opened and normally closed switches, and wire them to the 2 interrupt pins. I used that on my first nodes and managed to get reeeeaaaally long battery life on a simple CR2032. When door status changes the node is woken up then you set pin low and current could run only a very short time, you send the message with new status then you activate the other interrupt pin and go back to sleep https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33028519094.html if you're not afraid with SMD there are some ultra low power hall switches, using less than 1uA of current like the DRV5032.

I also suggest using MP3 shields and modules with jack output.

@benhub do you have the code the links seem dead? Ive been trying to get 2 temp/hum sensors (DHT22) working in domoticz for quite a while now with no luck. The temp/hum data in domotcz keeps swapping around from one sensor to the other and i cant work out why.

@Nca78 said in Looking for very simple rocker switch: So huge that the pins are in fact way too big (0.8*1.2mm section) to fit on a breadboard or in a Dupont connector Hahaha, that's hilarious :-D Thanks for trying though, really appreciate it!

@nagelc Thaaaanks! Your answer is valuable to anyone.

@LastSamurai, Very nice project you have here! Thank you for taking the time to post/share your work! At first I thought it might be exactly what I was looking for, but reading through everything now I am not so sure. I have been studying various ways (Wi-Fi, 433/315 Mhz RF, MySensors) to implement controlling RGB lights and I initially thought Wi-Fi (while readily available, easy, and cheap) might be too "slow" in response time, which got me thinking to use MySensors (with NRF24) instead, which led me to this thread (among others). Something concerned me though, I see in your GitHub for this project you stated: Project frozen/final - This project is done from my side. It has been working for years but I switched to another solution so I won't update this anymore. and on your OpenHardware page: Update2: They have been running for about 2 years now mostly without problems. The only disadvantage is that my Mysensors network overall is quite "slow" (~1s reaction time). I am currently experimenting with Wifi RGBWW controllers (H801) so there wont be to many more updates to this project Which made me want to ask you what you are using now? It seems to me that those MagicHome type Wi-Fi (or RF) RGB controllers would be pretty hard to beat price wise, I don't think I could implement similar functionality (including packaging, etc.) for the same amount of money, and that's before even counting my time. Also I am still struggling with reliability of my MySensors network in general, but I hope to be able to still solve this as it seems that many others have been able to (but that is a different subject altogether).

@secantscope I understand - It is a few years since I looked into this and then the only conclusion I could make was to take a meter and interface with usb. It would be more work and my needs case didn't warrant that at the time. I am sorry I could not be of more help in this, but it just seems to be the way things have been for a while. Maybe in the future things will change. As @nagelc suggested a lesser sensor could be used and you could calibrate it yourself. Seems little other options really. (Now I said that you just wait for a killer posting with just the thing you want linked) !!! ;)

Thanks a lot for sharing your experience I had reached a similar conclusion I tried to put in the oven the modules that failed, but only a few were "fixed" I have already successfully used another type of modules mounted in China at a lower price than the individual components, and I assumed that they could reach that price because they manufactured millions of modules But in the case of the GY-521 it seems to be of very poor quality, it struck me that I did not find any comments on forums about these bad modules I am evaluating redoing my PCB to directly mount the original MPU6050 Thanks again for your help

@Beeblebrox666 you can use them just like any other strip, with the limitation that not all leds can be controlled individually.