Hardware

Hi, sorry for the delay, I had just read your post and I could said "me too" But I solved the problem and it works for two years now. I explain my solution here, if the French don't afraid you. https://easydomoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=6497 I resume, a 7.5volts power supply, a passive injector, and a spécial home-made cable to bypass the RJ45 socket. The 7.5 v go to Vin-Gnd of the Nano to produce 5v wich is returned to the W5100. QED. Rpx.

@helmuteke said in Unkown Touch switch PCB : How to make them push instead Toggle: ATMHK218 From google this looks like a serial eeprom. For the other chip if it has no writing then it's impossible to help, especially when the picture is in such low resolution. My guess is the HTTM sensors have no resistance soldered so there is no way to change it unless you remove them, add the resistance and put them back...

@rvendrame Apart from the distance question I'm completely with you. Nevertheless I'll try to get that working :smile: It's already coded, so why not test it out? If it's not working or not used by anyone: no problem. I just wanted to avoid setting some kind of standard that might be somehow wrong.

Additional outdoor wireless nodes are located and mounted on the train stations.

Sometimes though, you may experience problems if your monitor or TV screen is set to disable USB power during standby. Monitors and TVs can often switch to standby very quickly if they don’t find an active source of content, and devices can often not turn on without power, causing a bit of a chicken and egg scenario. Add to this the fact that your device may be at the back of your monitor or TV in a spot that is hard to reach and you may find yourself in quite a frustrating scenario quite quickly.

Hello, I have followed your build and are about to to a similar reverse engineering of a weather station but my winddirection look different and Ineed some input on how I can fix it. On my there are 8 IR leds on the perimiter and 4 IR sensitiv transistors in the middle. The outer leds are wired 2 and 2 with all the odds having common GND and all the even have common GND. So i have problem on how to turn the led on 1 by 1. Any inputs?

Hi! Thank's for info. I had almost given up and now using an ESP GW instead but I'll give your setup a try:+1:

@Yveaux thanks, I have ACS712 for 5 and 30A but it has 66mV/A, would be complicated to use it with arduino uno :/ I will try to use a ct 5A + opamp like ina122 and try to read at least 100mA - 2.5A, after that I will read using the SCT model.

@NeverDie Most all normal water meters use magnetic drives to isolate the register from the main flow (even the wet registers). Common water meters are single or multi-jet Class A or B to actuate the magnetic disc but meter orientation alters accuracy. The positive displacement/piston variety simply rotates volumetrically so orientation does not matter. There are also ultrasonic types so again no contact, very accurate but crazy expensive. The critical point is the K factor of the factory built meter, K=1 means 1 litre output. This is not something you can alter, eg My outdoors Zenith is a multijet with K=500, the sensor is about 50 euro, but a 5c reed fits just fine. Useless at 500 litre/pulse but it illustrates the point it's how the meter is built. @OliverDog the V200 I have has a mosfet type sensor (triggered by an inductor?) rather than a reed, normally very expensive, but I got lucky with one supplier, from memory the meter and sensor were less than 100 quid, the battery for the sensor lasts maybe 10 years. If it dies I'll install a V100. Modern versions such as the V200H are usually RF or cable to a specialist receiver but it starts getting complicated with proprietary protocols as they're really designed for the water service industry, although some wizzes have hacked various models. May be worth a google as I'm out of touch these days.. It may be an old Class D design, but the V100 I nearly bought instead has a plugged socket in which the reed is inserted into the meter body. The Elster official reed is expensive but you can slip a normal reed in with a bit of preparation, it works fine as did one for a friend. Pretty sure the V100 is now made in Malaysia by the ex-director or similar of Elster, demand in Europe etc for the drive-by reading capability and Class D has tilted the market. No idea whether the Chinese market has clones or they're made properly. @NeverDie "A patent pending Flume sensor"... Flumes are restrictors for open channel flow measurement been around for over a century or more, a pipe version is called a Dall Tube, see Bernoulli's equation. Sounds like marketing hype, but it's just mag measurement sent to an app. A lot of folks have tried sensing magnetic fields or reading part of the register, think some on here had some success with photo sensors, so plenty of options...

@mfalkvidd you're right, there's a lot of 2.4ghz pollution from every device these days, no avoiding that, but specifically having 2 transmitters so close to each other has never been a pleasant experience for me. I don't think I've read anything about serial gateway not working on esp8266, it's more the lack of any mention of it anywhere. I mean logically there's no reason why it wouldn't be prevalent, as esp8266 like the D1 Mini costs the same as a nano, is faster with more memory, uses micro usb, no real downside. Plus, if you free up the wireless module, you can even use the esp-now protocol instead of connecting a nrf24 (which unfortunately hasn't been implemented in mysensors yet)

@tBS You should try the low power sketches by @NeverDie or @berkseo - They are available on openhardware.io

@bjacobse Thank you - I learn something new! :) I have WDT enabled on one of the RF gateways and still it crashes (ir never sleeps as it is a GW node). I am using the stock bootloader (chinese clone uno) so I wonder if this is the issue. I will try and upload the optiboot to that GW node and see if it helps. I also run a script in mycontroller to reboot the GW node if it is down, but that isn't working as I expected either..... Luckily I have plenty of time at home now, unluckily I have a lot of domestic chores and support a vulnerable person living at another address, so time for mysensors is still limited, at least for now.

@mrhutchinsonmn Just replace it. It has the same 8-pin interface as the other ones. Please be aware that the E01-ML01DP5 aren't magical bullets either. They allowed me to reduce the amount of repeaters in our house from one on every floor to one on every second floor (steel reinforced concrete ceilings), but the advertised 2500m range is unrealistic in real world scenarios. Their biggest plus for me are the improved reliability and stability they provide compared to cheap amplified modules, especially at high PA levels. BTW - I just saw that they are selling this module for 2,76 EUR / 2.92 USD in one of their other stores in the upcoming sale event, starting on monday: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33013542366.html

@mfalkvidd thank you for all your help

@mfalkvidd said in RS-485 to an wireless Gateway: Most controllers, including Domoticz, supports multiple gateways. I have 2 gateways on my Domoticz. That's what i wasn't sure. Right now i already have a zwave gw(module) hoked to raspberry pins,that controls all windows shutters and an Usb GW (mysensors serial gw) that controls 4 temperature sensors, irrigation valcs from my garden ,solar water panel relay , outdoor lights etc...all on rfm69W and C "transport" 868mhz, but i will consider if i build a second arduino usb GW or i keep the wireless to the gate. So if i see the zwave module like an GW i already have 2 as well :confused: The true it's that the gate is already "mysensor-rized" with wireless but i keep preferring wired connection for outdoor and once i'm burying the cables for power and doorbell ,maybe i add an Cat6 cable for RS-485 connection.

@Joost Added two photos to the project page. KiCAD/rendering still to follow.

I like the lighting effect on the stairs too. It looks great.

It's not a perfect pin-out match. You should definitely check out this thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/10327/rf-nano-nano-nrf24-for-just-3-50-on-aliexpress/1 But you're right, it's great for beginners. That's why it forms the basis of the Candle project.