Hardware

@matheus-galvao said in Best options for a low current display for a battery operated node?: GYTN-2490 Hello, I didn't do much for this one, I just used an existing PCF8576 arduino library. Are you using this exact same LCD driver, or another one ? They are not very difficult to make libraries for, I made a library for PCA9553 (much lower power) and it was easy, the annoying part is sometimes to convert the digits to "raw" data sent to the LCD driver when LCD driver designers and lcd manufacturer didn't have the same idea for segment mapping :)

The plantower devices were nice and small. But in the end I settled on the SDS011 simply because it can be connected to without soldering. In my use case - making it accessible to beginners - that was the most important factor. I've also found that "how precise is it" doesn't matter all that much. In a home you just want an indication. After a while you just start to think in about 5 levels, ranging from "bad" to ''great". These cheap devices aren't precise enough to use in situations where you would care about precision, such as official measurements. So my recommendation is to forget about this.

FINALLY! My replacement arrived and I soldered it to my pro mini. This time I used a level converter for powering it directly from VCC and not the arduino's VCC. First no luck, but after switching MISO and MOSI it finally worked: LED Flash Checking LoRa Device LoRa Device Present LoRa device version 0x12 LoRa Registers Reg 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A B C D E F 0x00 00 09 1A 0B 00 52 6C AA 99 4F 09 2B 20 08 02 0A 0x10 FF 70 15 0B 28 0C 12 47 32 3E 00 00 00 00 00 40 0x20 00 00 00 00 05 00 03 93 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 0x30 90 40 40 00 00 0F 00 00 00 F5 20 82 EF 02 80 40 0x40 00 00 12 24 2D 00 03 00 04 23 00 09 05 84 32 2B 0x50 14 00 00 11 00 00 00 0F E0 00 0C F0 07 00 5C 78 0x60 00 19 0C 4B CC 0E 7F 20 04 47 AF 3F 7A 00 3B 0B 0x70 D0 01 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 Current frequency 434.666MHz Write new frequency 434.400MHz Changed frequency 434.400MHz Seems like the diagram of the shop where I bought the arduino is switched. However I can now try to read the sensor and send the data via LoRa! Awesome! One final question (not related to this issue but maybe you can still answer that in this topic :innocent: ) : I got a RXB6 runnign to read a radio rain sensor at 433MHz. Is this received able to recive also LoRa signals or do I need a dedicated LoRa chip to receive LoRa radio signals?

This thread reads like an Agathie Christie novel. Well done on finding it!

Nice work @niclas Good question about the differences. https://lowpowerlab.com/forum/rf-range-antennas-rfm69-library/rfm69-hoperf-are-they-semtech-clones-or-not/ has some interesting information.

@axillent can you post the pcb file of this project????

@mjdula The 85 reading is actually an error message used by the ds18b20 to indicate it has not had time to complete the processing of the reading. Most commonly this is only seen when the node first boots up and can be ignored or fixed by adding a small delay. You will find a lot of information on this if you do a google search. I have never experienced it myself but from other posts on the net it seems power supply problems and long cable runs to the sensor can also cause the error. Some have also had success by using a different resistor value. Note you only need one resistor fitted near your nodemcu not a resistor at each ds18b20. If the 85 reading is well outside your expected reading you could just filter out any readings over 84 as well.

@Yveaux Yes, it's a pt1000 sensor. Is it possible to use the existing sensor on my solarcontroller and in parallel with an arduino or do I need an additional sensor?

@adfx Thanks for checking. I read once a blog/page about the use of multiple spi devices. It explained about the use of pull up resistors on the enable pin of every device you have on this bus for this specific problem. Just to be sure when I was testing it I did not connect the nrf24. I added that resistor to this PCB. So far it's works with the MySbootloader and just burning the program with the USBASP. Even with the nrf connected. I really believe that it was the chip itself. But I still have them waiting for a better test environment.

Hi, sorry for the delay, I had just read your post and I could said "me too" But I solved the problem and it works for two years now. I explain my solution here, if the French don't afraid you. https://easydomoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=6497 I resume, a 7.5volts power supply, a passive injector, and a spécial home-made cable to bypass the RJ45 socket. The 7.5 v go to Vin-Gnd of the Nano to produce 5v wich is returned to the W5100. QED. Rpx.

@helmuteke said in Unkown Touch switch PCB : How to make them push instead Toggle: ATMHK218 From google this looks like a serial eeprom. For the other chip if it has no writing then it's impossible to help, especially when the picture is in such low resolution. My guess is the HTTM sensors have no resistance soldered so there is no way to change it unless you remove them, add the resistance and put them back...

@rvendrame Apart from the distance question I'm completely with you. Nevertheless I'll try to get that working :smile: It's already coded, so why not test it out? If it's not working or not used by anyone: no problem. I just wanted to avoid setting some kind of standard that might be somehow wrong.

Additional outdoor wireless nodes are located and mounted on the train stations.

Sometimes though, you may experience problems if your monitor or TV screen is set to disable USB power during standby. Monitors and TVs can often switch to standby very quickly if they don’t find an active source of content, and devices can often not turn on without power, causing a bit of a chicken and egg scenario. Add to this the fact that your device may be at the back of your monitor or TV in a spot that is hard to reach and you may find yourself in quite a frustrating scenario quite quickly.

Hello, I have followed your build and are about to to a similar reverse engineering of a weather station but my winddirection look different and Ineed some input on how I can fix it. On my there are 8 IR leds on the perimiter and 4 IR sensitiv transistors in the middle. The outer leds are wired 2 and 2 with all the odds having common GND and all the even have common GND. So i have problem on how to turn the led on 1 by 1. Any inputs?

Hi! Thank's for info. I had almost given up and now using an ESP GW instead but I'll give your setup a try:+1:

@Yveaux thanks, I have ACS712 for 5 and 30A but it has 66mV/A, would be complicated to use it with arduino uno :/ I will try to use a ct 5A + opamp like ina122 and try to read at least 100mA - 2.5A, after that I will read using the SCT model.

@NeverDie Most all normal water meters use magnetic drives to isolate the register from the main flow (even the wet registers). Common water meters are single or multi-jet Class A or B to actuate the magnetic disc but meter orientation alters accuracy. The positive displacement/piston variety simply rotates volumetrically so orientation does not matter. There are also ultrasonic types so again no contact, very accurate but crazy expensive. The critical point is the K factor of the factory built meter, K=1 means 1 litre output. This is not something you can alter, eg My outdoors Zenith is a multijet with K=500, the sensor is about 50 euro, but a 5c reed fits just fine. Useless at 500 litre/pulse but it illustrates the point it's how the meter is built. @OliverDog the V200 I have has a mosfet type sensor (triggered by an inductor?) rather than a reed, normally very expensive, but I got lucky with one supplier, from memory the meter and sensor were less than 100 quid, the battery for the sensor lasts maybe 10 years. If it dies I'll install a V100. Modern versions such as the V200H are usually RF or cable to a specialist receiver but it starts getting complicated with proprietary protocols as they're really designed for the water service industry, although some wizzes have hacked various models. May be worth a google as I'm out of touch these days.. It may be an old Class D design, but the V100 I nearly bought instead has a plugged socket in which the reed is inserted into the meter body. The Elster official reed is expensive but you can slip a normal reed in with a bit of preparation, it works fine as did one for a friend. Pretty sure the V100 is now made in Malaysia by the ex-director or similar of Elster, demand in Europe etc for the drive-by reading capability and Class D has tilted the market. No idea whether the Chinese market has clones or they're made properly. @NeverDie "A patent pending Flume sensor"... Flumes are restrictors for open channel flow measurement been around for over a century or more, a pipe version is called a Dall Tube, see Bernoulli's equation. Sounds like marketing hype, but it's just mag measurement sent to an app. A lot of folks have tried sensing magnetic fields or reading part of the register, think some on here had some success with photo sensors, so plenty of options...

@mfalkvidd you're right, there's a lot of 2.4ghz pollution from every device these days, no avoiding that, but specifically having 2 transmitters so close to each other has never been a pleasant experience for me. I don't think I've read anything about serial gateway not working on esp8266, it's more the lack of any mention of it anywhere. I mean logically there's no reason why it wouldn't be prevalent, as esp8266 like the D1 Mini costs the same as a nano, is faster with more memory, uses micro usb, no real downside. Plus, if you free up the wireless module, you can even use the esp-now protocol instead of connecting a nrf24 (which unfortunately hasn't been implemented in mysensors yet)