From the website the SCT-013-050 outputs 0 to 1 volt for a current of 0 to 50 amps.
I agree the "burden" resistor is built in on this module.
Please verify you are only passing one of the coffeemaker wires through the sensor. If you pass the whole cable through the sensor you will get no output voltage from the sensor.
A typical coffee maker requires ~1000 watts. At 230 vac this is ~4 amps. So the output of the current sensor should be about +/- 4/50*1 = 0.08 volts. This means the arduino has to measure readings from 0 to about 0.11 volts then calculate the RMS. doable but the readings are getting somewhat small to be stable.
I would suggest:
measure the sensor output with a multimeter if you have one.
Change the reference of A/D converter on the Arduino from the default to the 1.1V internal reference. Not sure the code but you should be able to find it easy enough.
you can increase the output of the sensor by passing the coffee maker wire through multiple times. For each time the wire goes through the sensor the sensitivity is increased by that number.
for example if you pass the wire through the sensor 3 times. The output becomes 0 to 1 volt for 0 to 50/3 amps .
Add a 0.1µF Capacitor across the sensor (where the burden resistor is shown on your diagram. This will remove some of the noise that exists on all AC lines.
@joaoabs If you want to go the "arduino-based" route:
There seem to exist already a lot of projects reading this type of meter with a microcontroller e.g. an ESP8266.
The code itself seems to be rather simple (assuming, the code provided eg here: https://github.com/reaper7/SDM_Energy_Meter/blob/master/examples/sdm_simple/sdm_simple.ino really works, but there seem to be some more working projects out there).
So you may either combine this with normal mysensors-code and just use send commands instead of serial prints (at lower frequency). Could be you'll need a more powerfull mcu than the ATMega32, but most likely a STM32F103 will have enough resources to fullfill this task.
@tochinet I am just looking for something really small like some atmega328p boards, but more memory.
Like this - http://mklec.com/project-kits/kd-circuits/328-board-ATMEGA328P-microcontroller-board
or
https://www.openhardware.io/view/76/Stamp-size-MySensor-node
with (1) signing (2) encryption plus a few libs one can quickly run out of memory.
@sundberg84 said in Can please someone check if my schema for RFM69 is right?:
@sineverba - 1 rule of debugging, remove as much as possible.
Can you try to use a 3.3v MCU directly with your breakout board? That way you can eliminate that the problem might be level shifting and work down the wiring to a minimum?
sure golden rule.
It works. Now it works. Directly on a 3v3 mini. Removed all level shifter. Now it works.
Thank you for the support!
@nca78
I may end up with two LDO's on a board: XC6206 LDO to provide power while sleeping, to guarantee adequate voltage for a PIR, and a XC6210 LDO, which can deliver 700ma when enabled but which consumes a max of 100na when not enabled. Then I could, in theory, do an OTA firmware upload using LoRa and not run out of juice.
You seem to send the temp messages under a different ChildID than it is presented:
presentation takes "1", send uses "0". You have to allign that, e.g. by using
send(msg.setSensor(i+CHILD_ID_TEMP).set(temperature,1));
But as long as there's just one DS18B20 doing that dynamically doesn't really make sense. Using the defined message structure (MyMessage msgTemp...) could make things more transparent.
Also there's no sending command for voltage. So why do you expect the controller to receive also voltage?
@samuel-wieczorek Hi Samuel. I positioned the sensor over the 1 liter wheel. I did not used the TCRT5000 module, but made a custom built PCB. Howver the principle is the same (in fact the schematics is 100% the same as the TCRT module.
If you go to https://www.openhardware.io/view/15/Itron-Aquadis-watermeter-sensor-V10 you can see pictures of the module. Some tips I can share with you:
Shield the sensor and the rotating disk area from incoming light. This influences the sensor. Use a piece of plastic tube for example. In NL we have electrical wire tubes that can be used (the grey ones)
Bring the sensor close to the disk. The reflection should do the rest. Setting up the TCRT is tricky as you have little room to manouver (considering reflection and the point where the schmit trigger swaps state)
Be aware that when the disk stops with the edge near the sensor you get false readings. That is why I swapped to a software driven solution using SW hysteresis on the arduino.
Hope this helps. If you can open it, I can share a DXF file with the sizes of the bottom plate I use. Let me know!
Ralph
I came up with some variations on the above ideas:
[image: 1522716559096-power_platforms-resized.jpg]
The three on the left are very close to the size of just 2x AAA batteries. One of the two on the right uses a JST-XH connector. The next iteration of the LoRa shield PCB will have that JST connector plugging in from the side so that it doesn't interfere with the FTDI connector as much. I think that for connecting to custom made PCB's, the JST connector doesn't actually make much sense, but it would make sense if plugging into a COT power pack.
Lookes like the difference is no BODs settings and a bit higher consumption.
However, I did not notice much difference on the breadboard.
PS I'll have to order the proper ones.
