Hardware

@sbpurohit I assume it comes with everything (else it would defeat the point of the kit), but I would suggest you to email PCBway to have direct confirmation with them.

Ok thanks for your answer

Answering my own question: looks as though 1.02mm diameter should work fine.

@DavidZH - I really hate our electrical system here, but that is coming from an electronics guy, not a electrician. I like the idea of low voltage in the switches, however its AC. I would prefer to see DC, but the voltage drops might be something that they're attempting to avoid by sending AC instead. Yes, i agree about those damn rings and we also don't have the room here in the UK like you mentioned about the NL.

@boozz said in How to test/monitor packet loss for each radio node?: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3984/nrf24l01-connection-quality-meter Thanks, Ronald. I will definitely be putting together one of these very shortly. Looks handy for testing coverage and new radios. In addition to this approach, has anyone come up with a technique for monitoring all the nodes on an ongoing basis and flagging problems in real time? I greatly appreciate the value of the shared contributions on this forum! Thanks, Tim

Consider using the ethernet gateway if you keep having trouble with the serial one

No problem, I am running the nrf24 mqtt gateway on the rpi and it is working with no problem with domoticz. I choose the mqtt client gateway because I wanted to tinker around MQTT, but you could go for the ethernet gateway that is easier to manage.

Ok, thanks.

@AWI So I will Keep my batterys above 2.7 Volts ..:-) So in Summary... Hope its now correct Shorting the 3V3 Connections (right site of the Picture) plus from Battery to VBAT minus to any GND Any many many thanks for your Patience !!!!

@Lee-Groom - over time the community have found out that its best to power the radio directly from the batteries and not through the booster due to what @AWI said. Thats how i build my PCB. The nrf24l01+ can handle down to 1.9V so you have atleast a span of 1.9 - 3.3v to work with if you are using 2xAA. I would suggest powering your radio directle from battery and the rest throught the booster. Filter the booster with 0,1uF cheramic cap on the output (I dont know why, but learning by doing i have found this to work the best for me). Also be aware of that out of 10 china boosters i get atleast 2 that is so bad they generate so much noice its hard to get a good circiut.

@shabba As far as I can see (from search on mouser) there is no spi flashes available, which is capable at operating at 5V.. The closest is AT25XV021 / AT25XV041, which have an absolute maximum VCC of 4.4V http://www.mouser.dk/Semiconductors/Memory/Flash-Memory/_/N-488w1?P=1z0y176Z1yzmm0hZ1yzmm18

Hi jfeger, sorry I can't find the sketches anymore... if I end-up finding it I post here. So, I decided to use bare Arduino with the RadioHead RFM69 lib and parts of the Talk2 library. I just didn't feel the need for the whole framework and doing this I was able to customize a bit more the low-power usage and easily integrate with other third-party libraries which weren't playing nice together with MySensor. In terms of messages, protocol I just follow the Talk2 example and I'm using their "Message" format. I just assigned the "id" to a kind of message by convention and use the 8 bytes payload for the data... I normally use only 1 to 4 bytes actually.

@mfalkvidd Thanks for the careful and understanding explanation. Of course it makes sense that salt water is more conductive than tap water and distilled water. I will calibrate and map according to the specific soil I will use the sensor with. Thanks :smile: @Yveaux I haven't tried that, but that was a good idea to see if the sensor itself has any issues with the conductivity. One can never completely trust cheap chinese hardware.. :smirk:

@sonu-kushwh - I have one im ny designfiles: HKLPM01.lbr https://www.openhardware.io/view/13/In-Wall-ACDC-Pcb-for-MySensors#tabs-design

It depends on what your final setup will be, because you could load a custom firmware that sends data to mqtt or write your own code and use it as an esp8266 gateway with sensor attached. There is no universal solution, so if you would like to post your project we can give better suggestions.

W means that the module is for the world market. Without W is for the Chinese market, with less stringent quality rules (and therefore cheaper). C means the module is using different pins. http://www.hoperf.com/faqs/410.html [image: 1487495173510-img_1606.jpg] Mixing H and HCW in the same network should work, provided the modules are wired differently (due to "C")

China quality strikes again :-(