Hardware

@xydix NRF modules are sensitive to power fluctuations, so take care that you have a stable source. Is the booster of good quality or producing noise on the power lines?. The converter can produce a high frequency signal on the powerline, also know as noise. You can try to filter the noise with a small capacitor like 100nF or maybee even smaller depending on the freqency of the noise coming from the booster. My problem was/is the distance between the GW and the sensor currently, other problems were related to power as well, solved for now (see above my findings) @rubyan Sounds like power trouble and/or distance between GW and sensor. Powering from the Nano is in genaral not a good thing. The supply might be to week. Use an external power source and some capacitors (see above) Also try to see if putting the GW and sensors at a distance helps.

@xydix no worries with voltage below 3.3V. On the pro mini the BOD (which will reset arduino if voltage is too low) is set at 2.7v so you have a lot of margin. I use some sensor with CR2032 cell battery which has a maximum voltage of 3.1 and it's not a problem. You need to be over the BOD voltage that's your only limit. If you are using a 8MHz pro mini it can run at this frequency down to 2.4V at least. NRF24 will run as low as 1.9V.

Thanks for the feedback. I have several graphs in my XTension Webremote that are showing my temperatures as a seesaw between whole degrees. Accuracy is fine, the half degree C is more than close enough, I just want the graphs to be smoother.

@scalz oh sweet. More info :) Very cool. Did anyone find a good location for the memory chips? I am not opposed to ali but amazon prime would be better :)

@activemind do you already have a BOM? and is there chance to help you out? I would be willing to assemble one or two of the boards :bowtie:

I wish I knew about it before as I ordered several Moteinos without radios, which are very cheap in the US, and then ordering 868Mhz radios separately. Well, well - every day I learn something new

@Fotofieber I was more talking about Atmel M0 mcu which are well integrated into Arduino. So your boards are ST mcu. They seems to be nice (but a bit memory limited), and cheap. I have a nucleo board from ST which is also very nice because they are cheap (10$) and they have the programmer&debugger embedded and you can detach it. But even if this ST mcu is M0, Arduino boards core files can differ. That said, there is STM32duino for arduino, but I've never used it with Mysensors. And I'm not playing actually with ST. It could work out of the box depending of mysensors features used (compiling) but not really sure, I don't know the state of integration for these module in Arduino. You would need to use at least the spi port referenced by your board and the STM32duino. SPi port is spi port. For other pins like interrupt, CS etc.., that would need to check how pin are defined in STM32duino. I'm not sure if that will work easily out of the box...(https://www.hackster.io/rayburne/4-dollar-90-mips-32-bit-72-mhz-arm-arduino-f6e5c9) I know there are few other people working on ATSAM boards for mysensors ;) On my side, few months ago I have designed a lipo charger board for ATSAM. sort of featherM0 that i have improved for using with mysensors (spi flash for ota, eeprom for mysensors config, etc..)..I will release it if it can help ;) My project was looking to this https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3551/my-32bits-atsam-node-project Since, i have made other atsam boards for fun :) and I can't wait my esp32 module order which could change the game and my opinion... I could try a bit later (actually busy), with my nucleo board...but i can't tell when for the moment..

@Yveaux Have you read datasheet here... At the o\p side they mention unity gain amplifier with OpAmp [image: 1473310568327-opamp.jpg] but the thing is that unity gain amplifier always produced same output volts!

Coming late but, could I have schematic please ? ... what about the sketch ?

@sundberg84 Yesterday I found you forum post at bygghus.se I was stuck at the phone for a long time reading it all! :) I´m very impressed and I will for sure order some of your board for the aurdino. @stevebus Great! :) I´m trying to find a Arduino Uno board, looks like the one in the mysensors hardware is out of stock. I searched on ebay and found this one, is it legit and the real thing? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Genuino-UNO-R3-Compatible-ATmega328P-ATmeg-a16U2-with-USB-cable-/252365926607?hash=item3ac22e70cf:g:DR8AAOSw1DtXHD1s

@TheoL No damage. Water went up about 7 feet on our lake but had another 11 feet to go to threaten our property. Biggest flooding was to the south of us. We did have a fun time hiding out in our laundry room during tornado flying up to the east of us. Also, I do not think the radio is dead - hooked it by accident to my Uno testing board and it was transmitting just fine. Love these things - very tough.

@sundberg84, thank you for the input. I will make sure to get the additional parts so that I don't risk any problems happening because of an unprotected converter.

@toufou said: You use a motion sensor as i want. You make a reference to a hack to use it with 3.3V instead of 5V. Have you a link to see that? Yes, here's a picture (the only thing you have to do is solder vcc to the HIGH-pad of your motion sensor): [image: 1473068490039-123.png]

@siod said: Contact FensterKzR "Fenster Rechts" (FF_Kz) {mqtt="<[mysensors-1:mygateway1-out/3/2/V_TRIPPED:state:OPEN:1],<[mysensors-1:mygateway1-out/3/2/V_TRIPPED:state:CLOSED:0]"} Can't tell if you fixed this yet but your Contact Item is incorrect. You've stated the topic in the MQTT part as "mygateway1-out/3/2/V_TRIPPED" when it should actually be "mygateway1-out/3/2/1/0/16"

@172pilot calling sleep will power down the radio. The nrf should consume 900nA in power down mode. Which mcu are you using? If you're using Pro Mini, have you removed the led and regulator? More information on battery powering: https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery

That display will measure the load that you connect to it but maybe you can hack it and send information to the display instead?

@bruno tanke you, very good. I share it in facebook.

I think you mean a smoothing cap instead of bypass cap ;-) http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-a-smoothing-capacitor The smoothing cap for NRF24L01+ VCC/GND is not an exact science, it depends of the quality your power source can supply. If you have a battery operated device, you might not need it at all. battery is a large cap. and if using in battery operation your MCU/NRF is sleeping most of the time, and only transmitting shortly, and then sleep again to save battery lifetime. When using a AC230V -> 5 or 3,3V most converter are DC/DC and the DC signal is not smooth like a battery, to help and get this voltage signal better you need cap. The closer to NRF24L01+ VCC/GND the better. I don't believe that cheap power supplies from ebay/China are providing quality voltage... The cap size is most likely depending on how you again are using your NRF24L01+, is it continuous receiving and transmitting - like a repeater node, I recommend a large cap, if it's only transmitting occasionally and not a repeater node, you can use a smaller cap. The final cap size is usually what you have in your drawer + that can fit into your plastic housing :-)

Again, thanks for quick reply. I´m starting to get a better understanding now of how its meant to be used :+1: I have ordered some hardware now and will start to test. Thanks once again.

@frencho said: @chrille working, the antenna was the problem. I ordered some small antenna on ebay, and it s fine now ^^ Glad to hear it's working now. After creating a "real" PCB for my RFM69 gateway the issue went away - and it works reliable both with an external antenna and a small rubber antenna.