General Discussion

Are you sure that is the best solution? I'd go with something like an esp8266 that transfers the log on a ftp server on your network, this way you are sure data is transferred, otherwise using mysensors over wireless you could have some messages lost or if controller is down for any reason you would loose all that day log

@lozzer65 that's very strange. Are you sure the sketch above is what was uploaded to the Arduino? This code if (isnan(temperature)) { Serial.println("Failed reading temperature from DHT!"); should guarantee that nan is never printed.

@hek Maybe he would like to know a little more in advance before it gets dry empty :D

When you are planning to buy an oscilloscope the most important thing you should consider is the output signals it produces. I remember when I was in college it was the only equipment which was antiquated and outdated. Tektronix MSO2024B is a nice option I guess. Also, Tektronix MDO4000 is the best general purpose scope that is available today. Mixed signal oscilloscopes are also used these days.

1-wire doesnt do well with star wiring, linear is better, choosing the right pull up resistor is important, (4.7k is common, but not always the best), parasitic power? If so longer conversion time. Search "reliable 1-wire", there are some good wiring guides out there. It looks like you have 5000 millis fornconversion, should be long enough. Maybe too long? I dont know how 1-wire handles holding on to the reading, maybe combined with parasitic power they are shitting down before you get the reading. In parasite mode you have to cycle them enough to keep them powered up.

How many thumbs do you require to create one switch? Is there a good thumb to wheel ratio that makes for a good switch? Would you make the switch out of different wheels, say light passenger vehicle versus a late 16th century cart wheel? Would you be able to specify the amount of each type of wheel in the production of said switch? How about thumb types? Can I have one switch made from virgin female thumbs, and would it be more expensive than one made from 50 year old retired carpenter thumbs? I would have thought the carpenter thumbs would be more expensive than virgin female thumbs, as most retired carpenters have lost part of their thumb by the time they retire, so would be quite rare to obtain. TL:DR, your products suck, and have been blacklisted from my stock ordering options too. So long!

:laughing:

thank You @manutremo :blush:

Thank you @Boots33 for the links seems that "isTransportReady()" will do my job... i have a lot of work... :)

That's a clever solution. Thanks for sharing.

@VaZso i see 0-85 channel and i see most is silent , but my controller and gateway is 1m distance with router (because controller connect with lan cable to router) anyway thank you. i think this is related to just chinese radio...

Is that both a boost-buck regulator? Did you try adding a capacitor to the output? maybe it is a little unstable and the pro mini doesn't like it

Im sorry, but you are misrepresenting my position. I started this post to contribute, and point out an area where I wanted to do some good: to help this project live up to its promise of 'ready to use code examples'. I never said I wanted plug-and-play, that was just to offset the narrative that plug-and-play is not a valuable thing. What it's about is creating a gentle slope to get new people involved in the community. Beginners need working code to help them stay interested in the promise of the project. If the hill is too steep, people will stop climbing. Because of survivorship bias you don't see all the people who tried and quit using MySensors. I have contributed to multiple open source projects, including this one, so I know exactly what you mean about the effort. It also means that when I talk about wasted time, I know what I'm talking about. If two of the sensors I try need me to jump through a lot of hoops, and not the fun kind, then that's something we need to fix. I mean, with the WaveShare device the code for the dust sensor would give twice the level of actual dust! And that code has been on the website for half a year! I may have misinterpreted, but it seemed to me that MySensors project understood that the onboarding of new people is vital. The friendly design of the website with the cute drawings, the light-hearted writing, that seemed like a conscious strategy. One I can totally agree with. But if that's the strategy, then the examples need some love. That's all I was trying to say. What doesn't help is to paint things, and me, black-and-white. Pointing out that the examples don't work does not make me someone who is demanding 'plug and play'. And I don't think it's honest to then paint broken examples as a 'feature' to aid learning. I believe I was just trying to point to a valid concern about keeping it fun for new people to get involved. I thought this community understood that value given the light-hearted design choices. So when I post "steer clear of this one for now" at the Dust sensor page, it's not to disrespect you, but to help new people understand that the sensor is currently not ok, while I was trying to fix it. And yes, there is frustration that I've spent $20 on an old sensor that can be bought for $3 now. A lot of people may have had the same feeling these past months. But in all that time nobody left a warning. Sometimes it feels like people are just solving their own problems, and when they've fixed it for themselves, they don't care enough about the people that come after them. That's not an attack on the core developers by the way, that's a statement about us all. Anyway, onwards. I've contacted environmental agencies about which cheap laser-based sensor they recommend, and I've researched them in detail. I believe it may be a good idea to create a new 'default' dust sensor sketch around the PMS7003. I've also updated the temperature sensor code (I've been testing it today). I'll make an account on OpenHardware and post new versions there. Hek tells me those can then be integrated into the website.

@Pidde probably, but not in the MySensors library. You might have better chance in a more general diy electronics or a raspberry pi-oriented forum. With that said, there are a lot of tinkerers in this forum so maybe someone will chip in.

The network connection works just like a serial (but over ip). So you can test it by using a command like netcat. # TCP netcat <gw ip> <port> # UDP netcat -u <gw ip> <port>

@pugho You can do a lot of customization in Domoticz like custom icons etc. Just browse the wiki and forum (and don't get distracted ;-))

t862 looks fun thing, i didn't know it. but it's not enclosed?? you can also use the cheap hot plate technique, never tried it though. I have a T962 that i've hacked. works well here (i use only one curve for the moment, the one i set up for my solder paste). Crazy that they sell it, the hack is well known, but they don't apply it! it greatly improves it.

@martins try V_TEXT

Yes, you can have messages passing multiple repeaters. Yes, nodes can be included via repeaters. No, you should probably not make every node a repeater, enable it for woken nodes at strategic locations.