Hi @talhatec ,

The remote controls work well. 4 months ago I installed a new battery and from time to time I press the button to check if they continue with battery, they sleep correctly.

I remain pending to change the RF antenna for a better one and to improve some failures in the connectors of the battery that at the moment are very fragile (the pad has little copper).

The casing can be purchased online
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bluetooth-4-0-GPS-Tracker-Locator-Smart-Alarm-Anti-lost-Device-Self-Portrait-SC/401394156488

For now the project is stopped, I want to test the Aqara sensors (I buy them this week), in any case the domotics is now my lowest priority.

@dzungpham0703

I buy them on Aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180706102504&SearchText=HTTM

If you apply hot air it is easy to take off the white "double sided tape" and the plastic.

@kalina
The PCB looks very good.
I thought you soldered the PCBs manually. Where do you order the assembly of PCBs? Price?

Hello @kalina

It looks very good, but why do not I use a DIN rail box?

For example:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-piece-87-60-52mm-din-rail-plastic-box-enclosure-junction-box-electronics-plastic-control-housing/32848666230.html

@marcusakamg7

It is not compatible, you just have to see that the shape of the glass and the frame that holds it is completely different to the EU version, and if it was compatible Livolo would not have bothered to make several versions.

@marcusakamg7 said in 💬 Wireless Touch Switch: Relay Model - (For Livolo crystals):

Would this work in the US version light switch?

Yes, you can use it perfectly, both the power supply and the relays allow a voltage range of 90~264V and 0~240V AC respectively.

Edit: Investigate if the EU switches can be screwed into the wall box of the US switches.
I have used this standard size box:
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=es&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=es&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.leroymerlin.es%2Ffp%2F14004172%2Fcaja-de-empotrar-imprex-interruptores-y-enchufes&edit-text=

@kalina

I find it surprising that without writing any line of programming code, apart from the constants, the MySensors library takes care of everything, it's great!

My intention was to change the channel of the NRF24L01, the transfer speed, and configure the ATSHA204A.

I think I read that the MDMSGate does not support MQTT because of hardware stuff, do you plan to release a second version?
The truth is that I am not sure that it is essential either, but I ask you out of curiosity.

Edit:
More questions...

Why is the sketch configured with MY_RF24_PA_LEVEL = RF24_PA_LOW? Would not it be better to use the value RF24_PA_HIGH or RF24_PA_MAX?

Hello Kalina,

On April 7, I presented my domotics nodes at the Arduino Day in Zaragoza, Spain. Your gateway worked all day like a champion!
https://giltesa.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/ArduinoDayZgz2018_stand.jpg

I have a question, would it be possible to get the Arduino sketch that has recorded the Atmega328P?
Is this code? Do you only need that to work for NRF24L01+Ethernet?
https://github.com/DmytroKalinkin/MDMS/blob/master/Gateway_2.4GHz/Gateway_2.4GHz.ino

Kind regards.

I have already published all the documentation, on my website, GitHub and openhardware.io
For now I leave the node as finished.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzpNkBX-3T0

It seems that the new node works perfectly. Soon I will update the documentation.

https://twitter.com/giltesa/status/975061585784958977

Today the new PCBs have arrived, I will try to weld them this week!

By the way, I present the Wireless Touch Switch node to the pcbway.com contest and I won the third prize for best design :)

https://www.pcbway.com/blog/News/Winner_List_of_2017_2018_PCBWay_First_PCB_Design_Contest.html

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them.

https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them.

https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them.

https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them.

https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them.

https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

I just ordered to manufacture the next version of the PCB, actually I also sent to manufacture the other 4 modules.
When the PCBs arrive and perform the necessary tests, I will publish the updated files.

On the work panel and openhardware.io there are images of all the modules / nodes.

@tet said in 💬 Wireless Touch Switch: Relay Model - (For Livolo crystals):

I would like to know if you plan to do a roller shutter node (for up and down store)?
current detection is to mesure the time to up or down the store. And calculate position in %.
2 gang one for up and the other for down

My idea is to design all the nodes that I need, for now I am developing these four:

Touch push button, relay type
Touch push button, triac type
Multi purpose sensor: Doors, windows, temperature, humidity, light, and three expansion connectors.
Remote control

When I finish them I also want to make:

LED strip controller WRGB 12V
Clamp sensor SCT-013 for electrical panel.
PIR sensor
Plug with relay
Roller shutter
Boiler control (or maybe buy it if it is compatible with the control software)

As you see my intention is to also design the node to control the blinds, I think the easiest thing would be to manufacture a PCB that is installed inside the double switch of the blind and activate the pulsations. I have not yet documented on how it works but I think that something like that should give good results, all the work would be done by the roller blind electronica, the node would only activate the button (with transistor/ssr).

I must also say that now I do not have a house where to install all these nodes so I am testing them in my test panel but not in a real environment...

Hello @tet

This circuit does not allow to regulate the light of the lamps, the circuit that will allow it is this other (only changes the red PCB):
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/8952/wireless-touch-switch-triac-model-for-livolo-crystals

However, as it puts in that thread, I am having problems with the regulation of brightness, today I have arrived a new Philips bulb and it works much better than the Ikea bulb however it keeps blinking, I am going to buy some new triacs and optocouplers to see if those work better.

As for your questions, I had not planned to make a switch with two tactile pushbuttons, I think it is uncomfortable to press when there is more than one pushbutton since you have to be aware of which area of ​​the crystal you press, however now you can press with the palm hand in any area to have a single button. In any case, doing that is not complicated and since I am going to share all the files, anyone can customize the plate to their liking.

Does current detection have utility? Is it to know the consumption of the lamp? If it is for that I do not think it is useful to measure the consumption of the lamps independently, I had thought to make a current measurement node that was installed in the electrical panel and there measure the areas that interested me, for example the kitchen.

Kind regards.

I am designing a new AC circuit for the switch, this new circuit should allow to regulate the brightness of one lamp (the other lamp only allows on and off)

In theory by means of a triac it is possible to regulate the brightness of the AC lamps, however I am not getting it, I have tested with several lamps but the results are not good:

Lamp 1: Ikea LED RYET 1000lm
The box indicates that it does not allow to regulate the brightness.
I can not regulate the brightness ... it was expected.

Lamp 2: Ikea LED LEDARE 600lm
The box indicates that it allows the regulation of brightness
I can not regulate the brightness, at most some flicker.

Lamp 3: LED of unknown brand.
I manage to regulate the brightness but in a rather imperfect way.

Lamp 4: Incandescent lamp
I get to regulate the brightness correctly.

I have tested with these codes (adapting them with the appropriate pins and other modifications):

https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=95732.0
https://miarduinounotieneunblog.blogspot.com.es/2016/03/control-del-brillo-de-una-bombilla.html
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4952/motion-controlled-dimmable-led-porch-light

Does anyone know any other code or similar project that can help me?

Edit:
I'm using these bulbs, the Ikea works very badly, the Philips brand works much better but it flashes, I'm going to try a new triac and optocoupler to see if that solves it ... the new components will take several weeks to reach me, so there will be no progress until then.