I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them.
@tiana I have not used it, but it is possible to create different revisions. See https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors#tabs-revisions as an example.
@yveaux said in Ikea Molgan Hack:
@magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming:
Well, then I can confirm that you don't have to power the Molgan from batteries just for programming. Burning the bootloader works fine with just power from the ISP port and programming it through FTDI works fine if power comes from the FTDI.
What I found wierd is that the atmega328 had power, the radio had power, it wrote debug messages to the FTDI - when powered through the FTDI, it send radio messages etc, but it just did not receive messages.
Messages where not received until I supplied power to the + / - pads (battery pads).
I did read the instructions on openhardware.io, but I didn't follow then to the t.
The author has done some good work ensuring good design practices; trace separation, fuses, etc. but I don't see any extra I/O brought out on this particularl switch. You would have to carefully solder to the chip itself, and modify the code a bit.
You could use magnetic switches. Put a magnet on the blinds and the switch in window sill.
The author notes that this is not an Arduino, but uses the same chip that the Arduino uses. The author doesn't explain how the chip is programmed. This method could have been used.
It may be just as easy to use an RF Nano with a little power supply. This suggestion is not nearly as robust as the author's. For example, these power supplies have gotten bad reviews mainly because the mains power traces are too close together. I justify using them because in all likelihood a failure will pop the power supply and probably the Nano, too, noting that these are cheaper than the fuses you would put in to protect them. I am fully aware of the risks involved in doing this, and you should be, too (eg. burning down your house).
-OSD
@Sunseeker According to the Connecting the Radio page, D2 is the default pin for the CE signal for the NRF24. If you'd like to use this pin for I2C, you can free it up by assigning a different pin for the CE signal by adding this line to your sketch:
#define MY_RF24_CE_PIN pin
IIRC, all available pins should work for this purpose (D0, D3, D4). Just pick one and if it doesn't work, use one of the other pins. Please make sure to add that line before #include <MySensors.h>.
