Posts made by jeremushka

Hello Berk, Is it possible for you to share your schematic for this project please? especially the power part?

I got it. Do you use the same software that you built in the past for the livolo projects or you needed to adapt a new one for this full DIY no neutral wire project?

Very nice project.
Which kind of gateway do you use with this sensor?
Have you built a specific one based on NRF52832?

Please Is it possible to buy only PCB? Do you plan also to release your sketch?

@sundberg84 no problem. I will study about that. Thanks for you reply.

A really impressive project based with DIN interface.
Do you also integrate in DIN format the system to put a mysensors controller as well such as a RPi , etc... ?

@sundberg84 thank you. Yes i mean through the relay i need to switch a water heating system 2500W. I need a relay capability for 20A to secure the interface.
I don't know much for this kind of relay i need to modify the schematic of a 10A relay switch. Such as different optocoupler or transistor.. do you have any idea?

Hello, have you move forward with NRF5 on this project? I think it is a really good idea to embed in a DIN box. All automation system can be installed in the electrical board. More clean and safe installation and can be easily controlled on the board in case of issue of the hardware instead to unmount all the nodes that we can usually install behind, wall plug or switch.

Nice project :). What is the maximum load the system can accept? 16A 1500W?

@berkseo Thank you for your answer Good continuation on your nice project.

Nice project. I have done something with jeedom plugin through USB connection in a raspberry pi. However, how do you auto power supply your system?

On my linky i just use the 2 pins I1 and I2 to get the information and then i have 4m of cables until my raspberry pi to power on all the system. With NRF will be more usefull.

Hello Berk,

Do you still have PCB board available for sales for this project or for the upgraded one with NRF5 ?

So, i understand your point. You didn't continue on this project. However, is it possible for you to share what you have done please?

Have you moved to nrf5 for this concept or finally decided to keep the current design which is working well ?

My current roller roller Shutter switch are two pushed buttons up and down. No stop button. When release the push button up or down, the shutter will stop. WIll it be compatible with this board or will i have to change the buttons ?

Do you solder the components on the PCB by yourself and you launch the whole process in factory? Because soldering such kind of chip ATMEGA328_QFN32 is not that easy or need a microscope i think.

@berkseo said in EFEKTA Temperature & Humidity mini sensor:

@jeremushka said in EFEKTA Temperature & Humidity mini sensor:

Is it possible for you to share the sketch as it has been removed from the project presentation because of the rules of the website?

https://www.openhardware.io/view/589#tabs-source

Thank you very much. Great casing, it is very discret. professional design. congratulations

Is it possible for you to share the sketch as it has been removed from the project presentation because of the rules of the website?

Does anyone use altium designer? I am looking for the footprint of the mysensors most used components? such as RFM69, NRF24, NRF5, HLK-PM01.
seems most of the users are using easyEDA or Kicad. I get used of ALtium, do not want to change work environment.

@axillent yes you are right. Same for me.
Usually, what i am doing is to create a project library from Schematic. For that, i open the Schematic. Then Design menu => make a schematic library. All the components and footprint of the Schematic will be copied and integrated. If schematic is huge or some components no need to extract, then i remove the one i don't need from the schematic library. At this end, you may have for example only the transformer component and footprint in the schematic library and you can extract this library for dxternal purpose. It is maybe not the best methodology (i don't know) but it works.

@axillent, i am designing your board on altium designer. However, i am facing difficulties with the footprint of the transformer. Is it possible to share it or your pcb file?

@neverdie yes you are right. I have found a more complete machine. Seems we can use not only for milling. Can be interesting as well. What do you think ?

https://www.banggood.com/2417-3-Axis-Mini-DIY-CNC-Router-Wood-Craving-Engraving-Cutting-Milling-Desktop-Engraver-Machine-240x170x65mm-p-1209292.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=CreativeChannel&utm_campaign=July&utm_content=huangwenjie&cur_warehouse=CN

@kalina, Thanks. So it will not work for my configuration. Wall switch (push button) is already installed. No possibilities to draw more electrical wires.
Moreover, if i put the board near the light, i have just the Neutral and the return wire from the wall switch. No Live wire to power on the mysensors board.
I think in my ase the best way is to manage everything in my garage in the electrical main board where all the wires are mapped. I can get L + N for mysensors power supply. And i can continue to reuse the original wall switch independently of the Mysensors board.

By checking this discussion i have found a project online called: pcb cyclone factory. I am novice. What do you think about it ?
https://reprap.org/wiki/Cyclone_PCB_Factory

@neverdie thanks for the advice. Maybe i can first try pcb transfer with laser printer and chemical etching.

I have build a very quick board with Dual relay channel, arduino nano, NRF24 transceiver, Power supply from 220V.
There is also "Fil Pilote" connection to pilot the electrical heater. It is a french protocol.
It is a "dirty" board for sure but usefull when i want to test some code implemented in the arduino Nano.

I would like to make a cleaner board, a real PCB but if i launch the manufacturing i wil get minimum of 10 boards that i do not need.

If anybody, could explain to me how i can print my own PCB for quick tests about some projects, some features implementations, it would be nice

Now i can understand the modifications on the rev1.1. Do you detect in the firmware if the light is off or on with the ACS712 ? Does the push switch from the wall will still be acting independently of this Mysensors board?
Light status (on/off) will update when the physical switch will be pressed?

@ Kalina: Thanks Which kind of shortcomings did you get? load switch issue ? safety issue ?

@Kalina, does your project still alive? do you still have some samples for sales ?

Is it possible for you to share your main code to have a try on a prototype ?

Will it be possible to purchase this very good device you made?

@axillent said in AC-DC at own:

@jeremushka said in AC-DC at own:

some questions regarding the schematics:

1. does TVS diode 600W 5V is efficient enough? or absolutely need cut off at 160V such as 600W 160A ?
2. for the Fuse, a slow fuse 10A is enough i think, isn't it?

TVS need to be for 120-160V in case you supply 230V AC. You can refer to linkswitch designer for your specific needs.
The purpose of this TVS is to be a snubber because of inductive load. Instead of TVS an RC snubber could be used.

it is 3Watts supply, 0.5-1A slow fuse is fine

Thanks for the answer. i will play with this LNK component. never used it before. I am curious to know the performances of it.
for your design, you have added others functions on your PCB ? such as DC-DC converter ... etc.. ?

@axillent said in AC-DC at own:

@jeremushka for sure

schematic is standard, simplified version from datasheet
D8, D11 and R22 are optional, it is to be able to source power from different sources (for example different phases, or from main power and from generator).
D12 I'm using 11V to have output at about 12.1V

some questions regarding the schematics:

1. does TVS diode 600W 5V is efficient enough? or absolutely need cut off at 160V such as 600W 160A ?
2. for the Fuse, a slow fuse 10A is enough i think, isn't it?

congratulations :). have you chosen a nice box for it?

@tsd Perfect! It is what i was looking for. For the moment, i am using using this IC controller (iW1700-01) https://www.dialog-semiconductor.com/sites/default/files/EBC10010_Reference_Design.pdf. I have a transformer that i can use for flyback typology.
Now, i need to know think how to switch the load without Neutral Wire.

Here in France the standard is that we do not have Neutral wire connected to the light switch. We have only the Live wire (Phase L) and the second wire connected the light and the Neutral wire is connected to the Light to the main electrical board.
Neutral wire is used for the wall socket. It is why, it is a little bit complex to design it.

Then, the second issue is that in our installation most of the time we have the concept of "va et vient" where 2/3 buttons are connected together at different places of the room to switch off/on the same light.

Today in the market LIVOLO can do that, with "push button". or i have found FIBARO company where you can install the module directly behind the switch without to change any buttons. but it is very expensive about 50 euros per wall switch.

@poordom Thanks. I will check about that

@axillent Thanks. The dfirst diagram is interesting. I do not understand the idea of having a buzzer here (grey part). But the violet schematic is good. Seems it used a divider to compare the value of the voltage in order to determine when we can disconnect the load on positive wave.

@scalz how did you reduce the BOM? I have sourced most of the components, my only problem is the transformer. Do you have any suggestions where we can produce it with the specs which are provided with the schematic above?

@monte i do not think their is isolation as well.

@axillent i have bought one livolo light switch which has an transformer and the system is working without neutral wire.
Also here is a specific design from AC power integrations website:
https://ac-dc.power.com/design-support/reference-designs/design-examples/der-622-two-wire-no-neutral-wide-range/
However, it works with a non isolated flyback transformer. The specs are defined but it is necessary to produce this transformer to have a try.

For a specific project of wall switch light without Neutral wire, i need to design a specific AC-DC tranformer.
I have the specifications for the conception of the bobin... However, i do not find any good supplier to produce it at a affordable price.
Or need to produce in big quantity. Without to know if it is working well, i would like to produce few samples only.

Does anyone design his own transformer 220V - 5V ? any suggestions of supplier at good price?

@berkseo thanks for your feedback. My english was not clear in my post. No worries. What a pity i know this shop 2 days ago i was in Chelyabinsk i could buy before leaving Russia.

@berkseo I understand. For the Epoxy Fiber Plate to buil any systems where do you buy it? on aliexpress?
I have use this shop but i am not satisfied about quality the double layer epoxy fiber. Do you have any suggestion of online aliexpress shop?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Epoxy-Fiber-FR4-Copper-Clad-Plate-Laminate-Circuit-Board-Double-Side-PCB-75-x-100-x/32884661792.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.303.6e337b38IZeqOG&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_5015211_10065_10068_10843_10059_10696_100031_10084_10083_5015811_10103_451_10618_452_5015111_10304_10307_10820_10821_10302_5015911,searchweb201603_55,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=9b1d0f18-e394-4cc8-a4ad-cc83548e9a2d-43&algo_pvid=9b1d0f18-e394-4cc8-a4ad-cc83548e9a2d&transAbTest=ae803_2&priceBeautifyAB=0

Very nice development.
Do you have any suggestions about a good online shop to get good pcb board double layers for prototyping?

![Thanks for your replies. Actually, the problem is to trigger the pulse of the relay with the function "delay". It is working but sometimes during the "delay" function, the gateway has not received the information of the first pulse yet. So, the second pulse "digital write..." will not work. I will have to press several times. It is a coding optimization i think.
For the status i have used a ACS712 sensor to know if the light is on or off.

i attached for you the electrical diagram of the "standard" impulse relay on a french house installation which is located in the main board in the garage. Push button are connected. This relay is trigger with 2 quick pulses when you press the push button, then the light will turn on or off. To insert Mysensors project to this original electricall installation i directly connected the mysensors Node with an NO NC relay directly on the same wires than the push button. From the gateway, i trigger the relay with 2 pulses.

@axillent thank you. it is clear information very nice work

Thanks. What is the purpose of the inductor at the output of the circuit? why not to use one also after the bridge rectifier?

@axillent said in AC-DC at own:

EE10-A1

Congratulations! It can replace the HLK-PM01 that we are using a lot here. Is it possible for you to share the schematics ?

Hello,

The electrical installation of the house is made with some impulse relays connected to momentary physical switch. I would like to control the light with mySensors gateway.
To activate the impulse relay, i have to generate a quick pulse of the relay in MySensors code, I have compiled the following code but it is not working.
=> i have to press 2 times the switch button in my gateway to generate the pulse.
Any suggestions will be welcome

// Enable debug prints to serial monitor
#define MY_DEBUG

// Enable and select radio type attached
#define MY_RADIO_NRF24
//#define MY_RADIO_RFM69

// Enable repeater functionality for this node
#define MY_REPEATER_FEATURE

#include <MySensors.h>

#define RELAY_1  3  // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for first relay (second on pin+1 etc)
#define NUMBER_OF_RELAYS 1 // Total number of attached relays
#define RELAY_ON 1  // GPIO value to write to turn on attached relay
#define RELAY_OFF 0 // GPIO value to write to turn off attached relay


void before()
{
	for (int sensor=1, pin=RELAY_1; sensor<=NUMBER_OF_RELAYS; sensor++, pin++) {
		// Then set relay pins in output mode
		pinMode(pin, OUTPUT);
		// Set relay to last known state (using eeprom storage)
	//	digitalWrite(pin, loadState(sensor)?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF);
		   
		  if (loadState(sensor) == RELAY_ON) {
          digitalWrite(pin, RELAY_ON);
          wait(500);
          digitalWrite(pin, RELAY_OFF);
		  }
	}
}

void setup()
{

}

void presentation()
{
	// Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller
	sendSketchInfo("Relay", "1.0");

	for (int sensor=1, pin=RELAY_1; sensor<=NUMBER_OF_RELAYS; sensor++, pin++) {
		// Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices)
		present(sensor, S_BINARY);
	}
}


void loop()
{

}

void receive(const MyMessage &message)
{
	// We only expect one type of message from controller. But we better check anyway.
	if (message.type==V_STATUS) {
		// Change relay state
		//digitalWrite(message.sensor-1+RELAY_1, message.getBool()?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF);
		
		 if (message.getBool() == RELAY_ON) {
        digitalWrite(message.sensor-1+RELAY_1, RELAY_ON);
        wait(500);
        digitalWrite(message.sensor-1+RELAY_1, RELAY_OFF);
        }
		
		
		
		// Store state in eeprom
		saveState(message.sensor, message.getBool());
		// Write some debug info
		Serial.print("Incoming change for sensor:");
		Serial.print(message.sensor);
		Serial.print(", New status: ");
		Serial.println(message.getBool());
	}
}

very nice project for the power supply, is it a flyback power supply? did you design by yourself the Transformer?

@andrew have you also designed the power board or do you reuse the livolo's one?

@laucarlier, Behind each socket and each switch, there are 3 electric cables connected until the electrical panel. The default electrical installation was made in case one day, we want to add an automation system in the house. the three cables are: Phase, Neutral and Ground. Therefore, i can use two cables to connect them to the relay(see the diagram) directly in the electrical panel. In case of technical problem, no need to disassemble the plugs to check the electronic boards, simply open the electrical panel and control the system.

I have tried on my side the system and it is working fine. However, i have modified the connection as the following picture in order to be able to insert the system directly into the main electrical board of the house to avoid having electronic cards behind each switch.
Moreover, i connected the ACS712 on the "live" cable in serie with the COM output of the relay. In that case, i have no delay to display the status "ON", "OFF" in th controller.

@mainali said in INA219 DC Current Sensor:

MySensor gw;

I am building similar system. However, i am facing a lot of difficulties to make the ACS712 working. I have tried your code as well without success. The effective value of the current is always 0 mA even if the light is ON.
For the moment, i am testing with 5V current and i switch on a LED. maybe the current is too low to make working my 20A ACS712?
If anyone has some ideas, it will be very greatful Thanks a lot.

@laucarlier Thank you. It is what i was thinking. for the ACS712, you connect between the live "L" connected to the COM of the relay and the neutral N ?

If i understand well to keep the normal usage of your physical switch you connect it to NC and NO of the relay and the COM pinnof the relay to the L "life" of the electrical circuit, right?

Is the current physical switch connected to the arduino as well as an input button?

I have just checked the DC motor. I have 2 wires for power supply and 2 wires probably to control it and connected to the controller board. I cannot connect the rotary encoder.

No problem :). For rotary encoder, you mean somthing like this to connect the wires to the DC motor? [https://m.ebay.com/itm/Rotary-Encoder-Module-Brick-Sensor-Development-Board-For-Arduino/310702417391?epid=11007575121&hash=item48574ea5ef:g:LXwAAOSwuzRXdgFL]

Yes true. I just want to know the position of the gate without any actions on the motor speed, directions etc...

I nee dto check out if i can connect an encoder to the DC Motor. Or maybe it exists some board to connect directly the motor on it ?

It looks interesting to control the motor direction, speed with PWM. However, i do not wish to regulate the speed of the motor. Just to get the directions.
However with H-bridge system, i do not know how we can just get the status of the running direction of the motor ?

I have created a node to control a sliding yard gate. I have added a second node to detect if the gate is closed or opened and to show the status in domoticz. So, far it has been working pretty well for the past 2 months.

However, i cannot the exact position of the gate when it is partially opened or closed. Indeed, the same push button from remote control or from domoticz is used to open and closed this gate.
Example: if i press the push button on the remote control to open the gate, the gate will start to open. I press again, the gate will stop. I will receive the status as the gate is opened. Then, if i press to the function on domoticz , the gate will start to close, etc...etc... Howeer, the status will keep "OPEN" until the gate will completely be closed. That's the point!

I have no way to know the exact position of the gate and the last status from mysensors node.

I am thinking to detect the rotation sense of the motor to know if the gate is in "opening mode" or "closing mode".

Does someone knows a component or a system to detect the rotation way of a DC Motor (+24V) ?

@sundberg84 I am building an efficient AC/DC power supply to avoid using the HLK-PM01. I design the power supply with flyback topology with high safety as it is fully isolated.
in the current design i selected the component BF1550. It is a high performance AC/DC power supply control
device which is operating in primary side sensing and regulation. It includes an internal power BJT and is designed for off-line power supplies within 6W output power.
Based on that, i designed the transformer. I need to find a factory to produce it.
My goal is to introduce in any nodes this AC/DC power supply for safety reason and efficiency DC regulation.

Hello, interesting project. I am looking for some relays 10A, but i do not find under 5VDC. Where did you buy them ?

@Koresh could we reuse the 5V DC at the output of the transformer ? We have the isolation at this point. and the current will be enough for the the circuit.

@yury said in Wall Socket Insertable Node:

ACS712ELCTR-20A AC current

That will be great! for the current sensor, i am trying to check accurancy with another component HLW8012, it is used by Xiaomi as well. I don't know if it is good or not yet.

@yury Yes, this is perfect Great job !!!

Have you ever had feature as power meter?

@kalina agree with you. By pressing a button in that case better not to insert the system in the wall. To get outside plug. Something like the fibaro plug which is working with these two modes.

@yury i have built a system quite simular but still big mess in the connections. However, i am trying to have a detection when an equipment is plugged in into the wall plug to automatically activate the relay?
You may ask why? Simple reason. At home my wife doesnt use the automation system. If she plug in a device (charger, coffee machine, etc, it should work automatically without to have to switch the node via the mysensors controller. Normal usage of the plug should in my case be working.

in case you want to use the wall plug manually when a device is connected (without mysensors), it will not work at all in case the relay has been switched ? How do you manage external usage ?

Did you integrate power meter function to your systeme?

@Koresh indeed 3uA is nothing. However, the light can always be on or off if the circuit has some problems. Because no action on light switch will be possible.

@Koresh interesting. What about the battery life? how did you optimize your code in order to have at least battery life 1 year ?

Which kind of switches can we plug? normally losed or any kind of light switches already installed in the house?

Hello, tu gères combien de modes avec l'arduino? les 4 modes du fil pilote?

@kalina : your solution is quite interesting when push button are installed. Yes, i would like to put the system in the wall switch. For the moment, i connect the switch of the house on the arduino. The system is powered by phase and neutral in the garage as behind the switch i had the neutral wire. However, in the house no neutral like on your picture. So, im checking about using leakage current which should be enough to power on the system.... Not sure.

Hello, nice project!
does your system may work without neutral wire ?

Your system works with phase and neutral wires? Will you make it compatible without neutral as well? In my house installation no neutral behind the wall switch only phase. And o the lamp side only neutral and the return wire from the wall switch.