As promised here is my own try at creating a sensor platform based on mysensors. I have several nodes up and running for some weeks/months without problems at the moment 
Battery life with CR2032 depends on the kind of sensor used but should be 1,5 + years on everyone.
Love to hear some feedback and/or suggestions on what kind of sensor to add next.
I think I will add some door/window sensors next
@MikeF Dirtypcbs rarely takes more than 3-4 weeks for me too (in germany), but you are right, a local source would be great. There are several producers here too, but for everyone I know prices are at least 5 times what the chinese take.
If you (or someone else) finds a european service that produces prototypes (1-3 boards) for less than 15€ per piece please share it! Could come in very handy when developing new boards.
I am currently planing to update my mysensors setup (as making it more "professional", less wires) and build a new one somewhere else. For that I was looking for an easy/simple to build serial gateway and could not really find one. There are some great ones here like sensebender but these use hard to solder components and generally just more than I need.
Here is my idea for a simple and relatively cheap gateway. It fits into a small and cheap box from aliexpress and contains an arduino nano, a nrf pa lna and a micro usb breakout for power.
Hardware signing can be added with the atsha and I also added pins for 433Mhz sender and receiver. These could either be used on the gateway directly or using the same pcb with a normal nrf as a seperate node.
I will finalize the pcb in the next days and send it to manufactoring. Any feedback from you guys until then? Anything you would add? Any errors you are seeing?
PS Here is a picture of my prototype 
Yeah 
my PCBs from dirtypcbs finally arrived! So I instantly had to open the package and I must say: these pcbs are really well made (for that price). Here are pics. As you can see I designed them so that 2 fit on one 5x5cm pcb. So I have gotten myself 24 potential "smart" sensors now 
I haven't gotten all components yet for multiple sensors but I started with one test sensor anyways. It has through hole resistors instead of some smd ones, no capacitor and no DHT22 yet. But once I get the components I will add them on the prototype. For now it's up and running with a demo sketch that just sends random values.
And everything seems to be working nicely. Yeah^^
Next step is to finalize the components and test some other components as arduino shield like components on the two pin headers I added for that one. And I already found some small things that I could still improve.
Once that's all done I will finalize the RGBW ones and send them of for production.
Love to hear your feedback and tipps guys!
PS can I somehow add these pictures as thumbnails? They are quite big...
I am actually happy with domoticz. I have used it for about a year and its main advantage for was that it's very easy to learn and to use. Recently I discovered dzVents (which is now integrated in the domoticz beta) that allows for easier and more complex scripts. For now I was able to do anything I wanted in domoticz.
The UI isn't perfect (although openhaps is way worse imho) but it gets the job done.
I also tried to use openhab (2) earlier but thats a totally different beast. You can do awesome stuff but it's REALLY hard to get started. The new ui in openhab 2 looks great but its still a weird mix of using text files and the ui.
HA also looks great but I haven't tried it yet.
So overall I would start with domoticz and switch later if you are missing any features.
PS also domoticz updates (at least for features related to mysensors) seem to be implemented pretty slow. I have opened several tickets in their git where the answer was mostly: implemented on you own 
Which is fine (I dont pay them afterall) but other systems seem to be way more active.
Just a short update: I now have 5 of these controllers controlling different led strips in my apartment. They are all working without a problem (some of them for nearly half a year now).
I did some small updates to the code (which you can get via github) and will try to update the pcb later to fix that one annoying error with the mosfets.
I just spend an hour tracing the routes on the pcb. I am pretty sure I missed some (and there might be some errors) but here are my results for now. Ill redo them with KiCad later. Can someone measure the capacitors? They are unlabeled.
Hi, great to hear that someone else is using my project too. Perhaps we can get it to work for you too
First of all your mosfets should work too, I was using IRLZ44N mosfets too for my prototypes (although some people in the forum had problems with them I think).
All your leds turn on because the standard setting (when the node doesn't receive anything else) is to turn on every channel to 100 of 255.
byte values[4] = {100, 100, 100, 100};
byte target_values[4] = {100, 100, 100, 100};
Change that part if you don't want this behaviour.
The important part of your code for changing colors is the incomingMessage(const MyMessage &message) function. In your logs I am never seeing any serial output from that function. So I guess you never get any new messages with new values?! Try to find out why that method never gets called.
I haven't worked with mysensors 2.0 yet so it might be a problem with the conversion or just with your radio setup. With 1.5 and my node it works well (I have 5 nodes running atm).
@rsachoc Yes, I actually just tried it out and its working.
Here is my code for now (just for testing):
I basically just switched libraries
/* Sketch with Si7021 and battery monitoring.
by m26872, 20151109
Changed by LastSamurai
15052016
*/
#include <MySensor.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <SPI.h>
#include <SparkFunHTU21D.h>
#include <RunningAverage.h>
//#define DEBUG
#ifdef DEBUG
#define DEBUG_SERIAL(x) Serial.begin(x)
#define DEBUG_PRINT(x) Serial.print(x)
#define DEBUG_PRINTLN(x) Serial.println(x)
#else
#define DEBUG_SERIAL(x)
#define DEBUG_PRINT(x)
#define DEBUG_PRINTLN(x)
#endif
#define NODE_ID 100 // <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Enter Node_ID
#define CHILD_ID_TEMP 0
#define CHILD_ID_HUM 1
// #define SLEEP_TIME 15000 // 15s for DEBUG
#define SLEEP_TIME 300000 // 5 min
#define FORCE_TRANSMIT_CYCLE 36 // 5min*12=1/hour, 5min*36=1/3hour
#define BATTERY_REPORT_CYCLE 2016 // Once per 5min => 12*24*7 = 2016 (one report/week)
#define VMIN 1900
#define VMAX 3300
#define HUMI_TRANSMIT_THRESHOLD 3.0 // THRESHOLD tells how much the value should have changed since last time it was transmitted.
#define TEMP_TRANSMIT_THRESHOLD 0.5
#define AVERAGES 2
int batteryReportCounter = BATTERY_REPORT_CYCLE - 1; // to make it report the first time.
int measureCount = 0;
float lastTemperature = -100;
int lastHumidity = -100;
RunningAverage raHum(AVERAGES);
HTU21D humiditySensor;
MySensor gw;
MyMessage msgTemp(CHILD_ID_TEMP,V_TEMP); // Initialize temperature message
MyMessage msgHum(CHILD_ID_HUM,V_HUM);
void setup() {
DEBUG_SERIAL(9600); // <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Note BAUD_RATE in MySensors.h
DEBUG_PRINTLN("Serial started");
DEBUG_PRINT("Voltage: ");
DEBUG_PRINT(readVcc());
DEBUG_PRINTLN(" mV");
delay(500);
DEBUG_PRINT("Internal temp: ");
DEBUG_PRINT(GetInternalTemp()); // Probably not calibrated. Just to print something.
DEBUG_PRINTLN(" *C");
delay(500); // Allow time for radio if power useed as reset
gw.begin(NULL, NODE_ID);
gw.sendSketchInfo("TempHumTest2", "1.0 17052016");
gw.present(CHILD_ID_TEMP, S_TEMP); // Present sensor to controller
gw.present(CHILD_ID_HUM, S_HUM);
DEBUG_PRINT("Node and "); DEBUG_PRINTLN("2 children presented.");
raHum.clear();
humiditySensor.begin();
}
void loop() {
measureCount ++;
batteryReportCounter ++;
bool forceTransmit = false;
if (measureCount > FORCE_TRANSMIT_CYCLE) {
forceTransmit = true;
}
sendTempHumidityMeasurements(forceTransmit);
/*
// Read and print internal temp
float temperature0 = static_cast<float>(static_cast<int>((GetInternalTemp()+0.5) * 10.)) / 10.;
DEBUG_PRINT("Internal Temp: "); DEBUG_PRINT(temperature0); DEBUG_PRINTLN(" *C");
*/
// Check battery
if (batteryReportCounter >= BATTERY_REPORT_CYCLE) {
long batteryVolt = readVcc();
DEBUG_PRINT("Battery voltage: "); DEBUG_PRINT(batteryVolt); DEBUG_PRINTLN(" mV");
uint8_t batteryPcnt = constrain(map(batteryVolt,VMIN,VMAX,0,100),0,255);
DEBUG_PRINT("Battery percent: "); DEBUG_PRINT(batteryPcnt); DEBUG_PRINTLN(" %");
gw.sendBatteryLevel(batteryPcnt);
batteryReportCounter = 0;
}
gw.sleep(SLEEP_TIME);
}
// function for reading Vcc by reading 1.1V reference against AVcc. Based from http://provideyourown.com/2012/secret-arduino-voltmeter-measure-battery-voltage/
// To calibrate reading replace 1125300L with scale_constant = internal1.1Ref * 1023 * 1000, where internal1.1Ref = 1.1 * Vcc1 (per voltmeter) / Vcc2 (per readVcc() function)
long readVcc() {
// set the reference to Vcc and the measurement to the internal 1.1V reference
ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
delay(2); // Wait for Vref to settle
ADCSRA |= _BV(ADSC); // Start conversion
while (bit_is_set(ADCSRA,ADSC)); // measuring
uint8_t low = ADCL; // must read ADCL first - it then locks ADCH
uint8_t high = ADCH; // unlocks both
long result = (high<<8) | low;
result = 1125300L / result; // Calculate Vcc (in mV); 1125300 = 1.1*1023*1000
return result; // Vcc in millivolts
}
// function for reading internal temp. From http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/InternalTemperatureSensor
double GetInternalTemp(void) { // (Both double and float are 4 byte in most arduino implementation)
unsigned int wADC;
double t;
// The internal temperature has to be used with the internal reference of 1.1V. Channel 8 can not be selected with the analogRead function yet.
ADMUX = (_BV(REFS1) | _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX3)); // Set the internal reference and mux.
ADCSRA |= _BV(ADEN); // enable the ADC
delay(20); // wait for voltages to become stable.
ADCSRA |= _BV(ADSC); // Start the ADC
while (bit_is_set(ADCSRA,ADSC)); // Detect end-of-conversion
wADC = ADCW; // Reading register "ADCW" takes care of how to read ADCL and ADCH.
t = (wADC - 88.0 ) / 1.0; // The default offset is 324.31.
return (t); // The returned temperature in degrees Celcius.
}
/*********************************************
* * Sends temperature and humidity from Si7021 sensor
* Parameters
* - force : Forces transmission of a value (even if it's the same as previous measurement)
*********************************************/
void sendTempHumidityMeasurements(bool force) {
bool tx = force;
float temperature = humiditySensor.readTemperature();
DEBUG_PRINT("T: ");DEBUG_PRINTLN(temperature);
float diffTemp = abs(lastTemperature - temperature);
DEBUG_PRINT(F("TempDiff :"));DEBUG_PRINTLN(diffTemp);
if (diffTemp > TEMP_TRANSMIT_THRESHOLD || tx) {
gw.send(msgTemp.set(temperature,1));
lastTemperature = temperature;
measureCount = 0;
DEBUG_PRINTLN("T sent!");
}
int humidity = humiditySensor.readHumidity();
DEBUG_PRINT("H: ");DEBUG_PRINTLN(humidity);
raHum.addValue(humidity);
humidity = raHum.getAverage(); // MA sample imply reasonable fast sample frequency
float diffHum = abs(lastHumidity - humidity);
DEBUG_PRINT(F("HumDiff :"));DEBUG_PRINTLN(diffHum);
if (diffHum > HUMI_TRANSMIT_THRESHOLD || tx) {
gw.send(msgHum.set(humidity));
lastHumidity = humidity;
measureCount = 0;
DEBUG_PRINTLN("H sent!");
}
}
Short question from me: my mysensors network is set up with domoticz as a controller on a raspberry pi. I need to upgrade all my nodes to Version 2 of mysensors soon and want to enable wireless programming while I am at it. As far as I understand I do need to use MYSController to update a node, which seems to be a windows only program. Any way I can still use that with my linux based (raspi) network?
@pepson I wont do it because my networks is using NRFs but the kicad files are online, you could just get those and only change the radio part.
Yes you can. Enable debugging (should be default I think) and/or add some output lines in your code and get a usb to serial converter. Connect that one the the RX/TX/GND pins on your sensor and to the usb port of your pc. Or just use something like an arduino uno for your first tests.
Hey,
I am currently working on getting some sensors set up at my place using mySensors. I really love the project, and how easy it is to build (most) sensors. Once I got the prototype running I need "professional" sensors though, which are easy to assemble, still cheap and can fit inside a small box of some kind.
I am planning to use a cheap pcb manufacterer like dirtypcbs.com, so the max size of the pcb is 5x5cm. This also goes well with the box part. I already got some battery holders, so all I need is the arduino + nrf + sensor on one board. Thats why I created my first design, a "motherboard"/shield which contains and arduino pro mini (3.3V) the NRF, a battery sensor and some small stuff. Also breakout pins for programming and an extra one for serial communication. The DHT11/22 can directly be placed on the pcb (because thats my most common sensor). Others sensors can be easily plucked into 2 connectors on the board as another shield. This makes it flexible but also easy to use with most kind of sensors. Power is an external part. I plan to use 3.3V wall power supplies or batteries, so no parts needed on the pcb. Didn't want to make it too complicated.
The design is also only 25*50mm, so you can get two of them out of a cheap pcb.
I am also planning to control lots of RGB(W) leds. Thats why I designed another pcb holding the same arduino pro mini + NRF combination, but also 4 mosfets for the different channels and a LM2596 buck converter module from ebay, which allows me to drive the whole thing directly from the 12 (or more)V power supply for the leds.
I am thankfull for any comments or ideas how to optimize this and any errors you may find. I am planning to order them soon.
A zip with the gerber files. The version 1.3 that I used is already in their store though: http://dirtypcbs.com/store/designer/details/7078/867/mysensors-rgbw-controller-v1-3
Perhaps you could also add a short description how you solved it before this gets closed. Might safe someone the time later on.
Nice project! Although I don't know biltema (doesn't exist in germany I guess) there is a similar project for an IKEA lamp somewhere here in the forum, if you need some ideas.
I finally found the time to update my RGBW control pcb and circuit. I just ordered the new version if you want to try them out.
This time I used kiCad and will upload the new files later (and hopefully finally create the openHhardware.io project too).
I switched to smd parts for mosfets, voltage regulator, resistors and one cap. I also fixed the wrong pinout for the mosfets and switched the CE pin to pin 4 of the pro mini so that now four real pwm pins can be used to control the RGBW outputs.
@mfalkvidd Ups, right there is no BOM yet. I will have to add that. Wanted to do a new version with a cap parallel to the CR2032 anyways. Most components are marked on the PCB though if you need it now.
And hek is right, that is exactly the pir I used. These cheap PIR kept going crazy after some weeks of usage though. Currently I am testing the molgan (ikea) conversion
It uses much more power. The arduino can't handle that so you need an external power supply. It might also need shielding. There are many threads about that in this forum. Just search for them.
Create a mysensor node with 3 switches for the 3 leds. Then use domoticz to script it so that the timings are right.
@GertSanders Thanks, that seems to be the easiest solution.
I am still working on the board so any mistake you guys might find... tell me
I finally got around to post the RGBW controller part on openhardware.io. Here is the discussion thread.
@Justas said in 
Soil Moisture Sensor Pro Mini:
Hi, again,
OK, one more question: if you have desoldered regulator, I do not see any voltage step up booster? The batteries will go low eventually, but you could use with the booster little longer...
Info from the same https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery
But the booster will also use some energy itself and it introduces noise which in my experience really creates problems with the NRF. Imho its better to simply skip the boost converter as the nrf and arduino both work down to 1.8V
Hi,
I have read in the last patchnotes that rgb(w) leds are now officially supported. How do I use this type of sensor (or actor?!)? Are there any examples or texts about this?
Thanks for the help!
Guys, I need some help here (again). I have build a RGBW Controller (schematics in the pdf or my openhardwareio project) that uses the 12V for the leds and an AMS1117 to create 3.3V. I also added a 22uF cap at the output (like descriped in the datasheet).
When I started the node with the 12V input and no LEDs connected yet it seemed to work for some seconds before the AMS suddenly got really really hot and now the input and ouput pins of the AMS seem to be connected (at least my multimeter says so) and it output ~7V.
So I am pretty sure the AMS overheated and got destroyed. It's only powering the pro mini and and NRF24L01+ though.. do you guys have any idea how this could have happened? I really hope I can fix the error on my boards as I want to use them as soon as possible
Request is the way to go as far as i know. You also need to implement the method handling incoming messages though to work with the answer. There are some threads about requesting values from domoticz in this forum. (Haven't read them) but imo there are some values that can't be requested from domotizc so better check that and maybe change the variable type.
Hey,
I am trying to lern kicad and want to start porting one of my existing mysensor projects to it. I found the official github page here and an installation guide here.
I just don't really understand it (the fact that I am currently using windows for my pcb design work doesn't seem to help either).
So I downloaded the edit_parts.pro and cloned the mysensors_symbols github. I added a local user variable in windows pointing to the mysensors_symbols and a path in kicad with MYSGITHUB and https://github.com/mysensors-kicad.
What do I need to do now to add the libraries to all my projects?
Where do I find this "Footprint Libraries Wizard"? I only have a footprinteditor button in the start menu (although I am using the german version so this might not be 100% the same).
Thanks for your help guys!
Ok the issue seems to have been a broken AMS. I just finished a second pcb and that one is working. The AMS gets hot but not so hot that you can't touch it any more. Seems to work now 
Now I just have to test the lighting part
Ah thank you for the hint. I have changed the description. I had only been using signing so far so I overlooked that detail.
Well great to hear that you solved the problem. There are version 2.1 and 2.2 of mysensors as of now that can be used too so maybe update again?
Ok I have finally figured it out. You need to open the "PCBNew" pcb designer part of KiCad -> "Einstellungen" (Settings) -> "Footprint Bibliothekswizard" (Library Wizard) -> Github Repo... (insert https://github.com/mysensors-kicad). That makes them available in the PCB editor.
For the Eeschema editor you need to go to "Einstellungen" (Settings) -> "Baubiliotheksdateien" (Partslibrary) and add a custom path to your cloned git repo. Then you can "Hinzufügen" (add) them in the list above and use them in your project.
Perhaps this helps someone in the future. Not the most intuitive part of the program yet^^
I finally found the mistake (with some help). The pins for the mosfets were switched. I rotatet them and now its working perfectly. Smooth dimming and switching between colors is really cool. New pictures are on my openhardware.io project page.
Now I need to get some more features for the code (linear fading, remembering the values after restarts...) and then perhaps sometime in the future a better (and fixed) version of the pcb.
I am still using several temp/hum sensor and they are running great I also have just added code and pictures for my newly build light sensor (using an LDR).
I am not sure if I really get your question, but sure mysensors (or specificly the NRF24L01+) interferes with anyone else using the same frequency (like all senders do). But I haven't had any problems with any other devices (not even WLAN) and you can always switch the used channel to something else.
Other devices also interfere with the nodes. I have read in this forum that some users had problem receiving when the microwave was running
So short answer: yes, but normally it shouldn't really matter.
@pansen said in Noob questions: MQTT, openhab, Orange Pi, Arduino:
My questions
- I only need to install the openHab binding from here to see the Arduino-LED test thingy in openHab?
- What would I need a MQTT gateway for? Because technically it is a serial gateway no? (since SPI is a serial protocol) Or does serial gateway only mean RS232?
- What would be the advantage of a MQTT gateway?
- I have read about an openHab cloud service which allows you the control/checking via Internet. Should I use this cloud service or try to expose the orangePi via DDNS?
Thanks already!
pansen
Hi and welcome, I will try to help although I am not using your setup.
@sundberg84 said:
@Lars65 - yes there are a couple of posts about the smd nrf module.
I have tried a batch of 10 myself, 3 left and they work well (i think they work even better than the regular ones). It was a bit of a technique to solder them but as anything else - you learn.
As I will be soldering some too soon: how did you do it? Any tips?
@Terrence The box is around 10cm by 6cm. There is an new image in the openhardware project.
I also added this image and two others (for my third version of the gateway) to the project. This one has a 433 Mhz sender and receiver on it and acts as a gateway between 433 Mhz and the MySensors protocol. That way I can control some outlets and buttons.
I have created my own sensor baseboard which can be used with pretty much every sensor and which is quite similar to the sensebender. I have 3 of them running right now (one plant soil sensor, one humidity/temp sensor and one motion sensor). Battery life seems to be fine with a coincell although perhaps not perfect yet. During the next days I will add it to openhardware.io and write about it in more detail here.
For now the code and schematics can be found here: https://github.com/OliverHi/MultiuseSensorPlatform
@sergio-rius A little late, sorry, but that depends on the mosfets you are actually using. I am driving ~5m strips of white leds with most of my controllers and they don't even really get hot.
There is also a big(ish) update from my side concerning this project: I have designed, 3d printed and tested my own case for the controllers and they work great. I have just added the stl files and some images to the project page!!
For now this project is done from my side. The controllers have been working great for the past 2 years but due to the "huge" (~1s) delay with my Mysensors network (with signing and openhab on a raspi) when switching the leds I am currently testing some MQTT and wifi based RGBWW controller boards as an alternative.
I just reported some of my issues in the github repo. There might still be some errors there.
I'll try to help solving them as best as I can as @TimO 's work with the integration into openhab 2 seems pretty awesome too me
I am trying to switch to openhab anyways and am not that bad at developing in java. Perhaps I can be of some help there.
Here are the gitHub issues
Dimmer not working
Things definition not working
I will try to upload the changed pcb tomorrow. Today I added my sensor platform that I am currently using with a motion sensor to light up a room when someone enters.
I will also try to add some pictures of my current setup soon.
Here is the sensor platform: https://www.openhardware.io/view/261
As mfalkvidd says: the "normal" digital value only shows up as a switch. You can add the analog pin of the sensor as a counter in domoticz (and add a water symbol). Take a look at my code here.
Ok I'll answer my question here as I found the error with some help:
it has to be
nodeId
// not nodeID
@hek said:
KY-040 is a combined rotary encode/pushbutton
Ah thanks, and the caps are called "Rotary Knobs".
I do still need to find a good looking case that can be used with these buttons though. If someone has build something like that already some ideas would be welcome.
Domoticz lists the nodes as hex imo (and also adds the child number at the end). Have a look at your gateway in the "hardware" tab. It should list the right (the same as in your sketch) node id there.
Perhaps I am misunderstanding your idea but if you want a node to receive messages while sleeping... no that is not possible. To receive anything the node has to be powered up. I guess the only idea would be to regularly wake up and wait for messages (which the other side could only send in these timeframes).
I just received mine and did some testing. As I don't have an rfxtrx433 (thats more than 100€ :() I used a cheap 433Mhz receiver and the RC-switch library. It receives a unique code for every button. You have to press the button pretty long though (not just touch it once). Was it the same with yours?
Also do you have any idea if these buttons all have unique codes? If this work I want to get more that one
Here is the output of one of the buttons of my switch, in case someone needs this:
I already have (in a github issue). Didn't get any answer yet. I am currently trying to simply use some other type of sensor (as I just need to send an integer) but none of them have really worked yet.
Afaik the debouncer doesn't work with sleep(). Try without or just do something like a
gw.wait(5);
before reading the value. At least I had the same problem and fixed it like that.
I do speak german, though for me the only problem is the availability of components. While sometimes they are easy to get in the UK or the states it might not be that easy in the rest of europe.
I guess I could translate some stuff if there really is some need. For technical terms online translator tools tend to work very well though.
I'll test some more the next days. Thanks for the feedback though!
My long press is also more like 1-2s max, just not a single touch. Pressing it any longer just keeps sending the same message. Haven't tried it without the protective film on it though, perhaps that changes things.
@Marco-Avallone Please use the code syntax for your code snipet. Like this it's very hard to read. Also why do you use caps so much?
For me your question isn't clear. What have you tried to actually do that did not work?
Hope that helped.
@hek Thank you, it's working again. Glad I could help (finding a bug )
I am not sure if the fields are what actually interferes with your NRF24. The module is just very dependent on a clear power source. Step up regulators often generate much noise though. Adding some caps might help though. There are also some tips about building some kind of low pass filter to prevent this somewhere in the forum.
I would just try to remove the voltage regulator and run the pro mini of of the 2 batteries though. Both mini and NRF work down to 1.8V (with the right fuses).
If its really the electromagnetic fields some ground plane or a metal enclosure might help as far as I know.
@meddie said in Encryption, Signing and OTA is there any how-to?:
if i understood it correctly, i have to use the securitypersonalization.ino on the gw. For the first time i upload this code
When its uploaded on first run i will get the AES and HMAC Key, which i have to notice and safe securely.Then i have to upload the sketch again with this code:
in the second code i have to place the Keys which i got on first run.
after this i can upload the normally gateway sketchis that correct?
thank you very much
As far as I understand it you can generate and safe the keys in one run (not 100% sure about that) on the gateway. Afterwards you install the normal gateway sketch.
And you also have to use the personalizer sketch on every node to add the HMAC/AES keys.
This is really a topic where we need an easier step-by-step tutorial imho. Perhaps once I find the time for it I'll experiment some more and write such a guide myself (will take some time though).
I just bought an ATX breakout board that can be connected to the 24 pin cable from an old power supply. It has bindings post with gnd, 3.3V, 5V and 12V. Very easy (and safe) to use and set up.
@Anticimex I already download the pr... the new sketch looks very nice! I'll try it out tomorrow.
I have finally found the time to upload the project here. I really like it so far although I am still trying to make it even better
I will try to make due with one high power gateway (+ possible repeaters) then. Thanks for the feedback though!
@gohan 433Mhz will be used too to control some old outlets. But most of my pcbs are designed for the nrf24 so I'll stay with that for now.
As far as I know Mysensors is build to be used with a controller. I am using Mysensors with Domotiz and HA-bridge. That works very well with alexa to control my lights.