Topics created by LastSamurai

@LastSamurai I am afraid so. Or rely on encryption.

Ok I'll answer my question here as I found the error with some help: it has to be nodeId // not nodeID

Ok, thank you!

Ah perfect! Nice to hear that. I'll give home assistant a try then.

I already have (in a github issue). Didn't get any answer yet. I am currently trying to simply use some other type of sensor (as I just need to send an integer) but none of them have really worked yet.

OK newest update: my gateway stop working at all today. I did not even get any reactions on the serial port. So I tried to reprogram it => no reaction either. I had to manually reflash the bootloader and load the normal gateway sketch (without the 433Mhz stuff again). So I guess there is some kind of overflow somewhere caused by the code. The normal gateway sketch runs without any problems. No idea where the error is yet.

I always got the same behavior. The ID should never change after it was first assigned, You need to flash the erase eeprom sketch to get rid of it.

@LastSamurai many of the esp8266 pins are special. I have run into a lot of trouble when using the ones that aren't marked as "safe" to use in Kolban's book. Some more information: https://forum.mysensors.org/post/63039 https://forum.mysensors.org/post/49193

I have finally found the time to upload the project here. I really like it so far although I am still trying to make it even better

For a very long time I’m looking for an application where the NRF24L01 + will be, but I can’t find it. So if someone tells me I will be grateful.

Hmm.. I didn't even know that feature was available. Must be something new since the last update. I've made some css changes (one file which is applied regardless of theme selected) to allow the main site header, but I only adapted this for the default theme. Would be really hard to make this work for all themes as they have different font sizes and behaviour.

PS Tried another radio (again) and another usb Port to power it and now everything is working. Thank you

@mfalkvidd Thank you, I guess I will use the ESP then. Or perhaps I will try to write a script to use MQTT with the serial gateway... why add another network layer (WiFi) if you don't have to...

Just made a MySensors PCB for the "VHOME" touch switch/remote from Aliexpress

@LastSamurai looks like there was a bug in thr Arduino IDE, see https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/601 Try upgrading the IDE and see if it helps.

You cannot skip the capacitor when using a radio with a CR2032. Just use a good quality ceramic one to limit the losses.

@vladimir there is an example for using rotary encoder on this page: https://www.mysensors.org/build/dimmer

@hek said: Someone just needed to kick my butt. Always glad to do that

@LastSamurai Here is the code for my PIR and Light sensore node: https://github.com/abmantis/MySensors-Sketches/blob/master/MotionLightSensor/MotionLightSensor.ino It is a bit complex, sorry. Also, ignore the temperature parts since that is a WIP and is untested.

@LastSamurai serial number is only used for whitelisting. If you use soft signing you need to configure the personalizer to store it and it should be unique for every sensor board. If any node (or gateway) require whitelisting, your node will use the serial as salt for the signature and the receiver will look up the serial in its local whitelist if it finds a match for the node ID of your node and do the responding salting to verify the signature. I'm other words, if you use whitelisting, you have to match the whitelists with the serials of the nodes that communicate. The signing documentation describes how to do this. From your logs, however, I would say it is a hmac mismatch. The verbose debug will show if serials could have been the problem. Typically by asking if the sender is in the whitelist.

Ah, great hint! It seems like I have to change the high fuse to "Preserve EEPROM memory through the Chip Erase cycle" (see fuse calculator). I will try that out.

I built a dimmer for my sons bedside lamp -> https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4808/dimmable-led-actuator/15

@AWI said: @LastSamurai I can find a lot of these even on main stream sites Thanks a lot! My bad, I did look for KaKu (and overlooked the NL part ).

@chrille Thanks, so a higher quality tools seems to be the better choice (like always^^). Does anyone else have any ideas?

@mfalkvidd Thanks! As energy harvesting doesn't seem to be "there" quite yet I will stick with both coincells and the 18650 lithium batteries as alternatives for my project (depending of the needed energy and space constraints of the single boards). Rechargeable or harvested power seems to be the only good solution for larger quantities of sensors in my opinion. Does anyone of you know where to buy cheap 18650's that don't explode and don't lie too much about their capacity

hi. mysensors is compatible with sot version only for the moment. other package not yet if I'm right. sot version isn't i2c sot version use one pin only.

Hi. I have not so much experience with pir modules. I use an homemade pir, which works well and I am doing my own software for programmable features like nb of pulses for validating a trigger, blindtime etc..And it's a coincell board without any regulator, so.. But in your case, what I would do..(and it's easier with a scope !), is: LC filter, and you could add one capa before inductor too in some case, and maybe in this case, it's better to place the LC filter near the chip you want to clean (like radio or your pir module for instance). This is when you have enough room. But when you have not enough room, so it's easier to place the LC filter just after the booster, for all the board. use a good PSRR etc LDO for you PIR module. I think if you power directly the PIR module from the booster, without LDO that could be difficult..because of the mV PIR variation of analog part. Having a good ldo could help to smooth a bit too.. adding multiple, different small capa value near your pir module, for smoothing some frequencies...And you could add a 100u to absorb some voltage fluctuations too. So, you have to choose values for capa vs frequencies you want to filter. And another thing too, you need to choose the right inductor, they are not all equal..(datasheets curves and frequencies you want to filter ...) I hope this helps a bit

Well it looks like that doesn't help Btw I am using the "normal" cheap 5V ones from ebay but soldered the 3.3V directly to teh small "H" pad at the side (worked without problems from a good power source). Any other ideas guys?

Thanks for your help guys. Got it up and running now I used the pulldown resistors but did not use the current limiting resistors at the gates. Afaik you don't really have to but I will add them in my next version. @Admin I think it would be a great idea to update the build part for the leds to also use these resistors and perhaps add some text for RGB(W) leds as there is support for them now.

@hek Thank you, it's working again. Glad I could help (finding a bug )

@emc2 I updated the footprint on github (and yes, I also chose the easy route, and swapped pins 1 and 2 on the footprint)

@scalz Thanks a lot! I sure do. It's great to see that others (which gave me a lot of help here) can use my work too @carmelo42 Thank you too! Here is the link. They are running just fine like this but remember that the CR2032 battery holder mounting holes on the pcb aren't perfect yet (see project page).

Ok the issue seems to have been a broken AMS. I just finished a second pcb and that one is working. The AMS gets hot but not so hot that you can't touch it any more. Seems to work now Now I just have to test the lighting part

Great news! Thanks for reporting back.

@mfalkvidd Thx, this definitly saves some Google time.

@sundberg84 said in Synchronizing actions between nodes: @LastSamurai - are you using the webgui to switch? I think its rather quick using a motion detector -> light/relay. Using the gui though takes 2-3 sec. I am using both, the web ui, and a motion detector node + a rule setup in domoticz using dzVents. For the motion sensor its hard to tell how fast the reaction is though, because I don't know the exact range of it. Perhaps I'll try with a button node next, just for testing purposes. PS and the ui isn't that slow. Sometimes it takes a little longer but mostly just ~half a second.

@mfalkvidd said: in MyConfig.h you should be able to define it in your sketch before #include <MySensor.h> Overriding defines from sketch only work in the development branch. It requires a source code inclusion "hack" that's not in place for 1.5.x.

With regard to 5V periphery I ordered [1] http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7243167912.html [2] http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7248371073.html Both have quite high cut off voltage i.e. they will not boost if voltage drops below certain value, I believe i's like 2.4V #2 refused to work with my servo motor at all, so I don't recommend it. #1 is sort of OK but you need 3 AA cells to make a good use of it unfortunately.

@sundberg84 Yes, thank you. I have just reflashed to another sd card hoping that it runs fine now (and it does for now). I will check the domoticz version later. I am currently running 2.3530, although I don't know if thats the same one as before the crash. I just did not know what else to do when I cound't reach the pi via ssh^^ Bad idea I guess.

Ah that makes sense! Sometimes you forget the easiest parts^^ I guess I will try the nano first, the other one is quite expensive (>= 30€)

@m26872 said: I've low power hacked APM and bare bone 328p. As I think I've linked from here, at 1MHz (internal) 9600 baud was the maximum and each baud rate required their own bootloader version. To do it easy I just used precompiled Optiboot for this. Thanks you, thats a very interesting read! I will try some of that myself.

If you are going to let the node go into sleep between sensor readings (f.ex. Wakeup every 5 minutes or so) you don't need the troubles of switching to 1Mhz. When you sleep the atmega, you also turn off the oscillator for the MCU. So it doesn't use any power. In fact one could argue that it will result in a longer wake time if you are running at 1Mhz instead of 8Mhz, due to the slower execution speed. And so it could end up using the same amount of power, as when running on 8mhz. This is however untested/unverified, and just a theory that I have..

@LastSamurai said: I love the project and I want to "steal" your work. I just realised that I forgot the "don't" there. I fixed that.

I can confirm that the mysensors "adapter" for domoticz does not update anything for a sensor if the value has not changed - including last seen time. There has been a bit of a discussion about it and I have a bug and feature request in for it to be a configurable choice for the user - but as it stands - if no change in value then update is ignored. I modified the mysensors adapter code to always update - even if values haven't changed - but that isn't really a long term solution since it gets overwritten on every update. https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=9272

@LastSamurai, Very nice project you have here! Thank you for taking the time to post/share your work! At first I thought it might be exactly what I was looking for, but reading through everything now I am not so sure. I have been studying various ways (Wi-Fi, 433/315 Mhz RF, MySensors) to implement controlling RGB lights and I initially thought Wi-Fi (while readily available, easy, and cheap) might be too "slow" in response time, which got me thinking to use MySensors (with NRF24) instead, which led me to this thread (among others). Something concerned me though, I see in your GitHub for this project you stated: Project frozen/final - This project is done from my side. It has been working for years but I switched to another solution so I won't update this anymore. and on your OpenHardware page: Update2: They have been running for about 2 years now mostly without problems. The only disadvantage is that my Mysensors network overall is quite "slow" (~1s reaction time). I am currently experimenting with Wifi RGBWW controllers (H801) so there wont be to many more updates to this project Which made me want to ask you what you are using now? It seems to me that those MagicHome type Wi-Fi (or RF) RGB controllers would be pretty hard to beat price wise, I don't think I could implement similar functionality (including packaging, etc.) for the same amount of money, and that's before even counting my time. Also I am still struggling with reliability of my MySensors network in general, but I hope to be able to still solve this as it seems that many others have been able to (but that is a different subject altogether).

Thanks for the help. I got it to work. I posted a link to the code over here.

Ok I found the error. I may or may not have forgotten to add the serial addon It is strange though that you get no kind of error message without that...

Hello, I just started off trying to make a few sensors, Just like you i only had uno's and pro mini and no nano. Read this article and thought everything would be fine, but. So i loaded up the sketch onto an uno and plugged it into my vera loaded the files but Vera Serial port configuration dosent detect anything. Any idea how to get that working?