My Project

@gohan alkaline batteries in general have been tested quite extensively and don't deviate much from the S-curve characteristics.

The low power node is now working as intended, the addition of an extra 47uf for the nrf power pin (there are two there now so a total of near 100uf) and an aditional .1uf on the LE33 power pin has made the node stable. It shows just how fussy the nrf can be about its power requirements. I have made the changes to the wiring diagram in the previous post to reflect these additions. Have also now had a chance to compare the graphs of the two nodes in Domoticz and the low powered node with voltage averaging seems to give a much better result. In the following pictures you can see the steady drop of voltage over time for the low power node and a more zigzag line for the original node. Will not know for sure until I add averaging to the first node, maybe the extra power draw is also affecting the reading. The original node [image: 1509918567429-graph2-resized.jpeg] The low powered node. These are both connected to the same vehicle at the moment. [image: 1509918629434-graph1-resized.jpeg]

@Yveaux Thanks, i will have a look at it

Go with the Z19. Here's some ready made code: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6528/mh-z19-co2-sensor/5

So I started picking at disassembly of the mower project in the first steps of it's restoration. I will work on it slowly over time. So, this is the old deck, minus the front pieces that broke off. It is a sheet of acrylic that I got for free. While disassembling parts from it, I had a number of screw posts from standoffs and some screw posts from some rusty eye bolts that broke off in the plastic. I had originally thought about cleaning it up and getting some acrylic glue to put the pieces back together, but the more I think about it, I will check prices on a sheet of lexan or plexiglass and make a new one. Acrylic is brittle, which is why pieces broke off. Lexan and plexiglass are a little more flexible. [image: 1509813780223-upload-de6f932a-13c5-47b6-96e6-3d84d6f555be-resized.png] And here is a pic of the basic frame with the drive wheels still attached. It is a bit rusty, but with a sand blaster, some primer and a bit of paint, I think it will clean up just fine. [image: 1509814154015-upload-83c21e9c-65fe-41b2-8ba7-c65e5d89e6df.png] I have some more pics from the tear-down on my website if anyone is interested. https://dan.bemowski.info/image-gallery/nggallery/robotics/Mowbot---First-Steps-In-Restoration

Maybe it's just a matter of using the proper firmware as bootloader, like uboot or some openfirmware like image in the rom chip, then calling the linux os from a usb unit.

@Suresh-Mali I recall from discussion back that using a Linear regulator like 7805 at the end of this sort of power supply is almost always a bad idea. Here every design use Zener for a reason. Zener will only dissipate heat when there is extra power available. Linear regulator will always dissipate power leaving less available power for your application.

@gohan said in Assistance on sensor project: While you are at it, get some extra parts too, just in case you fry something since in the beginning it is not that hard. And they're cheap.

the heater for my house started to overheat. I think I will put a high temp metal sensor the airflow just to watch it. Thanks. I too was happy nobody was hurt

Hi, I started building this great idea of solar powered soil moisture sensor. Not integrated yet in a solar light as above, but still on my desk. I tested the sensor in salted water and I get a report of 78% moisture : based on your experience, is it normal ? Then I pushed the sensor in a very humid plant pot and read 71%. I would have expected mroe differenc ecompared to salted water. So, would you advise to caliber ? I guess I could modify the calculation formula in the script.. Precisely, is it possible with Mysensor technology and Domoticz to push to a sensor a new setting (for instance to caliber using Domoticz each different sensor) ? And another question.. Is it possible to ask Domoticz to show the result of moisure reading in the Weather or Measures category rather than in the Temperature menu ? br, Ricorico94

... this approach seems that work ! #define ACKDELAY 40 //seems 40 millis is a good value bool nodeACK = false; void SendData(byte sensor, byte destination, bool value, bool ack) { msg.setSensor(sensor); msg.setDestination(destination); for(byte i=0; i<=ATTEMPTS; i++){ if(send(msg.set(value),ack)){ Serial.println("Gateway ACK"); // wait(ACKDELAY); if(nodeACK == true){ Serial.println("Node ACK"); nodeACK = false; break;}else{ Serial.println("Node NACK"); } }else{ Serial.println("Gateway NACK"); } wait(ACKDELAY); } } ... in combination with this void receive(const MyMessage &message) { if (message.isAck()){ nodeACK=true; digitalWrite(LED_PINS[message.sensor], message.getBool()? LED_ON:LED_OFF); Serial.println(F("ACK recieved LED Status Changed")); } ... but probably is not the most elegand way! ... because if during the send/ack back message duty cycle, an ack from an other sensor received, a conflict may occure! i do not feel safe! (i also have a feeling that i did that post in the wrong topic! :confused: )

Esp8266 can still be used as gateway with on board sensors, just in case...

@TriXwooD RFLink MySensors support is limited, receive mysensors messages only if I am correct. You can ask Stuntteam from RFLink active on domoticz forum for example: https://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=19435 (seeing double replies, soory, time is wrong on this machine and that screwing up temp files, caches and ceritificates :-)

@Newzwaver you can find the needed files here

I was thinking to have it powered with battery and solar charger but lot can go wrong with this setup, may be best to have it powered via proper power supply, i have ordered sensor and i will build this once i get that delivered and report back, i was thinking to calculate co2 footprint as well for gas usage. @dpcr said in Gas Meter Reading Using a Magnetometer: @pihome I power mine with an adapter as well. This node sends too much information to be battery powered. I was researching solar because the sensor sits outside on the south side of our home but never followed up on it. Maybe for another day.

@mbj said in Rain sensor: @jumping Unfortunately I had no time to look at anything last week and i will not be able to do it the next cople of weeks because of travelling but I promise it will come. I assume that you also have seen the code for a rain sensor at the Mysensors forum but if not take a look there in the meantime. I know this is a different solution but might be of interest anyhow. No problem :-) thanks

Just wanted to throw this out there as I was revisiting this post today. This could pretty easily be modified to have a digital display with buttons to adjust temperature, and a 5A solid state relay. This would allow you to completely replace the mechanical thermostat. My thermostat replacement was nearly $40 after shipping, and it's rated at 5A so those 5A relays should work just fine. This would be a cheaper replacement for the mechanical thermostat and would give you better temperature control. Maybe better temp control isn't needed if you're just using for a freezer, but if you're a home brewer and trying to keep fermenters at a constant temperature, this would be very useful. You could even add PID code to it.

BRAVO, nice job.