My Project

@brendanl Sounds like you're speaking from experience... I've never worked with a Daikin system, but I have had my share of similar problems in my years of working on electronics..

@jeremushka I haven't done it on the smart outlet but I did do it on my "Whole House Fan" project. You can check out the code from that if you're interested. Here is a link to the video if you wanted to check that out: https://youtu.be/KVsUe7sOCPo Also, just make sure you check out the specs on the acs712 and don't pass through more current than is safe. I don't remember the specs off the top of my head but I knew my whole house fan was safe because of what it would be drawing

@Nca78 said in First go at a smallish TH sensor that can be deployed anywhere.: At what voltage are you running your sensebender micro ? Using 2x AA batteries (3V) Current multimeter reading is 2.75V, reading on Vera is 57%. Looks like reading on Vera is out. I've stuck on a sticker with today's date to see how long sensebender will go on, probably a few years.

by looking at the picture the voltage is measured near the battery, so I'd say it is the battery voltage

@raulandresmoch The 3D design is for the Easy Newbie PCB designed by @sundberg84. The board carries an arduino pro mini and the nRF24L01+ radio.

@mfalkvidd YES!!!! That was the problem!!!! Thank you so much!!!!

@Newzwaver I think that makes sense. D3 on Wemos D1 Minis is GPIO0. I usually use the Dn notation, because I find it easier to understand.

@ben999 just for the record... =! is wrong. Should have been != Makes quite a difference :(

Re: LCD Clock and Text sensor node with new V_TEXT Hello , I have done the same exercise also with the LCD 4*20 and use the same program. It is great. It works but only I have the first line with the date. The lines 2,3,4 are empty. In Domoticz my V_TEXT are created and filled in. It seems that I can not read correctly the information LCD_line2, LCD_line3,LCD_line4 [image: 1510218377649-screen-shot-2017-11-09-at-9.56.27-am-resized.png] [image: 1510218402874-screen-shot-2017-11-09-at-9.55.50-am-resized.png] we can see that on the line READ , the text is V_TEXT but nothing is received. Why ? [image: 1510218423240-screen-shot-2017-11-09-at-9.50.27-am-resized.png] Thanks

@gohan alkaline batteries in general have been tested quite extensively and don't deviate much from the S-curve characteristics.

The low power node is now working as intended, the addition of an extra 47uf for the nrf power pin (there are two there now so a total of near 100uf) and an aditional .1uf on the LE33 power pin has made the node stable. It shows just how fussy the nrf can be about its power requirements. I have made the changes to the wiring diagram in the previous post to reflect these additions. Have also now had a chance to compare the graphs of the two nodes in Domoticz and the low powered node with voltage averaging seems to give a much better result. In the following pictures you can see the steady drop of voltage over time for the low power node and a more zigzag line for the original node. Will not know for sure until I add averaging to the first node, maybe the extra power draw is also affecting the reading. The original node [image: 1509918567429-graph2-resized.jpeg] The low powered node. These are both connected to the same vehicle at the moment. [image: 1509918629434-graph1-resized.jpeg]

@Yveaux Thanks, i will have a look at it

Go with the Z19. Here's some ready made code: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6528/mh-z19-co2-sensor/5

So I started picking at disassembly of the mower project in the first steps of it's restoration. I will work on it slowly over time. So, this is the old deck, minus the front pieces that broke off. It is a sheet of acrylic that I got for free. While disassembling parts from it, I had a number of screw posts from standoffs and some screw posts from some rusty eye bolts that broke off in the plastic. I had originally thought about cleaning it up and getting some acrylic glue to put the pieces back together, but the more I think about it, I will check prices on a sheet of lexan or plexiglass and make a new one. Acrylic is brittle, which is why pieces broke off. Lexan and plexiglass are a little more flexible. [image: 1509813780223-upload-de6f932a-13c5-47b6-96e6-3d84d6f555be-resized.png] And here is a pic of the basic frame with the drive wheels still attached. It is a bit rusty, but with a sand blaster, some primer and a bit of paint, I think it will clean up just fine. [image: 1509814154015-upload-83c21e9c-65fe-41b2-8ba7-c65e5d89e6df.png] I have some more pics from the tear-down on my website if anyone is interested. https://dan.bemowski.info/image-gallery/nggallery/robotics/Mowbot---First-Steps-In-Restoration

Maybe it's just a matter of using the proper firmware as bootloader, like uboot or some openfirmware like image in the rom chip, then calling the linux os from a usb unit.

@Suresh-Mali I recall from discussion back that using a Linear regulator like 7805 at the end of this sort of power supply is almost always a bad idea. Here every design use Zener for a reason. Zener will only dissipate heat when there is extra power available. Linear regulator will always dissipate power leaving less available power for your application.