My Project

We are of like minds, Don't like the cloud based controls (that's another discussion). In my case I have a Bryant/Connex system, heat pump, variable speed fan and 4 zones. There's a lot going on: the 4 zones creates 16 profiles. The fan speed for a profile will depend on the indoor and outdoor temperature. The thermal fluid pump also has to be controlled. A profile will have an optimal air pressure, so there's a sensor there. The controller works just fine not being connected to the cloud. But I want to set the parameters remotely, Bryant/Connex can do this. I also wnat the status of the various actuators and sensors to show up in Home Assistant. The signals sent over the RS422 are proprietary. My plan was to reverse-engineer the signals. After doing this I'll have to experiment to get the right mix of air pressue, fan speed and thermal fluid flow for each profile. I'd like to do the same for my AO Smith heat pump water heater. I'd like to follow your progress. OSD

The output of the display could also be sent over serial, but the whole idea is you can walk around with the doctor and improve your results as you go.

Hello everyone, Firstly, I apologize for reviving such an old thread, but I find myself in a unique situation and was hoping some of you might be able to help. I hope everyone's doing well. I have a specific inquiry that I couldn't find a recent solution for. Does anyone here know of a tool to generate "fake" Dooya remote (DC90) RF codes for curtains? I've acquired a few motors without controllers and am trying to integrate them with Home Assistant and Bradlink RF remote. Specifically, I'm searching for a way to generate codes for the Up, Down, Stop, and the "Set" button functions to configure curtain limits. Any insights or guidance would be immensely appreciated. Thank you so much in advance!

@Kokosnoot good solution. I remember the discussion in the early days of MySensors. I've powered the radio's for most of my sensors from the 3.3v regulator on the arduino board and for me that works perfect. But for my latest designs I decided to add a separate ams regulator for my radio's like the guys suggested in the beginning. Because you basically want the on board regulator to power the mcu only.

@adds666 I'm not sure but I believe Domoticz prresents it's dimmer values in steps from 5 to 100 I believe. It'd about 10 steps. That's why I'm not sure if you can add more patterns. Unless you indeed change it to a percentage. Hope it helps

@pbw a gateway's function is to act as a gateway between the nodes and a controller. I don't think you will have all of the needed memory available to add logic to the gateway and you will make your solution very static. You can implemented your own lightway controller, just have a look at the Serial API. But controllers like Domoticz are lightweight and the already over a browser based interface. And most of them are easy to setup creating a much more versatile and dynamic solution.

@DeepCore That is a need looking design. Did you consider using an alternative power supply other than usb? My Pi can't handle a lot of usb devices power wise, so I'm using a powered usb hub. But the wife doesn't like it, it's messy xd

@bach It does look really great! As far of resistor divers I'm not much fan of that. There are several other options, like a logic level converter circuit with FETs. If I have all 3.3V devices connected to an mcu I prefer to use a 3.3v mcu. Like an esp2866, but I'm still waiting until the irq support on the esp2866 gets available. For me the nrf24's are still working great and I have a stacked up a lot lol. I'm however experimenting with the rfm's. As I need a bit more range to reach the end of my backyard.

@patrick-schaerer can I use same code file for measuring current only using sct-013-030 and at other end I'll use other sensor to read ac voltage and with the help of that I'll calculate power. I'm new on this. Just start learning and I'm using esp32 instead of Arduino. Please share your suggestion on this. It will really help me to learn .

@henkoegema said in TinyBME - ATTiny85 + NRF24l01 + BME280/I2C: @Wim-Oosterhof said in TinyBME - ATTiny85 + NRF24l01 + BME280/I2C: I was attracted to the idea of having a wireless hum/temp sensor and so I built this. I prototyped it on a breadboard, and I also soldered it on a PCB. I extended the antenna with a 8.3 cm wire. But I can't get it to work stable. Sometimes it works for many hours and sometimes only for one hour. And then it just hangs. A reset of the at85 sometimes helps, but most of the times I need to power it off and on again. I need it to work reliably for several weeks. Any suggestions ? Have you got any suggestions? Did you get it to work stable? Or have you abandoned the project?

Hello here is why it does not compile as you want, the library must be MySensors 1.5.4 I tested today the compilation. that's why include<MySensor.h> and not MySensors.h I wish you a good day with my cordial greetings

Offtopic, but I like your bricks on your house

Welcome to the forum @Emmanuel-Abraham See https://forum.mysensors.org/post/99926

@KevinT hmmm, that's really not the case atm. I just ordered the first batch and will report back once I assembled the first sensor. If it's an issue I'll rearrange the footprints. Thanks for the info! :)

Related: https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/1516 The best way is probably to replace the TinyGSM folder in MySensors with the latest upstream version try to upload the sketch and see what breaks Troubleshoot and fix all errors found go back to step 2 for all supported boards and configuration options upstream any necessary changes

@A3V Great thanks I've also bought one and will add radios and sensors to it. Maybe I'll even make the light controllable from the arduino instead, or don't use the light at all. I paid 8€ for this complete light that gives a solar panel, battery and charging circuit. Buying the components is already more expensive I would say

github would be awesome!!