My Project

@Paul-Scarbro There are multitude of solution, but since we are in MySensors Land, let's do a MySensors solution. You'll quickly see that doing that adds a lot of overhead. We'll use an Arduino Nano or RF Nano if you're going to go whole hog. It can be run from 3.3V or 5V DC, not AC. The reed switch would be connected to an input of the Nano and one of the outputs would drive a relay. The relay would drive the chime. Your C++ program would be something like: #define inputButton 2; // connect reed switch here #define outputRelay 4; // connect relay to this pin see MySensors Relay example #define RELAY_ON 1 // GPIO value to write to turn on attached relay #define RELAY_OFF 0 // GPIO value to write to turn off attached relay void setup() { pinmode(inputButton,INPUT); pinmode(outputRelay,OUTPUT); // put your setup code here, to run once: } void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: if (digitalRead(inputButton) == 0) { digitalWrite(outputRelay,RELAY_ON); wait(2000); // wait 2 seconds digitalWrite(outputRelay,RELAY_OFF); // now wait for door to close while(digitalRead(inputButton) == 0) ; //does nothing until reed switch opens } } There are some subtleties that I may have glossed over, but this is the gist. By looking at the MySensors Relay example, you'll see how to integrate this into a MySensors environment. That's where you'd want to get the RF Nano. I've made the assumption you're familiar with the Arduino IDE and you've looked into the MySensors environment.

@OldSurferDude yeah, 10 virgin nodes powered up at the same time is a bad idea I seem to remember reading somwewhere here warning aginst that. If yu have node ID trust issues with Mysensors you should move your address to different locaion as 0x00 is used by Mysensors... just sayin..;)

Hallo! Ich habe gerade meinen Aduino Nano mit einem GY-BME/P-280 verbunden über SPI verbunden. Im Sketch habe ich nur die PINS geändert und zwar auf: #define BMP_SCK 13 #define BMP_MISO 12 #define BMP_MOSI 11 #define BMP_CS 10 Ich bekomme aber bei der Ausgabe am seriellen Monitor nur "Hyroglyphen" zB 5��,�lh����}����'�O8��m�h,� Mit einem anderen Sketch funktioniert der Sensor einwandfrei. Auch mit einem anderen Nano dasselbe Ergebnis. Hat jemand eine Idee was das Problem sein könnte? Zusatzfrage da ich in C++ nicht so firm bin: Könnte es sein, dass MY_DEBUG oder MY_RADIO_NRF24 das problem verursacht. Was machen diese Definitionen eigentlich? Grüße

Wow @Nicklas-Starkel congrats, that sounds great! And thanks for the feedback. Would you mind sharing your setup? Regards, Edi

@OldSurferDude yes, you are correct. this sensor is capable of 50A continuous, which safely I would make it working at 40A max., but for such an important load as in your case I would go for a beefier one, like the ACS75x, 77x, but at this point I would also change the node's form factor for space and insulation reasons. On my application on the RV I have a max. curr. of 13A running on a AWG14-16 cable (European rules for RVs), so I did not ask myself too many questions beside, of course, safety. About the signal, it will be a sinusoidal signal swinging around Vcc/2. Vcc can be easily measured internally on the ATmega328. On all my DC sensors I measure Vcc at every loop, just before measuring the ADCs. Honestly, when the space is not an issue like in my RV, I would rather use a ring core current transformer, and I would get rid of noise, response time, power dissipation, but over all no need to cut any cable. Long story short, it has been a nice experiment and I used it for 6 months, and then I switched back to my RF-NANO based RS485-Modbus - Mysensors bridge connected to an off-the shelf power analyzer. Just for fun I attach a pic of my 12Vdc sensors installed on my RV. Forgive me for the spaghetti wiring on the right side, but this is an area that needs improvement. [image: 1723442333591-img_20231008_120026-resized.jpg]

@OldSurferDude thank you !

We are of like minds, Don't like the cloud based controls (that's another discussion). In my case I have a Bryant/Connex system, heat pump, variable speed fan and 4 zones. There's a lot going on: the 4 zones creates 16 profiles. The fan speed for a profile will depend on the indoor and outdoor temperature. The thermal fluid pump also has to be controlled. A profile will have an optimal air pressure, so there's a sensor there. The controller works just fine not being connected to the cloud. But I want to set the parameters remotely, Bryant/Connex can do this. I also wnat the status of the various actuators and sensors to show up in Home Assistant. The signals sent over the RS422 are proprietary. My plan was to reverse-engineer the signals. After doing this I'll have to experiment to get the right mix of air pressue, fan speed and thermal fluid flow for each profile. I'd like to do the same for my AO Smith heat pump water heater. I'd like to follow your progress. OSD

Hello everyone, Firstly, I apologize for reviving such an old thread, but I find myself in a unique situation and was hoping some of you might be able to help. I hope everyone's doing well. I have a specific inquiry that I couldn't find a recent solution for. Does anyone here know of a tool to generate "fake" Dooya remote (DC90) RF codes for curtains? I've acquired a few motors without controllers and am trying to integrate them with Home Assistant and Bradlink RF remote. Specifically, I'm searching for a way to generate codes for the Up, Down, Stop, and the "Set" button functions to configure curtain limits. Any insights or guidance would be immensely appreciated. Thank you so much in advance!

@Kokosnoot good solution. I remember the discussion in the early days of MySensors. I've powered the radio's for most of my sensors from the 3.3v regulator on the arduino board and for me that works perfect. But for my latest designs I decided to add a separate ams regulator for my radio's like the guys suggested in the beginning. Because you basically want the on board regulator to power the mcu only.

@adds666 I'm not sure but I believe Domoticz prresents it's dimmer values in steps from 5 to 100 I believe. It'd about 10 steps. That's why I'm not sure if you can add more patterns. Unless you indeed change it to a percentage. Hope it helps

@pbw a gateway's function is to act as a gateway between the nodes and a controller. I don't think you will have all of the needed memory available to add logic to the gateway and you will make your solution very static. You can implemented your own lightway controller, just have a look at the Serial API. But controllers like Domoticz are lightweight and the already over a browser based interface. And most of them are easy to setup creating a much more versatile and dynamic solution.

@DeepCore That is a need looking design. Did you consider using an alternative power supply other than usb? My Pi can't handle a lot of usb devices power wise, so I'm using a powered usb hub. But the wife doesn't like it, it's messy xd

@bach It does look really great! As far of resistor divers I'm not much fan of that. There are several other options, like a logic level converter circuit with FETs. If I have all 3.3V devices connected to an mcu I prefer to use a 3.3v mcu. Like an esp2866, but I'm still waiting until the irq support on the esp2866 gets available. For me the nrf24's are still working great and I have a stacked up a lot lol. I'm however experimenting with the rfm's. As I need a bit more range to reach the end of my backyard.

@patrick-schaerer can I use same code file for measuring current only using sct-013-030 and at other end I'll use other sensor to read ac voltage and with the help of that I'll calculate power. I'm new on this. Just start learning and I'm using esp32 instead of Arduino. Please share your suggestion on this. It will really help me to learn .

@henkoegema said in TinyBME - ATTiny85 + NRF24l01 + BME280/I2C: @Wim-Oosterhof said in TinyBME - ATTiny85 + NRF24l01 + BME280/I2C: I was attracted to the idea of having a wireless hum/temp sensor and so I built this. I prototyped it on a breadboard, and I also soldered it on a PCB. I extended the antenna with a 8.3 cm wire. But I can't get it to work stable. Sometimes it works for many hours and sometimes only for one hour. And then it just hangs. A reset of the at85 sometimes helps, but most of the times I need to power it off and on again. I need it to work reliably for several weeks. Any suggestions ? Have you got any suggestions? Did you get it to work stable? Or have you abandoned the project?