My Project

Hi, as a start you could modify the following sketch: remove the flamingo.h include and all flamingo related stuff. https://github.com/windkh/flamingoswitch/blob/master/examples/mysensors/FlamingoSwitchSensor.ino Have a look at the function incommingMessage line 196. Here the message from the gateway is received. Replace 230 with your own code.

And I just noticed the internet has been down at the greenhouse since early Saturday! More reason to have a local install.

I've recently modified the code a bit. Will post an update soon. The way a PIR motion sensor works, is that you can setup the duration of a detected movement by tweaking a potentionometer. That will determine the amount of time the PIR sensor will report back as a motion detection. In reality you know only one thing. There was at least one motion detected that triggered the motion pin of the PIR sensor. Between that period and that and the interval you've setup, there might have been a lot of movement but the PIR doesn't report that back. How I solved that is as follows. I turned the potentionometer to the lowest must interval duration. Whenever the first movement has been detected, it will report that to my Home Automation controller and it will start a timer that is 30 seconds after the detected motion. As my current motion detection interval of the PIR sensor is around 3 seconds, it will give me another 27 seconds to detect a follow up motion. If a follow up motion has been detected, it will reset the 30 second timer. So that has another 27 seconds the time to detect another motion. If however no motion has been detected when the 30 seconds timer times out, it will tell my home automation controller that there's no longer any motion. As most PIR sensors are quiet sensitive, they detect my presence by each small movement a wake. In most cases the movement caused by breathing is enough for the PIR sensor to detect my presence. Hope's this explains is. I've tried it in my best English ;-)

Yes - but you have to protect the arduino from that high voltage. Best way is with a small optocoupler chip (I use EL817 chips which you can get for practically nothing). There is an excellent explanation in the first answer on this post on stackExchange. You may have to adjust the resistors because of the higher voltage. I've included the schematic below (it's a good idea to read the answer though).[image: 1449852329528-lp5m2.png]

Hello, If I want to use this code on Arduino Mega2560 with support of 4 smoke sensors only thing I need to do is to create "arrays" ? Regards, Maciek

@m26872 The link is helpful and I understand now. Thanks

--- New question on this old post This node has started to behave strange. There is three sensors and lux is working 100% but DHT and LM393 stops working from time to time. It can suddenly stop sending these two values for 24 hours, and then they are back online again. Lux sensor works all the time. Havent bothered to do a serial log yet since its outside and working most of the time - but any thoughs anyone?

@korttoma The only difference I see is that you put the entire url with parameters in the first argument of the http.request call and "run=run" as the second (don't know why you have that?). I use the base url as the first argument and the field list as the second r, s = http.request(baseUrl, "field1=XX&field2=XX") Hope that fixes the issue. Also You have to setup the "Channel" and "Plugin" in the website accordingly and name the fields there.

This is a interesting discussion, despite there are no proves that wi-fi its not safe... wifi routers uses so low power that in 20 m and a wall,signal is gone. Myself already serched about problems on wifi ,before have wi-fi and use wireless arduinos(nrf24..) ,but know i think its senseless. before of all you shoud read how this "world" works. because compare nrf24l01 card with wifi is like compare a bicycle with a car... on temperature sensor for example ,each command activate the card for milisenconds and sleep again during 10 minutes (in my case). i guess put your head in to the sun makes more dammage and get more radiation thant this.... :)

Link to the PR in case someone wants to find it later: https://github.com/mysensors/Arduino/pull/261

tsss.... have a look here: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/147/air-quality-sensor/ and here: https://github.com/empierre/arduino/blob/master/AirQuality-MQ135.ino

@Newzwaver All hardware except 433MHz antenna is from MySensors "Store". I found the antenna on ebay and the box for everything is bought here in Sweden (http://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el/elektronik/elektroniklador/ventilerad-inbyggnadslada-95x135-mm-p89012)

Great works - looks awesome! :+1: That said, you shouldn't need the extra coupling capacitor on the NRF24L01+ regulator because the coupling capacitor(s) are built in.

@alexsh1 Many thanks Alexsh1 , I'm using ESP8266 chip with Arduino

Hello Dwalt ! thanks for your quick answer ! My remote is an old style Chacon with 8 buttons[image: 1447313244819-chacon-t%C3%A9l%C3%A9commande-face.jpg] [This remote has a 4 positions dip switch on the back (group 1 2 3 4) so i plan to put my 4 wall plugs on group 1 and my remote on group 2; with that, the plugs will be commuted by the mysensors rf433 emitter and the remote will send codes to my receiver mysensors without communicating directly with plugs] And my receiver is a "cheap" one but i will have a sperheterodyne in a few days (according yours tests) To receive my codes i use RCswitch library and this code: #include <RCSwitch.h> * RCSwitch mySwitch = RCSwitch(); void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); mySwitch.enableReceive(0); // Receiver on inerrupt 0 => that is pin #2 } void loop() { if (mySwitch.available()) { output(mySwitch.getReceivedValue(), mySwitch.getReceivedBitlength(), mySwitch.getReceivedDelay(), mySwitch.getReceivedRawdata(),mySwitch.getReceivedProtocol()); mySwitch.resetAvailable(); } } With this i can read rf433 codes on serial but it don't send in mysensors.. thanks for your help, i wil try to understand how to modify your code

Well, first of all thank you all for the help. I've been doing some tests this days ... also tried with the same configuration a relay node and had exactly the same issue. Well ... as soon as I changed the arduino to a 5V one, everything worked. Project completed. :) Thank you all!!!