My Project

@ Hek , Thanks, I will post a building log in a new thread, for me , since I am very new with arduino and maybe other people can have abenefit as well , since on vera/z-wave there are no (cheap) "IR" - blasters available . Cor

Well I changed the connection type for the sensors due to the above issue. [image: upload-22f96b88-66e7-4431-b337-a78b9637ce05.jpg] Tested and again after 2.5 days, it locked out on a sensor com error. So after some thought, I realized, (not sure why I didn't before) the system is not going to be 100% bullet proof, so instead of moving to a hard fault, I recoded the error handling section of the sketch to attempt to handle the occasional hiccups in reading the sensors. Pushed new sketch to Github and am testing now. It will interesting to see just how many times the readings fail. I shall see.....

Hi have a look at nodered http://nodered.org. Easy to setup work flows and can run on any platform.

@dzairo there is a nice PinChangeInterrupt library that you may want to look at.

I have only used that radio for one node so far - one of the LCD clocks. Its only about 30ft from the controller but it does go though a couple of walls. Communication is pretty much 100% at that range. I used the larger antenna radios for the longer distances - e.g. the garage which is 50ft or so and about 4 walls but its very consistent. Rich

@Yveaux you are right, the worse is when I open it... I see this is not waterproof at all and... [image: upload-2daceb89-1a92-4293-9993-fd9e3532114d.jpg]

@epierre had a quick look at the data sheet. The sensor has a 64 bit shift register which uses a clock signal and serial input. You need to clock in the 64 bits one by one and generate a clock pulse for each bit. Then read out each bit as an analog value on AO, and continue with the next bit. This thing is not i2c, spi nor i2s (audio only), but defines its own protocol. Connect your logic analyzer to clk and si if you like, but you also need an oscilloscope or so if you want to see the analog output values.

I am hoping it will happen soon. There are more and more zigbee only products that would be really nice to integrate into Vera.

Update: Wind up having to buy a oscilloscope to try and diagnose a problem I was having and wound up reworking the transformer board a little. I installed 5 caps in an attempt to clean up the output. 4.7uF/400V Cap between pins 22 and 26 on transformer. electrolytic 470uF/50v Between 5vd Output (electrolytic) 47uF/50v Between 5vd Output (electrolytic) 10uF/50v Between 5vd Output (electrolytic) .1uF/ (ceramic) Installed at the screw connector on the main board (for best results)

You may look at the node js controller. It has database support. https://github.com/mysensors/Arduino/tree/master/NodeJsController Also check out the controller section of the form. http://forum.mysensors.org/category/3/controllers

Thanks @Anticimex - Ill give this a try hopefully tonight. ( ive been away for a few days)

@thumper I am not sure about LiPo and Solar or battery power in general. I had to use two separate 5v power supplies, one for the Arduino and one for the servo. Otherwise the pro mini would reset once the servo kicked in to open/close the blinds. My sketch never sleeps it always listens for commands sent from the Vera, either manually or PLEG commands at dawn and dusk. Hardware List 1 - Arduino Mini Pro v3.3 1 - 220uF Capacitor (NRF24 across 3v and GND 16v+ rating) 1 - 470uF Capacitor Optional (Servo across 5v and GND 16v+ rating) 1 - Servo (Micro 25.0 oz-in [1.80 kg-cm] minimum) for selectblinds.com 1" Faux Wood Blinds 43"x38" 1 - NRF24L01 Wireless Transceiver Module (flat or antenna version) Beaware of power limitations when using the NRF24L01 antenna with LNA+PA 1 - Kimbrough Internal Rotary Drive Control System 500 NIB - connects servo to blind rod (may differ for you blind type and servo used) http://www.ebay.com/itm/291084936296?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 1 - DC power supply you may need to step-up or step-down for the servo 5v and 3.3v for the NRF depending on the Arduino board you use http://www.ebay.com/itm/321408108698?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 is the one I used to power Arduino and servo separately. If you are successful with LiPo and Solar combination, let us know, as it would be nice no to have the power wires hanging. Thanks

Im a happy camper :) A beer later and a yield call in wrong place. Some more delays added on the Due side when sending data over I2C to the Nano, which is acting as a node for these 19 sensors, and all works fine. Without delays on the Due for the wire code I was always missing some values. No delays in the mysensors code needed for handling 19 sensors on a single radio.

ok found, you need the Sensirion Version 2.0 - 10Dec2010 !!! Temperature: 26.12 C, Humidity: 61.71 %, Dewpoint: 18.19 C Temperature: 26.10 C, Humidity: 61.70 %, Dewpoint: 18.17 C Temperature: 26.10 C, Humidity: 61.76 %, Dewpoint: 18.19 C Temperature: 26.10 C, Humidity: 61.82 %, Dewpoint: 18.20 C Temperature: 26.09 C, Humidity: 61.88 %, Dewpoint: 18.21 C

I plan to use also a CR123 for my board. I bought some CR123a rechargeable on ebay but the battery give me 4V when it's charged... is it a problem to give 4V to a 3.3V step up converter? is the "a" after CR123 say that's a 3.7V instead of a 3V or is it just because of the rechargable function? is your CR123 give also 4V when it's charged? Thank's so much Julien

Thanks all for yoruba replies! I also read about mysensors cloud, maybe this is something for me instead of Nimbits. Ill keep you posted here if I get some where whit the Nimbits question.

I prefer we close this thread, for another one exist... http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/291/dust-sensor-1-4/9