Hardware

Just home so opened the Node case and glad to confirm despite ageing my recollection was accurate. This screenshot is common to the PR6/7 using CH2P if it is a undirectional flow. [image: 1569503408884-ad764771-f9db-4636-8556-4dfe0c353137-image-resized.png] Looking at the circuit afresh I see no reason why the internal input pullup of IRQ should not work either through a drop resistor or possibly direct, since all it does is sink the signal, which the IRQ will pick up as Change/Falling/Low. From vague memory of the sketch, mine is triggered on LOW. 1 - Unlike Reed switches (my gas reed duration is ca 6 seconds) mosfets are fast, so the pulse duration is so short it will not register on your multimeter hence the perceived uninterrupted 5v. The PR7 spec you posted says 10ms duration... 2 - If envisaging a standalone radio node such as deployed here, you may be better going with a 3.3v PM to begin with rather than mess about with level converters later... Hope this helps...

@scalz Thanks for the link to the 3.3v USBASP mod! i have been pulling my hair out trying to get bare 328p chips programmed using a generic ASP thank you!!!

@maartend See for the link below. It's one of the first hits when searching on google with the words "BME680 raspberry pi": search terms link Reading a sensor on a raspberry pi 4B can't be much different from older raspberry versions I guess. The OS might have changed with the new version. Python hasn't.

@nagelc - correct, its possible to use without booster - but its harder depending on which sensor you use. If the sensors require minimum 3.3v it might be hard to do without booster, but there are several sensors managing down to 2v or so. The harder part of using EasyPCB without booster is that the BOD on atmega328 chip is normally set to 2.8v so when the battery goes below this the chip shuts down. So you have to edit the fuses and change BOD if you want to use it below 2.8v Everything mentioned here is described on openhardware.io - look for the section Battery without a step-up booster (advanced users)

@dk_iot MySensors is not BLE based. It uses a different proprietary rf mode. nagelc mentioned the previous nrf5 arduino core by sandeep, compatible with MySensors. But the new released arduino core you're talking, is based on mbed, it's not MySensors compatible (would need some work, afaik there is no plan for the moment).

@nca and @scalz Thanks! Very interesting, good points.

@yveaux Thank you

@frankvk Yes, I did a straight swap and now, after over a week, the battery level hasn’t dropped at all.

@benhub if you look at the datasheet of the MX4466 you can see that it's input current is a bit above 24µA which is ok for battery usage. But you have to include the current consumption of the microphone also, the one used only has a max value of 0.5mA @3V in the datasheet, so you can't make it a battery powered sensor with a very long battery life.

Glad to hear it.

@manutremo Activate a forced mode. I bet your sensor is in standby mode right now

@epierre Plus presumably it can be universally applied whether a wet or dry register?

@alowhum thank for the that info . i bought the wrong kinda screen . i will buy another type and try again

@rafael156 said in not working Ethernet Gateway (sensebender and/or nano gateway): To the Sensebender Board with W5100+NRF24: Sensebender can be flashed via Arduino IDE: Bootloader and Sketch Note versions (work): Arduino IDE 1.6.13 Arduino AVR 1.6.18 Arduino SAMD 1.6.12 MySensors SAMD 1.0.5 MySensors Lib 2.3.1 Thanks a lot ! ! ! I've lost 2 days trying to understand why it was not working anymore while uploading the exact same sketch as before ! Last release are not that stable finally.

A small note on my experiences so far. I have settled on using this screen for most cases where I wanted to use a bigger screen for output. Creating small UX-es is awesome. What is also great is that I turn the backlight off after a little while, and then a touch turns it back on again. Similarly, using a touch to turn the screen on and off is nice for when you don't want the screen to shine it's light into the room all the time. I have also gotten it to work slightly faster by creating a better way of handling the serial data it sends. I've also learned that you can send longer strings to it all at once. You need to send the length of the string in the command. I haven't implemented this in my own code yet, but I recently learned about it by better reading the documentation. Something more worrying is that two of the six screens have stopped working. The screens turn on, but there is no serial communication. I believe this is caused by how I handled the screens, and creating small shorts on the back of the screen. My recommendation is to add some non-conductive tape to the entire back to avoid this. Make sure your other electronics don't accidentally touch its back. The resistive touch screen works well, but if there was a capacitive version of the screen I would probably switch to that. Finally, the screen can be separated from the PCB below. It's just attached with double sided tape.