Hardware

@tbowmo very easy if you overlap the frames

Dave Jones tried to do a videoblog teardown of both an Apple USB charger and a fake Apple USB charger, but it turned out they were both fakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wi-b9k-0KfE I think this proves you can't be sure just by looking at something that it's genuine. Not all the counterfeits are obvious.

It would make quite a show at a comicon, not very practical for everyday use 😁

Try a longer sleep time then disconnect sensor like previously said and see the consumption, if it doesn't change unplug vcc of the radio module too.

@ben999 I have a number of switches around my house that I designed myself. They don't have relay control. They just talk to the automation controller and act as basically a scene switch. If you are in the US, this may be an option for you. Here is the thread that talks about it. https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4317/us-decora-style-wall-switch/34 The way I have mine set up, the switch talks to my Vera controller, and my Vera uses scenes to talk to another relay controller on the light/fan/device that I want to control. Many of the relay controllers that I have are Sonoffs. The response from switch to Vera to Sonoff is near instantaneous. The switches that I designed consist of 3 boards. The power supply board, the controller boardf (arduino pro mini + nRF24 radio) and the switch board. The switch boards that I designed is universal and can be made as a 4 button, 2 button or single button switch. I also have 3D designs for the switch plates that I made. These can be found on my thingiverse page. https://www.thingiverse.com/dbemowsk/designs.

Hello. Welcome to MySensors. it's up to you to code that in your sketch regarding your controller if it is used. NRF24 = 2.4ghz. No 5ghz option. it depends on your environment. You can change communication channels in your nrf24 nodes, else there is sub-ghz option.. as far as i remember, w5100 ic has the TCP included, so the enc28 needs more resources. and i think w5100 is more reliable etc. in MySensors, there are encryption and signing. it does what it means ;) this is like asking which color do you prefer? I can tell you'll get lot of different opinions :) on my side I'm using Jeedom for multiple reasons. Best is to compare which one do you prefer regarding your needs. I don't think there is one best of the best.. little trick.. if you need more explanations, I'm pretty sure these topics are already answered on the forum ;)

@scalz I have also another nice design for nrf52 (again, smaller) but actually busy with my job. Can't wait to see your nrf52 version.

I don't have instrumental evidence but again my best guess is that the side opposite of the radio chip is were most likely the EM field is radiated the most, so try to "aim" the antenna side to gateway

Sorry for my NRF24 clone post yesterday. The ACK bit was an issue with the NRF5 platform. I had switched the memory region to handle TX/RX/ACK packages separately. Sometimes the received packages are written in the wrong region. I had seen my testing ACK bit. Now, I have changed my NRF5 code and I can't see no difference between the modules, I have. ACK and timing are exactly at the same level.

@sundberg84 The details and methods to release additional pins are all in the documentation, so not a problem, however my original idea was to have capability to swap over devices, hence my reluctance to do surgery. Low energy use info is plentiful on the 5v pro-mini, the booster is the PIA for low energy, so that will probably be relay controlled in any instance... A steep but interesting learning experience...

@ahmedadelhosni yup. You didn't say this was a requirement ;-)

I decided to fix the broken trace I so naively destroyed while breaking the power LED out with a screwdriver. The image from @tripy really helped to figure out which trace I actually broke. It helped a lot to desolder the voltage regulator as well, leaving me with pads I can solder to. I left the regulator out after the repair since I am running the thing from 5V USB. With the regulator out of the way the correct pad was easily identified. Maybe someone else finds this useful, definitly saved my kitchen lighting project today :blush: [image: 1509309190705-1456860488412-img_20160301_202411-resized.jpeg]

@dbemowsk Printed with Wood PLA. [image: 1509241598797-upload-5157a48d-0efe-4071-8ea3-15f52ee4621f-resized.png] [image: 1509241622457-upload-71d2537f-8eb9-4694-81cf-b9183eda8108-resized.png]

@Yveaux I think that some people deserve to go to jail for that 😁

I agree with @gohan it looks like a nice sensor but it's not available at a reasonable price and doesn't seem to bring any improvement compared to existing sensors like SHT21/si7021 or BME280. Sleep current is low but measuring/average current seems higher than those sensors too.

Thanks gohan, Today my setup in on breadboard and I did not soldered pin of my arduino and my issue comes from bad contact on pin between arduino and NRF24. Thanks again