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💬 2 channel in wall dimmer

openhardware.io last edited by openhardware.io

https://www.openhardware.io/view/308/2-channel-in-wall-dimmer
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Redguy last edited by

Looks great !

Have you measured what the minimum load is for the dimmer to function correctly ? I currently use X10 in wall modules but run in to trouble when switching to LED lights. The load is too small.
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Denke Hardware Contributor last edited by

No i have not tested any minimum loads at the moment, this is one of the next steps
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jeremushka last edited by

Hello, nice project!
does your system may work without neutral wire ?
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Denke Hardware Contributor last edited by

The project does not work without neutral wire
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Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection. I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints. I would make the following changes : put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield : So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.
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@Yveaux Thanks for your response. I guess that's it. I have to burn a bootloader first :-). I have a USBasp Programmer for that. Can you point me to a wiring diagram that shows how to connect the programmer to the circuit board?
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@magpern said in MyQTherm - replace IQTherm heating thermostat: I actually am thinking somewhat in the line of discontinuing mysensors network. It is to much, hacks and tricks, and I forget everything in between sessions. I gave up more than once, also over period of years. Recently I came back again and decided to focus on the heart of the issue, getting my radios working and once you get over that, it starts to get fun again. I can respect if you already moved on to something else. I even cheated on MySensors and installed some 433 mhz devices too , just to get something working. You have to keep your interest in HA alive in the meantime. But the reward is great when you get MySensors working. There are "easier" solutions like Tasmota, 433mhz, etc. but not as customizable as MySensors. MySensors is for when you outgrow those other solutions and need something more custom.
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@scurb This looks very interesting and my factor now to save me from having to create my own :-). I have been planning to do the same thing (although maybe on a smaller software scale) by writing a simple Python server that would pull serial packets off of a gateway arduino (either running mysensors or something I write myself) and pipe this through MQTT to openHAB. I have two questions: How do you interface with a sensor network? Do you go through a serial connection to read the serial packet format (a,b,c,d)? I see several implementations that put the mqtt client directly on the Arduino, but it seems much cheaper for me to just plug it into a USB port to get a virtual serial port instead of investing in a separate ethernet shield How does an item configurations look like for a switch in openHAB? I'm looking to build a toggle switch which toggles light on or off every time it is activated, and I cannot really understand how to configure the switch to allow this behaviour for an mqtt input. Feel free to take the second question with me directly since this might not be very interesting to the others in the forum
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@tlustoch The node is a very simple one. So I never considered boot loaders, as the node would not need changing sketches during it's lifetime. I have boot loading functionality on my other designs, this one is a minimal board. Any extra chip would beat the purpose of the word "minimal". It's a dumb node for a reason
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@rvendrame sorry, I did not see your comment. Yes, it is VERY valuable. Thanks a lot

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