Some more info here:
https://github.com/jdesbonnet/RCWL-0516
...but not any power consumption figures....

Hi everyone.
Some chat on these Pete Scargill's site:http://tech.scargill.net/microwave-for-the-weekend/
It uses a different chip (RCWL-0516) to the other cheap radar modules discussed here last year...

Ive ordered two to play with so will report back in a few months if they work for me.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262783104831

@rvendrame
Stick with it.... My pool controller is the reason I very reason I originally got into Arduino, which led to Home Automation and ultimately MySensors... I've learned a lot in the process and the rewards are great!!

The pH sensor I have is one from IONODE. They do not appear to sell them anymore, but its designed to be installed into a 40mm PVC T-piece and built for constant usage.. Similar to the "Industrial" ones here http://www.cwc.com.au/cat/sensors-probes/ph/
The phidgets site also has a pH sensor which is designed for permanent install http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=36&product_id=3551_0

Not cheap though are they!! I think my ph sensor was about $140 AUD

I made my own temp sensor... I just bought a Stainless steel bolt ( about 30mm long ), put it in a lathe and bored out a 5.5mm hole from the bolt side deep enough to install a ds18b20 sensor and epoxied it in.

The pH probe you have is designed just to dip in the water., take a reading then put back in its box...I have one like it for testing. I guess you could use this type of sensor, by periodically filling a tank with fresh poolwater, take your readings, then drain the water back into the pool... a bunch of solenoid valves to allow the water to flow in/out should do the trick. Or some irrigation poly and some pumps if you don't want to mess with the pool plumbing.

Here are some pics, in one of them you can see the homemade temp sensor and the pH probe installed in the pipework. https://goo.gl/photos/benm5vkpxbZjHEAW7

Hey @Birdy - Jump right in the deep end eh?!! ( pun intended )

I say this as a pool environment is particularly hard on electronics.... and creating a floating sensor, whilst i think is a great idea, will be very tricky to do.

Ive been automating my pool for several years now and i use mySensors to show me metrics ( pool temp, roof temp (solar heated), pH, pump runtimes and the ability to turn it on/off as needed...using Openhab ( and thus my phone ).
There is also a pump to add HCL to the pool periodically as needed
There is some more info and the code here:
https://github.com/mgf909/PoolController_mqtt

Its really quite cool and my friends well impressed ;-)

pH is really hard to do...ive never got it working 100% right....Its a PITA to calibrate the probe and you need to allow for temperature fluctuations.
I hope one day to have another crack at this as well as add ORP ( measure chlorine ) and pressure sensor to the filter to advise when to backwash etc.

I love the idea of a floating sensor..I think this would be quite feasable for measuring water temp, but not really for measureing ph/ORP as those sensors are super fragile, and as mentioned above, getting it waterproof is very difficult.
I once made an RGB LED pool light https://goo.gl/photos/AmFdVfunQVpmsbk18 to be submersed in my pool. Even though its encased in casting resin, water still got into it - i think around the cable...it always worked , but when i removed it ( sold the house ) i noticed some corrosion...

PS: I'm in Sydney....and mySensors is perfect for this project and the 200000 others you will get into!

@hek and team - New site looks great! Well done!

COuld you perhaps just use an LDR - i would presume the RED light emitted is at a different level to that of the GREEN light emitted and thus just MAP the range you would expect each to be at.

You would need to handle ( block out ) any ambient light however...and then you wont be able to see the led anymore...

Take a photo of your board and we can help identify.

I would recommend ONLY using static ip's for "servers/gateways" etc on your network. Only use DHCP for 'clients" ( pc's and mobile devices )Did you try assigning a static address?

Also, do you have any other arduino based network devices already running? If so check the MAC address its already using.. DEADBEEFEED is typically used, and MAC address's must be unique on a subnet (as it says in the sketch) - So change the MY_MAC_ADDRESS to something else.. looks like you may have already - but is 0000DEADBE01 valid?

@clippermiami said:

Thanks, I suspected that might be the case. I hadn't thought of the idea of using a second gateway. Obviously I have to update the Vera drivers, will it support two gateways, one old and one new?

Probably not ;-(

Hi John,

When I upgraded I startup a new gateway on a different channel and move each node over one by one..

I also migrated from Vera Mysensors Ethernet gw ( iboard with hardware hack) over to Mysensors 2beta MQTT client gateway ( iboard spi method) and Openhab...
This way nothing was "offline" for more than a few mins and all metrics continued to get logged to Openhab database..so no gaps in data.
It also allowed me to do the upgrade over several weeks.

Hi @Lars65

Now you have finished dressing yourself, why not consider using a IO port expander rather than 3 arduinos?
Something like:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13601

@mfalkvidd - Nice work.
Q: How close to the sensor does your hand need to be? and can this distance be controlled?

replied to your thread over here:
https://community.openhab.org/t/openhab-not-assigning-mysensors-node-id/12642

@nemik - Really nice work Nemik!

Ill be sure to check this out!

Looks great guys!...especially your ribs @hek - Wish id been able to make it!

Speaking of cooking....there must have been some crazy ideas cooked up on what to mysensorize next??

(i've already thought of and semi built a mysensor meat thermometer...so anything else? )

Well Done MySensors team!
Thanks for your efforts! Ive been using the beta for some time now in production and it hasn't missed a beat!.

Its easier to use ( once you forget the earlier stuff ) and much more reliable!

So to @Hek and everyone who has contributed to the library and the community, thank you!

Hi @thazlett144
..sounds good... and probably looks good ( but i cannot see the images in your post?!? ) - Can anyone else see them?

I think you will indeed find that the temperature is off due to the heat generated by the supply... perhaps put the sensor on a short cable ( which wont be as tidy :-(

If you do put the dht on a cable, be really careful as you may not have the level of isolation you need!!!

Perhaps, forget the dht, and install a PIR sensor instead. ?

As mentioned in the post above, the switches are still perfect - its been raining here in Sydney, and as a result they have been splashed with rainwater, so they do get wet whenever it rains...and continue to operate and look as they did when new.

Hi @mfalkvidd
Ive bought and used the 12mm metal buttons before... they are pretty good in feel/performance.
I've had some installed outside for probably ~2yrs ( undercover, but would still get damp etc.) Ill have a close look at them tonight to see how they are going with respect to corrosion etc.

I've also used some small black plastic ones... they are also OK, but I think I got these from my father, so don't have a link.

Ok cool...

Does it need to be durable in the installation (last many years) or just for the duration of the project? Either way id probably go with a light beam ( IR ) break sensor....cheap and robust.

I got to admit im really curious as to what noises you will be playing to the person taking the shower!

I dont need these sensors... my kids all sing in the shower so i know when they are in there ;-)

There has been some chat about these modules over on Pete Scargill's site.
Seems that using some aluminium foil you can create a shield so there are at least directional.

Here is the thread ( starting at the relevant comment)

http://tech.scargill.net/microwave-radar/#comment-16685

I have not tested this myself yet...