Hardware

Unless you make progress on this yourself you need to do the following to get more help. Post links to the items you are trying to use. Post links to the libraries you are using to achieve this. Post your code. Without the above it's all a shot in the dark.

As a postscript to my own question should someone be looking at similar later, in practice the sensors were found to work perfectly well at 3v3. Described as 5v working, 0.5-4.5v signal range, the effect is pro-rata at 3v3 in terms of voltage but the ADC output is identical for VCC scaling - viz, ZERO pressure is 10% of 1024 the range is 80%

There is already a LoRa library available for both Arduino Board and STM32 Bluepill Board. Using the simple library, the LoRa Module SX1278 is easily transmitting and receiving data packets.

@scalz Hi yes, thanks for your response.

Hello, can you describe how you connected this module to mysensors?

@mfalkvidd the one that stops at 2.7v I once broke my head over it, then it saw I was looking at the automotive datasheet...

@NeverDie i can speak for arduino side im not sure how it works for CircuitPython. virtual hard drive part is only true if there was a bootloader prior to update. im not sure how nordic ships their dongles but i think they dont install adafruit bootloader inside of them :) so you need a fresh bootloader install and it is easy but you need jlink for that. after connecting your jlink to nrf52 open the arduino from menu find jlink for adafruit nrf52 and then just simply click install bootloader and voila it works with arduino. but then again that usb dongle wont work seamlessly with adafruit bootloader because im sure adafruit has different pin maps you just need to check their pins from variants file and match them on paper to the dongle so when you write your code you know which ones to use, unless theres a seperate variants file specifically made for this dongle.

@skywatch do Fluke meters work unattended in enclosed cabinets or walls, using varistors for power supply 24/7? As I've said I prefer using a better power supplies with built-in over-voltage protection. As for how it is achieved without a varistor you can find plenty information by yourself using google.

I haven't ordered from them post covid-19 , but they used to be very reliable.

Nice work @thedutch, thanks for reporting back. In case you need anything similar, https://www.mysensors.org/apidocs/group__RF24SettingGrpPub.html lists the co figuration options for the nrf24 radio.

@eiten Yep, already saw this one. Based on the heltec implementation, the sx-registers are mapped to specific memory regions of the mcu. Would be interesting to have here a complete ASR-specific documentation...

@leroyl, @nagelc: Please check out this thread to get you started. @nagelc oh, true, I got some E78 somewhere around... I gotta search them :face_palm:

This sensor is used here also https://github.com/rikki78/AirQuality

@mfalkvidd Well, there are http://www.ebyte.com/en/product-view-news.aspx?id=550

@cloolalang If you can possibly avoid it, then power line is not the way to go. It turns your whole house wiring into a giant antenna and then some. Your neighbours can also be affected by this as there are currently no requirements for electrical (power) distribution systems to have chokes or filters of any kind.

https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9717/everything-nrf52840?_=1596113022839

@alowhum There will be a wealth of information out there on the net and probably also at your local library. look for resources about remote cabin power systems and also even the larger 5th wheeler type caravan systems will be helpful reading. You will also need to check your local building codes to see if there are any rules to be adhered to. When we built our house (about 15 years ago, long before i discovered MySensors :) we ran a low voltage backbone cable throughout the house. From this backbone we ran smaller cable drops to every room in the house. Many of these are still not in use but as others have said the cost of running wires is relatively cheap when you are building. Of course we still have mains power as well and use the low voltage system to compliment this. In those initial years the 12v system was used primarily for lighting systems such as night lights etc. As time progressed we installed 12v outlets in the bedrooms and these now are used to power bed/reading lamps. The small 12v downlights have also proved to be very easy to convert over as well. These were initially halogen bulbs but now there is a good range 12v LED replacements for just about any type of socket. Once I discovered MySensors and home automation then the 12v system became even more useful now powering several nodes and even the gateway. Right from the start we ran our system from a battery with solar charging and in 15 years it has never let us down. Voltage drop will always be a thing to watch, but with LED's low power draw and as you have surmised the ability of arduinos to run well below 12v it will usually be of little practical concern. Unless of course you are thinking of running more than lights and nodes.

I made pcb for it it's on the roof of my flat, will dig trough my archives to see if i have kicad project for it.

@monte said in Looking for a 12-24v DC to 5vDC converter: don't expect 3A from those exact small modules No, I don't need it. Only a little bit (far less than 1A) for the uC + radio. In this case I am just looking to power the uC off the same power supply as LEDs which have already reduced the mains down to 24VDC. I just thought it would be silly to have yet another power supply for the uC (coming from mains I mean), in addition to the one that's already there for the LEDs. So I plan to "piggy back" off that one, getting the 24VDC down finally to the 5VDC or whatever is needed for the uC + radio. But it is very nice to have such a wide range of inputs (and adjustable output!) available, for as yet unknown future projects / needs. Especially when finding nice and inexpensive module like this, and order some 10s of them from China and just keep them on hand! :D