Hardware

@JohanH - thanks for your reply! I also hope and think people who build commercial products have knowledge of this :) But as a hobbyist, there are two ways to go - either you dont have to care or go bare minimum, if something happens its your own fault, or you can try to make is as safe as possible. My idea was never to make this thread a information source for a commercial product. I wanted to try to make my own products as safe as possible since I have children around. With that in mind, i want to be on the safe side of things so some things i use from here might be exaggerated. But my PCB (HLK-PM01 breakout) is working great, and I feel safe. I have had it outdoors (under roof covered in IP5* box, -20 to +30 aprox) and its been working for me for a couple of years now. Better than I had before, when i just stripped an old fake samsung charger. /Andreas

I know it's a bit late reply xd. You could watch Ben Eater on YouTube. He has build a breadboard computer and explains how it works. He explains it great.

Hi, By the PCB silk I was wrongly thinking that the module could be on of "RFM69" or "RFM69H" or "RFM69W" and "RFM69HW". Now if I understood correctly the diagram, the module can only be either the "RFM69W" (low power 13dBm) or the "RFM69HW" (high power 20dBm). Since this module has the "H" marked it should be "RFM69HW" and that is confirmed by the other side of it, because it has the two additional black ICs. Thanks! [image: 1610358722780-rfm69-2-resized.jpg]

Thank you for your answer I'm trying to compare with only pro mini and rfm69 on a test plate, and 2 AA batteries. I have strange result, and i'm doubting about my multimeter. I'll continue testing and will tell you

@lood29 Interesting. Looks like I can cut the threshold way down. I'll give that a try.

@fifo Well done! - probably the new module needed a little extra power and the power brick was already failing so this pushed it over the edge. Failing psu can be difficult to diagnose until they fail completely, especially if encapsulated. Power supply and cabling are usual suspects in this type of work. Well done and good luck with the rest of the project!

In my use of bistable latching relays, where the state of the relay position is information that must be tracked, I have found it to be easiest to use an optocoupler (H11AA1 or PC817C) to feedback the state of the relay position, which is polled at bootstrap. If you have multiple states to read at boot, you can use something like the TCA9548A multiplexer to accomplish the state read and to set your volatile state variables appropriately, and save on your μC pin count.

I have been doing exactly this recently. Though my CO2 sensor was 3.3V. But a solution could be powering the sensor with the VIN 5v pin and using a level shifter for communication. That's what I did with the 5V screen I used (though I didn't need a level shifter). I also added a lithium battery with a charging and safety circuit hooked up to a boost converter making it 5V and connected that with VIN and GND.

@mfalkvidd many thanks for coming back. I think I'll keep more complex things seperate, however will explore multiple binary sensors and relays on the same node. Thanks

@skywatch that's good to know, thank you

https://www.tindie.com/products/electronutlabs/papyr-nordic-nrf52840-epaper-display/

Yes, no real EERPOM, but emulation in flash. EEPROM failure was the first finding when checking for this error message. Maybe somthing else... Now complete sketch is ported from AVR ProMini to STM32 and is runnig fine :+1:

@DECOMEDICAL said in Network with nRF24l01 modules: hello thanks for the reply ... x <= 10 What do you suggest me? I suggest that you start reading and learning on this site and then begin building. We don't know the ranges between nodes and gateway nor what sort of data you want to send, so learning what mysensors is and what it can do for you is the only option.

@andrezibaia LoRa has by far the biggest link budget, so if it can't manage it, probably nothing else can either, assuming similar transmit power. Also, you may find that your best signal path isn't straight through 5 floors of reinforced concrete but rather bouncing the signal off an adjacent building or the like.