Hardware

Thanks guys, I have one of those modules I will test it out. I have been playing with a combination of 0.1uF and 10uF. It has been performing decently so far. Let's see.

@mfalkvidd Thank you, I will check out the battery page.

@mfalkvidd You mean I should try 2.4.1? I will do that today or so and report back. Thanks.

Any ideas?

@bjacobse Thanks. In the end i removed the solder that was shorting out the capacitor and it now outputs 5V. Not sure how safe it is after the overheat As an experiment I cut the track to take the LED out the circuit. This reduced the current from 2mA down to a few uA.

I really don't know, I can't help you much. My sugestion would be to back down to a simpler sketch like blink, use the standard arduino ide and try everything. Just then move to more complex projects like roller shutter.

Sorry. Forget it. It was just some misunderstanding in the mycontroller UI. I just saw that my sensors were in state "NEW" in mycontroller. I had to put it into state "REGISTERED". Don't ask me, why I thought that it worked via USB — I now think, that it never really worked, maybe i read the wrong line and saw another sensor in the list.

@mfalkvidd said in Atmega328 internal temperature sensor (yes it exists!): hwCPUTemperature() sorry, stupid question maybe, but with my 328p based sensors hwCPUTemperature() is not automatically callable using just #include <MySensors.h> --> neither with 2.2.0 nor with 2.3.0 Do I have to include /hal/architecture/AVR/MyHwAVR.h ? Cannot compile it, what path should I use in the #include statement? :white_frowning_face:

@badisensors see the earlier answers here.

@neverdie It's a new J-link but I did update it to the latest version when I unboxed it. Like you say - I must be close, but something is definitely wrong. For my next test I'll try connecting wires directly to a naked NRF module. I do have some NRF Prototype modules and some different modules other than the Ebytes. At least if they all give me the same result I know the problem has got to be at the PC/Programmer end. I do also have an ST-Link V2 which I may as well have a try with.

I'm not familiar with the Adafruit bootloader. Going to have to take a look at that. For use with MySensors, you don't use a softdevice. Take a look at this thread if you haven't already: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9266/guide-nrf5-nrf51-nrf52-for-beginners

I don't understand. Using the Micro:bit with MySensors is something I got working in 3 minutes with the normal NRF5 capabilities built into MySensors?

so I got my nrf52840 dongle :) I was able to run mysensors node and serial gateway using MyBoardNRF5 nrf52832 board. So far so good :) I was also able to upload the sketch using usb dfu, it required minor changes to the linker script although. But from the first tests it appears that the range of the nrf52840 dongle i less than the nrf51822 board I was using before :(

@scalz Mycontroller works fine, I just tested it with Dualoptiboot and last package version (ask in the forum).

Not making too much headway with this. Chips arrived, soldered on the the reverse side of the easypcb. Not able to get any sign of the flash being seen. One odd thing, the physical solder pad for the flash chip, pin 6 on my boards isn't connected to sck of the arduino pin 13 at all, just a bare solder pad. I've bridged this with wire, still no luck. Hmmmm...! More experiments ahead, good fun!

@zboblamont I think the safety point is highly debatable these days. I can see why the isolators were installed in the 60s, but with modern bathroom fans, this is an obsolete. As I pointed out, it is not required to be installed by the Building Regulations (at least in the UK). Anyway, back to the topic, I'll have to check but I am sure the relay has to be placed behind the isolator socket box. The isolator itself will be buried behind a shelving unit

@benhub Short answers, No, Yes, Yes The regulator will use power if connected. If your circuit is power hungry then removing the regulator will have limited effect. The sparkfun schematic on the article that you listed notes to disconnect the regulator for low power, so the advice is consistent. Unless you are using the genuine sparkfun versions of the pro-mini where the jumper can be cut then physically removing the regulator is recommended. [image: 1542936368860-arduino-pro-mini-v14-regulator-part-resized.png]

I changed all my radios to rfm68 exactly because poor range.probably you are on middle of a 2.4ghz signal war. Take a look on your wifi neighborhood.probably there's a lot of 2.4 signal already ,masking you small nrf24 signal.... And then all ebay ones are fake... Just make a try with 2 rfm69w and you never touch an nrf24 again. 😎