Thanks for the reply. I am not looking to use an LCD, although that may be the best solution. For now, I plan on creating a simple set of LEDs and buttons.
I have looked over the code, and was wondering which part of the code is retrieving the status of a sensor? What if I have multiple motion sensors, how would I retrieve each unique value?
I didn't think the voltage drop would make enough of a difference to notice, but i guess it does. I might have to research and look for a more efficient Mosfet.
@NeverDie Thx for appreciating the work done. There will also be an open source part in the future. When and how extensive the open source part will be, remains to be seen. The release of certain information (block diagram, ..., in this post) is related to those open source parts.
There are some OBD solutions, however most of them (in my experience) give back low frequency data put by the car manufacturer on the OBD-bus (CAN, ...). Therefore transients evolving directly from the battery could only be recorded if the manufacturer sends those data accordingly on the bus. Due to the small bandwidth(also because of other car data that have to be sent, ...), such battery data are sent more often once per second or less. Fast battery events (i.e. cranking events, ...) are therefore imperceptible. Unless the manufacturer processes the fast events and then sends them (once per second or less), which is very unlikely if the manufacturer does not market this feature itself. Third parties devices for high frequency sensing costs several hundreds dollars.
In my experience, important battery states (especially the fast ones) are recorded by measuring and processing corresponding data directly on the battery.
I agree with you about the limits related to the communication over Bluetooth. But i think Bluetooth 5.0 will improve a lot. However, WiFi will always remain an important option due to the high data throughput. The combination of both (BLE & WiFi), especially with regard to energy consumption, will gain in importance.
@mfalkvidd said:
I am using them at 12V so the power would be ~4W. Not too much but still enough to get the sink hot!
The voltage makes no difference. 5A is still 5A.
you are right brain fart
@samuel235
I'm using genuine atmel programmers (currently I'm on jtagice3) been serving me fine for the last couple of years (also have the added benefits of being able to work together with gdb, so I can debug arduino code on my atmel sam D21 mcu)
Anyways, there are lot's of (cheaper) programmers out there, amongst others you could use another arduino as programmer..
