Posts made by activemind

@jeti Thank you. Unfortunately havent had a chance to assemble the boards yet. Have all the parts in but life gets in the way

-AM

Damn! Just realized some of my parts are still not in....

Anyways, looking at the PCB,

1. I think some of the text is just too small, like the cap values and OSH silkscreen. I need to make them bigger if I do a next rev.
2. The mounting holes are a little too big. This is lightweight PCB and should not need heavyduty M3 screw. I could probably go with smaller mounting holes.
3. Some silkscreen on the back would be nice...else it just looks naked

-AM

PCBs are in....

Time to populate them now and see if they work

-AM

Couldnt wait for the other (activeRGB) PCB to come back.

Sent this one to fab as well...

-AM

Ok, so the board is routed. This was fun....very crowded board...at least by my noob standards

Done all DRC and connectivity checks...looks good.

-AM

Another update from Itead...PCBs complete and shipped!

Cant wait to get my hands on my first PCB

-AM

Thanks @mfalkvidd for the link. I feel more confident that this might work.

Didnt get a chance to work on this for past couple of days. Maybe soon...

-AM

@mfalkvidd said:

@activemind those boxes are 56x95mm on the inside (I have lots of them). They have mounting points in the corners, about 1.5mm from the inner wall. The outer diameter of the mounting points is 5.5mm and the inner diameter is approximately 2mm.

Thanks for the measurements @mfalkvidd . I am still debating about increasing the PCB size though because I looked at one of my existing boxes with the DC connector I am planning to use, and I realized that I need little more space because the connector extend out.

Still playing with the placement on the PCB but looks like I have everything in place for now. Lets see what happens when I try to route it!

The only thing I am concerned about is will placing the comparator IC underneath the pro mini cause any issues?

-AM

@dbemowsk said:

A little off topic, but what PCB software are you using to do your illustrations and layout? It looks like nice software. Is it for windows only or is there a linux version?

I am a KiCad beginner. I started like a couple of days ago and this is my second PCB. Waiting for the first one to come back from fab house

-AM

Debating about changing the size to 5x9 size so that it can fit inside a 5x10 box like this

-AM

redid some of the placement and changed the resistors to horizontal mount from vertical.

looking better...I guess

-AM

Also, thinking ahead about routing this board. Is it okay to do a GND pour on one side and 12V on the other?

-AM

Initial placement is done and this is what it looks like....very crowded board. Had to place the comparator underneath the pro mini, is that going to be an issue?

So I managed to finish the schematic and and posting it for people to look over.
Features:

1. 1 input and 6 output - 12V
2. Easy hook ups for Voltmeter/Ammeter display.
3. Voltage and current draw fed back to arduino as input.
4. Hardware based overcurrent protection with latch feature.
5. Fault status can be reported back to Controller.
6. Switch to turn supply off.
7. LED indicators for power on and fault.
8. All easy solder through components.

Comments?

-AM

Nevermind, found the answer. Just put another FET in there with fault signal driving the gate.

-AM

@activemind said:

I need some help from one of the hw guys.

I have arduino PWM pin driving the gate of a FET like so many other examples.

I have another signal called Fault which is active low.

Now I want to and the two signals such that when fault becomes active (becomes 0), the FET is forced off.

Whats the circuit for that?

Thanks
-AM

I need some help from one of the hw guys.

I have arduino pin driving the gate of a FET like so many other examples.

I have another signal called Fault which is active low.

Now I want to and the two signals such that when fault becomes active (becomes 0), the FET is forced off.

Whats the circuit for that?

Thanks
-AM

Received an update from Itead. Everything looks good in gerber files. They have sent it to fab.

Now the wait starts...

-AM

Or maybe do 1 for the entire board and forget about per channel. Maybe thats the right approach!

-AM

Thinking out loud here but would it be better if I put connectors for current measurement on the PCB for connecting something like this or should I put the ACS chip on the PCB?

The advantage of using a module is that populating it can be made optional, so you can jumper it if you dont want it on one of the channels. So it would be possible to have like 4 channel out of 5 that report and 1 that does not.

Plus the cost of the module and bare chip is the same, so I dont think there is any difference from that point of view.

-AM

@mfalkvidd said:

I am using them at 12V so the power would be ~4W. Not too much but still enough to get the sink hot!

The voltage makes no difference. 5A is still 5A.

you are right brain fart

Or maybe ACS712.

But both of these need Vcc=5V. I was hoping to use a 12V powered IC so that I can reduce some circuitry.

Nevermind, I would need 5/3.3V for the arduino/NRF anyways so this should not be an issue.

I still need to findout if there is a multichannel version.

-AM

Looking some more into it I am thinking of using ACS713 current sensor for this board.

But it has just 1 channel and I am going to need multiple of these if I want to do like 4-5 outputs.

Does anyone know of such chip that is similar but does multiple channels?

-AM

@mfalkvidd said:

Yup! I have them on order from China. Will try but I think I need to perforate the box too. Its drwaing ~5A which is amlost 60W. Maybe a little too much for a totally closed box!

Most of the power will be dissipated in the lights. The power dissipated in the FET is the FET's resistance * current^2. If you are using a IRLZ44N FET I think that means 0.025 * 5^2 = 0.625W if you give the FET a signal of 5V. (0.025 ohm is the Static Drain-to-Source On-Resistance from the datasheet)

Heat dissapation in the lights is another issue I need to look into because with this new batch I ordered, they have been turning off after like 5 mins and then come back on by themselves. I think the heat sink on this new batch is not that good because the last batch did not do this.

I am using them at 12V so the power would be ~4W. Not too much but still enough to get the sink hot!

-AM

@AWI said:

@activemind are you dimming the led or only switch it? A (swich) fet in full saturation should have an internal resistance of less than 0.1 ohm. It would be hard to get it heated that much with a current in the range of 1 amp..
It could well be that your fet is not in full saturation. Take a look at the data sheet..

I am dimming as well as turning them on/off. There are 6 such lights on this FET and when all are on, the draw is around 5A. I am guessing thats a little too much for this tiny heatsink in an enclosed box. Need to change the heatsink and perforate the box.

Thanks for the datasheet reminder. Let me go back and check whats the power I am dissipating when dimming these lights.

-AM

@mfalkvidd said:

This might help a bit http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-Free-Shipping-Aluminium-TO-220-Heatsink-TO-220-Heat-Sink-Transistor-Radiator-TO220-Cooler-Cooling/32684240364.html

Yup! I have them on order from China. Will try but I think I need to perforate the box too. Its drwaing ~5A which is amlost 60W. Maybe a little too much for a totally closed box!

-AM

Update: The landscape light are programmed to come on in the evening and they did not turn on this evening. Further investigation yielded this:

The FET was touching the plastic case and melted it

-AM

managed to add the OSH and mysensors silkscreen I was thinking. Here is the final silkscreen...

Kicked off a thread here about a 12V distribution box. Basically takes input from a 12V power supply and provides 4-5 12V output with a VA display.

Just got done sending off my first PCB to Itead. Its a RGB LED driver using 12V supply. Once again, a shout out to @Samuel235 for his constant feedback and support during that project!

I think it would be cool if we can make this 12V distribution box smarter(MySensor aware). I am thinking of doing a PCB for this so that we can report the current draw on each of the ports and maybe control (on/off) each of the ports remotely too.

Project in investigation phase currently but I need to keep busy till my other PCB shows up from Itead

-AM

Done! Sent the files to Itead for processing

Lets see if the boards work when they come back!

Thanks for all your help @Samuel235 and @scalz

-AM

Looked at the silkscreen file and I had pulled up the wrong file in gerber view. Here is what the correct silkscreen looks like:

-AM

@Samuel235 Hmmmm, let me go back and see what went wrong with my silkscreen. My impression too was that it would show only the txt but when I file showed something different I put it up for review Glad I did.

Also, looking into OSH silkscreen!

-AM

Here is what the gerber view looks like -

Front Gerber:

Back Gerber:

Front Silkscreen:

Comments?

-AM

@scalz said:

yes.
as you can see, it greatly simplify your old gnd routing. guess if you had started by doing this
and then, in future design, it would be possible to use vias if you need to fill some area where you can't have gnd because of other routing. same plane things for power etc... be careful, never put a gnd pour for AC lines, avoid when you can under antenna etc... there are some basics & advanced rules. but you will learn

I will have to read the above comment multiple times for it to sink through

I tried to place NRF sticking out of the board so that there is no GND plane below the antenna. Do you see an issue in the PCB pic above with respect to antenna?

-AM

@Samuel235 Thank you once again for all your help and feedback.

Here is what it looks like after a GND pour on the back.

I really want to add a OSH and Mysensors silkscreen on the front or back but I will have to learn how to do that. Am I getting too ambitious here

-AM

Reading some more and playing around with the tool I "think" I understand what its trying to do.

So I created a "pour" on the front for GND plane and the PCB now looks like this:

What do I want to do on the back? Create another GND pour?

-AM

@Samuel235 Thanks for the advice. I will try to do it.

Also, what fab house would yuou recommend for 2-3 prototypes and then maybe I can shift it to dirtyPCB. OSHpark?

-AM

@scalz Thanks for your comment. ..means I need to read some more. I am not sure I completely understand the concept yet!

I tried uploading my kicad_brd file at OSHpark and it looks good, though I am not sure about solder mask.

I think I should not rush and read up on ground plane and soldermask before I submit the file for fab.

The nice part about OSH (even though its pricier than dirtyPCB) is that it takes pcb file directly so I dont have to deal with the various formats....or am I mistaken and the info is embedded in the file?

Let me go read more about GND planes and see what I need to do.

-AM

I am asking if I should do it, keeping in mind that this is my first PCB and I want to keep it simple.

Based on what you said above, seems I can skip this step and just generate the gerber files and send them off to dirtyPCB. Is that right?

-AM

The next step. I am looking at this tutorial and it talks about fill area and what not. I have no idea whats the next step.

Do I just generate the gerber files and I am done or there is some filling step reamining?

Still trying to wrap my head around this!

-AM

Moved around some routes and I was able to fit in M3 screw holes. I think this puppy is done now.

Whats the next step? What is all this copper filling?

-AM

Are M2 screw mounting holes okay or the standard is M3?

-AM

@activemind said:

@Samuel235 said:

Just make sure your trace spacing conforms to that of the board house you are using. Board houses have minimum size and spacing rules, comply to those and you'll be good to go.

If there is no need to anchor it down, no terminals etc then you can get rid of it. However you have screw terminals there and then therefor i would advise to have a mount around that point. I normally attempt a M3 screw hole, which is around 3.5mm needed for the screw to pass through.

What is the size of your mounting holes now?

Hmmmm! The module I am using is called 1pin in KiCad and on measurement its around 4.5mm dia.

Am I making the holes too big? Let me see if there is some std module for 3.5mm holes.

-AM
I take it back! I searched some more and found mounting hole 3.5mm footprint and it matches exactly what I have!

Looks like I will have to move some stuff around to make some more space for the mounting holes

-AM

@Samuel235 said:

Just make sure your trace spacing conforms to that of the board house you are using. Board houses have minimum size and spacing rules, comply to those and you'll be good to go.

If there is no need to anchor it down, no terminals etc then you can get rid of it. However you have screw terminals there and then therefor i would advise to have a mount around that point. I normally attempt a M3 screw hole, which is around 3.5mm needed for the screw to pass through.

What is the size of your mounting holes now?

Hmmmm! The module I am using is called 1pin in KiCad and on measurement its around 4.5mm dia.

Am I making the holes too big? Let me see if there is some std module for 3.5mm holes.

-AM

And here is what it will finally look like:

Comments?

-AM

Here is what the PCB looks like after routing. Still some cleanup and checking to do but almost there...

You can see that 4th mounting hole (right top) is outside the PCB. I had to move it temporarily so that I could route it. Now I need to make it smaller or drop it alltogether!

-AM

Thanks for all the feedback and holding my hand while trying to do this first PCB @Samuel235

It was fun routing the board with 20mil power(12v,5v,3.3v) & GND and 10 mil for rest of the signals.

But its done now.

Question: How big of a deal it is if I have 3 mounting holes rather than on all 4 corners? Or is it better if I make them smaller? Whats the std size everyone uses for mounting holes?

Found an issue! The footprint I had for LE33 was wrong! pins 1&3 were reversed!

Fixing and rerouting now..

Board is almost routed...

Just a couple of connections for MySX connector left.

Next step would be to silkscreen....no idea how to do that

-AM

Ok, I will go back to 12 mil for power and gnd and 10 mil for other signals.

-AM

Is it okay to route most of the power signal on the back and keep GND and everything else on the front?

General routing recommendations? (doing it for the first time

-AM

@activemind said:

@Samuel235 Thanks. Wouldnt have been possible to come this far without your help and feedback.

Going to try routing soon, I am thinking 10mil for normal trace and 80mil for 12v/5v/3v3/GND.

Does that sound right?

-AM

80mil looks too fat
How about 60mil?

-AM

@Samuel235 Thanks. Wouldnt have been possible to come this far without your help and feedback.

Going to try routing soon, I am thinking 10mil for normal trace and 80mil for 12v/5v/3v3/GND.

Does that sound right?

-AM

@Samuel235 Looks fine to my noob eyes

Here is a view from a different angle (I also fixed my 3D model paths)

-AM

Played around with the placement a little more and I think I am happy with it now as this layout gives me space for silkscreen label and mounting holes.

I also got rid of the 2 pin jumper as it didnt really serve any purpose. Now LM317 always outputs 5V which is stepped down to 3.3V by LE33. Depending upon 3 jumper position you can use 3v3 or 5v pro mini. MySX header has both 5v and 3v3 so you can power the sensors off of that.

Trying to fix the github arduino pro model because I dont think its correct. There are 4 extra pins which are not there in the sparkfun model. Also, my 3D drawing does not have a different color compared to PCB. Need to fix those.

Anyways, here is the updated layout.

Once I cleanup all of the above and incorporate feedback (if any), I can start looking at routing the board (which I have never done earlier).

-AM

Looking better after I fixed the cap and resistor footprints...

Do I need to be concerned about arduino footprints if I got them from mysensors github?

Need to add labels now and size the PCB?

-AM

@Samuel235 said:

@activemind, learning is the name of the game

Very true! Once again, thanks much for active feedback!

-AM

@Samuel235 said:

We could do with someone getting involved that has KiCad experience because i just have zero. I'm assuming that all those header pins and the different sized resistors are wrong too.

I'm not too sure why the arduino is actually shown on the board with seperate serial header either. You only need 2 rows of female headers for your arduino to soxket in to.

The arduino footprint in from github. So I would assume that is correct!

I found the issue with resistor footprint. I had chosen 20mm for 3 and 10mm for the remaining ones. I think I want 10mm for all of them. Though R1,R2 & R4 need to higher wattage but I will deal with that detail after I have sorted out the size issue.

I also realized that I need to add connectors for 12V input power and 4 LED output signals!

Duh!

-AM

Here is what it currently looks like which I am sure is wrong!!

Suggestions?

-AM

@Samuel235 said:

I work on a 0.1mm grid to make the PCB, and sometimes a 0.01mm grid. Whatever you feel comfortable and happy with. There is no standard grid size for the pcb itself, unlike the schematic of 0.1". Track sizes and vias are normally 8-10mil trace and 0.3-0.6mm drill via diameter for dc <5v. I would make an outline dimension of 50mm x 50mm and make it smaller if you can once you have placed all components on there. Please be aware that each board house has different requirements for drill holes and minimum spacing/trace widths.

This is the guidelines for ITEAD - http://support.iteadstudio.com/support/solutions/articles/1000156313-normal-condition-of-pcb-capabilities

Thanks again @Samuel235 .

I made an attempt at untangling the rats nest and it kinda looks okay but..I think I have incorrect footprints for resistors and caps. They seem too big compared to arduino pro mini & NRF.

These are decoupling caps, so all other boards should have them. I need to look around at other board files to see if I can find the correct footprints because my gut feel is what I have is wrong!

-AM
PS: trying to figure out how I can post what I currently have besides taking a screenshot!

OK, done with the footprint for all the components. A big thanks to all the people who uploaded footprints to github. I was able to use a couple of them.

Now, onto PCB layout!

Whats the grid size I should select? Also track size and via sizes too? I have no idea what they need to be or whats a good safe number.

How do I define what my board size will be so that I can start arranging componets because after pulling in the netlist they are all on top of each other

My target PCB manufacturer is Itead or dirtyPCB with 5x5 sizing.

-AM

@Samuel235 - I just want to say thanks for taking the time to walkthrough a noob with his first PCB. Appreciate it!

For the resistor, just keeping them horizontal for now.

For the caps, I see Tanta1C_Size type and Discret type in my KiCad apart from SMD types.. Not sure what they mean

Let me google around to see what footprint people choose in KiCad.

-AM

@Samuel235 said:

@activemind, a normal through hole resistor is measuring around 10mm for me here. It may depend on the resistors you can get your hands on though, but i would say 10mm is what you're after. You could play it super safe and go 15 or 20 but it will take up much more room on your board. I would say the same for caps too. However, i don't use through-hole caps unless breadboarding.

If this is your first board then through hole is the best thing for you

Done! I will go with 10mm through hole resistors. Do I want to vertical mount them to save some space though I am targetting 5x5cm PCB so I dont know if I will be in a space crunch!

I can handle/solder surface mount but as you said, this is my first PCB and I want to play it safe and go with through hole components.

Onto caps now...I am not sure I even know what all these types mean, will have to google them

All I am looking for is normal through hole electrolytic caps like the one I see on Easy PCB

-AM

@Samuel235 said:

@activemind, it could well be what you want. However because i don't know KiCad, i dont know how to edit the package footprint. It may be worth getting another off of the net (if you can, eagle its called a library and you can make your own) or to make your own. I always make my own so i'm sure i know my part will fit that footprint and 9/10 times the datasheet for the part gives a recommended footprint spec too.

Datasheet, right, but for headers and caps and resistors? I see the same thing for through hole resistors too 20mm, 15mm & 10mm...which one to pick?

I pulled in a couple of footprints from github mysensors project but havent verified them. Wanted to tackle the easier (?) components first like resistors, caps and headers.

As a side node, all my components are through hole and easy to solder. No SMD here

-AM

@Samuel235 said:

The board will be powered by external 12V supply, which would be driving both the LEDs and MySensors circuitry. I envison it being a 2.1 mm DC barrel connector. How do I show that ?

I'm not sure how you would do it in your software, however i do know that within CADSOFT EAGLE it makes the board and the schematic in the same software and what you do to one it does to the other, so you must have everything on the schematic that you wish to have on the board.

I am using KiCad as that was the true free software for a beginner. I will google around to see how I can show power input points or maybe look at some other MySensors PCB done in KiCad.

Question: Trying to select component footprints. The header pitch AFAIK needs to be 2.54mm but for some reason I see 2mm in KiCad. Just checking to make sure thats NOT what I want?

-AM

Thanks for taking the time to review my first schematic ever

@Samuel235 said:

May i ask the reason for not connecting all of the pins on the MySX connector to the pro mini, even though you do not plan on using that pin, i would have it connected IMO. Saves you regretting it later on down the line. Just because it is on the header doesn't mean you have to have something connected to it. If it isn't activated in software then it will have no effect. IIRC.

I can go ahead and connect the remaining pins on MySX connector but I wasnt sure about pins which would always be connected to the 3 FETs (3,5 &6) Do I connect them too? Do I need pullup/pulldown?

Also, where is the 12V coming from? Batteries or power plug/jack?

The board will be powered by external 12V supply, which would be driving both the LEDs and MySensors circuitry. I envison it being a 2.1 mm DC barrel connector. How do I show that ?

The adjustable voltage regulator, i see that if your jumper is open then you have 5v and because i don't know the configuration relation to the voltage i don't know what it would be with the jumper connection closed, i'm guessing something like 7-12 or even straight to 3.3v? Not sure without referring to the datasheet for longer than 2 minutes.

Yes, thats the intent. To be able to supply either 5v or 3.3v. The main reason for doing this was to be a able to use sensors which need 5V. The freebie that comes along is that you can use either pro mini 5v or 3.3v version.

-AM

Please take a moment lo look at this schematic:0_1465688922886_RGB.pdf

I am guessing that the next step is selecting the footprints of the components?

-AM

I had been following @LastSamurai RGBW development as that satisfied my needs but then he changed directions to making it smaller with lesser rating components!

Having never done a PCB, I decided to try doing one. I expect these nodes to be hardwired so power consumption is not as big a deal.

The goal will be VERY simple:

1. 3 channel driver with ~5A rating on each channel.
2. Selectable 5/3.3V arduino pro mini.
3. Cheap and easily sourced components.
4. MySX header to allow various sensor daughter boards.

I have done a schematic which I am putting up for review. Please take it easy on criticism as this is the first time I am doing a PCB.

I might be asking a lot of noob question so please bear with me.
Details to follow.

Thanks
-AM

@LastSamurai Thanks for the offer. I might take you up on it though

I think I am going to start another thread once I have something meaningful to update.

-AM

@LastSamurai Thats a bummer that there are no current limiting ressistor. They are a must with any kind of RGB flood. Hmmm!

I understand why you did not need them because you are primarily driving strips and not RGB floods!

Maybe you can add them to your TODO list for the next rev as optional components.

Yeah, I installed KiCad and now need to load your files to see if I can stumble my way around

-AM

Thanks @LastSamurai . I went ahead and ordered v1.3 of the board just to try them out. If I can solder heftier FETs then your board is EXACTLY what I am looking for. I dont care much about 4th channel since all of my applications will be high power RGB floods.

I didnt look too closely but is there provision for current limiting ressistors in each of the channels.

I will go ahead and load your files in KiCad and see if I can find my way around. Never done any PCB dev but want to give it a try

-AM

@LastSamurai This is a very nice and useful board you have here. But I was more interested in the first PCB you made with heftier FETs. Would it be okay if I took that first rev as a base and modified it for my needs. I need a VERY simple 3 channel (RGB) controller with hefty (> 5A) FETs.

How do I access the board files of that first rev to use them as base?

-AM

I need some help in finding a case for this setup. Here is a list of stuff that goes in it:

1. VA display shown above on the top or side.
2. around 6 DC 2.1mm connectors.
3. All the mysensors circuitry. I will probably be using the myS or slimnode pcb.
4. hall effect sensor module as linked in post above.

Still waiting on some of the parts to trickle in so that I can get a better idea of the space I need but I am open to suggestions.

-AM

I think this should work better:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/30A-Hall-Current-Sensor-Module-ACS712-model-30A/32261284249.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.37.13cHad&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_3_10037_10017_507_10033_10032_401,searchweb201603_2&btsid=31546f77-1aa4-429f-abb3-cede43201686

-AM

Looking at the specs, I see another issue.

Voltage should be fine but this module can go only till 3A current.

I would need higher rating because I expect the current to be ~5A in my applications.

-AM

Thanks @hek . Thats exactly what I was looking for.

Since I am planning more than one channels(outputs) in this distribution box, is there a similar version with multiple channels or I just have to put more of these?

-AM

Moving this project along, whats the most cost effective way to measure the current and power for this circuit? What chip can I use? I see some from TI but wanted input from other more experienced members.

-AM

So I deployed 5 more of these yesterday, so I have a total of 6 on the chain now.

The total current draw is ~5A at 12V...not bad!

Though I have an issue where the lights will go off for a little bit and then come back on.

Almost all of them are doing this and it doesnt happen at the same time so its not that the power is interrupted.

Makes me think as if the LED is heating up and shutting down and then when it cools down after a bit, it comes back on.

I tested them prior to deployment to make sure that they worked but didnt run them long enough that they would heat up. Plan on putting up one on the bench and leave it on longer to see if it does that.

But overall, not bad landscape light for 10 bucks!

-AM

Cobbeled together the display connections this morning

Just some simple connections on perfboard with dc connectors

Testing it on my desk

Connected to my landscape lighting 12V supply.

Now I need to think about adding mysensors circuitry to this.

-AM

Here are some pics of the "final" product:

Thanks to everyone for their input.

-AM

I have installed a bunch of 12V landscape lighting powered through a server grade 12V power supply. I needed more outputs and so started looking at products like this:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17138__Hobbyking_PowerStrip_Fuse_Protected_Power_Distribution_Board.html

But then I thought that there was no way to monitor these from Vera. So I thought I could build one of these with MySensors monitoring on every port.

The requirements I have so far are:

1. 1 input 6-8 outputs
2. Fuse and switch on each one.
3. Thinking about putting one of these meters on the box itself.
   http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-100V-10A-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Blue-Red-LED-Amp-Dual-Digital-Volt-Meter-Gauge-K2-/271866500226?hash=item3f4c819482
4. Current monioring on each port . Shutoff too??
5. 2.1mm center DC connector.
6. What box to use for this?

Comments?

-AM

I changed the banana plugs to regular DC 2.1mm plugs and it looks less cluttered now.

Deployed it yesterday. Looks good.

Will upload pics if someone is interested.

-AM

@mfalkvidd Those connectors look intersting, let me look at them in more detail.

First one deployed today. Scheduled to come on at dusk and turn off at 10PM through Vera.
Will update with a pic in action.

Went ahead and ordered 8 more and now need to assemble the "mysensor boxes" for them.

-AM

I am trying to add DHT sensor and I keep getting this message in my Lua log file:

luup_log:81: Arduino: Incoming internal command '2;255;3;0;15;0' discarded for child: 94

What could be the reason?

-AM

Anyway to order these ? DirtyPCB ?

-AM

I think i will go with option#3 for now. These are landscape lights...world won't end if they go off after some time.

Lets see how long it lasts and if its too short then i could look at other options.

Plan to build 9 more of these ( total 10) and run some 14/2 LV this weekend. Will post pics when done.

I tested the light last night at its prospective location and it works like a champ. Nrf range aint that bad for the price

-AM

Thanks for your response. Whats my other options for connectors? I really dont want to hardwire it.

-AM

Ready to rock n roll...

Packaging is done though I dont know how weatherproof this is going to be..

Figured out the flicker issue, it was the power supply. I was using a puny 750mA wall wart which could handle the PWM duty cycle. Once I put my hefty 12V power supply, its behaving fine.

I built a perfboard and the FET and was able to fit everything in a plastic DIY box from ebay.

How do I weatherize this because this will be outside exposed to elements? Also thinking of making some holes in the box to vent out some heat.

Whats the best way to do this?

-AM

Connected the whole thing up....working nicely.

Though I do see a flicker when I try to dim it...

Powering a motion sensor sketch using the buck converter above. I wish I had my 12V relays in...

Here is a pic:

replaced the 662K part and now it seems to be working fine. I dug up my stash and found one step down converter like above. Let me power the node using it and see how it goes.

-AM

assembled another pro mini board and powered it using 5V wall wart this time, no 3v3 on the board. I think I blew 662K part too.

Let me try replacing it.

-AM

Yeah, those would work good and I can feed 5V rather than 12V ar RAW pin.

How are these adjusted to output 5V?

edit: nevermind, I see the pot screw to adjust the output voltage.

-AM

Ended up blowing the regulator on a 5V pro mini when powered at 12V. Maybe its the "clone" part from china that is causing this but it gave out smoke and finally died when powered at 9V.

Going to assemble another 5V pro mini and power at 5V to test the board and circuit.

Thinking about putting a hefty 150R 1W ressistor before feeding 12V to RAW in final circuit.

Thoughts?

-AM

Or this one looks interesting too...good reviews on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Supply/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1462210519&sr=1-2

Slightly off topic question, but I am looking for a benchtop power supply (yeah! been managing without one for so long) and wanted y'all opinion on this:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DPS-305BM-Digital-Control-30V-5A-DC-Laboratory-Adjustable-power-supply-for-Laptop-Repair/785631910.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.1.zVG69O&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_9,searchweb201602_3_10037_10017_10034_10021_507_10022_10032_10009_10020_10008_10018_10019,searchweb201603_2&btsid=0ad919a2-0637-4aba-9918-1454e14c1f43

Or

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Benchtop-Power-Board-DIY-a-desktop-DC-power-by-an-old-computer-power-supply/32615031628.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.261.IcezQA

Or something else that doesnt cost a fortune.(<$100).

-AM

@mfalkvidd

Phew! I think i should be okay as i dont plan on putting more than 10 on a string.

-AM

@mfalkvidd
But i already have server grade 12v power supplies and i dont want to buy new ones.

Is the LED really going to draw 2.4A? I will hook up one today and measure.

What's the max safe amount of current i can carry on 14/2 LV wire?

If push comes to shove, i might do multiple runs

-AM

I would put my distance around 20m so that should be okay but I DO plan on putting multiple of these on a single run hence larger current!

I really dont want to do multiple runs.

Two options:

1. I need to see how bright the light is with < 12V ?
2. Use some regulator to bump up the voltage at the location. I will be building a seperate box anyways to house the FET and MySensors circuitry, so maybe put a regulator there?

What do you think?

-AM