Posts made by andriej

HomeAssistant - perfect one.

It's been a while of hard work for me with reading about the electrical wires installation etc.

I've landed with a small plan, which I would like to discuss

1. for sure KNX is too expensive for me to consider at this moment, although method I chose will be KNX-proof for future.
2. the only way to meet the requirements of: easy external (not by me) service, work even without computer/domoticz hang etc./future-proof is to run wires from every switch and socket I want to control to central cabinet and switch it from there.
3. run LAN/cat5e cable to each socket for future KNX proof installation or running any arduino there instead of typical wall switch.

So if I enter room and want to switch light, I just press a doorbell-type switch on wall, which will put an impulse to central cabinet (using 230V) and switch there will turn the proper light on. It is both: easy to service for external serviceguy if I would be away and some module is dead and also it will be able to work without ANY automation software/hardware further.

Also, doorbell-type cabinet switches are possible to control externally.
Every doorbell-type switch connected to them will release 'turn on/off' action same as a button pressed on a wall, so I can use one of these:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIN-Rail-Mount-16-SPDT-Power-Relay-Interface-Module-OMRON-10A-Relay-5V-Coil/1986473508.html
to securely control bistable switches I want, with optoisolation using ie. MQTT and HomeAssistant.

The only question left is: how to know what is the status of each light/socket managed by bistable relays?
If I turn on something via homeautomation and turn it off by hand on wall-switch, how to monitor them?

The only way I manage to consider is using stairway-like switch (so managed from both sides of power line) instead of doorbell bistable one. But then switch on wall would be once on, once off in different positions.

Any other thoughts? What do you guys think about the idea described above?

Loxone and KNX/EIB are considered 'expensive' by me.
I'm looking more for a way to use system like this but without complicated expensive installations.

For now on I've found on OpenHardware project for in-wall WiFi ESP relays, with MQTT it could be it. But WiFi can be interrupted so not for security use tho...
I'm looking also for some other ways to control everything without using loxone/knx.

Hi!

I'd be looking for a new home and could have possibility to change some in cabling hopefully.

Currently I'm thinking what to go for in broad field of home automation.
I'd like to choose a way that can act on lights and switches, but also be independent from 'smart' insallation, so when I remove it everything works fine (or if something with domoticz or antyhing else is broken, lights and manual switches would still work).

Also I'd totally love not to use WiFi/other radios in places I can have cables in, so it can't be intercepted and disabled with stronger signal.

Do you have any ideas on what to choose?

@kimot so the only thing that's left is TCP/IP and MQTT...

@TimO this small W5100 module: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/TOP-Mini-W5100-LAN-Ethernet-Shield-Network-Module-board-Best/32457200047.html with step-down dc converter.
Cheaper than the PoE standard version.

@kimot what has to be done to prepare MySensors to use CAN?
I'm thinking about ordering some modules for tests.

@pjr I'm aware of that
Still struggling with decision either to use the CAT5e just as a loooong cable to (doorbell) switch or use it to PoE small nanos all over the place and run i.e. MQTT on each wall-switch separate.
In second option the RS485 protocol would be the best, because of small form factor (smaller than ethernet port inside switch) and possibility to use MySensors too

@LeoDesigner I will put cat5e for 'LAN' purposes to proper socket, but I also want to control my lights not via connecting/disconnecting 230V in-wall, but in central control panel.
I was planning to use doorbell push buttons on walls just to give signal to automation and then MCU will set proper relays/dimmers on/off etc.

That's why I was thinking about putting cat5e also to on-wall switches, then on 1 pair make the +/-12V signal, another pair for data bus etc. And now I'm looking for most efficient way to connect it everything together.
Each room will have temperature sensor for sure (in the switch), some may have dimmers etc. Last idea was to put mini arduinos inside the hole in wall, but I'm afraid of resetting them every once in a while, just because arduino likes to hang itself...

@kimot Thank you for the information - your english is good enough to understand.

I'm just looking for more simple protocol than ethernet to send data from various places - wired.
And it seems that, for longer distance and cat5e cable in-wall, ethernet is the only choice

Ok so if it's line-wire, then maybe I could wire all cat5e's to one patch-panel, terminate them there and from the patchpanel I could daisy-chain them on one magistral connection and also feed the 12/24V on one pair (i.e. orange/white orange) and data (i.e. blue/white blue).

How do you guys think it would work for cables in-home in-wall?
I guess the power feed would work ok (even including the voltage drop) but what about the RS485/CAN length?
I plan to run cat5 to every switch.

Still can't decide if I should connect on-wall switches straight to Arduino (to control relays further) or to use small arduinos inside every wall switch to better control sensors there (temperature on wall) and possibility to program every switch differently. The idea is to get every wire to basement anyway.

@kimot what would be the CAN topology needed?
Does it support star topology? Im looking for a in-home bus over cat5e in walls...

Regards

@Wijbe.Fryslan so I guess you have already installation done?

HI!

I'm trying to plan my home automation setup to be installed in newly built house.
i want to base it on Arduino MEGA (so no PLC, KNX etc.) with support of MySensors also. Controller, so far, will be the Domoticz.

The number of relays needed are still to be planned, but I'd like to plan the main controller first and relays for it.
I'm planning to use:

• Arduino MEGA as controller, with simple digital input-to-output software
• Arduino MEGA screw shield for better connectivity and service ( )
• Omron relays (still can't decide between http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIN-Rail-Mount-16-SPDT-Power-Relay-Interface-Module-OMRON-10A-Relay-12V-Coil/1986494070.html and http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Slim-DIN-Rail-Mount-DC24V-Source-PNP-32-SPST-NO-5A-Power-Relay-Module-PA1a-24V/32387046628.html )

Now I'm also looking for a way to opto-isolate the switches on the wall from controller, so no interruptions/electric risk are straight on the MEGA input pins.
Basically my idea was to duplicate the relays, so:

12/24V ethernet --- [doorbell switch in room] --- closes the circuit on 1st relay board, which (without controller) runs the 2nd relay board and turn on 230V mains light.
After initiation of home I'd switch the MEGA between 1st and 2nd relay board to measure the button press and time of the press (if long -> do some scene). It would also give me an isolation (in form of relay) of the input pin.

If you have better ideas to share how to built everything - don't hesitate to post it here.
Basically, as far as I can get, I want to run everything without any RF except for WiFi for mobile hardware. I want everything to be wired, including door/window sensors etc.

@LeoDesigner but how would I connect all sensors in house and relays too?
SOme resistors needed? Star topology? Few gateways?

Hi!

Glad to see 'wired' version of MySensor protocol coming.
One question - how long wires and how many sensors on one pair/multiple pairs will be supported?

I'm thinking about cabling for new home, which means many meters of cable to every sensor/door/actuator/ligth/meter etc.

In best scenario - one cat5e - one termination (sensor/node/etc.)
Currently I'm looking for a cabled version of protocol to support it and be 101% stable (no hiccups and freezes over the protocol), so I can rely on my home.

MySensors seems to be great to implement, but I'm worried about the signal... I was thinking about letting something around 12-24-30V thru one pair of Cat5 to power all nodes from one power-source (with backup batteries).

Or - are there any better alternatives for RS485, that doesn't need resistors, have no limitations of 32 devices etc?

@Yveaux what controller do you use?
I currently have domoticz and I'm wondering about getting it somehow to system.

Hi!

I'm about to start thinking about building house.
And I would like to prepare myself for it. Basically, the idea is to get as much prepared as it's possible before I decide to lay cables.

The question is: what to go for, to have:

• future proof house, with possibility to change automation technology in 10-20 years
• known and cheap, open standard
• ability to change controllers (like domoticz) to something else

Currently my idea is to lay almost every possible power (AC) cable to one box in garage and there have an switch-relay board controlled by...?
I know the EIB/KNX standard, which costs a lot and is not really easy to maintain by own.

RS485 - sounds good in theory, but have a limit of devices on bus

I also had idea to have relays behind sockets and switches, but then I will hear the clicks every time.
Also, I'd like to use doorbell-like switches, so I can simply press it to turn on one light and hold to turn on/off all lights etc.

Any ideas and knowledge share, guys?

I was about to ask the same question - why there's no possibility of using NodeMCU ESP8266 with MySensors in official way, as it's the simple way to deploy sensor network in home for most users.

I'd like to cover my 2nd location with sensor network, can't decide either to order nodemcu's or go with Arduino.
The worst part for me is that there's no clear instruction how to flash nano's with custom firmware, so they can be updated via OTA.

Learning in Domoticz is for RFXCom transceiver, which is expensive.
Do your own coding with arduino libraries (i.e. new remote switch) and code it with i.e. script.

Hi!

Have you all seen already?
https://developers.google.com/brillo/

it was announced on I/O, around 1h20m
Google I/O 2015 - Keynote – 2:08:27
— Google for Developers

Regards

@cdr You've connected both TX and RX module to Arduino?
The simple chinese ones?

I can see one potential issue - you have to 'disable' the receiver when transmitter is transmitting, as it might cause interference (interrupt calls on Arduino).

@Sparkman Thank you, will find them.
I've also ordered some 20mW modules from China manufacturer with specially-made antenna (spring-one).
I hope I'll get better range with that, especially that they're made for 3.3V and can be powered with max 5V.

@Sparkman it will be hard for me to test now, as I've soldered everything on breadboard.

What other PNP transistor would you fit instead of 2N4403?
I will be buying few of them and can't exactly find the 440x's

The only idea I have is that it stopped working because voltage went 12,4V…
But all components (except TX module?) should accept it.
I've switched from LAN to serial now and back to normal 5V with special antenna.

@Sparkman strange thing happened and suddenly everything stopped working.
After rewiring (still leaving everything the same, just restarting of power supply) it worked for few minutes and stopped.
Currently I've moved from ethernet shield to plain Uno (so only 2 pins are used: GND and D2 - TX Data) and still can't get signal out of the module...
I even rewrote the code leaving everything not needed outside. Now I will be removing the cap between Vcc and GND.
Hope it helps..

@Sparkman thank you very much, it worked absolutely flawless. I can now again control the switches, will test it with different voltages and antennas.

One more thing - I've read some time ago that it might be worth considering a capacitor (polarized one) at least 10uF conected to transmitter's Vcc and GND.
Do you think it could stabilize power and smooth it even more, so the quality of signal and strenght could be even better?

As a antenna currently I use the core from coax tv cable, 174mm long - straight without any shielding.

Regards

@Sparkman time for getting parts as I don't have PNP in house.
Thank you. Tommorow I'll test it out.

Just to be 100% sure - both GND's should be connected together (Uno's and 12V supply?)

@Sparkman Right, now I see.
Will NPN (2N2222 which I have) do the job?

@Sparkman thank you for your reply!
So I'd need two transistors - that's ok... But how (and which one) do I connect to DATA pin (as I assume)?
Or i could bridge P1 and P2 mentioned on schematics above?

This is how I see it - is it proper idea?

I got the PN2222A but I struggle what should be connected to emitter, base and collector. What my thougt was: emitter to Data pin, collector to Vcc of 12v supply and base to arduino data pin, no resistors used.
But should the gnd be both connected? And Vcc of 433 TX is connected to +12v power supply.
It is Uno so I can power it with usb separately.

I've thought and I've once even tried.
I don't know if I wired it properly, but it wasn't much more reliable than it was without transistor.

I can't find schematics including transistor and resistors how to connect it properly and how to prevent arduino resetting while TX module was transmitting (I've encountered this problem).

Hi!

For the remote wall plugs I currently have a 433 Mhz transceiver which sends proper code and turns them on and off.
When I've moved to new location I have problems with signal reaching the outlets as the distance went a little further (but nothing above 'normal flat' values).

In specification of TX 433MHz (basic, cheap China one0 it's stated that it can be powered with voltage 5-12V. Now it's powered from Arduino but I'd like to connect 9V-12V power supply and feed the power staight to module.

Unfortunately specs also say that 'HIGH" voltage value of DATA pin should be at least 1/2 of Vcc, so for 12V it's 6V, which Arduino won't supply. I've tried to connect PN2222A to drive the power exactly to pin, but I couldn't get it to work (it worked for 1 of 5 tries to send code which reached outlet).
Any ideas/schematics how to connect and rive the module to get maximum output power while being properly sent by Arduino?
Unfortunately, itnernet seems to be quiet about the topic and I can see a lot of experienced PCB-designers, so maybe with a little help I can finally make something more reliable...

Regards,
Andrew

@sundberg84 I've seen it should be fixed lately - check domoticz's commits at: http://sourceforge.net/p/domoticz/code/commit_browser

I've bought OrangePi and it works well as RPi alternative.

Yes, please post your sketch and share more info.
Or even more - edit the sketch available at mysensors repository, so 'water pulse sensor' is supported properly by default, for two values.

@kopite have you tried most simple sensors?
It should work. What version of Domoticz do you use? Latest beta?

@rvendrame Nice experience!
Can you share a photo of your module?
With details where you put it and how you've wired it to fit tight spaces... I'm thinking about similiar solution...

Thats unfortunate question, as it all depends on the code you write..

But still, even when you duplicate them - they won't properly work in Domoticz, unfortunately.

Show the code.

you can also see the output on board.
if it stays 5V it's 5V and 3.3V... just guess

@n3ro just change the channel in config file (try to set it in higher values in example) and reprogram all sensors and gateway on your network.

@n3ro It is possible - try changing 'channel' in RF24 Config on every node (by reflashing it).

Make sure that you have 'accept new devices' in Domoticz's settings enabled.

Can you give the name of this unit?
WHere to buy it with what price?

10uA? should be uF and at least 47uF caps (remember about +/-)

You can also get te LNA+PA version with antenna...

I have much better range anyway... maybe your modules are too much from China?

" delay(dht.getMinimumSamplingPeriod());" is the problem - it delays whole sketch every run of loop()

@DanielD just get yourself an raspberry.

Until Domoticz team doesn't fix it, there's no solution.
Even registering second ID for arduino didn't solve problem.

If you run Domoticz on laptop and you want to get 'logs/sensors' without running Domoticz - it won't work.
Only MySensors network will work, but data from it won't be sent anywhere except nodes.

@Joey-Edelstein try posting a code here so we can look better, maybe it's one of libraries?
or interrupt? or something...

Running out of memory - that's the problem for most of programs/nodes.
I have this problem in one too, so I made a code to restart node every x hours.

I'm currently at work, but there's a question: will it run on orangepi? (bananapi-like clone of RPi)
I'll take a look at the code and try to manage... GPIOs are working almost the same (it's compatible).

Maybe if I make a diff-file of things changed, you will be able to merge it and do some 'ifs' so code will be clone-compatible?

Oh well... The library has -bcm in name so I guess it will be rather hard to get it to work...

Anyone?

@sansespere

Does anyone tested/use the sketch from MySensors website?
It sends pulse count and usage calculated... Just the values sometimes seems very strange...

Hi!

Does anyone use 'electric pulse meter' with Domoticz?
Does the value shown as a 'current usage' meets the real usage of power?
And how often should values be sent to Domoticz to get proper real values of usage? I guess 20 seconds is too often - my energy meter is 1000 imp/kWh and when usage from apartment is low (sometimes may be lower than 100W per minute) it don't get any impulse per minute...

Anyway, earlier I was using my own custom built pulse meter which was counting pulses for 1 minute and calculating usage. May it be done with MySensors and Domoticz too?

Here's thread in which I was trying to get info at Domoticz forum:
http://www.domoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6369

Regards

I've one of these connected to MySensors - it's custom written code which I've lost
Anyway, using RX433MHz module it decodes binary sent code and reports as temp/hum sensor.

Look for it, it's widely available for most of common sensors.

@hek how about MEGA as a gateway? It has bigger memory available...

@doblanch have you checked your cabling?

Nano's from China are quite ok, I use few of them.

@kunall thanks for idea, will try
maybe I didn't think of it because pin 13 is used by nRF?

Domoticz has something wrong with water/pulse meters.
It does not send it's VAR (even if it's 0) for a long time.
Try to reset it a lot and assing node ID by yourself.

@kunall unfortunately I don't have any 'actuators' to switch with Domoticz, only sensors which report.

@kunall the best recommendation against openhab for me was ugly interface and problems with running it (java). I was using domoticz since early version with own interface on arduino,now I've switched everything for MySensors.
It still lacks some functions but Inwait for further development as even programmers of domoticz start to use MyS hardware

Yes, basically you need to google a little about 'how to reset arduino with button' and 'how to simulate push button on raspberry'
In general, RPi has a lot easier use of GPIO's than mine OrangePi.
You need to initiate selected GPIO PIN as "out", set it's value to 0.
Then (if I remember correct, so google to be sure) connect transistor:
colletor - to GND of RPi
base - to RPI GPIO pin with small resistor (I don't use it but just don't want to fry your RPi)
emiter - to reset button of arduino

Now, every time you set GPIO to '1' - it's the same as holding reset button on Arduino.
So, to reset it, you have to set value of GPIO to 1 for 1-2 seconds and 'release' button, by setting 0.

I use domoticz and script which checks 'last seen' values for 3 sensors which report maximum every minute.
If all of these 3 sensors have last seen time higher than 75 seconds I can be sure that gateway is frozen and then - voila - my script set's GPIO to reset gateway and everything is working as usual.

It already reset gateway twice during 2 days of work.
And work flawlessly.

I've now recompiled the gateway, removed the debug definition and digitalio.h
Still, the gateway blinks TX led once in like 10 minutes, no rx, no error. Leds are connected properly, code seems to be ok and of course they are declared.

Still no idea why it's behaving like that.

I've just done resetting via GPIO myself - just can't share the code as I use RPi incompatible clone.
Anyway, its pretty easy. Connect transistor i.e. 2222A to GND of RPi and RST pin and also GND of Arduino.
Each status "1" 'holds' the button and '0' releases.

That got me very good redundancy - I can see hangup and reset after max 60-70 seconds.

Hi!

I've running setup with Arduino Pro Mini 3.3V + ENC ethernet controller.
It works flawlessly since yesterday morning without one exception - the cabling is proper, the LEDs are connected, the scetch is also ok, it's just the LEDs that doesn't blink.

When I restart Arduino, I can see they initialize (so blink alltogether). After setup() they go dark and never blink again.

ANy ideas?

Regards

It is because moisture sensor is analog, while OneWire is digital tech. on chip.

@kunall do you encounter any problems with reading the values thru uart?
do you reset your device using GPIO?

Of course you can.

You will have to declare how many sensor child are there on one arduino and voila.

Now go and learn how to achieve that.

Well, i guess mine's different.
It's RGB and the longest leg have to be connected to gnd. Maybe that's why.

I'm building bigger case, also for the serial gateway.
I've built in RGB LED for MyS led's and after connecting each of colours to 6,5,4 pins - they blink in inverted way (so LED goes dark when it's supposed to blink).

Also - it would be great to configure the 'delay' of the blink. I'm big fan of fast blinking LEDs and MyS does it... like 3x slower than expected.

So maybe it's worth adding LED support for nodes already in library and also allow configuration of blink-time in MyConfig?

Okay, it's worth saying how it's going.

The only problem tjhat I've (somehow) solved was 'disappearing' of the gateway under unknown circumstances.
Solution? Transistor controlled by GPIO of the board (which was powering the arduino pro too).

For full redundancy I'm powering Pro Mini with RAW port with 3.3V, so it's double stabilized.
I've never had problems with nRF chips, but I've also put the 4.7uF between VCC and GND on radio.

So, answering the question - it will work.

Regards

Hi!

Fast question for my current project - are there any arguments against using ProMini 3.3v as a serial/ethernet gateway?
The only difference from 5v is the clock - 8MHz, but I guess it's still powerfull enough to run the job.

I mean - i know it will be working… Just want to know if it will be 100% the same reliable.

Regards

Don't you have a flaw in design - what if module fails?
You won't be able to turn on/off light at all...

Interesting catch!
I'd like to know if these values are reported to domoticz properly - too!

Well, I've cleared EEProm, changed nanos, fixed new IDs much higher than ever manually and eventually after few minutes Domoticz sent readings to node so now it have 2 pulsemeters on 2 node ID's.

I did.
I've even managed to run two instances of MySensors (just gw. and gw2) - I've switched hot/cold to seperate nodes on one Nano, they register in Domoticz but no water meter at all (even cold).

I've tried both codes and I've also wrote mine...
I just basically don't know why gateway (domoticz) sees only ONE water sensor and don't even create/see the second one.

I don't know what could be wrong with the code, as it compiles and is exactly doubled for two of water-types (cold/hot).
I've even added motion sensor for test and it works...

  gw.present(COLD_CHILD_ID, S_WATER); 
  gw.present(WARM_CHILD_ID, S_WATER);

Warm one didn't show up in Domoticz even once...

Hello!

Did anyone try/managed to run two water pulse sensors on one arduino?
There's two interrupts available, but I struggle to change the code to actually measure and report two values from one unit...

@pit007: Why wouldn't you let other people use & contribute together with tool you've made then?

The thing about MySensors is not only the library, but contribution from everyone...

I guess the best way it would be to put up configuration (of blink-time) and initialization in one config file and adding a rx/tx/err in node initialization, just the same as gateway).

@reddy11 could you please help (step-by-step) how to determine which /dev/tty is UART and how to connect Arduino to it? (RX->TX, TX->RX + Vcc + Gnd is everything I need?)

I'd like to write a Wiki about it, but first I have problems with connecting arduino serial output to OrangePi (never used it, to be honest, neither GPIO or UART).

Is the Watt-sensor working ok for every of you?
I've switched my installation to MySensors, but reports of current usage seems strange to me...

I don't see how many watts my house is using that often as it's possible (so every 60 secs you could say how much pulses were counted...).
I can't catch how often the value is refreshed.

Second thing is - is it possible to enter 'current status' of the electrical counter?
I can write down the value and I'd like to see new counts added to already measured value (to see after i.e. a month if the counts are counted same as by meter).

Maybe it can be done by V_VAR? If yes, how to use it/push it to node?

Please share the solution, I'm using OrangePi (quite 'better' clone of BananaPi from China), it's superb fast but would like to have nRF-serial gateway straight from board.

How could you deal with the need of 'restarting' the arduino (USB) after server reboots?
I use Domoticz on OrangePI and when it reboots, the arduino is powered all the time, so it doesn't see serial arduino port after reboot.

HI!

I'm using domoticz with (currently) 4 nodes (temp,hum,pir mostly) and EthernetGateway with Nano connected to a USB powered hub.
After a few days of nice work I've noticed that ping times to that gateway were rising up and yesterday at evening they were about 5000-7000 ms (5-7 sec.) to answer a ping (and not all of them).

It all finished today's morning at 6 am, when EthernetGateway hanged up totally and died . Currently I'm at work and have no option to restart it...

I use the ENC version of Ethernet controller.
Did anyone else notice similiar situation? What could be the possible reason for such activity?

And the final question: may switching to w5100 ethernet controller solve the problem (as there's more control done by chipset, instead of Arduino?)
Regards

Well, it don't want to compile.

$ make
g++ -Wall -fPIC -Ofast -mfpu=vfp -mfloat-abi=hard -mtune=arm1176jzf-s -march=armv6zk -D BCM2835_PERI_BASE=0x -c RF24.cpp
In file included from /usr/include/stdio.h:927:0,
                 from ./RF24_config.h:24,
                 from RF24.cpp:17:
/usr/include/arm-linux-gnueabihf/bits/stdio.h: In function ‘int vprintf(const char*, __gnuc_va_list)’:
/usr/include/arm-linux-gnueabihf/bits/stdio.h:37:58: sorry, unimplemented: Thumb-1 hard-float VFP ABI

I would look for OpenWRT router, which could do the job.
On Aliexpress there's Nexx WT3020 - small, USB powered router with USB port.

It can handle normal WAN connection up to 100mbit and you could plug USB modem which could detect the outage and switch itself.

Will it work with OrangePi also?
It's supposed to have RPi GPIO fully compatible, so it's mostly the software I'm asking about.

Hi!

I can't find anywhere how to declare LEDs (RX/TX/Error) on nodes...
I', LED freak and would like to see the blinks on small 3mm LEDs for 24/7 powered nodes.

I can only see the code to initialize them at gateway, which is not really what I'm looking for.

Regards,
Andriej

I had some similiar issues.

Now I use Ethernet Gateway, changed channel in Config and re-clearead EEPROM on every node...
Problem seem to be missing, but sometimes node's just loose connection (even if it's only one wall away...)

+1 for the RX/TX LED support in code for node!

Has anyone tested the Domoticz's support of MySensors?
Maybe it should be mentioned on the webpage somehow.
It's still one of the most nice-looking systems out there...

In latest release of Domoticz I can see first implementations of MySensors!
Maybe it's worth a shot for someone to register on Domoticz forum and help their team out?

Great idea, especially when someone have an oppoturnity to lay cables in new built house.

I've managed to get it to work.
First issue - since always I've reported temperature and humidity altogether (from DHT sensors).
Currently I can't specify one IDX for two values and I can't see in code where I could put two values to report in Domoticz at once.
They use to be reported in one URL.