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    Posts made by ceech

    • RE: Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      @mfalkvidd First thing one does is to follow instructions exactly and hope things will work out. They don't. You try a different type of connection. Which one? Why one or the other? Which option among the same type? It doesn't work, either. Now, you are thinking, ok this guide is for several controllers, so how do I adapt it for my specific case.
      The point being, you can't adapt the instructions on your own. You have to ask someone who's done it before and knows what commands to use in order to make Gateway connect to the specific controller.
      For example: using
      --my-gateway=ethernet --my-controller-url-address=YOUR-CONTROLLER-ADDRESS
      will never connect your Gateway to Domoticz. How can one know that this is the line to be modified?

      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      @mfalkvidd Of course. Skipping test is a bad idea. It is obvious, though that people who resort to asking questions on the forum have tried the test step several times to try and figure things out for themselves. Maybe if the https://www.mysensors.org/build/raspberry wasn't misleading they would even succeed.

      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      @mfalkvidd Removing --my-controller-ip-address did in fact solve the issue.
      Thank you for your help.
      So, to sum up, these are commands to be used when configuring Gateway for Domoticz ethernet (LAN) connection:

      ./configure --my-transport=nrf24 --my-gateway=ethernet
      
      make
      sudo make install
      
      sudo systemctl enable mysgw.service # << adding to boot
      sudo systemctl start mysgw.service # << starting
      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      @mfalkvidd Right. This is the Domoticz's part of the setting
      0_1505841041884_Untitled.png
      And I configured Gateway like this:
      ./configure --my-transport=nrf24 --my-gateway=ethernet --my-controller-ip-address=192.168.1.120

      make
      sudo make install

      sudo systemctl enable mysgw.service # << adding to boot
      sudo systemctl start mysgw.service # << starting

      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      @NeverDie There are two serial ports available in Domoticz. Right? And you have to specify which one you are using in Gateway configuration. Right?

      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      @mfalkvidd It's a good advice, unfortunately it didn't resolve the problem.

      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      @NeverDie I have no idea.

      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      @mfalkvidd @NeverDie I tried all sorts of combinations. Like for example:
      ./configure --my-transport=nrf24
      ./configure --my-gateway=serial
      ./configure --my-serial-is-pty
      ./configure --my-serial-pty=/dev/ttyMySensorsGateway

      and in Domoticz MySensors Gateway USB with dev/ttyAMA0

      then
      ./configure --my-transport=nrf24
      ./configure --my-gateway=ethernet
      ./configure --my-controller-ip-address=192.168.1.120
      and in Domoticz MySensors Gateway with LAN

      I used other different combinations and this is as close to the connection as I could get
      0_1505839132337_Domoticz.png
      I feel like I'm missing something.

      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      I tried sudo ./bin/mysgw -d and the Gateway seems to be listening

      0_1505829110671_Gateway.png
      What can I do next?

      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • Connecting Gateway to Domoticz

      Decided to switch to Domoticz, ran into problem.
      So, Domoticz
      0_1505828508978_Domoticz.png
      and Gateway
      https://www.mysensors.org/build/raspberry
      got installed.
      How does one make them talk to each other? Any help is appreciated.

      posted in Domoticz
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Super capacitor charger/balancer with system backup

      @Bogus-Exception They are ready:
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/LTC3110-super-capacitor-charger-balancer-with-system-backup-/332255910339?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @alexsh1 Manufacturers are probably not very keen on making them, since the production costs are higher.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: 💬 Super-capacitor-power-supply-for-wireless-sensors-w-charger

      Added. MIC5365/6's package is SC-70-5.

      posted in OpenHardware.io
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @alexsh1 I think they are being discontinued.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      Here is a link to openhardware page.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @alexsh1 Normally I use AVX brand.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @alexsh1 Yes, the boost converter works down to 180mV. In other words, it can almost completely discharge capacitors.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      Noise isn't bad at all. Surprisingly. It is no bigger than the background noise when no input is connected.
      0_1499234299367_20170705_075404.jpg

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      A few boards arrived and a couple are assembled

      0_1499186648537_20170704_182615.jpg

      The board charges four 1.5F 2.7V super capacitors. It also provides a boost circuit with 3.45V output on main and sub outputs. It works down to 180mV and provides 3.5mA for 30 minutes. I'll report on leakage.

      0_1499186704077_20170704_182640.jpg

      There are two outputs main and sub. Main is on all the time and sub is switched with high signal on the mode connector.

      0_1499186732324_schematic_800.png

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: MyS not working on solar sensor board

      I can't say what's wrong. Can you send it back and I'll take a look at it?

      posted in Troubleshooting
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: MyS not working on solar sensor board

      The BMP180 sensor is from the same family. Parts of the code probably works on both.

      posted in Troubleshooting
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: MyS not working on solar sensor board

      Give it a while. It's new. It will calibrate in time. Also you can calibrate it yourself.

      posted in Troubleshooting
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: MyS not working on solar sensor board

      I don't, sorry.

      posted in Troubleshooting
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: MyS not working on solar sensor board

      Initial altitude is calculated based on pressure and needs adjustment.

      posted in Troubleshooting
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: MyS not working on solar sensor board

      It is the new sensor on your board. The BME280.
      Here is the library for it:
      https://github.com/sparkfun/SparkFun_BME280_Arduino_Library
      Use I2C_ReadAllData example. And the sensor's address is 0x76, not 0x77

      posted in Troubleshooting
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: MyS not working on solar sensor board

      Try basic board's functionality first, over Serial monitor for example and work from there.

      posted in Troubleshooting
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      There is a Maxim integrated buck-boost converter, that goes down to 0.7V
      http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/256/MAX1584-MAX1585-43040.pdf
      It's quite complex though

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @alexsh1 I use it. On this board:
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATmega328p-board-w-NRF24l01-socket-LTC4079-battery-charger-in-Arduino-PRO-form-/331800929918?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

      It works.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @NeverDie Solid choice.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      Flat ones are nice. Nice package. High internal resistance, therefore low current. The double cell 15F flat capacitor can only supply 70mA.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      And if it is too tall, still, only two capacitors can be installed in horizontal position, or even just one.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      Those are the boards BTW
      0_1497277561227_bottom.png
      0_1497277572768_top_800.png

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @alexsh1 @NeverDie Yes, they will be soldered in the oven.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @alexsh1 @NeverDie You can substitute the MAX8887 with MIC5365.
      This whole thing got me so intrigued that I'm going to make a board myself. With charger, super capacitors and DC-DC converter. I'll use MIC5365 and for DC-DC conversion TPS610986. It has loads of options. And the whole thing will cost less than 10 bucks. I've made a schematic
      0_1497250962642_schematic_800.png

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Super capacitor charger/balancer with system backup

      @alexsh1 Oh, yes. They are 1.5F, 2.7V each.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Super capacitor charger/balancer with system backup

      @alexsh1 I've tested the board with electronic load. It provided 200mA for one minute at 3.15V.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • Super capacitor charger/balancer with system backup

      The board charges super capacitors and balances them when the system voltage is available. If this power rail fails, super capacitors power bank takes over and sends power back to the power rail - it acts as uninterruptible power supply.
      0_1496900313510_IMG_0015_800.jpg
      Two capacitors are connected in series, pairs in parallel.
      System voltage can be from 3.3V up to 5V. Charging current is 600mA. Backup voltage is 3.15V. The main IC is LTC3110 and it handles all functions of the board.
      0_1496900435207_IMG_0017_800.jpg
      This board is intended to be a test board for super capacitor chargers and can supply backup power for limited amounts of time.
      10 boards will shortly be available for sale and design files will be available at OpenHardware.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: EU flag development board

      @alexsh1 I did and it is working fine at 3.3V- just the power consumption of ATmega2560 is relatively high. I will probably use some other microcontroller. I'm looking towards Arduino Zero.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @NeverDie I like those:
      http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/40/AVX-SCC-1018831.pdf
      Super capacitors will be installed on boards.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @NeverDie 20mV is stat-up voltage.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      This is the capacitors schematic:
      0_1495638354596_supercap.png
      Two caps are in series, pairs in parallel. IC only allows for up to 5.5V. But voltages can be set - charge voltage, backup voltage, trip voltage and charge current can all be set. @NeverDie There is a solder jumper pad on the board for low current efficiency selection. Some other DC-DC converters also have this option.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @NeverDie Not necessarily. Larger super capacitors tend to be more expensive than smaller ones. Anyway, the board on the photo is a proof of concept. I would like to see how balancing and bi-directional charging/discharging work. Besides, I have some super capacitors left from other projects.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @Tmaster They will slowly discharge. And depending on quality discharge times can vary a lot. The ones I'm using have a leaking current of 6uA.
      Of course not always is a super capacitor a suitable replacement for a battery but where batteries are not available, suitable or safe, super capacitors can take their place. They also have some advantages - high cycle life of more than 100.000 cycles comes to mind.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      @alexsh1 Boards will be most likely available by the end of the week.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: How best to find the "best" small solar panel of a particular size?

      Anyone interested in super capacitors.
      I'm working on a backup super capacitor storage board. It connects directly to the power rail and charges and balances super capacitors bank. When and if power fails the board steps in and provides power to the circuit.
      0_1495606993310_IMG_0008_800.jpg
      It is based on LTC3110 super capacitor bi-directional charging IC.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Beehive monitoring using Ceech board

      Great work.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Beehive monitoring using Ceech board

      Charge current is the current that flows into the battery. And the CHRG signal indicates when charging occurs. CHRG is an active low signal. It means that charging works when this signal is 0 or close to zero.
      Here is an explanation on how the trimmer works:
      0_1484683373241_1469951808513-hiijeejj.jpg
      The viper is on the red line. Turn it counterclockwise till it reaches the 5V mark. This is a 5V setting. The other way around is for 18V solar panel setting.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: EU flag development board

      Here it is
      0_1476693512223_IMG_0160_mala.jpg

      There are still some bugs to eliminate

      0_1476693541931_IMG_0171_mala.jpg

      but it works

      0_1476693573971_IMG_0180_mala.jpg

      And I'm quite happy with the result.
      Does anyone have any experience driving ATmega2560 at 3V? I'm considering removing boost converter circuit and power the flag with just a coin cell battery.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: EU flag development board

      @AWI Great. I'll let you know when its ready. You'd like a radio on the board? I'll consider it.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • EU flag development board

      There is a project I've been working on that I would like to share. It is not a sensor board for home automation, it is more like a development board. There are some sensors on it which can be used, though. It has BMP180 temperature sensor, a LSM9DS1 3D accelerometer, gyroscope & magnetometer and real time clock. This is how it looks like:
      0_1476359730235_EU flag_top_mala.png

      0_1476359579827_EU flag_bottom_mala.png

      The idea is to use those sensors and display its values on the front of the board. Time for example. Microcontroller is an ATmega 2560 with mega bootloader and is Arduino compatible. It can be powered with a rechargeable coin battery or via USB. I'm working on a prototype at the moment and it will soon be ready.
      I made it because I would like to show that Europeans are as much proud of their heritage as Americans and lately Britons.
      Is there someone who would like to help write some code for it? And what do you think about it?

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      On the board with the LTC4079 there is a voltage regulator behind the input, so you can use battery connector. On the board with the LTC4067 use the VIN pin on the bottom connector.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      @rollercontainer For some reason current started to drop. Once it reached C/10 (around 10mA), charger stopped charging. This is a programmed function.
      I can see two reasons why the current started to drop. Voltage readings might be off for one. Or the battery doesn't accept charge above 4V. Its internal resistance might risen.

      Late charge start might indicate wrong voltage readings. If we assume that in the morning the voltage is 4.2V, then at 11 o'clock the voltage dropped just enough for the charger to start charging (also a programmed feature).

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      @rollercontainer The potentiometer is adjusting the voltage at which the solar panel is operating at its maximum power. It is so called MPPT. Just set it to the solar panel's nominal voltage.
      When the voltage on the solar panel is reduced (is in shade or we want to extract too much from it), the charger reduces the charging current in order to prevent the solar panel from collapsing entirely.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      The capacity of LiPo batteries start to decline below 0 degrees Celsius. But that is a fact in all kinds of batteries. You are not going to notice much change till below -20 degrees. I found this post which describes it perfectly ( scroll down a little 😞
      https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/84570/

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      Like that one, yes. Or, if you do not mind doing some soldering yourself, you can choose one from this list:
      http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Li-ion+Replacement+Battery+For+Samsung&_sop=15

      I do it like this:
      0_1470041071125_20160801_103631.jpg

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      Proper voltage and current also take effect in charging NiCd batteries.
      And LiFePO4 would also require different charge voltage (3.6V).
      The best option is a single cell LiPo battery with a capacity between 1000mAh and 2500mAh.
      Charge voltage matches (4.2V) and the current as well. Voltage regulator on the board is extremely efficient with just 2uA of consumption and 180mV dropout voltage. At 3V with the battery you still get 2.82V for the microcontroller. That's plenty. And quiescent current is the same in dropout. You'll be well off.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      There are also the appropriate charging voltage and current settings to be made to accommodate for the NiCd batteries. Are you sure you don't want for me to do it for you?

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      The first number from IC is the LTC4079. Board number means that you have one with a voltage regulator. You somehow ended with one. You can send it back and I'll send you replacement if you wish.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      There are two versions of the board. One with a voltage regulator and one with a buck-boost converter. The first one does not step-up the voltage and the other does.
      Here is how the trimmer potentiometer work:
      0_1469951800535_hiijeejj.jpg
      The viper is on the red line. Turn it counterclockwise till it reaches the 5V mark. This is a 5V setting.
      5V solar cell is fine, just remember that the minimum voltage for the charger to operate is 4.75V. You are already on the minimum, so the solar cell needs to be well lit in order for system to operate.
      Vcc is a voltage rail that powers the microcontroller. It measures its own voltage.
      If you already have the solar cell and the battery connected than the USB voltage must not be applied!

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      SMD size of the resistor is 0805.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      The float, or better cut-off voltage for NiCd batteries is between 1.5V and 1.6V per cell.
      Programming resistor of 3k equals to 100mA of charging current and 1180 ohm equals to 250mA, which is a maximum value that the LTC4079 can handle (it gets too hot at this value). I equip the boards with 3k resistors.
      Batteries can be charged with different currents. One option is 0.1C (the C rate is the hour capacity of the battery). That is 10% of battery's nominal value. For 1000mAh battery that would mean 100mA.
      I pulled timer to ground which means that the charger will stop charging at C/10 or 10% of programmed current, or 10mA in case where a 3k resistor is used. This works fine for lithium batteries.
      NiCd or NiMH batteries should be charged with timer limit as you mention. It is not absolutelly necessary in our case. Let me explain. If you charge a NiCd battery with a 0.1C, that means that the battery will be fully charged in approximately 14 hours. So the sunset will be the timer that we need. And even if we charge the battery all the time a C/10 termination will reduce the charging current to a value which is close to a battery's self-discharge rate, thus keeping the battery voltage on safe levels.
      There is also battery voltage monitoring circuit on the board which can be used to report whenever the battery voltage is out of bounds.

      posted in My Project
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Using a 5v slim battery

      I agree with @AWI on the overhead as he calls it. You can use the two items as a power source for sure, they can provide enough power for a sensor node. They can also charge your phone and heat up water for you morning coffee at the same time 🙂
      But the power bank can't be used forever. Batteries have final charge/discharge cycles after which their capacity start to decline. In case of lithium batteries which are used in power banks, that number is around 500.

      posted in Development
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Recommendation for 12V battery power

      The charger can be something like this one:
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596-DC-DC-Step-down-Adjustable-CC-CV-Power-Supply-Module-Converter-LED-driver-/191673918658?hash=item2ca0a7e4c2:g:4H4AAOSwMmBVo4rQ

      It has a buck converter with constant current and constant voltage settings which is what batteries need. It can charge any kind of battery with proper float voltage and current settings. If you would go with 4 lithium cells in series you can use the same module to charge the batteries and use it to drive LEDs. Multiple cell lithium batteries normally also need a balancing circuit. Not absolutely necessary, although recommended.

      Here is a link to a video on driving LEDs with this converter:
      High Power LED Tutorial #1 - How to Drive 1W and 3W LEDs from 12 Volts – 07:56
      — Julian Ilett

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Ceech board upgrade

      New boards are ready and are being tested. Here is one connected to a Bluetooth module charging a battery:

      0_1469517433501_IMG_0051_mala.jpg

      This is the code used in battery voltage and charge current monitoring:

      float readVcc() 
      {
        signed long resultVcc;
        float resultVccFloat;
        // Read 1.1V reference against AVcc
        ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1);
        delay(10);                           // Wait for Vref to settle
        ADCSRA |= _BV(ADSC);                 // Convert
        while (bit_is_set(ADCSRA,ADSC));
        resultVcc = ADCL;
        resultVcc |= ADCH<<8;
        resultVcc = 1126400L / resultVcc;    // Back-calculate AVcc in mV
        resultVccFloat = (float) resultVcc / 1000.0; // Convert to Float
      
        return resultVccFloat;
      }
      
      const int current = A6;
      const int lipo = A7;
      
      
      float vout = 0.0;
      float vin = 0.0;
      int value = 0;
      
      void setup() 
      {
        Serial.begin(9600);
      }
      
      void loop() 
      {
        float napetost = readVcc();
      
        float tok = ((analogRead(current) * napetost / 1024 ) * 1200) / 3; // convert the ADC value of charge current to miliamps
        float baterija = ( analogRead(lipo) * napetost / 1024 ) * 2; // measuring battery voltage
        
        Serial.print("Vcc = ");
        Serial.print(napetost);
        Serial.println("V");
        delay(400);
        Serial.print("Charge current = ");
        Serial.print(tok);
        Serial.println("mA");
        delay(400);
        Serial.print("Battery voltage = ");
        Serial.print(baterija);
        Serial.println("V");
        delay(400);
        Serial.println("----------------------------");
        delay(2000);
      }
      /*
      Improving accuracy:
      To do so, simply measure your Vcc with a voltmeter and with our readVcc() function. Then, replace the constant 1107035L with a new constant:
      scale_constant = internal1.1Ref * 1024 * 1000
      where
      internal1.1Ref = 1,1 * Vcc1 (per voltmeter) / Vcc2 (per readVcc() function)
      Example:
      For instance, I measure 3,43V from my FTDI, the calculated value of Vref is 1,081V.
      So (1,081 x 1000 x 1024) = 1107034,95 or 1107035L rounded up.
      
      Use smoothing example from IDE to smooth the data from ADC.
      */
      

      Charge current is limited to 400mA and can be easily changed to another value by changing just one resistor.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Ceech board upgrade

      @kenci It can be used with Rfm69. And yes, IRQ pin is connected to D2.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • Ceech board upgrade

      The board will receive a new design with TP4056 battery charger.
      0_1468676002946_IoT_Pro_01_V3.png
      Charge current and battery voltage will be reported on ADC6 and ADC7.
      Mosfet will be available for external load regulation. It is connected to D3.
      There are three sockets for:
      bluetooth
      NRF24l01+ and
      I2C modules.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Ceech-Board Buyers

      @doesel33 Sure, whatever you want.

      posted in Hardware
      ceech
      ceech
    • RE: Ceech-Board Buyers

      @doesel33 Your board came back. No one claimed the package at your post office and after two weeks it came back. Take a look, I still have the envelope:
      0_1466447523004_IMG_0016.JPG

      So, what do you want to do with it?
      Maybe there is an error in your PaPay entered address or something similar. Would you check that? I'll be happy to send you a package again.

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      @alexsh1 No problem.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      @alexsh1 No need to worry about minimum voltage destroying the IC. It is just necessary for the battery to receive full charge that the input voltage is within 4.75V and 20V.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      @alexsh1 You are at the minimum then. The trimmer was calculated for 4.75V minimum voltage. You might want to raise it a little to get 5.5V-6V MPPT.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      Sure use your power supply. No problem. If the solar cell is 6V, than leave the trimmer. I think you got it just right.
      And you were getting 30mA INDOORS? That's great. I'm quite pleased with that information.
      This means that this sensor board can also be used as Indoors solar harvester.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      What voltage would you like to adjust?
      The current is a bit low. What is your panel's maximum available current?
      The charger is not operating at its full power. Either you are a bit high with the setting on the trimmer or the panel can't supply enough. Charging current should be around 90mA.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      This is a one turn trimmer. Its minimum value is close to 5V mark on one of the above pictures. And its maximum value is next to 18V mark. Since you've turned it more than once, you have to first determine the current wiper position. If you look closely you can see that the turning top is not quite round. One side is a bit flattened. That is the opposite side of the wiper. Now if you take a look at your picture then I think your wiper position is at around 6 or 7V ( to use the same terminology). I would say 20 more degrees to the left and you'll reach 5V.

      You can also measure the trimmer's resistance. Like so
      0_1464622721379_42262818.jpg
      Find the minimum value between marked points. That is your target resistance value.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      If the trimmer is in the same position as when new, then yes. Turn it anti-clockwise to reach its minimum value. Either that or raise the input voltage to 11V.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      Ah, yes. I think i know what the problem is. The LTC4079 has a built-in MPPT power tracking for solar panels and won't charge if the input voltage is below set point. This helps optimizing power extraction from solar panels. If you are using 5V input, then you should adjust the trimmer pot on the board. Like this
      0_1464367270031_hiijeejj.jpg
      Turn the top round part of the trimmer to the left so that the wiper reaches 5V mark like on the above picture. In other words reduce trimmer resistance to minimum. The other way around is for 18V solar panels.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      ~CHRG is at ADC A7. It pulls low when the battery is getting charged. It's not always zero, sometimes is stuck around 10 or below. It works in conjunction with ADC A6, which is a battery current pin. Do you get any reports here?

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Solar Pannel and LiOn or Lipo

      Of course you can. Use voltage dividers to scale down voltages that you would like to measure if they are above your VCC. And you can also read the current from TP4056 charger board. Tap to Prog pin (pin 2) and measure its voltage. Here is the correlation between voltage and current:
      Ibat = (Vprog /Rprog) x 1200
      Adapt the above code with your hardware values, current formula and measure away.

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Solar Pannel and LiOn or Lipo

      The code above is for dedicated boards with on-board charger IC. Like the one from the following page:
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/331838940273?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649

      This board uses LTC4079 and has voltage dividers on battery and solar cell connectors. They allow for voltage readings. Current is measured on one of the LTC4079 pins.

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Universal wireless sensor board w/NRF24l01+ and ESP8266 socket - ceech board

      @epierre I normally use a reflow oven and in your case I had to use a heat gun.

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Universal wireless sensor board w/NRF24l01+ and ESP8266 socket - ceech board

      @nunver The best solar panel is the one with voltages between 5 and 12 volts. And the board is set for a standard 3.7V Li-ion single cell battery. I've just updated the board with a DC-DC buck-boost converter which works below and above battery voltage. There is also plenty of other information on the following page:

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/331800929918?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Universal wireless sensor board w/NRF24l01+ and ESP8266 socket - ceech board

      There are current limiters on input and output side. So short circuit is out of the question. Maybe overvoltage on the input side.
      Yes, that's HC-05. Just use it as a serial monitor. It's the same.

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Universal wireless sensor board w/NRF24l01+ and ESP8266 socket - ceech board

      @epierre I've received the board and repaired it. I had to replace the battery management IC. The LTC4067. The output was fried. I also replaced the voltage regulator while I was at it.

      0_1456327899884_20160224_152838.jpg

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Solar Pannel and LiOn or Lipo

      @epierre Yes, Vin is the right choice. Nice graphs 🙂

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Universal wireless sensor board w/NRF24l01+ and ESP8266 socket - ceech board

      @epierre It's either the LTC4067, or the voltage regulator. Can you send me the board back?
      I'll repair it and send you back.

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Universal wireless sensor board w/NRF24l01+ and ESP8266 socket - ceech board

      @epierre The one with LTC4067 or the one with LTC4079? It's probably the one with LTC4067.
      Here, this is the battery path to the charger:
      0_1455474348741_board_03.png

      and then to the voltage regulator:

      0_1455474386188_board_04.png

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Universal wireless sensor board w/NRF24l01+ and ESP8266 socket - ceech board

      @epierre The battery is connected with the marked trace:
      0_1455472919086_board_01.png

      It goes to the switch an over to the voltage regulator:

      0_1455473099917_board_02.png

      You should measure battery voltage along those lines with respect to the GND. On the other side of the voltage regulator there should be 3V3.

      On the side note -- you can use those boards that you've mentioned on the other thread to charge the battery. No problem.

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Universal wireless sensor board w/NRF24l01+ and ESP8266 socket - ceech board

      @epierre Which board are you using?

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Universal wireless sensor board w/NRF24l01+ and ESP8266 socket - ceech board

      @epierre It is probably a loose contact on the battery connector. Try using a multimeter and check the important connections.

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Energy harvester

      @epierre You can use a Peltier element to power this board. Like this one:

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEC1-12706-12V-60W-Heatsink-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Cooling-Peltier-Plate-Module-/121349774916?hash=item1c41029e44:g:mukAAOSwDNdVrg-U

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Energy harvester

      @Dany Yes, it can. While those boards are mostly used for short energy bursts, I made some continuous current draw measurements. I've attached an LED with current draw of 3.5mA. The board provided 20 minutes of power while dropping the voltage from 2.3V to 1.86V.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      @joaoabs Try lowering input voltage. The IC is in overvoltage mode and we don't want to damage it. Next, try with 5V input. See if you get the charge.
      The trimmer potentiometers:
      03_trimmer_pot.png
      The left one is battery charge current limit. Turn it to the left in order to maximize charging current.
      And the right one is input current limit. Keep the input current below solar panel maximum current. Turn it left to increase current limit.

      This is a formula to calculate input current: Ilim = 200V/Rclprog , where Rclprog stands for trimmer resistance.
      And this is how you calculate charging current: Ich = 1000V/Rprog, where Rprog stands for trimmer resistance. It is also limited with input current.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: New Raspberry Pi to NRF24l01+ Shield

      @MikeF Here you go:
      schematic.png
      schematic

      board.png
      and board

      posted in Hardware
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    • RE: Energy harvester

      @Frank-Herrmann Thank you.
      This chip might seem expensive, but it's very good at what it does. It's voltage range is far wider than any other's, for example. And CC-CV algorithm for battery stacks for up to 60V. That's what caught my attention. Also I had experience with LTC4067, which I also like.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Multisensor node using Ceech board

      I just love to see that you find those boards useful.
      Nice work.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Energy harvester

      @Anticimex After looking at the schematic of the board I think its power consumption exceeds the capabilities of a typical harvester power supply and I'm having second thoughts about it. It is probably not appropriate to be used with it. I might just make it for Sensebender Micro.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Energy harvester

      @Anticimex I'm trying to create a harvester board with MYSX_1.0 connector on it. I think I got the position requirements figured out but I'm not sure I understand the connections that are supposed to be present. I got the GND and 3,3V, how about the others? Can you point me in the right direction? Here is what i got so far:
      MYSX_1.0_sch_mala.png

      MYSX_1.0_brd_mala.png

      Thanks.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Energy harvester

      @Anticimex I'm familiar with mysensor boards and the thought had crossed my mind. I'll do it, I just haven't come around to take the time, yet.

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Energy harvester

      @NeverDie One of the problems is the charge/discharge curve:
      ch-disch_labeled.gif
      As you can see the capacitor loses a lot of its charge in the moments right after it starts discharging. It holds the bottom half of the charge better. They are useful for short pulses of energy. But they are not batteries by any means.

      Source: http://www3.ncc.edu/faculty/ens/schoenf/ELT115/UCC.html

      And the other is an improper measurement. The multimeter draws current from capacitor. Anyway here is a graph of self discharge rates by capacitor type:
      Self-discharge-of-various-capacitors.gif

      Source: http://www.robotroom.com/Capacitor-Self-Discharge-1.html

      posted in My Project
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    • RE: Energy harvester

      @fleinze It is a LTC4079

      posted in My Project
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