Topics created by dbemowsk

@OldSurferDude My old 2.0 setup is with nRF24L01 radios. This is a link to the thread on some light switches that I designed and built. https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/7376/us-decora-wall-switch-continued/2 I am aware that you cannot have two MQTT gatways. When I designed my old setup I was not that familiar with MQTT so I never ended up implementing it. On the home assistant server that I have set up though, I have installed the MQTT broker on there so I should be able to comunicate with any MySensors stuff over MQTT in the future devices I make/set up. As I mentioned, I do have a Home Assistant box that I have started about 4 months ago and eventually want to migrate my Vera equipment to the HA box. As for the YAML and Python, I'll muddle my way through. used to program in PHP and have done enough on Arduino that I'm sure it won't hurt my brain too much.

@dbemowsk I'm sorry, I really don't know. I've never tried domoticz, not to mention any of its plugins. I do have Alexa working with my system, but I don't like it, just because of sending recorded voice out of the house all the time. So I plan to replace it once I get time to get Rhasspy going, assuming that I can get it going well enough. Alexa works very well with home assistant. Though we use a service that costs $5/month to be the cloud piece to interact with the Alexa service so that I don't have to get something standalone working here for that. Though I think that service is really only for integrating to home assistant, so it probably wouldn't do you any good. It's saved me a bunch of time, and as I want to use my time to replace the whole thing with Rhasspy, it's been worth it to me. But part of the reason I mention all of that is that with a quick search, it looks like controlicz is a similar service. Although they do say that you need to add the skill to your Alexa account. That would be annoying to me - doesn't that mean you need to say something like "Alexa, ask controlicz to turn on the kitchen light" or whatever?? With Nabu Casa, it also just uses the built-in smart home skill, so you don't have to install anything extra, leaving those extra words out each time. After the 10th time of having to do it I bet I'd really be gritting my teeth!

@nagelc Just ordered one of those buck converters from Digikey. Thanks for the suggestion. That might fix my whole issue.

@kimot The main thing is that I got them flashed. I still have yet to figure out the new firmware and test them, but I am confident I can get them to work. Thanks again.

So for anyone interested, I posted this case design out on thingiverse tonight. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3339158

@korttoma Perfect. This is what I came up with in the end, and I have it triggering every minute. I needed the number rounded to the nearest whole number as the thermostat will not display a decimal value for the outside temp. local CurrentTemp= luup.variable_get("urn:upnp-org:serviceId:TemperatureSensor1","CurrentTemperature", 26) luup.variable_set("urn:upnp-org:serviceId:LcdText1", "LcdText", string.format("%.0f", CurrentTemp), 365) Thanks a million.

FYI, I finished the 433 node I talked about: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/10094/candle-433-hub-a-universal-433mhz-signal-cloner/1

@bjacobse Thanks for the info. I will look into that.

@alowhum Thanks

@sundberg84 not looking to do hi-fi sound, mainly to amplify an alarm or something simple.

@dbemowsk Any progress I want to do this as well?

@dbemowsk I used LP2950-5.0 in one node when feeding from 12v - about 3 months everything works quite stably.

@dbemowsk Yes, it is hard to beat Weller, I agree. Please post your feedback.

First attempt playing with the logo. I did a manual filament change from yellow to blue. Didn't have any black PLA, only ABS, otherwise I would have used black. This is more of a lithophane style which didn't do the best, but is still okay. I want to try to figure this out using paths in inkscape and exporting them to OpenSCAD. Having some trouble with that though. I'll figure it out in time. The picture is next to a soda can so you can get an idea of the size.

I notice that the kit from CNCrouterParts does appear to use the springy couplers: John Park's Workshop: CNC Machine Kit Build @adafruit @johnedgarpark #adafruit – 09:28— Adafruit Industries So, I guess it can't be bad, because they seem to make very nice kits.

@gohan It's not like the drive stayed full for long. I usually ran with between 20GB and 40GB of free space.

@dbemowsk said in Atmega 328p memory: @neverdie Great idea. I would just need another FTDI adapter and set up another MySensors instance on my Vera. If I have to order the nRF52, I can order an extra FTDI at the same time. Then I can take my time porting over things to the new gateway and phase out the old one as time and resources permit. I wouldn't buy the "dev board" you link above in this thread, it's basically a breakout board with a voltage divider, 2 buttons and 2 leds, you'll still need a programmer to use it and it doesn't seem to have any documentation or schematic so you would lose more time figuring out how to connect it than to (for example) solder a 5$ module from aliexpress on one of @NeverDie 's boards.

@nca78 I have 3.3 and 5 volt versions, so I should be good

@barte Perfect, that's what I needed... THANKS

@nca78 I created the revisions, but the status says waiting.

@dbemowsk We figured out the issue. It had to do with an added space in some of the files.

@mfalkvidd Perfect, that's what I needed to know. Thanks.

Other thoughts: you could have a watchdog which activates a backup gateway if the first one becomes unresponsive. It would make for an interesting project. Probably not too difficult either.

@spanners Just tested again after a LUA reload, and all is good.

@dbemowsk The serial API (=communication between controller and GW) doesn't distinguish between different transport technologies used in a specific GW. So it's not important if a GW is using nRF, RS485, RFM69, none or whatever else as a transceiver.

So I started picking at disassembly of the mower project in the first steps of it's restoration. I will work on it slowly over time. So, this is the old deck, minus the front pieces that broke off. It is a sheet of acrylic that I got for free. While disassembling parts from it, I had a number of screw posts from standoffs and some screw posts from some rusty eye bolts that broke off in the plastic. I had originally thought about cleaning it up and getting some acrylic glue to put the pieces back together, but the more I think about it, I will check prices on a sheet of lexan or plexiglass and make a new one. Acrylic is brittle, which is why pieces broke off. Lexan and plexiglass are a little more flexible. And here is a pic of the basic frame with the drive wheels still attached. It is a bit rusty, but with a sand blaster, some primer and a bit of paint, I think it will clean up just fine. I have some more pics from the tear-down on my website if anyone is interested. https://dan.bemowski.info/image-gallery/nggallery/robotics/Mowbot---First-Steps-In-Restoration

@pjr That was one thing that made it hard for me on some nodes when I was using Domoticz. One of the big ones was my sprinkler node. The node passes zone names and run times using the V-VARx if you use the code on the build page. Because of the fact that at the time Domoticz didn't support those, I had to re-write code for the node to hackishly (if that's even a word) make the three values work.

@wallyllama said in A smart home vs an automated home: The trick is to get them to detect you without actively addressing them. If Alexa can detect breathing, or heat or CO2, etc, then it would solve the problem. If you enter a room and do not say anything, then Alexa has no way of identifying WHO you are. Even if the echo could detect breathing, heat, or CO2, you are back to knowing that someone is there, but not who.

@MagnusF Thanks, I hadn't thought of that. Then the value could be calculated to show as a percentage of wetness. Also, the icon that would show on my Vera controller would be a water drop. I am going to try this tonight.

@dbemowsk Printed with Wood PLA.

@dbemowsk More a solution looking for a problem, the 'vision' of tattoos one day being used for health monitoring is beyond daft without implants monitoring specifics... Looks more likely to appeal to fashionistas... Could possibly have application at Comic-Con events, though sustaining battery power for four flashing LEDs would be a major issue.... Bizarre...

It was a bit of work, but I was able to get the 3 original boards posted on the openhardware.io site today. https://www.openhardware.io/view/542/In-wall-scene-controller-multi-switch-board-assembly https://www.openhardware.io/view/541/In-wall-scene-controller-main-board https://www.openhardware.io/view/540/In-wall-scene-controller-PSU

@d00616 Curious when these might be available for purchase. I like this idea.

@Yveaux Works perfect now, thanks. Now I just need to research calling this as a transaction. Just brainstorming a bit, I will most likely have a function written to grab the value from the sensorand begin and end the transaction there, but since I have never worked with transactions, I will need to research how to write the code to do that.

@dbemowsk looks promising. A good (re)start.

@dbemowsk I'm at the wrong side of the Atlantic to check, but I think the entire thin part fits inside the header.

Hello @dbemowsk, found my old mysensors alarm clock I was talking about, so here is a video of the display screens/menus on a 1602 LCD https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xFFBNHUylU PS: you can also enjoy the sound of the glorious karaoke singers downstairs in the street, really high (alcohol) level today

@m26872 - I do this too, hotter the iron is the better for me. Hotter and quicker wins the race.

Hello, For a project wtih a fablab, we have using a Li-Polymer Charge Management Controllers MCP73831 You can have free "sample" for prototype if you ask directly to the factory, perhaps it could be faster.

@BulldogLowell My plan is to mount it on the edge of my garage roof far away from my trees. I have seen designs with spikes for keeping birds off. I think I will work those into the model before printing. My hot bed is 220 x 220mm which is 8.6" square. It should just fit if it is centered correctly.

Thanks, that's what I needed to know.

@mfalkvidd Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

@dbemowsk said in Problems with an SI7021 temp/humidity sensor: @Yveaux So I tried that library and it worked. Thanks for the help. Now I just need to print an enclosure for the thing. Great!

I have also noticed differences in the look and feel for MySensors devices on Vera. Here is the MySensors plugin device along with the Settings page from my VeraPlus and VeraLite: On the left is what it looks like on my VeraPlus and on the right is on my VeraLite test device. Same plugin versions and "same" firmware versions. The only difference is on which firmware version the plugins were installed. Have you @dbemowsk changed Vera firmware in between the creation of these devices that look differently?

If I get any more of these I won't hack them like I did the other ones. I just recently got some Sonoffs that I put the ESPEasy firmware on and am using a modified wifi switch plugin on my VeraPlus that seems to be working good now I did try the ESPEasy firmware on the Eco Plugs, but had some issues with it in the beginning which is why I switched. I still have the ESP8266 controllers that I pulled out of those Eco Plugs, All I have to do to use them on a different relay board is connect 3 wires, Ground, +5 volts and the control signal for the relay, so the boards won't go to waste. I am just finishing up one of my newly printed 4 button wall switch controllers (https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4317/us-decora-style-wall-switch/34), and I will be doing a 2 button controller immediately after that one. Both of these will be used like scene controllers for my Vera Plus and I will use them to control the Sonoffs connected to my ceiling fans and lights. I may get a couple more of the Eco Plugs to use with the 4 button switch controller.

China quality strikes again

@camadort Thanks, I didn't know that. I'll give it a try.

@The-Profit I am sure that the arduino library and the MySensors library are different in how they talk to devices. The MySensors gateway is not only supported as a serial gateway, though I think that is the most common way that people connect. MySensors also supports an RS485 wired gateway, MQTT gateway, and a few others. Check out the "Selecting a gateway" page for more on the gateways. If you have MQTT already set up for HomeSeer, you may not need any gateay at all (could be wrong on that though), not exactly sure as I have never used MQTT. As @Tmaster mentions, you could build a dimmer sensor, but if you are going to do that, you will want to make sure you make one that is safe for inductive loads. If you don't have one for inductive loads, you could easily burn out the circuit. I have not had the time to dig into this one again, though I hope to soon. I have my hands full at the moment with my weather station node that I have been building. Once I get more done on this, I will post to this topic again.

@camadort Let me know if you have trouble. Someone else was emailing me about this issue and they mentioned this thread. I thought it was you, but it wasn't. I don't know if he got his going or not. Anyways, his email to me prompted me to do a blog post on my website about this topic. http://dan.bemowski.info/2017/07/04/using-a-sonoff-with-espeasy-and-a-vera-home-controller/ I have a link to the zip file with the three HttpSwitch files. These files have exactly what I posted above, but they are the actual files pulled from my vera in the event that you have trouble creating your own with the above code. It also has instructions on configuring both the device and the Vera side of things.

Here's the pull request, up for review: https://github.com/mysensors/Vera/pull/59

I figured out that deleting all parts of the device, clearing the eeprom and running inclusion again worked.

I had some trouble trying to add my new temp sensors using UI7 on my Vera Plus. I tracked the problem down to the J_OWServer.js file. The original was trying to use a Hash object which gave me errors in my Firefox browser. I made changes to use a plain javascript Object, and I can now add the sensors. I have made changes to that file and have a copy of it in my github repo.

@korttoma Thanks. I completely understand the need for family.I should have thought to link the two topics myself. So far, since changing the FTDI adapter things have been for the most part smooth. The only thing I am having an issue with is my thermostat bridge node. Details are in this thread if you have any suggestions.

@Nca78 This would be nice as a complete battery operated MySensors node all in one board. I would be interested if you get this working.

Looking at the costco price for D-cell batteries (http://www.costco.com/Duracell-D-Alkaline-Batteries-14-Unit%2C-2%2B-Pack-Pricing.product.100322549.html), two D-cells would cost just over $1 plus tax. So, rough BOM: $1 for batteries $1 for PIR $1(?) for battery holder $4 for atmega328p+RFM69HW mote (maybe $2 for an nrf24L01 mote) Total: around $6 to $8 At that price you could afford lots of them, which would also offer a way to correct for possible false positives.

@Sparkman said: I think they likely accomplish by mixing 3 colors That is how most if not all RGB LEDs work. Using PWM on the red, green and blue LEDs is how you achieve the different colors. I could probably have more than just the 2 colors if I can find a way to mix the 2 colors using PWM, but that might be a bit much for a nano to handle with all of the display multiplexing going on.

I purchased an Edge. Now that it's been a few months I would rather have purchased the Plus. I'm still happy to own an Edge.

@dbemowsk Welcome to the wonderful land of kicad As already mentioned, we have a kicad parts library on git hub, which we use for the mysensors components. There are setup instructions as well, so you can get started. I think we already have a nano in our repository (I'm not near my computer at the moment so can't check).

Finally! Thanks @Boots33 ! I think mysensors is a great platform but simple tutorials are needed.

Try to angle the antenna in different directions try with another nRF try to have the nRF outside the box when you close it

Really nice icons thanks for sharing

When you are planning to buy an oscilloscope the most important thing you should consider is the output signals it produces. I remember when I was in college it was the only equipment which was antiquated and outdated. Tektronix MSO2024B is a nice option I guess. Also, Tektronix MDO4000 is the best general purpose scope that is available today. Mixed signal oscilloscopes are also used these days.

@BeniK Always glad to help

Thanks @korttoma , that's what I was hoping to hear.

@Dave-Dan from what I read, you must first update the GW and then nodes. In my case, after changing the GW, I couldn't properly control my nodes with domoticz. Then i upgraded my sensorsand everything went good and smooth

@alex_the_techy I have had an A8 for just over 2 1/2 years now and it has been a relatively good entry level printer. Most of these entry level printers have some quirks about them, but they give you a good start into 3D printing. It does have an acrylic frame which is not quite as sturdy or durable as the aluminum extrusion frame that something like the Ender 3's or the Creality printers have. You can pick up an Ender 3 now for less than $200 US at aliexpress which is right around the same price as an A8. I would go with that over an A8 if I were to buy one these days. Many people that buy the A8 printers end up doing an AM8 frame conversion on them which basically gives you a frame similar to the Ender 3. I am not sure what the cost of the AM8 extrusion parts cost, but whatever the price is, it's too much when you can start out with the Ender 3 for around the same price as buying an A8 and you don't have to go through the hassle of the conversion, which by the way requires some 3D printed parts.

No, I have a gas-heater that has a powerplug to turn it on and off. As binary as it gets. What I was looking for MySensors code for a node that is a stand-alone thermostat, but that can also be given an override setpoint through Domoticz. I am looking for tips/code that will let Domoticz send a keep-alive signal to the node. Basically I'm looking for ways to do this robustly and securely. There are so many configurations possible.

So I found that GPIO pins 6, 8 and 10 were /dev/ttyS3. I used the link from @mfalkvidd and did the symbolic link and changed the /etc/rc.local file and I now have everything working in Domoticz on /dev/ttyUSB30. I cannot seem to see the device in CuteCom, but if I need to debug in there I can do it on /dev/ttyS3. Thanks for the help guys. you are great.

This is how I solved it with identification(DeviceAddress) https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4143/about-ds18b20-onewire

@RoushRS3 said: it needs tot turn on and then immediately turn off, and it does not do that. If you look at the code for my garage door node, mine does that. Everything for that is handled by the node This is the code in the main loop that does that: //If the relay is on, shut it off if ( digitalRead( DOOR_ACTUATOR_RELAY ) == 1) { relayOff(); } In the relayOff method the relay is shut off and then informs the controller that it has been shut off: /** * relayOff - Used to turn off the door opener relay after the TOGGLE_INTERVAL */ void relayOff() { digitalWrite( DOOR_ACTUATOR_RELAY, RELAY_OFF ); //Added this to tell the controller that we shut off the relay send( msgOpener.set(0) ); } //End relayOff So on the controller, you should see the switch turn on, and then immediately shut off.

@dbemowsk In 6 days, at the Swedish MySensors meetup

@Dringie As @AWI pointed out, the V_TEXT variable and S_INFO sensor type have not been implemented until version 2.0. He mentions that you can add them by putting these lines in your sketch: // new V_TEXT variable type (development 20150905) const int V_TEXT = 47 ; // new S_INFO sensor type (development 20150905) const int S_INFO = 36 ; I did that and it worked like a charm. I now havemy "Garage door position object that shows me the current state of the door as one of {Open, Closed, Opening, Closing, Obstruction}. As for posting the code, I will do that in another thread. I have a thread started under the Hardware section of the forum called "Automate garage door". Here is the link. https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4059/automated-garage-door I will be posting the new code later tonight. I just want to tidy it up a bit before posting.

@awi I am part way through your article on strings describing the stack and the heap. GREAT article. I have not finished it yet, but what I have read so far is excellent info.

So with a little playing with the continuity tester I found a loose connection. I am not sure yet why I cannot do the upload with the UNO, but I got it to go with the serial adapter.

The controller can use the debug serial output from the gateway of type internal message subtype 9, I_LOG_MESSAGE, and report it in a log.

@dbemowsk Also works great in wine.

btw, some of the RFID keypads that @hek mentioned supports the wiegand protocol and there is a arduino library available for that. https://github.com/monkeyboard/Wiegand-Protocol-Library-for-Arduino

@skywatch

Here is a package you can start without installing anything

@awi I have one of the X10 switches that I dismantled the other day and the issue with trying to use that is that there is so much circuitry for the X10 portion of the thing that without having a schematic, I wouldn't know exactly what to disconnect to only leave the triac motor control circuit. Also where and how to connect in my galvanic isolation circuit.

The comments on Youtube link to https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/153/irrigation-controller-up-to-16-valves-with-shift-registers where you'll find a lot of discussion. Happy reading