Posts made by monte

@kiesel I would look into ZigBee and/or matter. It's an industry standard, so won't be abandoned any time soon. Or you can try ESPHome if you don't mind using WiFi as a carrier.

@NeverDie you can try this https://github.com/cryinkfly/Autodesk-Fusion-360-for-Linux. I've set up bottle container for fusion and it works quite nice.

@moses https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/blob/b9d9cc339659f724aa94d4108fc5289a720d1bcd/configure#L266
This is where you edit it. Just delete -mfpu=neon-fp-armv8 -mfloat-abi=hard and do

make clean
./configure

I'm not sure this will work, but I did compile mysensors for aarch64, just for another board and SoC.

@moses said in Compile on arm64 Raspi 3:

unrecognized command-line option ‘-mfpu=neon-fp-armv8’
unrecognized command-line option ‘-mfloat-abi=hard’

Try removing those flags from make file, apparently they are not needed for arm64.

@Multimax do you send initial states for all children for this multi relay node? HA won't show anything that hasn't sent initial data to show.
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/mysensors/#presentation

@electrik I am using MQTT explorer, but I don't see where is an option to see if message that was sent is retained. There is only box "retain" for a message to be sent from the program.

I wonder if anyone else have encountered this problem, and can explain why is it happening.
I was trying to increase frequency of PWM, so the first thing I tried, was lowering the prescaler for Timer2. By default it is set to 1/64 of F_CPU. I am running this particular node at 8MHz.

TCCR2B = _BV(CS21);

Setting prescaler to 0 or 8 leads to it being unable to receive any NRF24 messages, though it sends okay.

TCCR2B = _BV(CS21) | _BV(CS20);

Setting prescaler to 32 works normal, as does setting PWM mode to Fast PWM.
I've searched the Mysensors code and haven't found any mentions of use of Timer2 or interrupts connected to it.

I figured this out. After discovery, gateway sends states found in HA (or MQTT I'm not sure). It sends first - state, second - level. My code was turning light state on on every level change greater than 0, so because the state is sent first and the level second, my nodes got confused and turned lights on.
The question is why this behavior is different from TCP gateway I used before.
It was pretty dumb problem, but at least there is now this thread for someone who might have same problem in the future

Switching the gateway to 2.3.2 haven't change anything, as expected.

I have made myself a new standalone mqtt gateway (before I was only using RPi gateways). Now I see strange behavior with 2 of 3 light nodes I have.
After gateway boots, it sends discovery requests:

1296965 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=255,c=3,t=20,pt=0,l=0,sg=0:
1296973 TSF:MSG:BC
1297567 TSF:MSG:SEND,3-3-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=21,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:0
1299177 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=43,c=3,t=4,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:1
1299183 TSF:MSG:BC
1299316 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=63,c=3,t=4,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:2
1299322 TSF:MSG:BC
1299456 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=16,c=3,t=4,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:3
1299462 TSF:MSG:BC
1299595 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=30,c=3,t=4,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:4
1299601 TSF:MSG:BC
1299736 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=239,c=3,t=4,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:5
1299742 TSF:MSG:BC
1299877 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=192,c=3,t=4,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:6
1299884 TSF:MSG:BC
1300019 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=145,c=3,t=4,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:7
1300025 TSF:MSG:BC
1300301 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=112,c=3,t=4,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:9
1300307 TSF:MSG:BC
1300441 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-255,s=18,c=3,t=4,pt=0,l=2,sg=0:10
1300447 TSF:MSG:BC
1305182 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-3,s=255,c=3,t=6,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:M
1305313 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-3,s=0,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:0
1305319 TSF:MSG:ECHO REQ

After this my nodes for some reason send current states:

1305323 TSF:MSG:SEND,3-3-0-0,s=0,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:0
1305333 TSF:MSG:SEND,3-3-0-0,s=1,c=1,t=3,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:21
1305344 TSF:MSG:SEND,3-3-0-0,s=2,c=1,t=3,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:100
1305401 TSF:MSG:SEND,3-3-0-0,s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:0
1305446 !TSF:MSG:SEND,3-3-0-0,s=2,c=1,t=2,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=NACK:0

And after that they recieve it back from gateway, and act as if it was a command to change their state.

Gateway is 2.4 alpha, all 3 nodes are 2.3.2, and only two of them acts like this. I guess I am missing something, but can't grasp what exactly.

Any ideas?

@TheoL that's not the dimmer's fault a far as I am concerned. It behaves the same way at full brightness. It's just a cheap chinese driver in it.

@TheoL this is a basic triac control scheme, so it is leading edge type dimmer. I have led bulbs, that work with it, but they are clearly marked as dimmable. The downside of these bulbs is that they are very sensible to the slightest voltage fluctuations. I have not the most stable voltage on one of my phases, so it is very visible, unlike with the incandescent bulbs, that are connected to the same power source.

@TheoL there is nothing special in it In fact it's an old design that was waiting for the code to be written for a long time. And there are some issues with it. It seems that external interrupts for zero-crossing make NRF24 ACK fail most of the time. And if I were to make another one of this, I would add some low cost mcu to do the dimming part alone. I have dimmers with EPS8266 that uses Attiny13A for triac control, but I wouldn't try to make it control 4 channels.

Also the time of Atmega328 has passed, I guess. They are marked "Not recommended for new designs" by the manufacturer and I have struggled to fit everything I wanted (UI mostly) in it's memory. I ended up disabling serial output in mysensors and everywhere else, decreasing message buffer size and scraping bytes everywhere else I could to make it work stable without crashing.
I'm not sure if I will continue to make new designs for mysensors, but I think I will use NRF51822, as they are so cheap now at aliexpress, and you can add PA LNA to help with signal strength (theoretically, I haven't tried it). Another way is to use NRF52840 for all new designs, even they are 4-5 times more expensive than 51822 but later you can write a firmware for it to use Zigbee of Thread/Matter and use the same design with new functionality.

From left to right:

• Home Assistant server with built-in NRF24 radio and OLED display based on Orange Pi Zero
• MQTT Mysensors gateway with ESP8285
• 4 channel triac dimmer with oled display and UI for operating in standalone mode.

@GaryStofer well, if this is a timing issue, that's has to be on the Domoticz side. Probably it can't read fast enough?

@GaryStofer well, in that case you have to look at actual integration, and what Domoticz does not like with ack sent from node.

What debug outputs of a GW and a node show, when you send commands from Domoticz?

@GaryStofer said in Error sending switch command, check device/hardware !:

Also noticed that the GW code is not using the IRQ line from the radio, I see the SPI clock running on the GW constantly.

That's rather standard behavior.

@Zwippet the link you provided answers most of your questions:

That's the list of devices supported by rflink firmware. If yours aren't among them, I guess they won't work.

Mysensors work within it's own protocol and doesn't support any 3d party commercial products as per my knowledge.

@GaryStofer said in Error sending switch command, check device/hardware !:

Domoticz

Consider switching to Home Assistant all along. It's easier to get help with the system someone still uses.

@GaryStofer said in Error sending switch command, check device/hardware !:

I see only one command sent and no error messages ever.

Because without ACK setting, Domoticz doesn't await a confirmation from the node, and just assumes that message was delivered. It may well be that node can reliably receive, but not transmit, or rather GW can reliably transmit, but not receive. Try switching radio on GW/placing node closer to GW and see if it makes a difference.

https://github.com/sandeepmistry/arduino-nRF5
Install this and find libraries for whatever sensors you have on that board.

@basaksts said in nRF5 Multi Sensor Board (12-14€):

Also I need an bootloader

No, you really don't. You need ST-Link, or J-Link SWD programmer/debugger. Connect it to SWDIO, SWCLK, 3.3V and GND and program it using Arduino IDE.

Please read carefully documentation for HA. https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/mysensors/

You need to send initial state of your sensors. There is example code for doing it. Basically you check in loop if the node just started and send some values to HA. After that your sensor will appear in HA.

@Doggie said in New user has questions:

If you have a receiver that has some sort of digital output (i.e. an LED) you can connect it directly to raspberry pi's GPIO and read state chnages inside your iobroker https://www.iobroker.net/#en/adapters/adapterref/iobroker.rpi2/README.md (If you decide to go this way, make sure that digital output voltage is in safe range for Raspberry Pi (up to 3.3V) or just use optocoupler to eliminate any potential risks.)

MySensors can't connect to your doorbell directly and can't help you in this scenario, it would only complicate things further.

To connect to your arduino via network, you need to add either Ethernet, or WiFi module (you won't be able to use ssh anyway). Otherwise just use USB cable to connect it to RaspberryPi.

@bach e01-ml01sp4 is just a wireless module produced by EBYTE based on NRF24 plus PA/LNA chip to improve the signal. If you take off the metal lid you will see Nordic's chips there. Operating voltage means power supply, VCC pin. Digital IO of NRF24 is 5V tolerate. But you do you.

@bach said in nano & E01-ML01SP4 gateway:

i can't explain it as i don't fully understand it, i followed this tutorial https://maker.pro/arduino/projects/how-to-use-ams1117

Well, someone have misunderstood something, I guess. Any explanation for a resistor between GND pin and ground is if it is adjustable version of this regulator. And even then it would be used with resistor divider, not just one resistor.

@bach said in nano & E01-ML01SP4 gateway:

and where would you put the 0.1uF ? on the output of ams1117 or in the input of nrf24 ?

Next to the cap you are using for NRF24. All caps work together, but for ensuring the best performance you need to place capacitor as close to actual VCC pin of the chip as possible. In your case it's not possible, because you are using prefabricated module, but you get the idea.

@OldSurferDude said in nano & E01-ML01SP4 gateway:

I believe that what @monte is saying that there will probably be little future support for the nRF24 at MySensors.

No. I am saying that current development of MySensors is basically stalled. And I am not sure if anyone is seriously interested in keeping this project updated.

@OldSurferDude said in nano & E01-ML01SP4 gateway:

@monte is saying to use both capacitors 4.7μF electrolytic and 0.1μF ceramic.

No. The practice of using smaller capacitor in parallel with the bigger one is not limited to only electrolytic ones. Please read this answer: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/298798/capacitor-placement
In this particular case it won't make much difference if any. But it's a good rule to remember if you are planning on making more complex circuits in the future.

I may be wrong about IRQ pin after all. It seems to be used with MY_RX_MESSAGE_BUFFER_FEATURE feature. But I see that some people report problems using it and it only works with AVR.

You don't need resistors to drop voltage on data pins for NRF24, they are 5V tolerant. Also you don't need SO much capacitance 4,7uF is enough for stable work, as per my experience. Better add second cap 0.1uF in parallel to the big ones. Also, why is AMS1117 connected to ground via resistor?
IRQ pin does nothing in current (and probably the last) version of MySensors, so you can skip routing it if it will help you in any way.

@d-smes no, it IS a MySensors issue, that's the point. Another point is that probably nobody will fix it anytime soon.

@mfalkvidd nowadays there are so many cheap and easy solutions for what mysensors does, that I doubt it will gain any interest from non-enthusiasts as it is now. And it also lacks something to attract enthusiasts who can contribute anything back.

@mfalkvidd I guess that's the downside of a decision to make library do everything automagically without need to have any constructors or call update functions in loop, or declare callbacks. For the novice user it's for sure beneficial, but I don't think it's necessary. The are many arduino libraries like web servers and display libraries, that have many users, but don't try to hide everything from them behind scenes, and it makes them easily modifiable for one's own needs and also makes easier support and development.

@se-O-matic said in HassOS + Serial Gateway OR Docker + RPI Ethernet Gateway:

Can I use the UART Port "/dev/ttyAMA0" in HassOS?

Yes.

@se-O-matic said in HassOS + Serial Gateway OR Docker + RPI Ethernet Gateway:

Are there any limitations in Option2, when HA running in Docker?

Not that I can think of. Supervisor might be unhappy about "unsupported" setup, but it will work. They invented very strict guidelines for supervisor setup, apparently to lift any "responsibility" in terms of support for what people may come up with in their setups. But everything usually works anyway.

@NeverDie https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32738503593.html special bits, that has the same diameter of the tail side, and will fit the standard drill. Or you can buy a drill with small jaws, or just another chuck, that will fit your drill.
I am using dremel tool with a drill chuck bought separately https://www.dremel.com/us/en/p/4486-2615004486

@NeverDie I contacted alibaba sellers a few times for quotes, but never got to buy anything:) The process and shipping costs kills any wish to try and buy if anything less then 20-50...

@NeverDie yep, you're lucky:) Mouser says "Expected 09-Dec-22"

@NeverDie sorry, where did you buy them? I don't see them anywhere

@NeverDie are you saying it is only programmable with j-link? Won't stlink/blackmagic work?

@NeverDie have you checked the radio already? How much work is needed to make it work with mysensors?

@Daniel-Brunod said in TEMT6000 Breakout board:
First of all, when trying to figure out something about electronic component, read the datasheet first. https://www.vishay.com/docs/81579/temt6000.pdf says that maximum "Collector emitter voltage" is 6V. So, of course you won't damage the sensor by wiring it like that.
BUT! You're right that it is a voltage divider scheme, so you need a resistor to take a reading.

@badisensors try ethernet gateway instead of serial. You won't need to pass anything to docker and it works just fine.

@NeverDie I think this is what you are looking for:
https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Zigbee/#hardware
https://github.com/esphome/feature-requests/issues/1111
Also look at "Network" category: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/
If you want to make something yourself, you need to make UART to LAN adapter basically. Home Assistant can use network socket as serial address https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/#zigate-or-sonoff-zbbridge-devices. So basically you think in the right direction, just skip MQTT part:)

@NeverDie you can look here for reference https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/

@NeverDie yes, I use this one. But amazon's price is very high, I bought one from aliexpress for 11$. Essentially it's just a USB Zigbee adapter with an external antenna. It identifies as "Texas Instruments CC1352/CC2652".
UPDATE: Wow, it's really became pricier https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003606767695.html

I use Home Assistant that has built-in integration with Zigbee (ZHA). You only need a USB Zigbee dongle, of which there are plenty. https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/

@Bogusz-Jagoda well, if you buy modules for 50c including shipping, you can be sure they are counterfeit. If you buy slightly more expensive Ebyte modules, they always work. You get what you pay for.

Frequency and voltage of an Atmega does not effect radio quality of a NFR24 in any way (if it is stable and well decoupled voltage).

@Ethan-Chua said in Increasing range of 8MHz ATMEGA328P with NRF24L01:

Defined #define MY_RF24_PA_LEVEL RF24_PA_LOW

That's the opposite of what you want to achieve.
It either problem with cheap nrf modules, or your pcb design. By the way you have big problems with the latter:

Your PCB doesn't have separated ground plane, and even that thin piece of ground track that tries to get to the point isn't connected. And what even worse it almost touching 3.3V out pin of BL8530. You need pay more attention to track clearance and consistency. How are you powering this board?

ESP32 with dac.
EDIT: or even without:)

@NeverDie may I ask, why do you need such speeds? How frequent are you going to clone VM's and how many of them are you going to have? Is this a home setup?

@NeverDie said in Best PC platform for running Esxi/Docker at home?:

FreeBSD is a more complete OS, and so I suspect the entire thing is better scrubbed than the way Linux distros are thrown together

Haven't you heard the last controversy about wireguard driver merged into FreeBSD core by Pfsense, which had awful quality and was written by some pretty shady person? And it was only a few day before the new release of FreeBSD, when the author of wireguard wrote a letter about it and stopped the commit from being released with the kernel.
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2021/03/in-kernel-wireguard-is-on-its-way-to-freebsd-and-the-pfsense-router/
Can't find the long story I've read about it, but this article can explain the matter good enough.
I would say that broader adoption and even segmentation in some way, help more to make robust opensource OS.

@TheoL I am just saying from my experience. At one place I use KNX where it was prewired according to a plan, mysensors and ikea in places that where added after the wiring and walls were finished. I have had issues with Ikea bulbs disconnecting and needing repairing with hub, but in the end it is viable solution if you can't change wiring. I also tried Z-wave and it was much more expensive and worse. For zigbee there are opensourse projects that may work better then proprietary hub, but I didn't bother to try them yet.
But anyway, if you want everything to work reliably and be failproof you should plan everything ahead and know what you are doing and how. And I don't think that it's something particularly bad. Someone has to do work to achieve something great. It either you, or someone who you are paying either with money, or other things like your privacy, for example.
And I am not saying, that this will never change, technology is evolving and becoming more robust and sophisticated, I just don't see it changing drastically in nearest future.
Anyway, if you're going to achieve what you are envisioning, I will be happy for those people who will open wonders of home automation for themselves without doing any research.

@TheoL you can buy philips or ikea zigbee bulbs and not change any wiring. That has some limitation and stability problems though, that's why serious automations require proper wiring and project development.

@NeverDie said in Where did everyone go?:

it's strange how home automation can get so complicated when it seems like it should be easy.

I think that's a wrong idea. Automation can not be simple, otherwise it would be made automated from the beginning. The key feature of any automation is to set it up once and then gain the benefits of not doing something again and again, it's basically investing. Why would you expect to gain much, with little investment?
It may be that the field of private home and appliances is wrong for the concept of automation, because automating basic home is not going to produce much benefits in the end, so you either over-invest in terms of money or time, or get very simple system that isn't an automation in it's best meaning.

@tbowmo I don't know your setup, but optimizing the code that serves frames to the detector can help more then you may think.

@tbowmo I have Nvidia GT1030 running yolo object detection on camera feeds with 7fps on full model and 20-30fps on yolo-tiny. Considering you don't need to process every frame your cameras produce and 1 or even 0.5 fps per camera is practical enough, you can get this thing going on a budget.

@Peter-Loeffler just use HA

Ah, nice, now you can turn on and off wifi sockets and other wifi based iot without even knowing password to the wifi! Great!
https://www.fragattacks.com/

@NeverDie I am just paranoid about relying on a cloud for everything. What if, lets say, my internet connection is cut off, or theirs or they decide to close the API (like google did to nest). I don't like my data taking such a long detour. That's why I installed nextcloud at home when dropbox decided they didn't need to support anything except ext4 on linux

I guess the main reason is that mysensors is very stand-alone framework. And it locked itself in purely hobbyist territory. So when there are vast amount of iot devices from various manufacturers that you can combine with your own diy solutions in zigbee-ikea-hue or esp-tasmota-mqtt ecosystem in mysesnsors you have to make all devices yourself if you want some kind of ecosystem, or rely on HA/openhab/nodered/domoticz with its script system to make something connected. Also strict requirement of arduino framework and outdated hardware as the core of the framework alienates the big chunk of iot developers out there. It feels like people come to mysensors, make relay node, temperature sensor and then go forward for more complex solutions to never come back.

@NeverDie said in Where did everyone go?:

not all that long ago Google bought a thermostat company (Nest)

And pretty much broke it for opensource or third-party integrations.

@NeverDie my setups are quiet simpler. On one location I don't use vlans at all, as I don't use third-party iot devices that I need to actively separate from my network. On the other location I use Mikrotik RB260GS as a managed switch plus I have 3 LAN ports on my pfsense server, where one of them is used for dedicated subnet for outdoor cameras and wifi's.
I would like to have hardware that could take advantage of 10gbe network, but for now I just keep things simple and slow

@NeverDie oh yeah, of course I was looking for the wrong one
I personally have Intel DQ77KB that I use as my home server, but planning to make it a pfsense or opnsense box. It's also LGA1150 and has two ethernets onboard, and I don't think I really need to use a firewall as a switch.

@NeverDie I would like to know where did you find those for 80$ and even with cpu included?! I want one!
Anyway just to throw in this one if you haven't seen it yet, there are pfsense boxes from the netgate themselves https://shop.netgate.com/products/2100-base-pfsense. I know there is ongoing controversy with netgate as an entity, but you may consider this as an option even though I prefer to build things myself.

@mfalkvidd one more question. Did you measure throughput WAN-LAN or LAN-LAN?

@mfalkvidd you installed proxmox on apu4d4? I wonder why opnsense is so much slower, can it be some misconfiguration? Did you try pfsense, I'd like to know if it is any faster.

@NeverDie that's not just a router it's a an x86 motherboard that you can install pfsense on. I think he meant, he wouldn't install pfsense in vm
It is also fairly priced, I have one of their products before, but didn't check them recently, that's a great choice for self-built firewall.

Honeywell SM35.

@NeverDie I might be missing something. What is the problem exactly to get time from the internet? Sure you may not need precise sync, but why bother yourself with GPS clock, or setting clock by hand, if every OS can pull time from public NTP severs?

@NeverDie yep, ZFS is a strange beast for me. I tried to avoid it, because I don't have no hardware nor application to utilize it's potential. But I was also afraid of LVM, and then one time I had to recover proxmox setup that I've messed up when was trying to migrate it to a bigger drive without reinstall. At one moment I thought that I've broken the whole volume group, but somehow I've got it back after few rebuilds from semi-broken backup image
It reminds me the name of this great movie:

@abelson no. You need to have softdevice binary on your PC to flash it to NRF board. Please, read my answer above and try to do, what I suggested.

You need to choose softdevice option if it has been flashed to the board.

@NeverDie said in Advisory: put IOT devices on a separate LAN/vLAN for better security:

Is an NTP truly essential?

I use my pfsense box as NTP relay and pass it's port in firewall rules for unsecure subnet. I don't think it can be as much a problem in home networks.

@NeverDie don't run pfsense or other firewall in proxmox or other virtualization. I tried it and it's a mess. You can buy cheap $100 Dell or HP compact office desktop and add network card and run firewall on that, if you're on a budget. But in any case firewall as the gateway to your network should always be standalone hardware.
I am not saying that your setup in proxmox won't work, just think for when you'll want to restart your proxmox, or do any maintenance on it.

@abelson first you have to flash SD and then chose softdevice in board options and flash your sketch.
It seems that you are lacking softdevice binary. It seems that your version of sandeepmistry's NRF5 core is pretty outdated, you have 0.3 version when surrent version is 0.7. No wonder that links to softdevice binaries are broken in softdevices.txt. Try updating core to the latest version and/or downloading softevice binary from nordic's site yourself.

@electrik yes. You will need an SWD programmer, J-link, ST-link or black magic probe will do. But the thing, you've linked isn't NRF5 device. So if you are asking about exactly that device, then answer is no. Only Nordic bluetooth devices are supported by mysensors. The one you've linked uses TI chip.

@NeverDie I am happy, that you've made a progress! I couldn't help you with that, cause I am using Firefox by default
Strange, I've just tried in Chromium with Lubuntu as guest OS and it works nice...don't have Chrome installed, so can't check the exact issue you have.

@phil2020 look here: https://forum.mysensors.org/post/109039
You may find that useful.

@NeverDie first video in search How To Create Windows 10 Virtual Machine on Proxmox – 17:36
— PhasedLogix IT Services

@NeverDie no, you use Console just below Summary button.
I must add, I never installed windows in proxmox, so I can't say how install process is managed with it, but I think someone on google knows

@NeverDie expand host000 item in the list on the left. Choose storage local at the end of the list, choose ISO Images, hit Upload.

Then press create VM on the top right of the GUI.

@NeverDie seems to me that 96GB is plenty of space for ISO's

@NeverDie this is completely doable within proxmox installation. Show me please the return of lvdisplay.
Or if you already have set up your system, then let it be

@NeverDie that's strange. What's the size of your disk? Also you can see LVM structure with lvdisplay command. As I've mentioned, you also can manage sizes of said LV's in the console.

So to be precise, Proxmox installer creates LMV VG (volume group) called pve, in which it creates LV(logic volume) root, swap and andother volume, which in fact is a pool for another thin volumes that will be created for each VM and container, called data. So ISO's, backups and other stuff related to proxmox itself will be located at root volume.

@NeverDie to be honest, I don't rememver It was so long ago, I was just updating the system from then. But I guess there might be an option in the installer... I will try it in vm, you made me curious

UPDATE: I've just ran the install and it plain and simple, no extra options. It automatically partitioned the disk. The only drawback is that you don't have ability to fine tune the sizes of partitions, but that can be done later with some LVM magic

@Puneit-Thukral you can start looking from here https://forum.mysensors.org/post/92044

@NeverDie said in Best PC platform for running Esxi/Docker at home?:

It seems that a minimum of 3 disks is required for running ProxMox: one to boot from, one for ISO's, and one for VM's. I'm surprised it's that literal and not able to partition one disk into 3 equivalent disks. It advises not to use a USB flash for the boot disk.

Not true. I have 1 SSD running proxmox. And two more disks passed trough to vm's for storage, but the proxmox part is entirely on the small SSD. It is just partitioned using LVM.

Mentioned hardware bugs are easily omitted by using custom sleep function.

Look at this thread, if you haven't already: https://forums.serverbuilds.net/t/guide-nas-killer-4-0-fast-quiet-power-efficient-and-flexible-starting-at-125/

@Ikes-72000 I guess I just love open source software that doesn't rely on some vendor and it's good will to give you access to use it or find solution to your problem.

+1 for proxmox. Didn't have good experience with esxi. Proxmox is opensource, free and debian-based. Using it on HP microserver gen 8.
As for CPU choice I don't see how there would be any issue with Ryzen. All you need from processor is hardware virtualization, and I think all except the lowest level ones have it nowadays.

@NeverDie so is it directly compatible with nordic's protocol? Can it be used as drop-in replacement for nrf24?

@NeverDie stencil would help, for sure. But I am talking bare minimum. You tin the pads a little, so they are like bumps, then apply gel flux, put the IC aligned to the pins and reflow it with hot-air gun. That may be not the best practice, but it works, if you need to solder few IC's.

@NeverDie I would say that many more chips (such as nrf24, nrf52832 and others in QFN package) become easily hand-solderable if you buy 20-30$ hot-air gun.

@kalina I see. I have the same STM32 chip and was going to use it in one of my next projects, so I asked to get some inspiration

@kalina looking great! Is it opensource?

@acb I have a couple of Ebyte's E73 modules. I also have BMP, so it shouldn't be a problem.
If you could share your bootloader for 52840 it would be a great start for my tinkering.

@acb said in nRF5 action!:

I couldn't get Nordic's default Dongle bootloader to play nicely with MySensors (at the time).

So have you gotten any success eventually?
Once again, thank you for such extensive information I hope others will appreciate it too.

@acb thank you for such complete answer!
One more question for now, is this standard, or modified bootloader?
And how many additional steps do I need to take to make this work on nrf52840?

@skywatch better safe than sorry
I can imagine this question being ask completely seriously.

Well, theoretically speaking, you need to know resistance of the water tank, where leakage is occurring. Then you could measure voltage drop across it an divide it by the resistance of the water tank. Another method would be using a shunt between leaking conductor and the water, and measure voltage across it, respectively.

REALISTICALLY, IF YOU HAVE MAINS VOLTAGE LEAKING INTO WATER, YOU DON'T TRY TO MEASURE IT, YOU TURN OFF POWER AND CALL AN ELECTRICIAN.

If it's not mains voltage, well, you can try things.

@acb said in nRF5 action!:

I can do a diff later this evening if you're interested...?

Yes please, I think I'm not the only one who will appreciate your code
I have a bunch of 51822's but wanted to get into 52840. I have paused my research of NRF5 for some time, while I am finishing my other work, but I would like to have more complete experience with NRF5 than what is now provided by mysensors.
I guess FreeRTOS is a way to go, when you have far mo complex MCU then atmega, and far more capable.
I hope that mysensors core team will consider moving forward to more complex, but more powerful architecture.

@acb so you just compile mysensors code with sofdevice chosen in options, and everything works? That's great news!
Do you mean you use FreeRTOS with mysensors also? So I guess you are using adafruit's bootloader then?

I use these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32855681042.html Well, they work, but profile is not the best for dupont (2.5mm). But for their price it's ok.

I wanted to write that Softdevice and ESB are not compatible for use at the same time, but then decided to fact check myself. Seems like now you can use Softdevice and ESB simultaneously. You can either disable softdevice in program, or use Timeslot API to manage access to radio of different protocols.
https://infocenter.nordicsemi.com/index.jsp?topic=%2Fsds_s140%2FSDS%2Fs1xx%2Fconcurrent_multiprotocol_tsl_api%2Ftsl_usage_examples.html&cp=4_5_3_0_8_2
https://devzone.nordicsemi.com/f/nordic-q-a/55847/priority-level-overlap-between-softdevice-and-esb
https://jimmywongiot.com/2020/06/22/radio-timeslot-api-for-the-multiple-protocols/
If this is doable I can't think of a reason, why mysensors shouldn't use softdevice.