Topics created by Moshe Livne

@AWI Darn you are right!!!!! Thanks! Have been dealing with rpi and upwards lately so assumed it has some kind of internal clock. Thanks again!

Yes, the gateway send this information to the controller.

@Yveaux no no no.... I didn't explain myself well I guess. The mysensors node "press" buttons on a universal remote control, see http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1662/air-conditioning-hvac-control-work-in-progress The universal remote is powered from the arduino as well. As long as it is powered it remembers the settings for the aircon. once I power down the node the remote powers down as well and has to scan to find the right settings.

Nice hack. Incredible to get a LCD remote for $3 .

Good idea. Append IR control

@Andreas-Maurer In retrospect it is very obvious....

@Moshe-Livne said: In what way is it better? The datasheet states that to wake an ATMega from sleep from a PIN0/1 interrupt it should be configured as LEVEL interrupt, not CHANGE (second parameter to gw.sleep() ) It is likely to work when configured for CHANGE, but under certain conditions the interrupt may not be detected correctly by the ATMega.

@Ivan-Z Thanks. I have seen this in another thread. Decided against it for several reasons. This sensor should be asleep 99.9999% of the time. According to the legends this battery should power my sensor for years.

My setup doesn't work. When i activate the relay directly it works. Pin 3 to ground does nothing. I used the sketch from Moshe. What can i do next?

@JahFyahh it was mostly trial and error. I was lucky and my initial setup was good but these sensors have very sensitive adjustment (all cheap sensors do, i think) and sometimes a fraction of a turn is enough to change things. I think I wrote a simple "read in a loop" sketch and shaked it a bit (like a washing machine, small shakes) to see if i have a read. Hope that helps. I think top of the machine vibrates a bit more than back. if you put on the back, maybe try to mount it high as the upper part moves more than the lower part.

@tbowmo nope, still no go. strangely, when i disconnect the arduino from the computer (so it is not powered), it creates a short after a few seconds and the bell starts ringing continuously.

@Moshe-Livne there already is a 4u7 capacitor for the radio, on the sensebender. in theory, it could be used with cr2032 battery, but I doubt that it would last long..

@blacey oh i see. My pro mini has vin written on the raw pin so i mixed it up. Thanks!

Just to re-iterate my original question - does any of the forum heroes knows if the same nrf chip can be used for rfid detection of commercial active tags and for mysensors?

@AWI totally understandable! I am a bit relived to hear that actually. I own a reasonable (I think) multimeter - not the cheapest from aliexpress... it is reasonably ok but everyone is so hushhush about the accuracy. I even ended up asking some multimeters companies what is the *&%&% accuracy and stop giving me all sorts of equations to solve!!! It reminds me of my other hobby, woodworking. You can do almost anything to a really good degree of finish with couple of hundreds $ of equipment BUT (and its a big capital BUT): You need to know what you are doing You need to carefully select this equipment and usually you gain the insight only after spending couple of K$ on useless hyped things. You need to have the confidence required it does take more time and can end up less accurate. Thanks for this... now I can use my multimeter with more confidence

@madmax yes, so go to mutlti relay, add your libraries for simple timer and DHT. Thge relay code is non-blocking so you should be able to fold it in quite nicely.

Thanks! that did the trick!!

@Andreas-Maurer Forgot about wireshark! thanks, thats what i needed

@Sparkman ended up ordering http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Passive-Bistable-Latching-DPDT-8-Amp-Power-Relay-Module-5V-Version-RT424F05/2003476647.html as form factor is not really an issue where these relays will be but convenience is. I think it includes the diodes but not the transistor. Thanks!!!!

@Moshe-Livne seems like a faulty breadboard.... ran out of dupont cables so used this cheap bbreadboard. will try again when I can get some more dupont cables...

@hek , after closing everything and reopening it works... go figure

@hek yep - just downloaded it a few weeks ago.... oh well, i can get along with codebender.

@Sparkman it say 3144 415 so its the a3144 i think. found a you tube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZkX1-gJYjQ (i think the guy there misses the part that it gives 2.5v and goes up or down according to the polarity but its good enough for me...) will give it a try later and see how sensitive it is

@Mickey Thanks. will give it a try!

@Cory said: I usually search for "ac usb" on ebay and get good results. So far i have been happy to find chargers like these. They support up to 240V and are small enough to fit into electrical boxes with the case on. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-US-Plug-USB-AC-Wall-Charger-Adapter-For-Samsung-iPad-iPhon-White-f20-/281681762352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41958a9830 I typically get them for ~$0.70 each but have also won some bids for less. those modules not so safe to be inside a 220v box without ventilation they can burst in flames (its rare but imagine it happen once in 220v box and the all house could burn...) I open one once to see how can they fit in so small box and they just cut the PCB on half and connect one half to another with ribbon cable and fold the 2 pieces on on another with a thin foam to protect the capacitors...

@Chester That is actually a great idea.... From what I read elsewhere it seems that the cheap hall sensors are not that sensitive so your idea should be the bestest... Thanks!!!