Posts made by Sparkman

@jimbolaya Sorry, link is now fixed.

@jimbolaya Something like this should work: http://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=IPP055N03LGXKSA1-ND.

@dbemowsk Thanks for posting. Mine are the 8 color variety which I think they likely accomplish by mixing 3 colors. I'll have to dig up the non-working one and take it apart to take a look.

Cheers
Al

@dbemowsk Yes, I do have the power supplies. They are 7V AC rated for 5A:

I've never seen 7V power supplies before, so probably not easy to find. Is there a 5V regulator on the board?

Cheers
Al

I've never been able to find any schematics for them. I have one that doesn't work as well, but have not taken it apart yet.

Looks like a betabrite sign. I use some with HomeSeer to display weather info, sports scores, etc.

@Cliff-Karlsson That should work, but I would try using tape first so that it is easy to readjust. Once you have it adjusted the way you want, then replace the tape with paint.

The RFXCom receivers also support the Maverick ET732 and ET733 BBQ Thermometers and the Oregon Scientific AW129 and AW131 thermometers. I currently use the AW129 but am also interested in a dual probe thermometer that can control a fan.

Cheers
Al

Here's one on AliExpress that can do 200 l/m: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/YF-DN50-2-inch-Large-diameter-turbine-flow-meter-water-flow-sensor-industrial-flow-meter-Available/32297810863.html?spm=2114.40010208.4.71.i72mzF. Not sure if I would trust it though.

@ericvdb

They are available, but not cheap. Here are some examples for the North American market: http://www.jerman.com/dljcmeters.html.

Cheers
Al

@NeverDie No, as we've had very little lightning since I started using it.

@parachutesj said:

@doug I do have the same ones bought at alice from the shop link. I also have issues and basically not functioning. I will try your "fix" and see how it goes. Did you do some shielding?

Cheers,
SJ

FWIW, I use these exact ones and I get very good range with them, without additional shielding.

Cheers
Al

@NeverDie All these breakout boards are based on this chip: http://ams.com/eng/Products/Wireless-Connectivity/Wireless-Sensor-Connectivity/AS3935. They use a proprietary method to figure out distance and is not based on sound.

Cheers
Al

@chuckconnors said:

Right, it's the cost that gets me. $40 x 3 = a whole lot of Arduinos and parts

That is true, but it does make for a clean install and is also UL approved.

Cheers
Al

@chuckconnors An Aeotec ZWavevMicro Switch should work as it can sense 120v from the motion sensor to control the relay. I was looking to do that myself. There are LED motion detector lights that likely have DC in them already, but it looks like they are quite a bit more expensive.

Cheers
Al

@chuckconnors This may give you some info: https://www.handymanhowto.com/how-to-wire-a-motion-activated-floodlight-with-an-insteon-in-linelinc-relay/

Cheers
Al

@alexsh1 It looks to be a different breakout board, but for the same chip. So I would expect them to work basically the same.

Cheers
Al

@AWI said:

My experiences with @ceech service are very positive.

Mine have been as well.

Cheers
Al

@alexsh1 @scalz

I'm running my sketch with I2C now, rather than SPI. I found the sensor would lock up occassionally, so recently converted it and am still testing it. I have mine running at 5v now as well instead of 3.3v, but it works fine with either.

I'll post an updated sketch (and wiring diagram) soon. I based both the spi and i2c sketches on the examples found here: http://playingwithfusion.com/productview.php?pdid=22&catid=1001.

Cheers
Al

@Tore-André-Rosander Yes, the sensor can detect the distance. See the details of the sensor here: http://playingwithfusion.com/productview.php?pdid=22&catid=1001. Although I'm starting to believe that it's actually a lightning repeller rather than a lightning sensor as we've had very little lightning in our area after I installed it

Cheers
Al

@petewill I've used these to convert from 24VAC to 5VDC: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321472165477. They are a bit more expensive, but allow for a large range of AC/DC input to 5VDC. There's also a similar one for 12VDC.

Cheers
Al

@Unci said:

void setup()  
{ 
  gw.begin();
  dht.setup(HUMIDITY_SENSOR_DIGITAL_PIN); 

  // Send the Sketch Version Information to the Gateway
  gw.sendSketchInfo("Humidity & MQ315", "1.0");

  // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices)
  gw.present(CHILD_ID_HUM, S_HUM);
  gw.present(CHILD_ID_TEMP, S_TEMP);
  
  metric = gw.getConfig().isMetric;

  // Register all sensors to gateway (they will be created as child devices)
  gw.present(CHILD_ID_AIQ, S_AIR_QUALITY); 
}

As a start, you should simplify your setup routine and only have one gw.begin. Try compiling it like that and see what you get for any remaining errors.

Cheers
Al

@NeverDie said:

@Sparkman
Thanks! Makes sense. That clears up what you all are referring to.

Now you have me wondering: is the JModule experiencing a problem in this regard?

It will definitely have reduced range in that direction, but any range issues can likely be minimized by orienting it differently. Would be interesting to compare the actual range reduction of it compared to the Sensebender.

@NeverDie said:

Not sure what you mean. Ssensebender seems to get by that way, doesn't it?

The sensebender PCB is blank in the area below where the antenna is.

https://www.openhardware.io/uploads/568d7feb0779a3581858ac2a/394/micro_radio.png

@barduino said:

@AWI

I dont know where you got the idea but is very accurate so to speak.

You can actually find a Weather Galo de Barcelos, its has some paint that changes color based on humidity.

Cool idea, cheers

Here's one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/391450057841

Cheers
Al

@signal15 How about a pressure sensor on both sides of the filter? I would expect a change in pressure difference if things are not normal. Something like http://www.ebay.com/itm/251918804485.

Cheers
Al

@jacek As I mentioned, you call gw.send(dimmerMsg.set(0), true); again in the incomingMessage routine. By doing that, you are asking Domoticz to send another off command. Instead you should have a command there to actually set the dim level on the pins to the value that you want. I'm not too familiar with this code, but looking at it, you should just save the new state there and then continue with the routine, rather than calling return;

Cheers
Al

@jacek It looks like you have an endless loop to me,
To initiate turning off the light due to a high ambient level, you call gw.send(dimmerMsg.set(0), true); which will instruct domoticz to send a command back which should be acted upon in your incomingMessage routine. In that routine, if the ambient light level is high, you send the same command back to domoticz: gw.send(dimmerMsg.set(0), true);. It's not clear to me what the rest of the functions after that do but they won't be executed due to your return command. What does the serial output show when high ambient light triggers this?

@jacek In your icomingMessage routine, it looks you have no code to turn the light off, although I might be misinterpreting it.

Cheers
Al

@miro It's ok from a startup perspective which means you have programmed and wired it correctly. It could still have power issues when it is transmitting.

Cheers
Al

st=fail typically means that the sensor is having trouble communicating to the gateway due to a power issue on the sensor. Search the forum for common resolutions to this and if those don't resolve it, post more details on your hardware setup.

Cheers
Al

PS Have you checked http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/666/debug-faq-and-how-ask-for-help

If you see the traffic on your gateway requesting the id, then the Vera is not providing the id for some reason, or it is supplying the id, but the sensor is not receiving the response.

You can move D9 for the NRF radio to a different pin. Not sure which version of MySensors you are using, but check the relevant documentation on how to do so.

Cheers
Al

@Lee-Groom Sorry, I should have read better

I had been looking at running a MQTT gateway and was deciding whether to run one on a Pi or a Yun. I then saw your post and in my mind I saw "server" instead of gateway...

Technically is should be possible to run the gateway on a Yun, but I don't think anyone's tried or ported it yet, so you will likely be treading on new ground.

Cheers
Al

Setting up an MQTT Server on the YUN – 25:30
— theBreadboard

Hi Mark,

The only example I can think of is @BulldogLowell's sprinkler controller. It queries for run-times from the controller. I think that is supported on the Vera, and not sure if Domoticz supports the same feature.

Cheers
Al

Hi Mark,

Why not have the sensor on the mower wake up periodically (eg every 30 seconds, or once per minute, etc.) and have it ask for an update? If it does not get a response, then leave it in its current state. That should accommodate both issues.

Cheers
Al

Looks like an interesting module. Since these are advertised as working in the 5.8 GHz band, it would be interesting to see exactly where in the band they are and if they cause interference for WiFi channels.

Cheers
Al

@sundberg84 I'm not sure if any of the current LG TV's have an RS232 port anymore. Most new ones (at least the "smart" ones) are now running WebOS and can in theory be controlled through it over IP. I have two LG TV's, one is a 2010 and it has a serial port, but my 2012 Smart TV does not.

Cheers
Al

HomeSeer is fully functional without internet/cloud access. They do offer some cloud integration, but you have control over whether that is enabled and it works fine without it.

Cheers
Al

@drock1985 Here's one method: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11091.

Cheers
Al

Transformers typically have an in-rush current as well, so a fast-blow fuse could pop because of this if it's not sized for that.

Cheers
Al

@mickaelh51 Sensors are not registered on the gateway. The controller is responsible for this. Which controller are you using?

Cheers
Al

@fifipil909 How about these: https://www.okwenclosures.com/en/Plastic-enclosures/Plug-Cases.htm

Cheers
Al

@PandaNL How do you have your module hooked up to the wiring?

Cheers
Al

@PandaNL I would hook the module to a volt meter first to see if it picks up the ringing signal. Once you have that working, any sketch that measures an analog signal can be readily modified for this purpose.

Cheers
Al

@PandaNL It might work. Won't hurt to try it.

Cheers
Al

@Dave-Dan @petewill I use LMS as well, but mainly with the "official" hardware players. Still a large used market for those (search ebay for squeezebox). I have first gen Slim Devices players all the way to the latest ones released by Logitech. There's a great plugin for HomeSeer as well. We use them for automated alarm clocks (Squeezebox Radio's mainly), voice announcements, status displays and music of course :D.

Cheers
Al

@PandaNL said:

Used the multimeter and it gives a reading of 20v dc. when the button for the door is pushed two metal parts touch each other and will send a signal to open the door.

Soldered 2 wires to those connections and it seems to work with the relay, the only thing I need to figure out now is how to get a signal when someone rings.

Good news. For the ring, it's likely a 60-90v ac signal, so use the multimeter to confirm that. There are pre-built ring detectors available, one example is made by Velleman, or you can build your own. Google "telephone ring detector circuit" and you should be able to find examples.

Cheers
Al

@PandaNL It's unlikely that a single wire is used for the relay. Typically these systems work by superimposing different signals on the same two wires. The voice will be on that pair and so will the control signal to open the door. The control signal for the relay could be a dc voltage of a certain level or an ac signal at a specific frequency. There's equipment at the head end that will take this signal and operate the relay. It's unlikely that you are directly controlling the relay that opens the door. Hook up a multimeter across the pair and measure ac voltage and then dc voltage while you are making a voice call and opening the door. Start at 50v or so and work your way down to lower levels if you don't pick anything up.

Cheers
Al

@dakipro In North America, the regulations can also be state/province and city specific as to what work the home owner can do themselves on the electrical system. From a certification perspective, typically anything over 50 volts must use UL or CSA approved equipment according to the electrical codes. This means all the components must be approved and also the final assembly. Modifications to approved equipment will void the approval and it would need to be reapproved with those modifications.

Insurance Companies are always looking for reasons to not pay out claims, so if a fire investigation makes it obvious that something the home-owner did caused the fire, there's a good chance you'll end up with nothing. For those reasons, I'm not building any MySensor devices that modify 120/240 systems. I use approved zwave equipment to control lights/fans/appliances/etc. Yes, it's more expensive to purchase (and not as much fun), but the risks are not worth it IMHO.

Cheers
Al

@Cliff-Karlsson In the long range variants, the LNA is for the receive side (does a better job amplifying the received signal) and the PA is to produce higher power output on the transmit side. I use a module with a LNA/PA for my gateway and also for nodes that are far away or behind a few walls.

Cheers
Al

@alexsh1 Good to hear you are making progress. With the nano, was it powered by 3.3v or 5v? From what I understand, the interrupt pins on the Nano and SenseBender should work the same, but maybe @tbowmo can confirm.

Cheers
Al

@youngst123 No problem. Let us know how you make out.

Cheers
Al

@youngst123 The easiest is the serial gateway sketch: http://www.mysensors.org/build/serial_gateway#upload-the-serialusb-gateway-sketch. For an easy controller to test things with, try MysController: http://www.mysensors.org/controller/myscontroller. You will need a Windows PC for it.

Cheers
Al

@youngst123 You don't need to purchase one as there are a number of free ones available, but all need some type of hardware to run on. The gateway is simply another Arduino with NRF radio and a sketch specific for it.

Cheers
Al

@youngst123 MySensors is designed to work with a gateway and central controller. I believe it's possible for direct sensor node to sensor node communications, but does not work that way by default.

http://www.mysensors.org/build/select_gateway
http://www.mysensors.org/controller/

Cheers
Al

@xypzo In your incoming message function, you need to check the message to see which relay it is for (message.sensor). You're not checking for that and you always switch both relays by issuing these two commands in a row:

digitalWrite(RELAY1_PIN, state?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF);
digitalWrite(RELAY2_PIN, state?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF);

You need something like:

if (message.sensor == CHILD_ID_R) {
     digitalWrite(RELAY1_PIN, state?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF);
     gw.saveState(CHILD_ID_R, state);
}
if (message.sensor == CHILD_ID_R2) {
     digitalWrite(RELAY2_PIN, state?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF);
     gw.saveState(CHILD_ID_R2, state);
}

Cheers
Al

@niccodemi Looks like you are using 1 as the child id for both. It probably easiest to change the child id of the pulse sensor to 10 or something like that in case you add more relays in the future.

Cheers
Al

@alexsh1 The 3.1v might be a problem. I would power from 3.3v and see if the green led starts blinking. Doesn't sound like you need any pullup/down resistors.

Cheers
Al

@alexsh1 Not sure if you need an extra resistor. I would expect there is some internal circuitry in the sensor already. Have you looked at the schematics of the emonPi, etc. on the OpenEnergyMonitor website to see if they have any additional components on their input for the sensor? I would expect the led to flash if you have Vcc and Gnd connected so perhaps something else is wrong. Are you powering with 3.3v or 5v?

Cheers
Al

@mvader Glad to hear you got it resolved.

Cheers
Al

@alexsh1 I would measure the output of the sensor to ensure it goes high when it detects a pulse and put some println's in the code to see if the interrupt gets triggered at all.

Cheers
Al

How do you have it hooked up and post your sketch that you are using to test it.

Cheers
Al

@mvader Might be a 3.3v regulator that's not as good. Do you know what kind of regulator is on the board. Should be on the back side. Have you measured the 3.3v pin to check the voltage?

Cheers
Al

@insomnia Take a look at this article as it describes how to use one interrupt pin for multiple swirches: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11091.

Cheers
Al

@csa02221862 The easiest may be to use something like this and connect to an Arduino: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321816823725 and use the remote to program your HomeLink buttons. Not sure how secure it would be though.

Cheers
Al

@csa02221862 My understanding is that HomeLink buttons can be programmed to learn devices in a frequency range of about 300-433 MHz so there are a few options. I know some people that have programmed the buttons with an X-10 remote and use an X-10 receiver. There's also (a now discontinued) Wayne Dalton HomeLink to z-wave bridge. You can find them on eBay. You should be able to use some 433MHz remotes to program it as well which you could use with a 433MHz MySensored receiver.

Cheers
Al

@xefil Hi Simon, I would make sure that you have one common ground. You could try a larger capacitor as well. Also, maybe post which specific relay board you are using. Which power supply is connected to the Raw and Gnd pins on the Arduino?

Cheers
Al

Hi Simon, are all the grounds connected together, or are the power supplies all completely separate? I would make sure you have a common ground? Also, do you have a capacitor on the radio power pins?

Cheers
Al

@Cliff-Karlsson Here's a good example as to how to use them: http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/node/58. You'd have to combine their sketch with a MS sketch, but that shouldn't be too difficult. Note that a clamp on current transformer can produce high voltages without a burden resistor and should never be used without being connected. See the Safety section on this page for more info: http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/buildingblocks/ct-sensors-introduction.

Cheers
Al

@drock1985 I've bought and used these from eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251493157362.

Cheers
Al

@NotYetRated Here's a thread with some great options: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1789/external-connector-options.

Cheers
Al

@mfalkvidd Yes, others are seeing it as well: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2087/forum-banner-on-screen.

Cheers
Al

@cygnus said:

My only problem right now is that I'm unable to find a good source for 0.3A slow blow fuses with axial leads on eBay.

Looks like the .4A ones are in stock. I would just go with those.

Cheers
Al

@johntech Glad to hear.

Cheers
Al

I'm using the latest version of Chrome from a few different systems and always get the banner when first connecting to the forum. Very annoying. This has been happening since the latest forum updates.

Cheers
al

@johntech Hi John, I would reinstall the 1.5 libraries as something must have gotten missed. The digitalio.h library is included by default so if you had to manually add it, other libraries are likely missing as well. Once the libraries are reinstalled and you've restarted the IDE, and you still get that message then it would indicate a power or wiring issue. If it works you would get a message indicating the gateway successfully started.

Cheers
Al

@shabba said:

@Sparkman Have you used them? Wonder what it involves. Soldering the RFM69 to the adaptor and plugging in the adaptor?

I have ordered them, but I have not used them. It is just the circuit board, so you will need to add headers and solder the rfm module to it.

Cheers
Al

A lot of the clones use a ch340g usb interface chip. Have you downloaded drivers for it: http://sparks.gogo.co.nz/ch340.html.

Cheers
Al

@GertSanders There are these: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/TKNcHTRl

Cheers
Al

@LastSamurai I would add a small delay between sending using the gw.wait method and see if that improves the reliability of the transmissions.

Cheers
Al

@diggs Arduino's have built in watch-dog timers which you can activate for your sensor. Just google "Arduino watchdog timer" and you'll see lots of examples. If that won't work for you, you can also build a hardware watchdog timer using a 555 chip, a diode, and a few resistors/capacitors. I've built one one a breadboard and it works great. Here's an example of one of those: http://www.playwitharduino.com/?p=291

Cheers
Al

@punter9 Given it's a 5 volt module, powering it with 9V is not a good idea. The specs on the Songle relay indicate that it draws about 90mA. The official Nano has a 500mA 5V regulator so if you don't have too much else connected, that should be fine. If you are using a Nano clone, then take a look at the specs for the regulator it uses.

Cheers
Al

@punter9 Can you post a link to the relay module that you are using?

Cheers
Al

@cdr IDs are assigned the first time the node starts up and then stored in the Arduino EEPROM. To get a new ID, you would have to clear (that portion of) the EEPROM, or you can upload a copy of the sketch with the ID hard-coded.

Cheers
Al

@GertSanders @LastSamurai Have you seen this thread: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1816/project-boxes-for-mysensor-s-nodes-and-gateway. Might be better to add to it rather than starting a new one.

Cheers
Al

@petewill said:

@MartinP Based on my limited knowledge, yes, that should work. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm?

I would personally go with a higher voltage rating. Something like 15-20% higher than your normal voltage otherwise you may get regular nuisance trips. So for a 240 VAC system, I would use something close to 290V.

Cheers
Al

@m26872 I've seen the same with real ones. Two sitting right next to each other and their temperature readings are off by over 1°C.

Cheers
Al

@Starjade Here's a good write-up as to what MySensors is about: http://www.mysensors.org/about/components. The intent of MySensors is for a Home Automation system (the controller) to talk to remote sensors through a gateway using NRF24L01+ radio modules, although other radio types are now supported as well.

Cheers
Al

@Starjade Are you planning on using this with MySensors? If so, you are missing the NRF radio module.

Other things you'll need are resistors for the LEDs and a motion sensor. A capacitor may be required on the NRF radio. I would order some just in case. I would get a larger battery holder, perhaps a 6 battery one which would then supply 9V to the Uno, although if you can find a way to power it with a wall wart, that may be better. I did not see the current draw for the WTV module so you'll have to confirm that the 3.3V regulator on-board the UNO can supply both it and the NRF radio.

Cheers
Al

@ubotdude @LastSamurai Have you seen this thread: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1668/sending-image-data-over-the-mysensors-network

Cheers
Al

@msebbe said:

Also, could I wire so both resistors meet at A0?

Yes, that is fine.

Cheers
Al

@andrezibaia You're welcome and glad to hear you got it resolved.

Cheers
Al

@andrezibaia said:

Is it perhaps a problem with the radio? It only sends and does not receive?

It's possible, but none of the logs indicate a communications issue. Maybe @blacey who wrote the sketch or @hek have some other ideas.

Cheers
Al

@andrezibaia said:

13/09/2015 19:53:56 TX 55;0;1;0;3;50
13/09/2015 19:54:16 TX 55;0;1;0;2;50
13/09/2015 19:55:02 TX 55;0;1;0;2;50

The last 3 lines show you sending 50 to the dimmer device first (3) and then twice to the light device (2). The light device should only respond to a 0 or a 1. Have you tried sending that?

Cheers
Al

@andrezibaia Looks correct. Anything in the serial monitor of the dimmer? Try the light subtype as well and send a 0 or a 1. What does the MYSController log show when you do this?

Cheers
Al

@andrezibaia Should be able to send a message to the node using the "Send Message" portion on the bottom of the screen.

Cheers
Al

@andrezibaia To rule out an issue with Domoticz, do you have the ability to hookup the gateway to MYSController? Might be worth a try to see what happens with it.

Cheers
Al